Suspension and engine bay

I learned the hard way that it's easier if you FIRST reach between the coils with a 1-5/8" wrench and unscrew the rubber bump stop. You don't have to compress the spring as far if the bump stop is removed.

You can't take the bump stop out - it won't fit between the coils - but you can leave it lying at the bottom until you remove the spring.

Cheapo Harbor Freight spring compressors hook over the spring and squish it so it can be pulled off.

The instructions weren't clear, so let me say that this is NOT how to attach the spring compressors' safety hooks. They're supposed to go at the single-claw end of the compressor, holding it against the spring.

Impact wrench makes it go more quickly. Careful, though! You MUST compress both sides equally -- otherwise the compressor bolts can bend, making it impossible to REMOVE the compressor without cutting it off! (Guess how I found this out...)

AFter this picture I backed off the tension on the compressor so there was no risk of the spring popping out.

Spring perch and upper ball joint are secured by two bolts.

The perch is a tight fit, so it takes a couple of taps to free it.

With both upper and lower balljoints unbolted, there's basically nothing holding up the wheel hub. I braced it on a jackstand to keep it from falling out.

With the spring and perch removed, these bolts are all that hold the A-arms in place.

Once unbolted, the arm just lifts out.

These shims fit between the A-arm bracket and the body to set the correct wheel alignment. I've labeled them so I don't mix them up!

Suspension and engine bay