Chipotle Chicken



Jacob bought a book recently called “Discover Rhode Island: An AMC guide to the best Biking Hiking and Paddling.” Ever since, we have been taking short excursions in the evenings - hiking the trails of southern RI and gearing up for longer backpacking, camping and kayaking trips later in the summer. Our woodsy amblings have been beautiful and invigorating, but they don’t leave much time for cooking. By the time we get home, it’s usually close to 9 and we’re famished. Harried dinner preparation ensues.

I bring this up because last minute cooking encourages short cuts, and the one I (somewhat ashamedly) used last night was serendipitous indeed. I’ve been on a Mexican kick lately, and was bent on making a chili-lime spiced grilled chicken. I had forsight enough to start the chicken marinating before I left for work in the morning, but had not planned for the sauce. My recipe-of-choice called for rehydrating dried ancho chilies and then blending them into a creamy sauce to top the chicken – a process that I am still eager to try, just not while in hiking boots and teetering at the edge of starvation. I opted instead for a bottled chipotle (chi-POTE-lay) sauce, mass produced for my convenience by Tabasco.

Chipotles and anchos seem to have a lot in common, making this substitution a likely success. They are both known for their smoky, sweet, almost chocolaty flavor and their relative mildness. On the Scoville scale - which measures spiciness by the level of capsaicin found in a pepper - both rank low. Capsaicin is a natural compound, concentrated in the veins and seeds of peppers, that stimulates your nerve endings and makes you think that you are in pain. Anchos contain about 1000 Scoville units; chipotles about 5000. They may give you a pleasant tingling about the lips. In comparison, habaneros, the world’s spiciest chili peppers, contain up to 400,000 Scoville units. At that level, your brain is so convinced that you are burning alive, that it releases large amounts of endorphins into your bloodstream, producing a vague sense of euphoria. Kind of like morphine. Capsaicin is serious stuff – even for brave explorers of southern RI.

So, chipotles. Chipotles are actually jalapeños that have been dried and smoked. In the process, they release their characteristic sharp, crisp, bright, acidic notes and reveal their deep, smoky, moody, mellow undertones. Translated literally, chipotle refers to any smoked chili pepper: the word derives from “chilpotle” in the Náhuatl language of the Aztecs, where “chil” meant hot pepper and “potle” came from poctli, meaning smoked. The word apparently was reversed somewhere along the line, as it originally was spelled pochilli. In any case, Tabasco was kind enough to dry, smoke, rehydrate and blend some jalapeños for me, so all I had to do last night was tip the bottle. Happy, happy day.

First I made some guacamole, because, well, what could be better? The chicken that had been marinating (in lime juice, soy sauce, veg oil, sugar, rosemary, oregano, chili, cayenne, and garlic) was slapped on a hot grill. I then mixed up some chipotle sauce with the lovely product mentioned above, more lime juice, mayo, brown sugar, rosemary, oregano, and cumin. I dipped a couple of corn chips in it to taste. Delicious. Creamy and smoky, quietly buzzing with spice, and fresh with lime. It went brilliantly with the chicken, which had taken on an almost carameled exterior on the grill, and together they produced a mouthwatering combination of sweet, tangy and spicy. Interspersed with cool munches of chips and guac, it was much-appreciated nourishment for two weary adventurers.

Posted: Fri - May 14, 2004 at 03:48 PM      


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