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Gaspé Mini-Guide: Ice Climbing and Backcountry Skiing
John Mallery
© 2006, John Mallery. All rights reserved.
Version 15, March 7, 2006.
Please send corrections, improvements and updates to jcmallery@nospam.mac.com
Contents:
Introduction
Photo Gallery
Ice Climbing
Backcountry Skiing
Logistics
Introduction
This mini guide to the Gaspé Peninsula (map) is intended for ice climbers and backcountry skiers. The Gaspésie offers some great ice climbing on dramatic sea cliffs, not to mention some of the best backcountry skiing in the Northeast with abundant snow, many varied couloirs and snow fields, and extreme descents up to 800m. The ice and ski venues are about 5 hours from Quebec City under good road conditions.
The prime ice season runs from the 2nd week in February through March, and often into the beginning of May on North faces. Although skiing is certainly feasible from February on, the best snow is usually found in March and into April.
Your first step for ice climbing is to buy a copy of Guide des cascades de glace et voies mixtes du Québec by Stéphane Lapierre and Bernard Gagnon, Sherbrooke, QC: Les Éditions La Randonnée, 2004.
Due the remoteness of the Gaspé region, you need to be prepared for any loss or breakage of equipment because no climbing or backcountry skiing gear is readily available beyond Quebec City.
Photo Gallery
View a slide show of Gaspé ice climbing and backcountry skiing.
Ice Climbing
Ice climbing in the Gaspé Peninsula offers unique sea-side ice climbing in a wintery atmosphere that feels like the end of the world (le but du monde). Although the ice routes are not particularly tall, they offer challenging climbing in an awesome setting. The ice climbing is concentrated on the North side of the peninsula from Sainte-Anne-des-Monts to Gros-Morne. Mont-Saint-Pierre is the center. The second ice concentration is at the tip of the peninsula, at Percé, known for spectacular Rocher Percé. Many of the best routes are right next to route 132 road and involve short approaches.
The normal ice season runs from mid February through March when harsh -40 Celcius temperatures moderate. Climbing in December and January can be confortable, or very cold. Near the coast the rock is metaphoric (often rotten schist), whereas in the mountains it is granite.
Snowshoes are indispensible for approaches to all routes, except for roadside attractions off route 132. Skis can also work in many cases, but not all.
Care needs to be exercised on ice exposed to the sea air because surface rime ice can easily fracture under body weight, so when in doubt, be sure to set your front points well.
Rock gear including pins is required on some routes. Specters, drive-in ice screws and ice pitons can provide gear or belays where nothing else works.
On routes like those on Mont-Saint-Pierre, drive-in ice screws and ice pitons are key for reliable belays in turf. Situations requiring creative belays are found on low angle mixed pitches on rotten rock, especially near the top of Mont-Saint-Pierre. Later in the season when nevé covers rock slabs, Routes on Mont-Saint-Pierre become much easier.
2006 Season
This year is exceptionally good for ice in the Gaspé. Almost everything is in condition!.
Due to a winter logging operation, the road up to the park from Mont-Saint-Pierre is plowed, allowing access well inland, including Mont Jacques Cartier.
There is a new 20m ice cliff in Rimouski where the locals are opening some new high-end lines this year. Inquire locally.
Mont-Saint-Pierre Area
The village of Mont-Saint-Pierre is the center of Gaspé ice climbing because it offers over 50 climbs within a 20 minute drive.
Corbeau 6+, 80m ** (5+ conditions now. The pillar has a 4 inch horizontal gap near the base. Yee ha!)
Corneille 5+, 75m *** (Ultra classic)
Ouskissont? 2+, M2 R, 500m *** (Classic alpine couloir, bring skis to ski down the approach road from the very top)
Vendredi Treize 3, M5 R, 500m, ** (M5 first pitch is ice now, a harder route than Ouskissont? due to slightly tougher mixed (M3) at the top)
Une Fière Chandelle 5+, 45m ** (Pillar has an old horizontal crack near the top. The 6 on the right is close to touch down. We TRed a free hanger just left.)
L'Épée de Jade, 6, 100m *** (ultra classic)
Le Mur Des Crapauds De Mer is comfortable in very cold conditions because it gets sun all day.
Les Cavaliers Du Vent, 3+, 160m ***
Vacance À La Mer 4, 80m ** or Triple By-Pass 4, 60m ** (0.2 west of the first one, pin belay, thin start) These climbs offer classic Gaspé settings climbing above the sea ice, which normally forms interesting patterns.
Percé Area
Percé is a town at the Eastern most tip of the Gaspé Peninsula, which is named after a large rock in the bay with a hole through it. This area sports some free-standing ice coming over undercut caves and some wild 200m ice directly over the beach! Beware of free-standers in temperatures above -1C or below -6C, as you do not want to join the ranks of climbers who have ridden falling pillars. A 2.5 hour drive gets you to Percé from Mont-Saint-Pierre, if you follow the inland road through Murdochville. The coastal route along 132 takes longer but runs past numerous minor ice climbs, many of which may not have seen a first ascent. The temperatures in Percé generally run a few degrees celsius warmer than the North shore.
Cannelloni Du Curé, 5+, 150m *** (Should be fattening up now.)
Moby Dick, 5+ M7, 190m ** (Good if you find the bolts for the second pitch, radical cliff with hanging ice).
Backcountry Skiing
March-April is normally the best season for skiing in the Gaspé. Although February can be good once the temperatures rise, the snow cover is normally more limited. In general, couloirs on the lee side of mountain ridges hold the best snow. Since the wind blows primarily out of the Northwest, the Southeast exposures are usually offer the best powder. Because the Gaspésie receives huge snowfalls, skiers should be well-prepared for travel in avalanche terrain (beacons, shovels, probes, etc.).
The best legal couloir skiing is probably in the Reserve de Matane around Mont Nicol-Albert (access from Matane). You will need snowmobiles to get in there. For details, contact François Roy, who runs a guide service for skiing and ice climbing out of Matane.
The Parc National de la Gaspésie has some good terrain open (obtain the map at the Interpretation Center), but both the best ski descents and the ice climbs are closed except with special permission from the director of the park. This permission can be obtained within a day or two by contacting the park director.
Apparently, recent deaths in avalanches shocked the local community and the park is now concerned with verifying the competence of both climbers and skiers. Parties in the mountains should be capable of self-rescue because there is limited technical rescue capability in the Gaspésie; it's the fire department! Although there is periodic avalanche forecasting at present, parties should be capable of evaluating avalanche danger for themselves. Keep an eye out for the huge cornises (30 feet plus) that form above descent gullies or ice climbs. Naturally, be prepared for extreme weather conditions, including very cold temperatures and high winds.
For special use permits, contact the park director at:
Francois Boulanger, Directeur du Parc
Parc National de La Gaspésie
1981 Route du Parc
Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, QC G4V2E4
Phone: 418-763-7494 ext 3321
Fax: 418-763-9492
Email: boulanger.francois@sepaq.com
Web: http://www.sepaq.com
Of the open areas for ski descent, the best skiing is probably out of the Serpentine Refuge (satellite). The Mur des Patrouilleurs has nice snow on a high angle slope. It is a fun 12 km roundtrip. The Grande Cuvé is another area open for ski descent 3.2 km further up the trail. It may have fresher powder because it sees fewer skiers. (There may be a closed sign across the trail that accesses the Mur des Patrouilleurs, but don't be faked out as it refers only to the summer approach trail and not the snow field. The normal approach is a little further up the trail.)
In the Reserve Faunique des Chic-Chocs, Mont Hog's Back is a user-friendly 2 hour roundtrip without the restrictive regulations of the park. Stay skiers' left at the top next to the trees to avoid talus under the snow, then trend right to hit the exit trail back to the car. The Champs de Mars is a similar 2 hr roundtrip affair with a new trail that lets you ski out from the bottom rather than having to climb back to the access trail and ski out it.
The Mines Madeleine also offers some great terrain for backcountry skiers, as well as some ice climbing in the 3-4+ range and up to 60m. Advanced reservations are required for the refuge, which charges $28/night.
For all outings, a good topo map and a compass are good precautions in case you get off route.
If, like many climbers and skiers, you feel the climbing and skiing regulations are too restrictive in the Parc Nationale de la Gaspésie, you can help move park policies forward by sending the director a cordial email stating your views. They have valuable resource, but they are not currently organized for its full enjoyment. (This would never happen in France.)
Ice Up, Ski Down Opportunities
Mont Nicol-Albert (Le Couloir Rioux, 3+, 700m with an 800m skiable descent down the 2nd couloir to the left).
Mont Albert (Couloir d'Albert, 2+, 300m with descent via Le Couloir des skiers , and further up the valley, La Coulée de Glace, 2, 300m with descent down the bowl to its right).
Mont-Saint-Pierre (Ouskissont? 2+, M2 R, 500m with descent down the access road. Other more difficult ascent options are possible.)
There is nice couloir below the Petit Willoughby area at Mont-Saint-Pierre, which provides a nice powder run back to the car and some nice ice climbing the the top. L'Épée de Jade offers a similar ski descent opportunity.
The descent from Fière Chandelle was skied this season as was the descent from the Le Mur des Crapauds de Mer (right side).
Lift-served Ski Areas With Backcountry Atmosphere
Le Massif du Sud is primarily an expert ski area Southeast of Quebec City just off the route to the Gaspé. The lifts run Fri-Sun, so you can find some fresh powder on other days when you will need to skin up.
Finally, in Murdochville, the Mont Miller Ski Area offers nice skiing and receives the largest snowfalls in the Gaspésie. The lift runs on the weekend, so mid week skinning provides fresh powder. This area is about 30 minutes from l'Anse Pleureuse -- and is on the fastest road down to Gaspé and Percé from the North shore ice venues.
Information on Quebec ski areas, including snow conditions, is available from the Association des stations de ski du Québec
Logistics
Lodging
Most gîtes around the Gaspé are actually private homes that take in tourists, rather than campy hostels like in France. Some of these are very nice (Maison Le Capitain in Mont Louis 418-797-5335), but you often find yourself standing in somebody's living room with a load of wet ice climbing gear. These accommodations are really not meant for ice climbers. A few, however, are actually set up to handle outdoor enthusiasts.
The Gîte l'Anse-Pleureuse is great for ice climbers. It is centrally located for the Mont St Pierre region, and at $25cdn/person with a good breakfast, it is a great deal. You can cook in the kitchen. It has color TV with a wide selection of channels. Dry your gear in the basement furnace room. At breakfast, you can see Épée de Jade, 6, 100m out the window. From the sea side, you can see Les Cavalier du Vent, 3+, 200m.
26 Ruisseau-des-Olives
Anse-Pleureuse, Quebec G0E2E0
Phone: 418-797-2033
Toll Free: 888-299-2033
Another option is the Motel Mont-Saint-Pierre, which is reasonably priced at $50/night including a good breakfast. A moderately priced dinner is available for an additional $12 or so. You can see Corneille, 5+, 75m, and Le Corbeau, 6, 80m, out the window at breakfast. A reservation is often necessary because the motel oftren fills up mid-week with snowmobilers on the Gaspé tour. The Motel Restaurant Au Délice (418-797-2850) offers nice rooms and an ice climber meal plan. However, the Anse Pleureuse gîte remains the best climber base at any price in our view.
If you want to base in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, for example, to access the Parc Nationale de la Gaspésie, this motel is one of the best deals in town at $50/night.
706 Blvd Sainte-Ann Ouest
Saint-Anne-des-Monts, QC G4V1V1
Phone: 418-763-3377
Most motels in town are $70/night (with tax). For the luxury budget, the Gîte de Mont Albert in the park runs about $200/night with fine dining dinner plus breakfast and tax included. If you're willing to spend some time in the park, there is a 5-day $550 package. Camping in the park is also available at $20/night. The high winter season runs from the 3rd week in February to the end of March.
12 kilometers east of Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, l'Auberge Festive Sea Shack (418-763-2999) boasts a friendly atmosphere in a hostel environment for $20-40/night. The Auberge International (418-763-7123) offers dormitory lodging for $27/night with a shared kitchen. Private rooms are also available at inflated prices. There is no TV but there is paid Internet access using their computers. The Pub Chez Bass is a good eating and drinking spot that also rents out rooms at $50/night. Auberge la Seigneurie des Monts offers higher end accomodations at around $80-100/night.
In Percé, there are two motels open during the Winter catering mostly to snowmobilers. The Fleur de Lys (418-782-5380) offers Internet access. For Winter season information, see http://www.rocherperce.com/english/hiver.html.
When asking the price for lodging, make sure they tell you the price including the tax, lest you be surprised by an extra 20%!
For an extensive listing of lodging in the Gaspésie, see: http://www.tourisme-gaspesie.com/.
Food
Sainte-Anne-des-Monts: Pub Chez Bass provides good food and drinking in a friendly atmosphere. Stock up on food at the super markets here because the local grocery stores further on are very limited.
Parc de la Gaspésie: The restaurant at the Gîte de Mont Albert is worth visiting for the best dining in the Gaspésie. At $39, the menu is a good value for a first class dinner by French standards. Due to limited seating, a reservation is required for dinner. After a day of backcountry skiing, it is at least worth a stop to have drink in the wood-paneled bar and sit by the hot fire. The hotel is tolerant of skiers just down from the mountain, just like restaurants in France.
Mont-Saint-Pierre: The motels serve a budget meal oriented towards snowmobilers. There is a small grocery store.
Mont Louis: There is an épicerie (takes only cash, closes at 5:30pm) with the most extensive selection outside Sainte-Anne-des-Monts. L'Eau à La Bouche serves best cuisine in the region and La Broue Dans l’Toupet offers nice meals in a coffee shop atmosphere.
Gaspé: The Cafe des Artists provides a great breakfast and serves other meals as well. Don’t miss the Resto-pub Le Brise Bise on Rue de la Reine. This town of 40,000 has a full range of facilities, including large grocery stores.
Percé: There is a modest épicerie, but you might as well eat in the motel restaurants.
Matane: There is a full selection of supermarkets and a Wall Mart.
Weather
Weather broadcasts by Environment Canada on frequencies compatible with US receivers can be picked up along the coast.
Internet weather sites are also useful.
Guide Services
François Roy runs a guide service for skiing and ice climbing out of Matane, but he is routinely booked for the season.
François is the only guide in the Gaspé. Although he is a exceptionally talented rock and ice climber, his primary business is guiding backcountry skiing. He knows the best powder stashes in the area, and maintains a heated high country tent out of which his clients ski.
Phone: 418-737-4983
Email: froy1@globetrotter.net
Web: http://www.vertigo-aventures.com
Climber Information & Partners
Julie Ruest works in the area of Gaspé tourism development and she is an ice climber. Contact her in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts for local information, including finding partners. She can help you better enjoy your trip while you help her with suggestions for improving climber and skier tourism.
Email: julie.cidtg@globetrotter.net
Work: 418-763-5152, ext 22
Events
Rendez-Vous De La Montagne, March 25-26th 2006, at Mont-Saint-Pierre. A week-end of ice climbing and mountaineering courses, workshops, conferences. For details see http://www.rdvmontagne.com/ (french) or contact Julie Ruest directly.
The Téléfestival brings together telemark skiers at Parc du Mont Comi near Rimouski during the 3rd week in February.
Internet
Rimouski: The Comfort Inn on 132 has free WIFI internet (accesible from the parking lot).
Matane: The Quality Inn on 132 has WIFI Internet access for guests.
Sainte-Anne-des-Monts: The public library offers Internet access via their computers, no WIFI.
Mont Louis: On the east side of town there is an Internet Cafe with WIFI. The connection is quite fast and suitable for uploading images.
Gaspé: The Cafe des Artistes has a WIFI net.
Percé: The Fleurs de Lys Motel has Internet for guests.
Laundry
Sainte-Annes-des-Monts: There is a laundromat across from the super market on the road descending from the park.