Woke up late (8:00 a.m.) and had breakfast and hot drinks. Later Brennan set up a rope and we practiced using our ascenders, which is a good idea since most of us have never used them before. We also practiced using "running" protection with pickets. This involves knowing how to clip off the rope below a picket and then clipping back on above it so you can keep moving.

I went over to the NPS tents to see the doctor and ask him about the snow blindness problems I have had. He asked me a few questions, looked at my eyes and did not see an infection. He thought it would be OK to continue. The ranger present said a lot of people this year had complained about Julbo brand glacier glasses, which is what I was using also.

The plan for tomorrow is to ascend the headwall up to the bergshrund and then ascend the fixed lines to 16,200' and leave a cache, then return to camp.

I can't get over how grungy I am. I don't know if my fingers and hands will ever be clean again. When I was in Talkeetna before the climb, there were a couple of businesses that advertised "showers and laundromat." I thought that was pretty funny at the time, but now I don't think so. They may get my business upon our return.

Got to meet AAI "superguide" Vern Tejas today. He guides a lot on Denali and leads AAI's yearly Everest expedition as well. Nigel got to meet and talk with him, which is good because Nigel has already paid a steep deposit to be on next year's Everest climb.

Both of the guides tell us this evening that the weather here at camp IV is unusually warm, and higher up as well. The weather forecast is very vague as well but seems to call for clouds and 30 mph winds up high for the next couple of days.

The plan for tomorrow is to get up at 6:00 and make a carry up the fixed lines to leave a cache at 16,200'.

Brennan produced a radio this evening and we got to listen to a rock and roll station out of Anchorage.

Click on a picture to see it full size.

	Nigel shoveling snow off the tent.
	The NPS complex at camp IV. There are solar panels, all sorts of radio antennas, a big work tent with medical supplies and radios etc. This stuff is brought in by helicopter at the beginning of the season.
	The weather report, brought to you by the National Park Service.
	Nigel relaxing in the tent. Our -40 degree sleeping bags take up most of the space.
	Enjoying the weather at 14,280'. Time to shovel again. (photo by Nigel Clark)