Section 1 - Campo to Warner Springs
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April 21
Finally, the moment has arrived. What a great day to start
the trip--perfect 70 degree hiking weather. Cynthia and
her mom took me to Campo and we drove out a dirt road
to a low hill with a lone monument marking the start of
the PCT. The Mexican border lay just a few feet away and
Border Patrol officers were everywhere. I walked away
with a mixture of fear and excitement as Cynthia and Sally
waved good-bye.
I walked 12 miles or so in 4 hours. The streams were
filled and I saw many flowers and flowering shrubs. I
passed 6 people who were struggling with packweight and
general conditioning. I'm glad now that I put in the time
to get ready for this walk.
April 22
20 miles today. I broke camp at 8 a.m. in cool, foggy
weather--what a change from yesterday. I had a pleasant
2 1/2 hour walk to Lake Morena with great views of the
lake, though somewhat obstructed by clouds. After reaching
Lake Morena State Park, I walked down the street and had
breakfast at the general store/malt shop. The proprietess
reminded me so much of Katherine Hepburn in "On Golden
Pond." Morena Village is really charming. It would
be a nice spot for a summer or retirement home.
After a leisurely breakfast and an e-mail check I headed
north, stopping in Boulder Oaks for water and a snack,
and arrived here in Fred Canyon at 5 p.m. The weather
really deteriorated this afternoon with 40-degree temperatures,
high winds, and light rain. The only hiker I saw today
was someone who left the border a day and a half before
me.
This is beautiful country. It's much greener and prettier
than I ever imagined.
April 23
16 miles. It's April 23 and snowing in the San Diego mountains.
I got to Mt. Laguna about 2 p.m. just as it started. All
the way up the peak I was in shorts and a t-shirt and
then the clouds rolled in and the white stuff started.
I got a late start today. I worried about things that
go bump in the night and didn't sleep well at all last
night. The morning started before 6 a.m. with footsteps
outside my tent and a face peering through the door. Out
of fear I yelled "Hello!" but the guy just put
his finger to his lips and said nothing. He and his companion
then took off down the trail. Judging from their uniforms
I'm pretty sure they were army rangers out on some kind
of patrol. Weird.
I picked up my first set of e-mails today at the Mt.
Laguna pay phone. It was great to hear from everybody.
Keep writing, it really gives me something to look forward
to at the town stops.
April 24
18 blustery and cold miles today. There was still snow
on the ground this morning and I wore all my clothes for
several hours on the trail. It feels much more like January
than late April. I camped last night with 2 other hikers,
Packrat and Shirt (their trail names--an eastern tradition--born
on the AT), and we played tag all day along the trail.
The path followed a high ridgeline along the Laguna Crest
for the first 10 miles with stupendous views of the desert
floor though I caught only fleeting glimpses through the
fog.
I'm now perched on a windswept saddle overlooking Anza-Borego
State Park. It was too windy to put up my tent so I crawled
under the chaparral and found a flat spot for my bag.
Tomorrow is a short day--10 miles. Cynthia is meeting
me at the highway 78 crossing and taking me to Julian
for the night.
April 26
17 brutal miles today. This is one of the toughest sections
of the PCT because of the desert heat and the lack of
shade or water. Because of a dispute with landowners across
the valley, the Forest Service routed the trail through
the San Felipe Hills instead of along the cooler coastal
ridge. Fortunately it was only in the 80's today instead
of 100 but it was bad enough. Ughh. Another 17 or so tomorrow
to Warner Springs and then back into the mountains the
day after.
April 27
16 miles. I made it to Warner Springs early this afternoon
and completed section 1. I have now walked 110 miles or
about 1/25 of the way. It feels good to put the first
hundred behind me.
So far I'm holding up though my feet aren't so sure. I
need to do a better job taping, powdering, or otherwise
encouraging them to like the heating, sweating, and pounding
they get from the trail. Hey fellas--no pain, no gain.
I had a nice hike today, especially in comparison to
yesterday. I left the desert behind and the walking was
much cooler. I hiked through wonderful open vistas, meadows
and streams. In Warner Springs, I caught up to Shirt and
Packrat after not having seen them for several days and
we commiserated about the San Felipe Hills. I'm sure the
stories will get better every year.
Warner Springs--population
200--is a real one-gas-station town. There is, however,
a post office and I picked up my food box for the next
4 days to Idyllwild. There's also a golf resort, of sorts,
and the clubhouse makes a nice oriental chicken salad.
I hear the clubhouse also has a "members only"
bathroom with a shower but I...uh...wouldn't know anything
about that.
On to Idyllwild!
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