Holy Kham  (click on the pictures to see more detail)
It took almost a year after returning from Kham before I had an explanation for the the stones around this stupa. But a sharp-eyed reader of this webpage was able to both read the inscription on these stones, and explain the meaning. It is a mantra spoken to Chen-re-zi, the Changchug Sempa of Compassion, and in Tibetan, it sounds something like "Aum Mani Padme Hung". It is more commonly rendered phonetically in English as "Om Mani Padme Hum" and it roughly means "All hail the jewel in the lotus." A more complete explanation is given by "The Asia Experts".
Like the village, the temple too, is surrounded by a gate. These gates don't appear to be intended to keep people out, but more to mark the boundary and frame a space. While we have seen the doors closed on temple buildings, we have never been barred by doors from entering temple grounds.
We happened to arrive at the same time that the monks were arriving for prayer. They were not all filing directly into the temple, but clustered in small groups like kids at recess, delaying their return to school. For many boys, the monastery is their school; the government hasn't built a lot of public schools because the population density is so low, and kids couldn't make a daily trip to distant, centralized school. Boys can board at a monastery, as well as learn to read and write. One difference is that, in the monestary they learn Tibetan; in the government school they learn Chinese.
The monks seemed as happy to see us as we were to see them. There was a little bit of zoo voyeurism on both sides. We have read that monks are sometimes forbidden to interact with lay people, especially women. This may be true for older, more dedicated monks, but we have never known a young monk to show any reluctantance. These young men posed eagerly for pictures, and did not hesitate to ask us about our travels and our time in China.

Ever wonder what goes on inside? Click here to visit the temple
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