Stories
1.
Layering For Winter
2.Blistering
Choices
3.Bear Essentials
4.Walking From Canada
To Mexico In A Day
5.As Good As It Gets
6.Soaked To
The Skin
7.The Desert Strikes
Back
8.Eating Dust
9.Cycling The Trans Canada
Trail Across British Columbia
10.Cycling From
Victoria To The Yukon - Part 1
Trip Reports
'Rainforests,
mountains, and shredded tires are just part of the Trans Canada Trail
experience across BC.'
Elk Pass, British Columbia / Alberta border – As I crested the final
hill, a football size alpine meadow opened up before me. The spectacular
granite crags and snow-clad peaks of the previous day had disappeared
behind a shroud of cloud and smoke. Fires burning across the border had
sent smoke into the valley, making it difficult to catch my breath. I
passed a grey metal gate; that seemed so out of place amongst the multi-color
backdrop of spruce, pine, gooseberry and Indian paintbrush. A sign read,
“Entering Peter Lougheed Provincial Park”. I had reached the
Alberta border. After more than 1,600 kilometers of spectacular trail
and captivating scenery I had made it!
As I rode back down the trail to the park entrance, my mind was flooded
with images of my experiences along the Trans Canada Trail (TCT). This
was my second self-propelled crossing of the province. It had been eight
years previously that I had trekked across BC on foot mapping out the
original TCT route. There had been many changes to the trail since then
and seeing them on bike had given me a fresh perspective.
The trail through BC begins in Victoria and snakes its way across the
southern portion of the province. One of the things that stood out is
the diversity I discovered. Over the course of my journey I rode through
dense rain forest, climbed awe inspiring mountain passes, and even shredded
my tires cycling the desert region through the Okanagan.
I divided my journey into a series of one-day and multi-day bike rides.
The advantage to me was that I was able to break up my trip into a series
of smaller cycling excursions. The entire journey from Victoria to the
Rockies took 27 days spread out mostly over weekends. My best cycling
days were those when I started at dawn. On those days I took advantage
of the cooler temperatures and the opportunity of seeing more wildlife.
In fact I remember climbing up towards Kootenay Summit early one morning
when I heard the “clip clop” sound of hollow hooves against
rock. Scanning the adjacent bluff I spotted two bighorn sheep as they
negotiated the steep cliff face. I held my breath as these graceful creatures
seemingly defied gravity picking their way along dangerously steep ledges.
It was the hope of seeing nature up close that inspired me to do this
trip in the first place.
I averaged 15 km/hour and completed about 5 hours of steady cycling per
day. This allowed me lots of time to relax and explore each area I traveled
through. In fact, one of the great things about the TCT is that it connects
numerous small towns along the way. I remember staying at the Beaverdell
Hotel, the oldest continuously run hotel in the province. It was there
that I met a woman embarking upon her first cycling adventure. She was
with a group of friends doing the magnificent Myra Canyon section. She
was breaking in her new mountain bike, a birthday gift from her family.
She had just turned seventy!
There are numerous places to join the TCT throughout the route. This allowed
me to complete a long linear trail without having to derail my personal
life in the process. I was also able to develop my cycling legs gradually,
rather than becoming overwhelmed physically. If you are not familiar with
the trail, I recommend consulting the ‘Trans Canada Trail, the British
Columbia Route’ guidebook first. The maps and description will allow
you to plan your ride as either a short day trip or longer multi-day excursion.
For me, the most beautiful section of TCT was the 7 km ride from the old
mining town of Coalmont to Princeton. The scenery was amazing! The trail
hugs the inviting colbalt green waters of the Tulameen River as it makes
it way downstream. There were numerous places to camp, swim, or just relax.
Along the way I passed by vermillion bluffs that reminded me of a large
multi-layered cake that had been cut down the middle exposing its center.
Nearby were the butterscotch colored Hoodoo’s. Made of sandstone,
they stood like sentinels guarding the landscape. The ride was easy and
highlighted by a long train tunnel blasted through the rock that marks
the entrance to the town of Princeton.
I met many inspiring and interesting people along the way. Just about
every TCT enthusiast stops by Paul Lautard’s Rest Stop when they
pass through the tiny hamlet of Rhone. Located along the Kettle Valley
Rail (part of the TCT), Paul has built a covered shelter complete with
hammock, picnic tables and ice-cold water. The day I dropped in on Paul,
the temperatures had soared leaving me dehydrated and craving a cold drink.
I was delighted to find tall pitchers of water with ice floating in them.
When I first rode up I thought perhaps I was hallucinating from the heat.
But when I rang the cowbell, Paul appeared with his dog and an even colder
pitcher of water. A master carpenter, he built the place for weary trail
travelers. The project he was working on when I arrived was a train caboose
modified to include a wood stove, kitchen sink, and sleeping bunks. Did
I mention he also has a workshop to die for! I had a few minor repairs
to make to my bike but he had me fixed up in record time. All Paul asks
is that you sign your name on the shelter when you leave. Every beam is
virtually covered in names and places and dates. It’s really one
big trail record made out of wood!
One of the challenges in building a trail stretching across the province
is installing adequate signage. When I rode the trail I encountered several
sections that were not completely signed yet. My advice is to check with
the guidebook and/or Trails BC to find out about the current status of
trail you are interested in riding. I was lucky with the weather. I never
spent one day in the rain. However, the areas near the coast typically
receive lots of the wet stuff, so be prepared. Make sure you have rain
gear and warm clothing to change into. Another thing to keep in mind is
your drinking water. In most cases, you can refill your bottles from potable
sources, but there may be times when you need to use a stream or river
for your drinking water. You should always treat your water to protect
yourself against giardia and other contaminants. By taking these simple
precautions you will have a worry free trip.
The Trans Canada Trail is open to bikers, walkers, and horseback riders
of virtually all levels. Because the trail can be done in sections, outdoor
enthusiasts can choose easier areas first and build up their fitness level
to tackle some of the more challenging sections later.
I guess my only advice to anyone interested in cycling the TCT across
British Columbia is simply this . . . do it! It is a great way to see
the province!