Stories
1.
Layering For Winter
2.Blistering
Choices
3.Bear Essentials
4.Walking From Canada
To Mexico In A Day
5.As Good As It Gets
6.Soaked To
The Skin
7.The Desert Strikes
Back
8.Eating Dust
9.Cycling The Trans Canada
Trail Across British Columbia
10.Cycling From
Victoria To The Yukon - Part 1
Trip Reports
'The
heat sapped my strength and spirit.'
I counted ten steps and slumped over my hiking poles. Overcome with nausea,
I vomited. The thermometer hanging from my backpack read 40 degrees Celsius.
I took a sip of water and struggled to get up. The sixty pounds of food
and gear on my back was unbearably heavy. I removed most of my food and
left it on the trail with a note, "Enjoy!"
It was only the forth day of my planned thirty-nine day trek across the
Grand Canyon. Suffering from heat exhaustion, I was afraid of becoming
another Grand Canyon fatality. I forced myself to drink more water. The
intense dry heat was squeezing the fluids right out of me.
My troubles first began when I arrived at the Ranger Station. The South
Rim, normally blanketed in a meter of spring snow was bare. Tourists were
walking around in shorts and t-shirts. The Canyon was experiencing a drought.
The seasonal creeks along the route I planned to hike were unreliable
with only one confirmed report of water. The conditions meant I would
need to be extra careful.
I descended into Bass Canyon, a large dry tributary of the inner gorge.
I set up camp near a collection of natural water tanks. Turning over a
stone to make room for my sleeping bag I uncovered a scorpion. I replaced
the rock and climbed uneasily into my sleeping bag. As dusk fell, a herd
of Desert Bighorn Sheep picked their way along a steep talus slope towards
camp. They had come to drink from the tanks. It was a beautiful sight.
The following two days were spent locating the correct route along the
Tonto platform. The trail snaked along exposed ledges and through cactus
covered ravines. Eventually I came to a difficult cliff descent. The trail
ahead simply disappeared. I turned around and made my way back to the
river.
On the morning of the forth day I left camp early; determined to get back
on the correct trail. After two exhausting hours I was back on track.
Unfortunately, in the process I lost my main navigational compass. Feeling
despondent I followed the trail in search of some water when I spotted
three hikers in the distance ahead of me. At first I thought the hikers
to be only a mirage. But when I called out to them, I realized I was not
alone. I decided to follow them to the rim and re-start further upriver.
During the remainder of the afternoon, the heat sapped my strength and
spirit. I slowed to a shuffling pace, barely able to lift my legs. Feeling
light headed I stumbled and narrowly missed a precipitous fall. My body
stopped sweating even though I continued to drink water. The desert conditions
left me with little appetite, but I forced myself to eat some trail-mix.
Waves of nausea rolled over me. I fell to my knees and vomited.
To lighten my load, I threw away most of my remaining food. I was desperate.
The final climb to the Esplanade was almost too much. Reaching camp I
collapsed and stared up at the sky. I had just completed the most difficult
day of hiking in my life. I was lucky to make it out. Reaching the safety
of the Grand Canyon Village, I decided to abandon the rest of the journey.
The heat exhaustion weakened my body and desire to continue. I was not
properly acclimatized to the desert.
Now back in the coolness of the rain forest, my head is clear again. My
strength has returned. Since being home I have climbed a few local mountains,
pushed my body through one marathon hike, and trekked for a week around
Cape Scott on Vancouver Island. Strangely enough, the Grand Canyon experience
has left me with an even greater thirst for wild places. The danger of
desert travel is real but I am returning next Spring to the Grand Canyon.
For the following expedition I am including an acclimatization period
in the desert prior to setting out.
The outdoors has taught me so much. I have learned about the natural world
and in so doing have learned even greater lessons about myself. I am grateful
for that.