TIP OF THE WEEK #11
By Vicki Peters

TWO STEP ACRYLIC APPLICATION FOR NAIL BITERS
Recently there has been some discussion on the mailing list about how to
apply acrylic to nail biters, which fueled this week's tip of the week.
First let me tell you that there is no difference in strength between an
acrylic tip and overlay or sculptured nail, when done technically correct.
However that is not always easy to do with nail biters. They are a separate
challenge. I believe that nail biters need to be educated in the fact we
cannot create miracles in one appointment and they have to make a commitment
to the success of wearing acrylics as well. I will also tell you that I have
never been happy with the way a nail biters nails look for several fills.
Something about working over your own work and the nails taking on a better
shape as they grow out. This all needs to be explained to the nail biter so
she knows what to expect the first time and later on down the line, and she
needs to make a commitment to you as well.

I believe in a two-step process for a nail biter. One is building a nail bed
longer and the second is extending it. I have done this many times
successfully and it does not take any longer time wise. It just looks like
it takes more time.

STEP 1
Start with a good healthy manicure. Conditioning and removing cuticle and
pterygium is very important if you get a chance to do one a week prior to the
acrylic service your results will be better.

STEP 2 - CLEANSE THE NAILS
Start the prep process by cleansing the nails with a nail cleanser or a nail
brush and soap and water. Do not use alcohol or acetone because each has an
oily residue in them. Push the cuticles back again and buff the nail plate to
remove the shine only, no need to scratch up the nail plate with a coarse
file, use a 240 or higher. Then dust the nails.

STEP 3 - PREP THE NAILS
Apply a dehydrator and two coats of primer one coat at a time allowing them
to dry to a chaulky white surface.

STEP 4 - DECIDE
Decide if your going to use a form or tip.

STEP 5 - BUILD THE NEW NAIL BED
With pink powder apply 1 ball of product that blends into the nail plate shy
of the cuticle area. Press the ball of product over the free edge of the nail
right on the skin on the tip of the finger. Touching the skin is ok once, so
don't worry about it. Make sure the tip of the acrylic that you push over the
end of the nainatural nail bed is even and smooth. So when your done you
should have a nail bed that is longer than the original one. You may want to
use a dense pink powder do you can't see through it like a very clear powder.
Do all ten nails.

STEP 6 - TIPS
If your going to use tips, apply one nail at a time and before it is dry
press the tip into the tip of the free edge you just built. Hold until it is
dry and do the rest of the nails, applying pink acrylic and the tips one by
one.

I highly suggest you cut the tip wells out competely - (Refer to my tip
cutting tip of the week where I cut the wells of the tip out before applying
the tips.) This will allow you to press the tip into the smile line area
perfectly give the nails a longer look now that you have a longer nail bed to
work with. Think cosmetic as you work. Invision the end result as you
place the tip.

Once dry, cut and shape the tips. No need to remove the shine on the tips
but if you do use a block buffer gently. Apply a clear powder over the
entire nails up to the cuticle area. This is a perfect way to get a permanent
french manicure look using pink on the bed with clear over the white tip.

STEP 7 - SCULPTS
If your sculpting after the product is dry press the tip of the finger down
under the pink powder that is on the tip of the finger and break the seal.
Place a form underneath and apply your white tip powder building the
extension. Coat the entire nail with clear powder (a thinner amount on the
tip of course).

WHEN YOU'RE FINISHED APPLYING:
Check the side view of all the nails to make sure you have a good apex and
strong sides. The apex is the high point of the arch and center of the nail
from the cuticle to tip.

Good luck!

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an
endorsement of any kind.