The Road to Matuod
Penman for Monday, April 30, 2007
WHILE SPENDING this last Holy Week break with friends on the beach in Lian, Batangas, I drove out to town for some supplies, and on the trip back to the beachhouse I saw four small boys on the roadside, walking in the same direction I was going. It was a long, dusty, single-lane road leading to Matuod, and only tricycles plied the route, aside from private cars and four-wheel-drives. (I thought about that name. Tuod among the Tagalogs means “tree stumps”; in my native Visayan it means “truth.”)
I saw the boys pause and raise their hands, flagging me down to hitch a ride. They were slight dark smudges on the horizon. I drove past them for about fifty meters—then I stopped, perhaps remembering the long marches I used to have to make between my grade school and the main highway, where I took the bus home. I put the Vitara in reverse, braked in front of the incredulous boys, unlocked the door, and let them pile into the rear seat. They smelled of sun and sweat—a healthy, effervescent smell, like grass stalks broken.
“How far are you going?”
“Just to Matuod. It’s not too far!”
It was far enough a drive for me.
“We’re visiting a friend!”
“That’s a long walk,” I said. “You better make sure to stay together on the way back.”
“Oh, yes,” said one. “We always hold on to each other. We’re afraid of the tikbalang.”
“The tikbalang! You believe in the tikbalang?”
“Oh, yes. We saw it on TV! We saw it in Pedro Penduko.”
One of the boys must have sensed my skepticism, and pointed at a tall hill to our right. “Do you see that cross on the hilltop? On Good Friday, you can go up there and make a wish. After three days, your wish will be granted. It’s true! I know someone who did that and made a wish. After three days, she got a new cellphone.” The other boys nodded furiously.
“What do you want to wish for?” I asked the firmest believer.
“I want to be rich!”
“Yes, we want to be rich!” They broke out in mad laughter.
“And I wish my mother could speak,” one added. “She’s dumb, she can’t speak.”
It was Holy Thursday. I could imagine the boys climbing up that hill the next day, shutting their eyes and mumbling their wishes. I let them off on the road where I had to make a left turn to the beachhouse, wondering which wish was the more difficult one—sudden wealth, or the gift of speech.
SOME READERS have asked me to write a bit more about fountain pens—this column, after all, is supposed to be that of some self-styled “penman”—so I’ll indulge them with what I’ll call Fountain Pens 101, or a layman’s guide to the use and care of fountain pens (you know, those odd cigar-shaped things old or fussy people write with that squirt ink and leave huge blue-black blooms on your shirtfront if you’re not careful).
Right after my daughter’s wedding on board a small yacht in San Diego a couple of weeks ago, some papers needed to be signed, and when the captain asked for a pen, I, of course, quickly handed over my fountain pen to the captain (who had apparently seen and used quite a few of these things on duty, and used it with aplomb) and then to one of the ninangs (who signed with the nib facing the other way, but hey, no damage done, good nibs should be able to do that, producing a much finer line). With those precious signatures (no, there wasn’t a blank anywhere for the father of the bride to affix his consent), the marriage was officially sealed and I happily got my pen back in one piece without the tines of the nib pointing in different directions.
One of my excuses for collecting fountain pens has always been that it’s good to use one for life’s most important signatures—the ones you’ll want to lay down with a flourish, with the varying width of the line registering your subtleties of mood and expressiveness.
Alas, it’s also during these most momentous occasions when your pen is in its greatest danger of loss or destruction, chiefly because (a) your mind, understandably, is dwelling on profoundly more important things, like where to get the cab fare for all those trips to San Diego you’re soon going to have to make; (b) what looks to you like a rare 1934 Canadian-made Parker Vacumatic Oversize in burgundy red that you paid three months’ salary for is no more than a funny-looking, pointy-headed disposable ballpoint to the fellow next to you; (c) something so sharp has got to be meant for stabbing paper and cracking blocks of ice with; and (d) of course everyone knows how to use a fountain pen, so let them, including your nine-year-old niece, the short-order cook, and who was that delivery person who came in off the street asking for a signature on a receipt for flowers?
In other words, people break and lose fountain pens all the time—maybe not you, but someone else—and with these pens tending to be dearer than cellphones or PDAs, you’ll want to know what to do with them once you get one—say, from the office (for your ten years of hard labor—what, a silly Sheaffer for all that?) or as a wedding present.

What about wedding presents? Well, my new son-in-law Jerry—who, I’ve been proudly telling friends, is part-geek and part-artist—found himself the possessor of the same pen that people used to sign the wedding papers with. I suddenly realized that no one else was going to inherit my colorful trove of plasticky junk (and Beng’s precious blue bottles) than Demi and Jerry, so what better time was there to start moving the inventory over than the present? So from my breast pocket to Jerry’s went the late 1980s Parker Duofold International medium-point in blue marble (when Jerry’s savvy brother Ray heard that description, he told Jerry: “That means, don’t use it!”).
But of course you can, Jerry—with a few caveats (which he got from me the day after, when things had begun to calm down; Fountain Pens 101 only works in an atmosphere of cold sobriety).
1. Don’t pull—unscrew. I mean the cap, which seems to attract world-class yankers and pullers, or people who come from a generation reared on pulling the caps off ballpens, rollerballs, and sign pens. With very few exceptions—such as the modern Faber-Castell guilloche—fountain pens come with caps that screw on and off the barrel. Yanking the cap off (or, conversely, slamming it back into place) will strip the threads, and while some repair work can be done to restore these threads, you don’t need the trouble and the expense. So the rule of thumb, when handling something that looks suspiciously like a fountain pen, is to unscrew—counterclockwise.
2. Hold on to the cap. In those inevitable situations when someone wants to borrow your cherished fountain pen for a quick and mindless signature, and you don’t have a “loaner” ballpen in your pocket (that’s Rule No. 3, below), unscrew the cap yourself, then hold on to the cap. This serves two purposes: you’ve just made sure your threads are safe, and holding a cap (as stupid as you might look) serves as a reminder that your pen is out there somewhere, performing its noble mission. The borrower’s also bound to look at the uncapped pen in his or her hands (and go “Eeeeuwww!” once they see the inkstain on their fingers) and remember that it’s yours, not theirs. Half a pen is no good to anyone.
3. Keep a ballpen or a rollerball handy. Find a nice one that won’t look too shabby beside the Pelikan M800 in your pocket, but which, push comes to shove, you can lose without grieving for the next two months. These standbys serve as loaners—you’d hate it, and others would, too, if you had to make a prissy little speech every time you lent out your Duofold (“Now let me tell you about the proper handling of fountain pens….”). And let’s face it: fountain pens weren’t designed to sign office forms in triplicate.
4. Know how to refill when. Pens dry out faster than ballpens, and you don’t want to run out of ink just as you’re recording those priceless impressions of the Parisian underworld or the Davao food scene on your Moleskine notebook. Fountain pens come with a variety of filling systems—lever, twist, piston, and, most popularly these days, cartridges (ugh). It’s a pain to have to carry a bottle of ink around—I can’t help thinking of an accident wanting to happen—but that might be the price you pay for choosing an expensively elaborate way of saying “I was here!” when a cheap Bic could have served the purpose. And speaking of ink, remember that there’s more to them and more of them than black. Visit the website I’m mentioning below for more information about your pen and ink options.
5. Empty pens when not in use. While it can be charming and therapeutic for a collector like me to remove dried-up clods of ink from barrels and sacs that hadn’t been flushed in 50 or even 70 years, you don’t want to wake up one morning to find your Cross Townsend—you know, the one you filled up six months ago—all gunked up and refusing to spit out a single letter. (In such instances of benign forgetfulness, soak the pen up to the “section” or the part where your fingers grip the barrel in lukewarm water overnight; flush the dried or old ink out before refilling; repeat as necessary.)
So there you have it, ladies and gents, and if you feel like you’re up to an even more specialized education in fountain pens (with topics such as “disassembling a Parker 51” and “What alternatives do I have to the Montblanc 146?”) then you can visit the friendly folks at the Fountain Pen Network (www.fountainpennetwork.com).
Are you reading this, Jerry?







