Stories
1.
Layering For Winter
2.Blistering
Choices
3.Bear Essentials
4.Walking From Canada
To Mexico In A Day
5.As Good As It Gets
6.Soaked To
The Skin
7.The Desert Strikes
Back
8.Eating Dust
9.Cycling The Trans Canada
Trail Across British Columbia
10.Cycling From
Victoria To The Yukon - Part 1
Trip Reports
“Ours
is the first and will doubtless be the last party [. . .] to visit this
profitless locality.”
Lieutenant J. C. Ives, 1857 Grand Canyon Expedition
For years I had dreamed of backpacking the Grand Canyon. My first few
moments overlooking the south rim of the South Kaibab trail left me spellbound
with anticipation. The cold Arizona wind whipping through the stands of
juniper and pinion pine left my face numb from the cold; and I wondered
if I really needed the sunscreen. My guide book described the canyon in
strictly mathematical terms. It was 14 miles wide, 1 mile deep, and 276
miles long. These facts meant nothing until I spotted an airplane soaring
below the rim that appeared to me as an insignificant bug against a towering
backdrop of colour and light.
Standing at the trailhead, the inner gorge seemed barren, yet as I descended
the landscape came alive with strange and exotic plant life. Amongst the
1400 species thriving within the canyon, I spotted the brilliant blooms
of the prickly pear cactus, Indian paintbrush wildflowers, and the tall
vertical stock of the century plant. The colour of the rock is also deceiving.
The dramatic Redwall limestone layer which lies about halfway between
rim and river is not one uniform colour. As I walked next to it, I could
see shades of purple, as well as some brown and orange mixed with streaks
of black. In early morning and as the sun set, the panorama of light and
shade cast from above made everything I gazed upon seem magical and alive.
Colours and detail changed so quickly it was like watching a moving picture
roll past my eyes.
I did not reserve my backcountry permit ahead of time and was pleasantly
surprised I needed to only wait one day before entering the canyon. I
would recommend however that you book ahead as the popular corridor trail
campsites fill up quickly during the spring and autumn.
On average more than 400 hikers require emergency rescue each year. As
I cautiously crept down the first few hundred meters of icy trail, I hoped
I would not add my name to this list. The perils awaiting each intrepid
walker ranges from heat stroke, dehydration Hyperthermia, hypothermia,
physical injury, scorpion and of course snake bites. Throughout my descent
along the South Kaibab trail I repeatedly ran into people without adequate
supplies of either water, food, or clothing. Near the Colorado river I
met three hikers who walked down the Bright Angel trail without any extra
gear or overnight reservation expecting to find accommodation at Phantom
Ranch. Another couple I met just after dusk also asked me where Phantom
Ranch was located. They were dressed as if they were on their way to the
local super market. In preparation of this trip I had purchased a 4 gallon
water bag and special instep ice crampons for the slippery sections near
the rim. Without these two items, I would have endured a very treacherous
journey instead of the purely enjoyable one I experienced.
The steep descent took me from the freezing temperatures of the south
rim (7,200 feet) to the balmy Sonoran climate (102 degrees Fahrenheit.)
of the canyon floor (2,460 feet). After four relentless hours of knee
jarring walking I was rewarded with a picturesque oasis at the confluence
of Bright Angel creek and the Colorado river. Within minutes I was quietly
relaxing along the sandy bank of the Colorado with an afternoon as open
and free of commitments as the canyon is wide. Bright Angel Campground
is a lush paradise of cottonwoods, prickly pear cactus and century plants.
The most ferocious creatures I encountered were the ‘snack &
run’ ground squirrels that patrol the rocks directly behind camp.
Many campers have missed a meal due to these furry free-loaders.
The clear desert air provided a wonderful medium to view the many odd
natural shapes and structures in the gorge. Buttes, terraces, fine grained
cliffs and overhangs; there was so much for the senses to take in. I felt
overwhelmed by this natural wonderland of textures and colours.
The next morning I awoke early and made my way along the Bright Angel
Trail before the sun was too high. Canyon floor temperatures are much
warmer than on the rim. It is the unwise hiker who challenges the canyon
trails during the egg frying heat of mid-day. During the scorching hot
summer months inner canyon temperatures routinely soar above 126 degrees
Fahrenheit.
I reached Indian Gardens campground after only 2 hours of steady walking
and was once again amazed at the lushness of the vegetation all around
me. The area sits upon the Tonto Plateau adjacent to immense cliffs of
red limestone. The area is also the terminus for walkers and mule riders
visiting the inner sanctum of the canyon only for the day. Mule riders
are instructed to give their beasts a gentle jab in the ribs if they wander
to close to the edge of trail as the mules occasionally fall asleep.
After dinner, with a light rain falling, I walked out to Plateau point
for a magnificent vertigo view of the river below. To my delight a herd
of mule deer were grazing in the meadow below me. The plateau is a wide
open terrace dotted with santa catalina’s (purple coloured prickly
pear cactus) and century plants. Rain clouds swirled overhead and let
loose a refreshing downpour of much needed rain water. The wind threatened
to knock me over as I clung to the steel railing on the edge of Tonto
point. After a few reflective moments gazing upon the muddy waters of
the mighty Colorado, I turned to walk back. Within a few moments I was
surprised by two immense black shapes shooting straight up from below
the plateau. I could scarcely believe my luck, but I had just witnessed
the first sighting of the rare California Condor along the Tonto plateau.
These majestic birds (with an adult wing span of 9 feet) traced a beautiful
arc in the sky and then disappeared below the rim. My first thought was
‘Wow!’ I can’t believe my luck quickly followed by the
realization I was out of film. Only 16 California Condors were released
in the Canyon 2 years ago. Scientists hope to repopulate the inner gorge
with these endangered majestic creatures.
I walked out the following day, having passed through 1.7 billion years
of the earth’s history as carved out of the limestone, sandstone,
and shale of the canyon’s walls. My walk from river to rim was the
climatic equivalent of walking from Mexico to Canada, without the blisters.
A few miles below the south rim I chanced upon a wall of ancient pictographs
(believed to be of Havasupai origin), excellently preserved. These ancient
carvings are believed to be between 200 and 400 years old. I marveled
at the simple artistry in the lines and curves, wondering about the meaning
behind the drawings and the kind of life the artist would have lead within
this canyon kingdom.
By the time I reached the end of the trail on the south rim I was walking
into an unexpected snow storm with horizontal sleet lashing my face and
hands. I bent forward with my head down and eventually reached the top.
In three days I had witnessed 4 seasons, about 2 billion years of earth’s
history, rare wildlife, ancient artifacts, and all by simply walking a
trail. I tried to recall what that fellow Ives said about the Grand Canyon.
He must have meant some place else.