Stories
1.
Layering For Winter
2.Blistering
Choices
3.Bear Essentials
4.Walking From Canada
To Mexico In A Day
5.As Good As It Gets
6.Soaked To
The Skin
7.The Desert Strikes
Back
8.Eating Dust
9.Cycling The Trans Canada
Trail Across British Columbia
10.Cycling From
Victoria To The Yukon - Part 1
Trip Reports
'Bears, rain and mud are all part of the Cape Scott experience'
Cape Scott, Vancouver Island -- As I came
out of the forest and on to the beach, I was immediately blasted by gale
force winds. Wet sand swirled around my head and stung my eyes as I struggled
for balance. It was impossible to hear anything above the roar of the
ocean. I leaned forward as the relentless rain threatened to chill me
to the bone. I was soaked to the skin. Cape Scott was living up to its
reputation as the stormiest place on Vancouver Island.
Our adventure started a couple of days earlier when we arrived at the
Trailhead. Rain clouds that seemed to be tracking our progress along the
gravel logging road opened up just as we pulled into the parking lot.
Within minutes, we were caught in a torrential downpour. We climbed into
our heavy backpacks and rain ponchos and hurried down the trail. For the
next hour the only sounds I heard were the water bouncing off my body
and the 'glush glush' my boots were making as I slogged through the mud.
The main trail to Nels Bight, the most popular beach destination for hikers
was easy to follow. I just put one wet boot in front of the other and
gingerly negotiated the countless tree routes and slippery board walks
along the way. I only slipped a few times, which is amazing considering
how slick the surface of path was. I used my hiking poles for balance
and avoided most of really bad mud holes.
Our first night was spent at Eric Lake on one of the many cedar platforms.
The spacious platforms were built to protect the fragile forest floor
from campers. I was lucky to have Glen with me on this trip. He is very
gifted when it comes to building campfires. Even with a continuous downpour
he managed to get a roaring fire going within minutes. While Glen was
putting his wilderness skills to the test I erected a bomb-proof shelter
using my light weight tarp. The tarp kept us dry all night. To top it
off, we had selected a site underneath a stand of ancient Sitka Spruce.
The following morning we were rested and raring to hit the trail. By the
time we reached Nels Bight late the next day I was wet, weary, and hungry.
We had heard about the Rangers Cabin from some other hikers who were leaving.
They were trying to beat the storm that was forecasted to hit Cape Scott
later that night. Glen and I focused our energy on reaching the cabin
before anyone else. In my mind the cabin took on almost mythical proportions.
I imagined hot tubs, showers, an internet connection. In reality, the
cabin was quite small, almost to the point of being claustrophobic. There
was a shower, though it was outside. However, by the time the wood stove
was glowing with warmth I was very grateful to be inside. A sign on the
wall invited hikers to use the cabin when the rangers are not around.
I crawled into my sleeping bag that night praying the rangers would not
be around for at least two more days.
The next day Glen and I had a close encounter with a very large black
bear. It was probably the biggest bear I have ever seen. It looked the
size a Volkswagen beetle and sported a magnificent black coat of fur.
It was aware of us, but seemed unconcerned as it easily peeled away mussels
and clams from the rocks. I crouched behind a tree chewing my tasteless
Powerbar as the bear dined on fresh seafood. It moved from rock to rock,
as if it was sampling the food at a buffet. I continued to watch as it
disappeared around the point. Seeing animals in the wild has always been
a highlight on my trips. This encounter is one that will stand out for
a long time.
Most hikers to Cape Scott visit the lighthouse. It represents the furthest
point in the park and is a wonderful day hike destination from Nels Bight.
On our way to the lighthouse we slogged through some more beautiful forest
and two uniquely different beaches. The first one at Experiment Bight
is expansive, calm and offers many good camping opportunities. The second
one at Guise Bay is the complete opposite. We were blasted by wind, rain
and sand for the kilometer it takes to reach the safety of the trees on
the far side. Mountainous sand dunes just inland are testament to the
violent windstorms the area experiences. I managed to make it across without
being knocked over. My partner was not so lucky.
Once in the forest again, the deafening wind subsided. The trees shielded
us for the time being. We reached the lighthouse and climbed on top of
the helicopter landing-pad. Soaked to the skin, I pulled off my hood and
looked out on to the ocean. Hundreds of miles of open water lay before
me. I watched as another wave of storm clouds rolled in from the West.
I needed to constantly rub my hands and stamp my feet for warmth. It was
simply to cold to just stand around enjoying the view. I reached for my
water bottle but it was empty. "Oh well", I thought to myself.
"Finding water won't be any problem out here."
Access
Cape Scott Provincial Park is located at the northern tip of Vancouver
Island. It takes about five hours to drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy.
From Port Hardy it is a further sixty-seven kilometers, part of which
is on active logging roads. The route is easy to follow and can be done
by two-wheel drive vehicles most of the year. Visitors wanting an easy
day hike can go to San Josef Bay, a pleasant one-hour walk from the trailhead.