TIP OF THE WEEK #32 SIMPLIFY YOUR FILL SERVICE
By Vicki Peters 

There is has a few posts recently about how long services should take that I 
want address again with some points about techniques. First here is what I 
wrote in a previous Tip Of The Week On timing. 

Over the years of teaching and interfacing with techs from all over the 
country I have figured out the national average on services - according to 
only me me of course. So here is a list of times that may help you set some 
goals.

Acrylic Full Set - 1 12 hours
Fills - 1 hour
Back fills - 1hour & 15 minutes
Basic Pedicure 30 minutes
Regular pedicure 1 hour
Deluxe/Spa pedicure 1 12 hours
Basic manicure - 30 minutes
Deluxe/Spa manicure - 45 minutes to 1 hour
Gel or Fiberglass full set - 1 hour
Gel or Fiberglass fill - 30 - 45 minutes 

What I thought was to take the fill, which is what we do the most in the 
salon and break it down and detail the service more for you. Based on a 1 
hour fill here is what I do. 

Now let me tell you if you're a fairly new tech it is going to take you years 
of working to get your fill skill down to an hour if it is taking you longer. 
It took me about three years to get my fills done from 1/15 hours to 1 hour. 
Then it took me another year or so after I started backfilling to squeeze the 
extra work of a back fill down to an hour as well and being happy with the 
results. For the first years or so I scheduled an extra 15 minutes. My long 
term goal was to get all my services down to 1 hour so no matter what walked 
in the door I could get it done. I also learned to schedule tougher clients 
an extra 15 minutes. What I mean by tougher clients were the ones that just 
took longer and was no one's fault. Just the opposite of the ones who take 45 
minutes because they are easier to do for whatever reason. Too bad all 
clients could not be created equal - sure would make our jobs easier!

So here is how I dissect my 1 hour fill:
I break my fills up into four 15 minute increments: preparation, apply, shape 
and finish. Now remember this is only the way I do it - you need to devise 
your own system.

PREPARATION - 15 minutes
1. Wash your hands and have the client scrub her nails with a clean 
sanitized nail brush. (Get lunch out from underneath now!). 

2. Remove polish - I use pure acetone - contrary to the belief that acetone 
melts the acrylics - it does if you leave it on there but for a quick polish 
removal where your going to fill or re-buff in a polish change there is no 
harm done. Using pure acetone and real cotton will save time. This is also 
the time to socialize, look your client in the eye (your head will be done 
for the rest of the service) and see what needs to be repaired (by hearing 
from the client that she broke a nail - like you can't figure that out!) LOL!

3. Push cuticles back. I use a thin 180 silver board made by Flowery that I 
have used for 20 years and for some reason I can't give up! The cuticles 
will be soft from washing her hands. My manicurist uses Blue Cross Cuticle 
Remover and a metal pusher to push my cuticles back, then cleanses my nails 
with alcohol before she files me down. Now for those who know me and my 
beliefs my manicurist goes totally against what I believe about wetting the 
nails before she fills and cleansing with alcohol. However I have never been 
able to go three weeks with absolutely no lifting so this procedure works, 
and works well. She is a 19-year veteran and knows what she is doing. But 
when you use oil or a cuticle remover at this stage of the service do me a 
big favor and clean those nails real well. 

4. Now file down the cuticle area so you have no fill lines. I use that 180 
Flowery file in tight spots and a100 or 150 for the rest of the nails.

5. Shorten the nails.

6. Go over each nail entirely to take the top surface off that may have 
turned a speck yellow if they are pink and whites and re-shape the top, sides 
and tip shapes completely. I like to do most of my filing here - making the 
application and finish work easier. 

7. If your backfilling this is where I cut the new smile lines. I thin the 
tips of the nails with an barrel bit and my electric file first then I cut 
all the smile lines.

8. Dust with a clean nylon nailbrush. I do not recommend those black fluffy 
brushes - they a re not sanitizable and distributes nail dust and oils from 
the previous client. If you use anything it must be washable or sanitizable.

9. Apply dehydrator or whatever you use to clean and dehydrate at this point.

10. Apply primer and let dry as you get your liquid and powder out.

APPLY - 15 minutes

11. I like to apply all my whites first, then I throw away the liquid because 
it is usually milky and you don't want to use it for the pink. Pour fresh 
liquid.

12. Apply the pink or clear powder - sometimes I use a smaller brush, 
depending on how much needs to be filled in at the cuticle area. 

SHAPE - 15 minutes

13. With my coarsest file - either a 100 or 150 I file and shape all the 
nails. I have a system in place so I do the same routine on each nail.

14. Then I repeat the same exact routine with a 180 file. 

· If the nails are smooth enough I do this shaping procedure only once with 
a 150 file instead of using the 100 and then the 180. Saves me time. 
· Check the nails 5 ways - also another tip of the week.

15. Then I buff. Before buffing remove the grit from the previous file - this 
will help you graduate your grits better. Otherwise your buffing in the 100, 
150 or 180 grit left behind defeating your purpose. I use a mylar grey 
buffing file these days (there are tons of varieties out there) because they 
hold up well with cuticle oils. White blocks don't and I like a two-sided 
one, one with coarser grit than the other and I use the smoother side with 
oil. They are also washable and sanitizable and last much longer even though 
they are more expensive - in the long run they work about to be about the 
same cost.

FINISH - 15 minutes

16. I then high shine buff with a three way or if the nails are smooth enough 
I go right to a chamois buffer with buffing cream. 

17. Instead of having the client leave my station and wash again, because she 
already has, I remove the dust from my hands and hers as well with a towel 
and give her a quick hand massage. This giver her a special treatment, 
rehydrates my hands as well and saves time because they never go wash and 
come straight back do they? 

18. I then cleanse her nails with a lint free pad and soap and water I have 
in a squeeze bottle or a cleanser.

19. If she prefers polish or a protective topcoat I would apply it now. 

If your having trouble getting your time down - assign a time to each 
procedure you do and time yourself one procedure at a time until you get your 
time down then move on to the next procedure until you have that one down 
too. Such as 1 minute to remove polish. Don't just try to work faster - it 
does not work - you must have a plan and a system. Devising a working system 
is difficult - you have to be organized and have decided what files and 
application techniques work the best for you. 

Watch the clock too so you know where you need to speed up. And put a clock 
somewhere where you can easily see it without having to look up all the time 
and give the client the impression your rushing. You may want to just turn 
your watch around so it is facing you, as you work. 

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an 
endorsement of any kind.