The Champs-Elyssee is hung with golden lights in a wine glass shape down each bare tree, a long golden avenue of glittering Christmas light sloping away from the arc de triomphe down to the Tuileries and the Louvre.

Every neighbourhood has decked a main street in lights. They twinkle in the grey chill and the bustling streets seem to bustle, huddle and shimmer.

The golden glow of Paris is sparkling and shining, with sparks of red and green Christmas tree lights.

We bought a classic European tree, pointier and more wintry-seeming than the kiwi Norfolk. We found a delicious strong of red globes and white leaf-shaped lights top string around it.

Maria made a paper star, then insisted it had to go at the 'rightest top.'