Trip
Reports
Bike
Trip - TCT Across BC:
1.Vancouver
Island
2.West Vancouver
to Coquitlam
3.Coquitlam to
Albion Ferry
4.Albion Ferry to
Cultus Lake
5.Keith Wilson
Bridge to Hope
6.Hope to Princeton
7.Princeton to
Penticton
8.Penticton to
Creston
9.Creston to Alberta
border
1.
Vancouver Island Section (May 18 - 21 / 2001)
Day 1 - May 18, 2001: Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal
to Victoria
In planning this four day bike trip of the TCT on Vancouver Island, I
chose to carry a minimum of food as my cycling Partner John Mullen and
I would always be near communities. For the last couple of years I have
been using a tarp as shelter. My tarp (Integra Designs) combined with
mosquito netting (total shelter weighing 1.5 lbs) worked great. The advantage
of using a tarp as opposed to a tent is it's versatility. I can configure
the tarp in many shapes depending on the terrain and weather conditions.
I can erect it for rest breaks where I never would consider doing that
with a tent. If it is raining, we can prepare dinner under the dry comfort
our shelter and lay out all of our gear. If it rains all night, It is
a simple job to pack up my gear while staying dry. With a tent, at some
point you have to get out and prepare meals, etc. I have also found that
for short trips, my tent never dried once it got wet. With a tarp, I can
take it out and dry it quickly while have lunch for example. I have slept
in my tarp during wind/rain storms and even when it has snowed. I have
always remained dry. It has become my choice for three season wilderness
camping.
There was plenty of places to refill our water, so I only took a one litre
bottle for drinking. I would recommend treating the water as you will
need to refill from creeks (which may carry protozoa like giardia) along
the way. I carried my gear in two rear panniers plus one day pack strapped
to the rear rack. In the future I will use a handlebar bag or two small
front panniers. I was constantly having to get off my bike to retrieve
my camera or some food. Plus it would be much easier to have my maps where
I can reach them quickly.
Another way of reducing your weight is to choose a small sleeping pad
(thermarest are ideal). I layed out my sleeping bag on my small thermarest
and panniers and found this arrangement very comfortable. One other handy
thing I carry is a toque. It acts as another layer of clothing by insulating
by head from heat loss. As we all know, we lose up to 50% of our body
heat through our head and this loss increase to 75% if we get wet.
I want to mention one other thing concerning bikes. We both used mountain
bikes for this trip. John Mullen who has cycled extensively all over the
world also agrees that mountain bikes are better option. He owns a hybrid
(road wheels with mtb frame) and did not feel it would have performed
adequately over the rougher trails we were on.
Swartz Bay to View Royal (Galloping Goose)
The following times are presented to help give future riders a rough idea
how long a section takes. Times will vary with weather, direction of travel,
winds, and fitness level. I had not done any long distance bike rides
until this weekend, the weather was warm and there were no difficult head
winds to contend with.
Swartz Bay to Clover Point: 4 hours (easy
riding): 2 hours (no breaks)
Swartz Bay to Switch Bridge: 3.5 hours
Switch Bridge to TCT Pavilion at Selkirk Bridge: 15 minutes
Switch Bridge to Colwood Pub (6mile house): 40 minutes
Colwood Pub to Luxton Fair Grounds: 30 minutes
Luxton Fair Grounds to Goldstream Park (day area): 35 minutes
Goldstream Park to Shawnigan Lake South turnoff: 1 hour
Shawnigan Lake turnoff to Renfrew Road: 2.25 hours
Mussio Ventures are releasing a TCT map book for the B.C. section. The
following times correspond to numbered sections on their maps. I hope
they are helpful to anyone planning to ride those sections:
8 to 9 Kinsol Trail: 1 hour
9 to 10 Cowichan River Railgrade Trail: 3 hours
10 to 11 Cowichan Valley Trail (16.7km): 1.5hrs
11 to 12 Paldi Trail to Paldi: 40 minutes
12 to 13 North Duncan Route (13.6km): 1 hour
13 to 14 Crofton Route (11.3km): 45 min.
14 to 15 Chemainus Route (8.5km): 40 min.
15 to 16 Ladysmith Route (8.9km): 20 min
16 to 17 Cassidy Route (6.3km): 30 min.
17 to 18 White Rapids Interim Route: 1 hour, 20 min.
18 to 19 The Parkway Trail: 20 min.
As we departed from the ferry in Swartz Bay, we had to peddle quickly
to get ahead of the off loading vehicles and move to the far left hand
lane leading out of the terminal parking lot. There is a small access
route to a side road on the East side of the Pat Bay Highway. Look for
signs directing hikers and bikers to a paved trail. This route into Victoria
is not the TCT, but provides an excellent off-road path into town. Once
we got going we traveled along this path most of the way into Sidney.
There are some quiet side roads that make up this route, but the scenery
is quite pleasant. Sidney has numerous grocery stores including a bike
shop. From Sidney we followed the ocean route taking in the many quaint
houses along the way. Eventually we crossed the Pat Bay Highway near the
Waddling Dog Inn / Esso Gas Station intersection. From here we climbed
a small hill paralleling the West Side of the Pat Bay before returning
once more to East Side of the Highway.
Near a large open farm, the Lochside Trail officially begins. This terrific
route leads directly into Victoria and is about 80% off road. We traveled
past farms, through groves of Maples, creeks and the spectacular Blenkinsop
Bridge over Blenkinsop Lake. This is a great place to take some pics and
have a break. In fact, when we cycled this trail, I was spending much
our time taking photos.
The Lochside Trail joins the road for a short distance through Cordova
Bay. There is a wonderful market/coffee shop where the road begins. This
is a good place to eat or simply use the washroom, as there are no public
facilities along the trail. The Lochside Trail joins an arm of the Galloping
Goose near Swan Lake (a bird sanctuary) before turning South into downtown
Victoria.
Once we crossed over the switch bridge, which spans the Trans Canada Highway,
we were on the official TCT. We took this path into downtown Victoria
past Beacon Hill and eventually to Clover Point. At Clover Point I was
able to dip my bike wheel into the ocean and then take in the many kite
flyers that congregate along this windy exposed stretch of Dallas Road.
We followed the ocean around James Bay and into the past the parliament
buildings. Be sure to try the ice cream at the Beacon Spot Restaurant
adjacent to Beacon Hill Park. It is worth the long bike ride from the
ferry. If you have time to sightsee, be sure to visit Munroe's Books.
With its high vaulted ceilings and classical music, it is a book lovers
dream destination. The rebar restaurant in Bastian Square serves up healthy
vegetarian meals in a funky atmosphere. Plus it is a great place to people
watch. We took a leisurely 4 hours to bike from Swart Bay to Clover Point.
It certainly can be done in about two hours if you kept your feet to the
pedal.
Leaving the downtown core we traveled over the Johnston Straight Bridge
and were soon at the first TCT pavilion located on the South side of the
Selkirk Trestle. This represents the official start of the TCT. Once we
crossed over to the North end of the bridge the paved pathway passes underneath
the Gorge Road Bridge. The ceiling of this archway is adorned in a magnificent
mural depicting two individuals reaching out to the sky above. The mural
is entitled "bridging" and is quite breathtaking. Under the
bridge, Cecelia Creek runs into the Selkirk Waterway, forming Cecelia
Creek Estuary. This body of water within Victoria Harbor leads to the
Gorge Waterway (a place I used to fish for bullheads and sticklebacks
as a child).
Day 2 - May 19, 2001: Victoria to Koksilah
Canyon
We retraced our route from earlier in the day until the switch bridge.
The galloping goose heads north alongside the Trans Canada Highway. From
this bridge to Burnside Road West (View Royal), the journey takes about
twenty minutes. The path is paved most of the way, except for one delightful
section through a grove of alder, maples, and poplars.
View Royal (Galloping Goose) to Koksilah
Canyon
The weather during our entire trip was warm and sunny. We experienced
some strong winds along the way, but nothing to really slow us down. The
Galloping Goose from View Royal passes through the communities of Colwood
and Langford before rejoining the Trans Canada Highway just south of Goldstream
Provincial Park. The section maintains the typical 2% rail grade except
where we traveled along roads. It is easy to follow with one notable exception.
Once John and I left the Galloping Goose to make our way to the Trans
Canada Highway, the TCT detours around Langford Lake using a connecting
network of quiet roads. It is in this section we experienced some frustration.
My only advice is to ask the locals for directions if you feel you are
off the route and to keep heading for Langford Lake. Mussio Ventures is
publishing a TCT guide and the maps should help through this section,
though I found the directions sometimes a little vague. The map book breaks
the route into sections. At the end of this trip report I have listed
the approximate times for many of these sections.
Once John and I reached the Trans Canada Highway, we crossed over to the
east shoulder and headed north. I recommend stopping at Goldstream Provincial
Park. Here you will find washrooms, picnic tables and of course beautiful
Goldstream River. There is also a campground to the south of the picnic
area. In addition to this camping area, we passed a bed and breakfast
in Langford right on the trail.
The TransCanada Highway climbs over the Malahat and is viewed by Victorians
as a steep, dangerous mountain highway. I can only say the grade is gradual,
with a few flat sections and even a couple of small downhill parts to
it. The shoulder is wide and I always felt safe. Having said this, I would
not want to ride a horse along the highway. The cars do travel rather
quickly.
Along the way, John and I were treated to awe inspiring views of Finlayson
Arms and the surrounding mountains adorned in Douglas Firs, Hemlocks and
my favorite, the Arbutus tree. Just to the south of the Shawnigan Lake
South turnoff is situated a restaurant that’s outside deck offers
a vertigo view of the water below. The food is delicious and reasonably
priced. It is a good reward after cycling one hour up the Malahat.
The Shawnigan Lake South turnoff is south of the actual Malahat summit.
Once on this artery road we coasted downhill most of the way until reaching
the Sooke Lake Road. John and I then biked up a steep, but short hill
to the trailhead for the CNR. This rails to trails route is easy to follow
all the way to the North End of Shawnigan Lake. It is worth the detour
to visit the Kinsol Trestle. This immense wooden train trestle spans the
Koksilah Canyon. The trestle cannot be crossed because of neglected condition.
There are efforts to restore the trestle to its former glory and make
traveling the TCT through this area much easier. We instead had to detour
down to Burnt Bridge, which is gated. A horse traveler is really inconvenienced.
We were able to pass our bikes over the gate, but I am not confident a
horse would be that easy to negotiate across the three-foot high steel
gate. Once on the other side, we got a terrific vertigo view of the water
below. Small birds (whose name escape me) amused us by diving from rocks
and swimming below the surface. No, they were not ducks, but instead looked
like small starlings.
We headed east along the north side of the Koksilah River. The road is
gravel and fairly easy to follow. About one kilometer down this dirt road
we came to a wooden staircase leading to a forest trail. You can easily
lift the wooden post that blocks entrance to the staircase in order to
carry your bike down more easily. About 150 meters down this trail is
an area suitable for camping. A small creek runs into the main river and
we camped near this. There is plenty of firewood, good trees for caching
food, and relatively flat ground for pitching a shelter. The location
is much more quiet than the Koksilah River Provincial Park on the south
side of the river.
Day 3 - May 20th: Koksilah Canyon to Cowichan
Valley (East of Paldi)
The trail we camped on continues northeast down the Koksilah River. The
trailhead sign at the staircase indicated the trail has 'dead ends'. However,
Island Map 4 in the TCT guidebook (soon to be available) clearly shows
a trail leading to the Kinsol Trestle. John and I chose to take the dirt
road. There are many intersecting roads (all unmarked) and we were certainly
were not sure of the road to take to reach the north end of the Kinsol
Trestle. With a little help from two motor bikers, we managed to reach
the TCT. The trail along the river is probably passable to hikers though
further exploration needs to take place before I would recommend this
section for cyclists. Please check current conditions with Trails BC before
proceeding along this part of the TCT route.
Once we were back on the TCT, the route is clearly marked all the way
into Lake Cowichan. The route is flat, following the rail bed through
groves of giant maples, alder, hemlock, Douglas fir and devil club. This
route is well used by day-trippers and we were lucky to meet a couple
(Sue and Ian Womsley) that offered their backyard (east of Paldi in the
Cowichan Valley) to us to pitch our tarp.
There are wilderness camping opportunities just to the north west of 12
Springs Rest Stop in Marie Canyon. Trestle Marie Canyon Trestle is breathtaking.
When we crossed it, there were repellers getting reading for a vertigo
experience into the heart of the canyon. At this bridge, travelers will
find picnic tables and washroom facilities. A good place to refill water
bottles is at the 12 Springs Rest Stop. I do recommend treating the water
as the creek flows through populated areas.
Near the town of Cowichan, John and I crossed on un-finished trestle bridge.
It was short and quite easy to cross with our bikes. At this point, the
Cowichan River flows quietly through a wide bend in the river. Probably
a good place to do a little fishing if you have the time.
There are a few restaurants in Cowichan, plus some campsites. The town
has all the usual amenities with grocery stores, etc. We did not stay
too long, because we wanted to reach Paldi before nightfall. We followed
the quiet CP Rail bed, which parallels the Old Cowichan Lake Road route.
It is a good alternative to traveling along the road and it took us directly
into Paldi. Once in the small village of Paldi we returned to Old Cowichan
Lake Road and reached our destination for the night, the Womsley's.
I am always grateful for the generosity I have been shown when traveling.
We were able to shower and spend a relaxing evening taking in the scenic
valley views from their home. John, who did not feel he had done enough
cycling for the day went on a mission to buy beer and chips and some fruit
for tomorrow morning’s early start. We slept very well that night.
Day 4 - May 21: Cowichan Valley (East of
Paldi) to Nanaimo
The TCT from the Cowichan Valley to Ladysmith is along quiet roads for
most of the way. The terrain is picturesque with farms, quaint homes and
rolling hills. We stopped for a proper breakfast in Chemainus and viewed
the building-size murals the town is famous for.
Once we reached Ladysmith, however, the fun ended. The TCT goes up a steep
hill (Davis Road) and turns northwest (not east as the guide suggests)
into downtown Ladysmith. After a couple of blocks the route goes back
down to the highway. We were determined to follow the TCT the whole way,
but I am not so sure other (more sane) bikers would not simply miss Ladysmith
and avoid the knee cracking hill climb.
Takala Road on the west side of the Tran Canada Highway is marked on the
map and is accessed by going underneath the highway through a tunnel.
To reach the tunnel you must follow a secondary road that parallels the
highway. Once on Takala, we were beginning our approach to Cassidy and
once again we were treated to many hills. The scenery is nice; the hills
left me gasping for air.
The map and guide will allow you to reach the City limits of Nanaimo without
any problems. My friend John who has cycled many times through Nanaimo
believes a flatter route with similar scenery can be accessed by following
Cedar Road on the east side of the Tran Canada Highway.
Eventually we reached the Nanaimo Parkway Trail, which is mostly paved
and took us into downtown Nanaimo. We began to see TCT signage as we entered
Bowen Park. The park is very beautiful, with lots of opportunities to
relax. However, we were on a mission to reach the Departure Bay Ferry
Terminal.
I want to point out that just before the TCT enters Bowen Park it meanders
through Buttertubs Marsh (an excellent bird sanctuary). We were met with
two gates that only a hiker (and perhaps a poodle) could negotiate without
too much trouble. This trail was not meant for cyclists and certainly
not for horses. I stripped my bike of its gear and with more patience
than I usually have squeezed my bike through the twisting gate entrance.
Once through we were quickly around the lake and onto the road for our
approach to Bowen Park.
Bowen Park is TCT signed, but not very well. We got off course numerous
times. My only advice is to follow Millstone River as shown on the map.
Eventually you will reach the bridge that goes underneath the highway
and easily find the TCT paved route along the ocean. The path jack-knifes
up a couple of streets along the way, but this is no big deal. After a
couple of easy clicks of riding we found ourselves at the Departure Bay
Ferry Terminal.
It was somewhat anti-climatic for us as John just made the 3:00 pm ferry
back to his couch in North Vancouver. I needed to make my way to Duke
Point terminal and my car in Tswassen, but that is another story.
We both enjoyed this trip. It offers a wide variety of landscapes and
lots of opportunities to get out the camera for some memorable pics. If
you are planning to cycle, hike or horse back ride this route, please
send me an email. I will try to help you if I can.
PICS
Clover
Point, Victoria. the start of the journey!
John
Mullan admiring 'Bridging Mural' underneath Gorge Road Bridge in Victoria.
Kinsol
Trestle (not passable) spanning Koksilah Canyon north of Shawnigan lake.
Re-built
trestle/bridge near Shawnigan Lake.
One
of many wall size murals in the town of Chemainus.