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(Cont . . .) Currie Anti-Rock Review | |
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Arm Placement: A thick plate is welded to the end of the swaybar arms that fits over the splines on the sway-bar (Fig. 7). This plate must face in towards the frame so that the flat side of the arm faces out. Following Stu End Link Modification: Raise the arms until they are parallel with the frame. Then measure center of hole to center of hole between the arm and the mounting bracket on the axle (Fig. 9) to help determine link length adjustment. Because I was installing this on a Tj with only a 2" suspension lift the end links needed to be modified. Currie sets the end links up for a TJ with a 4" lift and 1" bodylift There is approximately 2" of adjustment to the link. Unfortunately, the links were 4 - 5" too long (Fig. 10). Currie suggest a hacksaw or grinder to further shorten the end link. This would have been accomplished quite easily if the end link rod was fully threaded. Since it wasn't it was a major production. Here's the low-down (there's probably a smarter way, I'm sure): The Currie end link rods have "rolled threads" instead of "cut threads." What this means is that the rod diameter is actually a little thinner than the max threaded diameter. A machine presses or rolls the threads into the shaft of the rod which pushes up the material to the proper diameter. All well and good but you can't simply take a die and cut new threads because the rod is too thin to start with. This necessitated getting a new rod. Yet this is complicated by the fact the the threaded rod has both a left and right hand thread pitch at opposite end like a turn buckle. The solution (there's probably a smarter way, there has to be, I'm sure of it): Head down to the local commercial fastener supplier that has every fastener and pick up a new link. Unfortunately, the fastener supplier didn't have anything like it out of their entire supply. Suddenly (because of time constraints) I discovered I'd need to get the pieces fabricated at a machine shop. The fabrication charge was quoted at $50 . . . each. However, the shop suggested I get a long bolt with sufficient thread length, pitch and a right hand thread. The shop would then cut the bolt head off and cut in the left hand threads as well as grind in wrench flats for adjustment (Fig. 11). This cut the fabrication price in half. More than I wanted to spend but better than the original quote, and the parts were ready after lunch so I could go wheel'n this weekend (it was a Friday). Grr. Final Installation: Now that I had the proper length end links, installation was straight forward: bolt the end links to the axle bracket and to the end of the swaybar arms. After that the bumper was bolted to the frame again and the fog lights reconnected. 4) Additional Resources Stu Olsen's review and installation was helpful since the Currie instructions were pretty sparse. However, apart from regrinding the inserts and getting new end links it's a simple and straight forward system. http://www.stu-offroad.com/antirock/antirock-1.htm And of course there is the Currie website. A rear anti-rock is available but I question it's worth, especially considering it requires welding. The front Anti-rock systems works great with the stock rear swaybar. http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/antirock.aspx Jason at Redrock4x4.com was a big help with the decision making and purchase. A real knowledg fellow and a good man to do business with. http://www.redrock4x4.com |
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