Section 2 - Warner Springs to Idyllwild
April 28
20 miles today and back to winter. I'm at 5,500 feet,
it's 34 degrees at 5 p.m., and the flakes are flying.
Brrrrr. I'm huddled in my bag watching it snow and hoping
it doesn't get too deep.
I spent last night at the Sunshine Summit Resort &
RV. It's 6 miles out of Warner Springs but when I called
them up and said I'd have to walk there the owner was
nice enough to come get me. He had never heard of the
PCT and was still sort of shaking his head when he dropped
me off this morning.
Dinner at the Sunshine Resort restaurant was classic.
The cast of characters included a truck driver, a prospector,
a tire store owner, a juvenile detention center worker,
a loud blond lady who refused to stop talking, two guys
in the kitchen whose elevators didn't go to the top floor,
and me--a bedraggled, bemused hiker reading e-mail in
the corner. It would have made a good play.
April 29
22 miles today--a new distance record for me. It was cold,
cloudy, and windy all day. Pretty good hiking weather
as long as I didn't stop.
It snowed 'till about 10 p.m. last night. I think it
only accumulated about 2 inches but the snow sliding off
the tent roof was almost a foot deep. There were a few
extreme wind gusts that had me worried but the tarptent
performed admirably and I stayed warm and dry.
I dropped out of snow country early this morning and
spent the rest of the day hiking through high desert hills
and dry canyon bottoms. For a while I crossed into Anza-Borego
Desert State Park and I could see Mt. Laguna looming in
the distance. Tomorrow I will cross the Pines-to-Palms
Highway and the Desert Divide. I then start my ascent
of the San Jacinto Mountains.
April 30
16 snowy, sloppy miles today. I woke up to the splat of
wet snow and it continued to snow until 4 p.m.
After fumbling with and fuming at my wet gear I didn't
get on the trail until after 9 a.m. All the brush was
coated in slush and, despite my poncho, I got soaked.
Then I took a wrong trail and lost an hour and 3 miles
of my day. "@#$%&*!" I think the wildlife
learned some new words today.
As I climbed higher into the San Jacintos the snow got
deeper and there were a few anxious moments when I lost
the trail in the snow. Finally the storm broke and I caught
glimpses of both the knife ridge I was walking and the
desert far below. I found my way down to a snow-free clearing
and promptly parked. It's 33 degrees at 6,000 feet and
I'm warm in my bag.
Shirt and Packrat just walked by in the near dark and
camped a few feet away. They did the smart thing and holed
up until the snow abated. Some day I'll learn.
Tomorrow I walk to Idyllwild for a food resupply and
a day off. I'm dirty, my stuff is wet, and my body needs
a rest. Despite--or maybe because of--today's mishaps,
this is a great experience.
May 1
16 more snowy, slippery miles. At least the sun came out
for a while. I walked the spine of the San Jacintos and
had incredible views of Palm Springs and the desert below.
While walking through knee-deep snow I thought about what
it would be like down there laying around by the pool.
At 9000 feet the snow was several feet deep and the fog
was pea-soup thick. Just then, 3 backpackers from Idyllwild
appeared out of the mist and I was able to follow their
tracks all the way down the mountain.
Idyllwild at last! I'm dining on steak, baked potato,
corn muffins, French onion soup, Pyramid Ale (on tap),
and cheesecake. Ah, it's good to be alive. Across the
street I spy a market--more
food!
I'm going to hang here for a couple of days to rest the
body and soul. Or maybe feed the body and soul. OK, both.
Thanks to everyone for all the e-mail. It's great to
come out of the wilderness and have mail waiting for me.
I'm 1/15 of the way!
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