Dessert Strikes a Snowy Chord




There is a white-out outside of my windows.  The predicted winter storm has come raging onto the eastern seaboard.  Streets appear deserted and darkened although it is early afternoon. The darkened sky is filled with bolts of lightening and the thunder which immediately follows suggests that judgement day has come to rest upon the city. There is a sense of unease which has been leashed upon us. The lightening has intensified sending forty flavors of fear to all within its hearing. Lights are flickering, sirens are screaming and the holiday spirit appears to be muffled by these unearthly emanations.  When I was younger, a snow storm meant no school!  It would elicit cries of relief from the children as well as their teachers.  Those days I would joyously prepare myself for making angels and snowmen on our backyard snow shrouded lawn. Mitten strings wound through sleeves and scarves drawn tight, it was a time to build forts and suck icicles, drink steaming hot instant hot coca with tiny marshmellows and in general have a carefree wondrous time.  After many hours, my clothing covered with wet clumps of snow and my forehead stung with cold sweat, I would happily return to my family's hearth.  
Those past wintry days seemed to bring forth a rush of cooking within our home.  Both my mother and grandmother would be at the stove, big spoons in hand, concocting soups, friccasses, and pasta sauces to not only sate their children's appetites but to keep their hands and minds occupied. With Grandpa in the dark basement making garlic sour pickles and smoking herrings even the usually dark and forbidding canning room became alive.  Winter, I later came to understand, was not the same for all of us. 
Today there is an unease among us due to the unnatural phenomenon that has occurred.  A state of emergency has just been declared within the city: cars are trapped, tree limbs appear bound in a heavy eerie panoply and the usual soundings of footsteps has vanished.  Daylight has disappeared replaced with a heavy veil of mystery. Therapy seems to be the best course of action to allay my sense of worry.  It is to the kitchen I now must urgently hasten knowing that there may be solace in physical action.  What to cook, what to prepare for the forth coming meal in order to lighten my spirit. Why not an air of gaiety to replace this doom and sense of foreboding? I would like to be on a beach with a blue sky overhead and waves tumbling gently near my toes.  Instead, as an alternative, I will make a mustardy garlic infused bread crumb mixture to encase a pork loin.  When roasted on a bed of leeks this should indeed allay the coldness which lies within these apartment walls. With this, a lovely egg and saffron scented potato salad to remind me of past July evenings .  Topping it off will be a chunky grown-up version of Granny Smith applesauce cooked down with brown sugar and white wine, finally finished off with calvados and a hint of vanilla. Dessert is a necessity this night . Something fruity and custardy with a sweetness which will linger on my lips. Yes, this menu might do very well in a pinch.  So I serve you up the finale to this forthcoming evening meal, a raspberry custard crumb cake to soothe the soul and perhaps to even take us back in time to our own carefree youth. Dessert forks ready!  Action, and it is a take!  

Raspberry Custard Crumb Cake

2 Cups Flour
1 Cup Sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. baking powder
1 stick unsalted fresh butter

Combine the flour, sugar and butter with your fingers until it resembles coarse meal. Place this mixture, patting it down into an un-greased 10 inch pie plate. Make sure you have patted the sides of your pie plate as well. Fill with fresh raspberries, usually 1 pint is plenty. If you have blueberries on hand, use half blueberries and half raspberries for an incredible burst of flavor. Arrange these over the crust and sprinkle this with 1/4 cup sugar and cinnamon to your taste. Add a pinch of salt. Bake in a pre heated 400 degree oven on a baking sheet for 15 minutes.*

Meanwhile, beat two large egg yolks with one cup heavy cream. Pour this mixture over the top of the fruits and now bake for an additional 25 minutes, or until your custard has set. The bottom may harden, so you may wish to cut it after it has cooled down. Refrigerate and serve to oohs and aahs.

* If these fruits are unavailable or too costly a good can of Alberta Peach Halves is available at your grocery store. Make sure that you drain the peaches and set the free stone halves bottom side up. This also makes for mighty fine eating.

Posted: Thu - December 15, 2005 at 10:40 AM          

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