
TIP OF THE WEEK #25
WATERLESS MANICURES By Vicki Peters
A waterless manicure is not a new idea,
just a new concept that seems to be
catching on. Gone should be the plastic bowls and dehydrating
that water
does while soaking in it. Soaking the nails in water expands them.
We should
be re-hydrating not dehydrating and using lotions and oils instead
of soaking
does just that. During a regular manicure as well as a spa manicure
we
should be doing more skincare in our services and not soaking
in water is the
perfect way to do that. So here are some suggestions and the way
I do a
manicure. Take what you like and make up your own system of a
waterless
manicure and restructure your manicure menu. The old fashioned
way of
manicuring natural nails are gone and it is time for all of use
to upgrade.
STEP #1
Always have the client take a clean dry sanitized nylon nail brush
to the
bathroom and brush her nails and wash her hands well before you
begin the
service. You should wash your hands as well. I put together a
little
manicuring basket that has the nailbrush in it, some antibacterial
soap that
smells wonderful and exfoliator to exfoliate her hands. I try
to make it
special. You can retail the soap and exfoliator too. You must
exfoliate
before you can condition because you cannot condition dead skin.
STEP #2
Remove the polish and file and shape the nails perfectly.
Do any repairs that need to be done at this time.
STEP #3
Apply cuticle oil or cuticle remover or cuticle cream (whatever
you prefer)
to all ten nails and rub in. If the cuticles are in need of a
lot of
attention you may want to use a cuticle cream with Alpha Hydroxy
in it.
STEP #4
Do a hand five-minute massage with a hydrating lotion - don't
spare any
expense here - use something really good that has conditioning
agents and not
a lot of greasy ingredients like mineral oil. Do not rub the lotion
completely in and use an ample amount.
STEP #5
This is where you would paraffin dip if that is part of your service.
Dip
the hands three times and place the hands into a plastic bag and
into mitts.
If you do not paraffin dip the hands then place them in plastic
bags and
warming mitts instead. Leave the hands in for about 5-10 minutes.
STEP #6
Remove the mitts or the paraffin and massage in the remainder
of the lotion
and moisturizers.
STEP #7
This is where I would so any skincare light lightening of age
spots, more
exfoliating.
Additional massaging or anything else you need to do.
STEP #8
Push back the cuticles and do any removing of the cuticles if
necessary.
STEP #9
Cleanse the nails with a lint free pad and cleansing solution,
such as Scrub
Fresh or a soap and water combination. I used to use Matrix's
Water Cure that
I diluted with water in a squeeze bottle. Woodward's Dr.G's 6S
is also good,
however too concentrated for the skin and nails so be sure to
dilute it as
well. Do not use alcohol or acetone - this really dehydrates and
leaves an
oily film behind on the nail plate.
STEP #10
Polish. One base coat and two coats of color with a topcoat is
the norm.
I always would have them dry their nails in my UV lamp which helps
set the
polish.
TIP: I suggest that you have two types
of natural nail care systems for your
clients. One with formaldehyde and one without. Some clients need
the extra
help and some do not. Some may even react to the formaldehyde.
Use a
"system" of products that are made to work with each
other for the best
results. Interchanging a base coat and topcoat may not give you
the results
you want long term. So read your labels and understand the ingredients
and
the system of products you use.
Another thing you need to pay attention
to are the fast drying top coats made
for acrylics like "Heat Coat". (You can tell the difference
by the smell -
they all smell similar to each other) These products can and may
chip off
natural nails immediately so do your homework on natural nail
tops coats that
are made specifically for natural nails. Drying in the UV lamp
- no matter
what products you use - can help.
DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters"
is not an
endorsement of any kind.
The Peters Perspective
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"
Visit my new web site: http://vickipeters.com