TIP OF THE WEEK #31 ITCHING FINGERS
By Vicki Peters 

The recent chat on the mailing list about itching fingers is why I thought 
that a Tip Of The Week would be a good subject because we all have had a 
problem client that has experienced itching after we have applied acrylics.

I am writing this from my experience only and am sharing what I think the 
problem is. Chemically there may be some technical reasons why fingers itch 
after acrylic application, so the information I am sharing with you is just 
my opinion, here based on experience not research. 

Let's start with my first experience with itching fingers, which happened 
back in 1982 when I first started doing nails and information was scarce. My 
friend, a dental hygienist wanted acrylic nails so I put a set on her. Before 
I even finished she was experiencing itching and her cuticles were red. She 
would complain that the itching would last for days, the skin around her 
cuticles would peel and she would be fine. When the itching became 
unbearable we decided not do continue applying acrylics and went to 
manicures. 

Years later I realized what the problem was. 

1. First she was a dental hygienist and exposed to MMA and dental 
powders all day so when I put her nails on she was already overexposed to the 
chemicals. So when you have a client with this problem ask if she is 
working in a dentist office, married to one or near those kind of chemicals 
on a regular basis. 

2. Second she was a thin-skinned redhead. That did not help - her skin was 
very sensitive and thin. 

3. I did not know what I was doing back then and I am sure I slopped that 
liquid all over her skin when applying the nails. 

Over the years I have seen this happen to many techs and they never know why. 
Many think it is allergic reaction and it may be but I feel it is over 
exposure to the liquid monomer. Why do some clients who have been wearing 
nails for years all of a sudden experience this? They have become over 
exposed.

How do you stop this from happening? You don't you need to be preventative. 
If you have a client that is experiencing the itching, remove her nails, do 
another service and give her body a break from it. 

How do you be preventative? it is simple. 
I speak from almost 20 years of experience watching almost every top tech in 
the country or world compete in nail competitions and observing thousands of 
working manicurists do nails in workshops and in their salons. I would say 
95 percent of you get the cuticle and sidewalls wet with liquid monomer as 
you apply acrylic. You may not even realize that you are doing this. Big 
brushes, lots of liquid, wiping the cuticle area because your too close, 
pressing the sides of acrylic in that is running over the sides with the 
belly of your brush or adding liquid to already applied acrylic because it is 
too dry are all ways we get the fingers and cuticles wet with liquid monomer. 
I believe that this is what is causing the itching, you have been doing this 
for years and the client's skin cannot take it any more. Many technicians 
break out after years of doing nails because of the over exposure to liquid 
monomer as well. 

So you must be preventive as you work and never touch the skin as you apply 
acrylic. 

Here are some suggestions:
1. Use a smaller amount of acrylic that you can control better when you 
apply. 

2. Use a much smaller second brush to apply the cuticle areas. I use a size 
4 or 5 for the cuticle area and size 6, 7 or 8 for application. (Sizes vary 
on the company's brushes). 

3. A larger brush should be used with total liquid to powder control. If 
you do not have that control and you get the skin wet scale down the brush 
size your currently using. 

4. I prefer a brush with a crimp because it is then two sided and I can use 
the flat tipped edge to get into tight spots if needed. However a good 
pointed tip can do the same thing making sure it is wiped out from any excess 
liquid before doing this of course. 

5. Know when to use the tip of the brush in small areas like the nail 
grooves.

6. Know when to use the belly of the brush to flatten or press the product.

7. Know exactly how much liquid is in your brush so the excess does not run 
off the nail and go into the cuticle and sidewalls of the nails. Knowing 
this is not an exact science it is knowing your product from experience. 

8. NEVER re-dip your brush for more liquid after you have applied the ball 
of acrylic thinking you can add liquid to it if it is too dry. Once the 
ball has formed and is shiny it cannot absorb any more liquid you have to 
deal with the liquid to powder ratio you got. 

9. Use a dappen dish that does not move on your table so when you press up 
against the sides when whipping you get a firm press on the side of the dish, 
giving you more control.

10. Make sure you have enough liquid in the dish but not too much. Dappen 
dishes should be deep enough to submerge your brush completely when needed 
but not so full you over saturate it when you only need a little liquid. 

11. If you use a pump controlling the liquid to powder ratio may be a 
challenge because when you try to wipe your brush you press on the pump - 
pumping up more liquid defeating your purpose. So practice dipping your brush 
conservatively and wiping lightly.

12. Do not over prime the natural nail. Using too much primer will flow into 
the nail grooves and down under the nail by the hyponichium and burn. This 
can cause itching and nail separation as well. Two coats of primer is enough 
and apply it sparingly and let dry. I use a tiny nail art brush to apply 
primer - I believe that the brushes in the primer bottles are too big to 
control the small amount you really need. Dab the primer brush on the table 
towel to release excess primer before you prime and always prime the biggest 
nail first when you have just dipped into the primer bottle. Pour a small 
amount of primer into a clean primer bottle so you have just what you need 
for the week. Two reasons for this, 1. when you spill it your only spilling a 
small amount!. 2. Your always using fresh uncontaminated primer for the best 
results. And remember primer is not always necessary. Use one to two coats 
on the average client and for the one who does not lift try not using any at 
all or a more gentle primer. 

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an 
endorsement of any kind.