Section 5 - Wrightwood to Agua Dulce
May 16
22 miles--a long, beautiful walk down the spine of the
San Gabriels. I hiked on alone to the snowy summit of
Mt. Baden-Powell and had lunch at 9,400 feet--the highest
point on the Southern California PCT. The mountain is
named after Lord Baden-Powell, the founder of the Boy
Scouts. There were incredible views of the L.A. Basin,
the Mojave Desert, the San Bernardinos and San Jacintos,
the high peaks of the San Gabriels, and north to the Tehachapis.
If there had been less haze I would have seen the Sierras.
I had a nice day off and it was great to see James and
Jennifer. We drove up to the ski area and relaxed in the
sun. Two PCT hikers walked by, including Homebrew, who
I hadn't seen in nearly 3 weeks.
James and Jennifer took me out for a huge and delicious
salmon dinner washed down with an Oreo cookie ice cream
pie thing that was truly an out-of-body experience. This
morning they drove me back to the trail and Jennifer gave
me a big hug. I'd forgotten how much I missed that. If
she'd have given me another one I would have thought twice
about going back to the trail.
The new size 11 shoes and the "Superfeet" inserts
made a huge difference today. My feet are happy for the
first time in over 3 weeks.
I'm camped right on the trail tonight. It was the only
flat spot I could find in the fading light. I'm counting
on Lord Baden-Powell's troops to NOT trample me in the
night.
May 17
22 miles. I actually walked at least 27 miles but only
because I got off on a wrong trail and walked an extra
two hours out of my way. There are only two places on
the So. CA. PCT that I've been before this trip, Mt. Laguna
and 3 Points campground. I'd been looking forward to passing
3 Points campground today-- as sort of a milestone-- but
it proved to be my undoing. For miles prior to 3 Points
Campground, the PCT and the "Moccasin Trail"
were merged and had become one trail. Well, at the Campground
they split and I took the Moccasin Trail. I never saw
the split but had I read the guidebook I would have figured
it out long before I did. "*&^%$#@!" The
only thing I thought about the last two hours of the day
was that I should have already been in camp.
I ran into Shirt and Packrat late this afternoon as I
returned from my scenic detour. Neither I nor they expected
us to meet again until Agua Dulce.
The trail crisscrossed the Los Angeles Crest Highway--which
ascends into the mountains from just outside Pasadena--for
much of the day. The highway is blasted out of the ridge
and is often closed by rock and snow avalanches. I saw
very few cars but I did see a few psychotic motorcyclists
nearing death as they went through the turns.
I'm coming to the end of the San Gabriels. The ridgeline
is gradually dropping in elevation and the pines are giving
way to oaks and cacti. From my camp I can see the lights
from small towns and passing cars in the desert below.
May 18
21 Miles. The San Gabriels are just about done. I dropped
off the ridge late this afternoon and am just a few long
switchbacks from the valley floor. Most of the day was
spent walking the north side of ridges at about 5,500
feet. If I didn't know better I would have sworn I was
on the trails I trained on in the Santa Cruz Mountains.
Oaks, douglas fir, and even sequoia trees shaded the trail.
Through breaks and clearings I could clearly see the Tehachapis
bending eastward around the Mojave Desert. I'll be there
in a few days.
I'm spending the night at the North Fork Saddle Ranger
Station, about 12 miles above the town of Acton. The caretaker,
Todd, met me as I was crossing the road and ushered me
into his building where I had a hot shower, washed my
clothes, collected my e-mail, and cooked dinner on his
stove. This place used to be a fire station and has all
the amenities for a group of 5 but is now just a fancy
picnic area. He's paid to watch over the place but otherwise
has nothing much to do except be incredibly nice to hikers.
I feel very fortunate to be here.
Tomorrow I will walk to Agua Dulce for a food pickup
and a possible day off. I turned my ankle and have been
battling a lower leg sprain/strain for 3 days. If it were
not for copious amounts of "Vitamin I" (Ibuprofen)
I'm not sure I'd have made it to here. I'll just have
to see how it feels tomorrow.
May 19
19 miles and a day off in Agua Dulce to celebrate the
start of my 40th year. That's a scary thought. I also
need to RICE (rest, ice, compress, and elevate) my leg
for a day and psyche up for the last real desert section
of the PCT. I've hiked 450 miles from the Mexico border.
It doesn't feel real to me but that's what the guidebook
says.
Today certainly felt real. The temperature wasn't brutally
hot but the sun beat me down as I walked through the shadeless
scrub. I also had another rattlenake encounter this afternoon
that shook me up a bit. Just after the snake and I parted
ways the trail crossed under the Antelope Freeway through
a very long drainage tunnel and, in the near dark, I was
sure the snake's brother would be there to greet me. Fortunately
it wasn't but if I never see another rattlesnake it will
be too soon.
Agua Dulce sits in a colorful valley at the edge of Vasquez
Rocks State Park. It's a small town with large lots populated
by people who are willing to endure L.A. commuting hell
for life in the country. Vasquez Rocks is home to 1850's
badman Tiburcio Vasquez and Hollywood films, including
the Flintstones movies. Flintstones II is
currently under production and I saw the set as I walked
by. Remind me to miss that one when it comes out.
I'm staying the next two nights at a PCT hikers host
home. The owners, Donna and Jeff, take in any and all
PCT hikers and shower us with...well, showers... as well
as beds, laundry, kitchens, videos, phones, transportation
and just incredible kindness and generosity. The only
payment they get are the smiles and thankyous from the
astonished hikers. There are 8 of us here tonight and
we can hardly believe our good fortune.
Tomorrow I intend to eat and RICE. Thanks so much for
all the e-mail. More from the trail in a few days.
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