Memorable meals

There are a few meals that stick forever in your memory, no? We've been lucky enough to enjoy two in the last ten days.

This is where we went for dinner on my birthday.


Possibly the most stunning atmosphere I've ever dined in. The restaurant is in a train station, Gare de Lyon. It truly drips baroque elegance from every inch. We had a drink in the old gentlemen's club-style bar, sitting in old red leather winged-back armchairs sipping kir royal then dined underneath the glittering chandeliers and old frescoes. I had a delicious fois gras 'pour commencer'. The main, foie de veau, was so-so. We asked the waiter for a wine recommendation. With a twinkle in his eye he recommended the '77 chateaux margeaux. "Yes, let's have that," Josie said but I had already seen it's 1200 price tag and demurred as the waiter knew I would. We settled on a 2002 Chateaux L'Hermitage, which he felt was a poor match and to tell the truth it was maybe worth a fraction of its 88 price. Doesn't pay to convert currencies.

Last week we went to Flora's. The atmosphere was nowhere near as unique, although the eight of us had a private room and very personal service (possibly because one of our number was related to Flora). But the food was unrivalled. The best we've had in France, easily. Nine courses. Tiny samples of delicacies. The partridge was memorable for being unique. The best dish, easily, was a fois gras borscht - a pate swimming in a soup, which sounded unpromising but was transportingly delicious.

This review says Flora is regarded as on of the most talented chefs in France. (The article, curiously, qualifies the description 'one of the most talented female chefs'.) I can see how she's earned the respect. Her creations were French provincial inspired, which we've come to expect to be staid and dated. But these dishes were innovative, tantalising and unforgettably, droolingly good.

I would just say anyone coming to Paris should reserve a dinner there. Prepare to be impressed.

Today, for Carlo's birthday, it's off to MacDonalds. Sigh. Variety, you see.

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