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Transfer Case Shift Linkage | |
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CONTENTS 1) Vehicle Setup 2) Performance Review 3) Installation Write-Up 4) Additional Resources 1) VEHICLE SETUP - 2001 Jeep Tj 4.0L Automatic - 1" Body Lift and 1" Motor Mount Lift - Low Profile Skid Plate - Skyjacker T-case Linkage Relocation Bracket While this Jeep has extensive changes to the stock drive train / frame / body relationship, the concept of the write up is still valid provided measurements are taken off your own rig. 2) PERFORMANCE REVIEW Difficulty With Transfer Case Shifter: For many years the the Rube-Goldberg-esque shift linkage for the transfer case shift system has been very problematic on this Jeep and many others. Even before the installation of the Skyjacker relocation bracket the stock upper shift rod was bent for some reason. For years when ever the shift linkage was removed the rod would be re-straightened and reinstalled only to have it re-bend again in short order. Then, with all the removal and reinstalls of the linkage the plastic bushing in the 4WD shift lever finally wore out to the point that the linkage would pop out on it's own quite easily. This, coupled with a fussy adjustment block, yielded spongy, vague shifting, difficulty getting into 4WD, misaligned stop gates in the shifter, and difficulty accurately adjusting everything. Solution: The solution to this was to finally fix the upper shift linkage. A new shift linkage was built using quality spherical rod ends and a threaded rod. This required modification to the shift linkage system to accept the new rod ends which involved some welding and steel fabrication and re-using the factory 4WD shift lever. Performance: The new linkage has breathed new life into 4WD shift linkage system. By eliminating the old, bent rod and half the plastic bushings in the linkage system the shift feel is vastly improved. No more misaligned stops in the shift gate, no more spongy, vague shift feel. Now a simple pull on the lever results in a crisp, satisfyingly notchy, mechanical feel as the shift lever snaps with authority into each mode with the transfer case's range selector. And with proper jamb nuts and rod ends the linkage stays adjusted to it's proper length. Cost: Total cost for all the parts was approximately $25. This included rod-ends, all-thread rod, some regular nuts, some nyloc nuts, a few washers and a couple bolts. Bottom Line: If your shift linkage is working just fine then leave it be. But if you're having difficulty shifting, keeping the linkage in adjustment, or have bent or damaged linkage components then consider this modification as it greatly improves shift feel and accuracy with higher quality components that are stronger than stock. 3) INSTALLATION WRITE-UP Gaining access to the linkage is not terribly difficult, nor time consuming, but there are several layers of the Jeep that need to be peeled back to access everything. More difficult is the welding that needs to be done for those without the skills or access to equipment. And careful measurement and calculation of the linkage length is needed. Remove Shift Linkage System: Shift the transmission into neutral and shift the 4WD lever into 4-Lo. Support the transmission and driveline. Remove the skid plate. The linkage system was originally snapped into place with barbed metal end tips so everything can be popped out for service. Using a screw driver or other implement, pry the adjusting block on the upper linkage out of the plastic bushings in the end of the 4WD shift lever. To preserve the life of any other plastic bushings, remove the whole linkage system by next unbolting the range shift lever from the side of the transfer case. Finally, remove the cross shaft. In stock applications this mounts to the transfer case one side and the body tub on the other. Remove Center Console: With transmission shifted to neutral and 4WD lever in the 4-Lo position, pull off the automatic's shifter handle. Just pull straight up to pop it off the detents. Do not twist, pull straight up. Pop out the shift lever bezel on the top of the console after feeling which side is easier to pry up. Disconnect the light bulb from the bottom of this bezel. Then feel under the forward edge of the bezel opening for the release tabs for the air bag on/off switch panel. Pop out the on/off switch panel an disconnect the wiring harness plug. Pull out the rubber cup holder trim, it should lift right out for full-console setups. For mini or half consoles you might need to take out the bottom rubber disk. Locate and remove the two 10mm screws holding the console in place (Fig 1) and remove console. Remove 4WD Shift Lever: Pry up the wiring harness from the side of the shifter bracket. Locate and remove the five 8mm screws holding the shift lever in place (Fig 2). Remove (Fig 3). [ c... |
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