TIP OF THE WEEK #38 Ski Jump Nails
By Vicki Peters 

Ski jump nails are the worst to apply artificial nails too, they may look good once you do them but they are constant maintenance during fills and may require more full sets that the average client. When sculpting ski jump nails the little corners of the free edge tend to pop out of the top edge of the sculpts on the sides and the tips you apply tend to pop off easier than the normal nail ­ so what do you do?

First I would abandon all ideas of sculpting. It is a challenge that won't work in most cases. Now I know you gals who do nothing but sculpt are probably disagreeing with me, but because you sculpt all the time it may be easier for you. That is not always the case ­ so this is what I suggest:

1. File the entire free edge off , totally.

2. Prep the nails.

3. Size out the tips. Use tips that have nice rounded wells to them. Don't use the shorter ones.

4. Prime the nails and let the nails dry to a chalky white look.

5. One nail at a time, apply a small ball of clear or pink acrylic (whatever you prefer) to the back side of the well area of the tip and spread the ball of acrylic over the entire well. Apply to the nail and hold in place until it is secure. Holding the tip in place takes a minute or two and is time consuming but the results are worth it. Be sure to apply enough acrylic to fill in the well area completely and hold the tip so when you cut and shape the tip later it will appear normal not ski jumped. Think "cosmetic" when you apply. You can do this with gel glue, however they nails may pop off because glue breaks down in water. The acrylic holds up better

A second option on applying the tip in acrylic is to apply the ball of acrylic on the very edge of the natural nail and press the tip into it. Hold in place until it has dried enough to be secure.

6. After you have applied all ten nails and they are dry, cut and shape and overlay with acrylic.

You can use a traditional colored tip, however you will see the tip line because you cannot do any blending. The tip encases the free edge that flips up and the end result may be a little thicker than the average so file the tip and cuticle area thin for a better look. This is not a permanent solution; it is a temporary one because you cannot train the nails to grow down when they naturally grow up. You may have to do more replacement sets more often than the average client so build that into your price.

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an 
endorsement of any kind.