Walking and hiking
Despite their green and pleasant look, the Albères are serious mountains; the higher Pyrenees even more so. If you plan to do anything more strenuous than a stroll around the village, then you should be suitably prepared, with stout footwear, a map, and most important of all in summer, plenty of water. The walks described here are some that we ourselves who are reasonably fit mid-50s have tackled.
For local walking, we recommend the Institut Geographique National (IGN) 1:25,000 map "Banyuls, Col du Perthus & Cote Vermeille: 2549OT" (we have framed part of it and hung it in the entrance hall of the downstairs apartment). IGN maps are available from the Maison de la Presse chain (branches in Céret and Port Vendres).
Wandering around Laroque
We love to walk through the old village and up to the ancient tower at the very top of the hill. There are many possible routes through the village; there's no need to return the same way as you went.
From the tower you will have a stunning view of the Albères mountains. On a clear day you can also see many villages and towns both near and far, the whole of the Roussillon plain stretching towards the Corbières hills to the north, the Mediterranean sea to the north east, and looming over everything in the west, the Pic du Canigou. There are a couple of panorama tables to identify the various peaks and cols on one side, and towns and villages on the other.
If you want something more strenuous, a number of paths ascend from the village into the Albères mountains; the Tourist Office has leaflets in English describing several possible walks. If you are reasonably fit and have a whole day to spare, then it is even possible to walk to Pic Neulos (1256m or about 4100') and back. We ourselves have made it up to Col d'Ouillat (936m) and then down again by a different route.
Col de l'Ouillat and Pic Neulos (almost) by road
Pic Neulos is the highest point in the eastern section of the Albères mountains between the Perthus gap and the Mediterranean sea. It is a strenuous walk either from Laroque (allow a whole day there and back) or from the coast, or alternatively you can drive most of the way. Go to Le Perthus on the Spanish border, and turn left just as you enter the town (signed St. Martin d'Albère; also signed to a large car park). The road winds up the Albères, past the turn-off to St. Martin, finally reaching the frontier at Col de l'Ouillat where there is a picnic area and a small bar-restaurant. Continue up the road until finally it is barred to motor traffic. You can park on the wide ski piste that turns left just before the road is barred. It is then a 30 minute gentle walk up the road to Pic Neulos, from where the view in all directions is just fantastic.
Port Vendres to Cap Béar, Paulilles, and Banyuls
Follow route du Cap Béar, which heads east beyond the commercial (eastern) side of Port Vendres harbour. Park at Redoute Béar, an old fort and monument to the Foreign Legion. Cap Béar itself is about a kilometre further east along this very quiet road. From Cap Béar, you will need a map to find the path that runs along the cliffs and past a couple of beautiful coves to Paulilles, on the main road between Port Vendres and Banyuls-sur-Mer. From Paulilles, the map suggests that there are footpaths all the way to Banyuls but we have not yet found the start. Note that you cannot walk round the headland; much of the land is owned by the military and closed. Carefully walk up the side of the main road to the top of the hill; from here you can take a path through the vineyards to Plage des Elmes at the northern end of Banyuls. We then stop for a beer in the hotel, and ask the patron to phone for a taxi to take us back to Port Vendres.
