Section 9 - Vermillion Resort to Tuolumne Meadows View Photos June 14 12 miles--not a very productive hike. The ferry didn't leave Vermilion Valley Resort until 10 a.m. and I didn't resume the PCT until 11. There were two other hikers with me, Nathan and Frank, and we got further delayed by two difficult stream crossings. The second one required a climb up and over a waterfall to a meadow where the stream was passable. I helped Frank get his pack up the cliffside and was shocked by its weight. I'm glad I put a lot of effort into traveling light because I don't think my body could take that kind of stress. I left them there to make their own way and continued on alone. The hike over Silver Pass(10,900) was a tough, snowy slog and it took most of the day just to go the 9 miles up, over, and down the other side. I saw another black bear today along Mono Creek--not far from Lake Edison. It panicked and ran when it saw me but it was a joy to see. That makes 3 for the trip--including the black bear cub I saw on the day into Lake Edison. I hope to see more. I'm amazed by the grace of something so massive. My days off at Vermilion Valley were an exercise in gluttony. I consumed tens of thousands of calories and loved every bite. Steaks, chicken, fish, burgers, eggs, fries, salads, cereals, pancakes and bowls of chili were no match for my appetite. I tried to set the 2-day record for consumption and might have come close. Eating is a beautiful thing. It was fun to get to know Butch and Peggy Wiggs a little bit. Together they operate VVR's summer fishing and camping business. Butch is a jovial, barrel of a man with a handlebar mustache and a stomach to match. His wife, Peggy, is a slim, no-nonsense school teacher and business manager who keeps the whole show running amidst all the chaos of hikers, fishermen, and family campers. It's a fabulous place. The word "resort" is an amusing overstatement but for a hungry, dirty, and tired hiker it's a Sierra Shangri-La. Butch took me out on the lake where we hooked up his cell phone to his laptop to send and receive e-mail. It's the only way he can get a signal through to his Internet service provider in Fresno. "Next year," he says, "I'm getting a satellite phone." Some of my PCT hiker friends, Sven, Jarrod, and Jim showed up yesterday afternoon. It was good to see them. We spent the night in the hiker tent, sharing war stories until the wee hours. They're staying on to eat and recoup but I'm sure we'll connect up the trail. Tomorrow I will be more efficient. June 15 21 Miles. I made much better mileage today due to an earlier start and a little less snow. After a mostly level traverse past several half-frozen lakes, with great views back toward Silver Pass and the Silver Divide, I dropped into Red's Meadow on the back side of Mammoth Mountain Ski Area. I was looking forward to some fresh sandwiches and ice cream but the store had just opened for the season and was all but bare. I settled for some milk, a bag of Doritos, and a root beer. I called Cynthia and found out that she can't meet me for another day and a half after our planned rendezvous. Bummer. I'm disappointed but she has a job interview and I hope it goes well for her. After a long break I finally mustered up the motivation to continue. The trail crossed the San Joaquin River and continued up the other side. I looked down to see the basalt columns of Devil's Postpile glistening in the sun. The PCT bypasses the area--why I'm not sure--but I'd been there before and it was interesting to see the Postpile from a different angle. Three miles later I got stopped cold--literally--by the awesome flow of Minaret Falls. On the third crossing attempt I fell chest deep into the icy water and had to make camp immediately to dry off. Fortunately, my sleeping bag and spare clothes were in a waterproof stuff sack and stayed dry. I need to find a way across this stream or I'll have to backtrack to Red's Meadow. June 16 18 Miles. After searching downstream all the way to the San Joaquin, I did find a way across Minaret Falls. It again required a detour up and over the falls to a wide part of the river and a submerged log crossing. It cost me an hour but it was much better than backtracking. After a spectacular afternoon traverse, high above the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River, I hiked back up into the snow. The eye-popping views of the Ritter Range cloaked in white were unforgettable. At the end of the traverse I crossed the north wall of valley, climbed to frozen Thousand Island Lake, and then hugged the Ritter Range the rest of the day. I'm camped tonight in a small, snow-free area in the basin just below Donohue Pass. Tomorrow, Yosemite! I met an older couple today above Agnew Meadows who really lifted my spirits. They were out for a day hike and when I passed by they stopped me and asked me where I had come from and where I was going. When I told them my story their mutual excitement gave me renewed enthusiasm for this undertaking. June 17 16 Miles. I hiked into Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite early this afternoon. I've hiked 935 miles--over one third of the way. My feet and knees are a little sore but today is a big milestone for me. I'm happy and feel a real sense of accomplishment. The morning climb over Donohue Pass (11,100) was short and relatively easy. The snow was frozen and I only "postholed" a few times on the descent. I reached the beautiful Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River in about 2 hours and followed the river the final 10 miles into Tuolumne Meadows(8,600 feet). There's still snow here under the shady lodgepole pines but the meadow is open and both the tourist and mosquito seasons have commenced. I'm about to hitch down the hill into Lee Vining--next to spectacular Mono Lake--where Cynthia will meet me tomorrow afternoon. I'm really looking forward to sitting on a park bench and sleeping in a bed for the first time in 400 miles.