TIP OF THE WEEK #14
By Vicki Peters
TIP APPLICATION IN ACRYLIC
Diana posed a question about a comment
I recently made on the list about
applying tips with acrylic instead of glue, when I was addressing
the tips
not holding up. Glue, gel glue and most bonding agents and resins
are all
cynoacrylates. Cynoacrylates break down in water and acrylics
don't, that is
a fact. So every time you wash your hands you're contributing
to the
breakdown of the glue you are wearing.
Now I am not stating that glue is not
good - do not misunderstand me - what I
am claiming is that acrylic is stronger and bonds longer to the
natural nail.
So let's start with my tip of the week
about cutting out the wells. You can
find it on the Nailtech Website. As you all know I am a huge fan
of cutting
the wells out of tips, refining the smile lines and placing the
edge of the
tip on the edge of the nail. It is a cosmetic way of applying
a tip that
gives very little strength, the strength is in the overlay. If
the overlay
does not have a properly balanced overlay and is weak on the sides
and stress
are the tip will break. Same goes for a sculpture. So make sure
your overlay
is providing the structure not the tip. Applying the well-less
tip on the
edge of the natural nail with acrylic will give it more strength
to stay on.
Here are three suggestions for applying
tips with acrylic:
#1
Size out your tips and refine them if you choose to. You can use
this method
with or without wells, with natural colored tips and French white
tips. Prep
the nail plate just like you would for a sculptured nail, primer
and all.
Let the primer dry. One tip at a time turn the tip over so the
underneath is
facing up. Place a small amount of liquid and powder on the inside
of the tip
where the contact area is going to be on the nail. Spread a thin
layer across
the entire edge of the tip. Use pink or clear powder. Place on
the nail and
hold into place until dry. This takes a bit more time having to
hold the tip
while drying but the results will be better. When the tips are
secure cut and
shape the tips and continue with your overlay procedures.
#2
Another way to do this is to place a small ball of acrylic on
the tip of the
natural nail and spread it over the entire edge of the nail. Then
press the
tip into the acrylic. Again you must hold the tip in place until
it is dry.
Too much acrylic will squish out and not enough will not give
enough
strength. When the tips are secure, cut and shape the tips and
continue with
your overlay procedures.
#3
The third way to apply tips in acrylic is to overlay the entire
natural nail
with pink powder. Before the acrylic is dry press a white French
tip onto the
very tip of the acrylic on the natural nail and let dry. Apply
the cuticle
area very thin or not completely up to the cuticle area. Once
you have done
this on all ten nails cut and shape the parameter of the tips.
Then overlay
the entire nail with clear acrylic, right over the pink you already
applied
with a thin coat and over the white tip. Be sure to view from
the side to
make sure you have not applied too much clear acrylic on the nail
bed and not
enough on the tip.
Ok so now another tip: there is no need
to take the shine of the tips once
you have applied them. The acrylic will stick to them anyway -
however
whenever applying gels and fiberglass you may want to take a white
block and
remove the shine.
DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters"
is not an
endorsement of any kind.
The Peters Perspective
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"
Visit my new web site: http://vickipeters.com