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Scandinavia 2006

The trip

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Day 15: Grimstad - Risør - Skien

I followed the costal road and found several nice little towns, but Risør was by far the best and well worth a new visit.

What they write:

Risør - one of Europes best kept wooden house towns, is an attractive area for both natives and tourist alike, all through the year. Few people that have an interest in Norway as a holiday resort can ignore the charming small wooden town with it’s white painted houses. As summer reaches it’s peak so multiplies the towns population. Which in turn fills the intimate small roads and alleys with people, making the town bustle with life. 
Whether you come by car, boat, bus or bike you will find that little extra experience, especially for you. To get the most out of your visit perhaps you should sit fore a while by the water in the harbour eating a bag of freshly cooked shrimps, that have been locally caught a couple of hours earlier of the coast of Risør. Alternatively you can enjoy a glass of cold beer at one of the outdoor restaurants, while the sun does it’s best to give you a tan that will compete with any tan you may get sunbathing of the coast of the Mediterranean.

Skien was BTW the worst I have seen during my trip, but only had to use it for the hotel, which was actually rather nice. The hotel was part of Thon Hotels. If you plan to visit Scandinavia, buy yourself a Skanplus hotel pass for 90 Norwegian Krone and you get a huge discount in every Thon hotel (about 170). And I found all Thon hotels I visited rather OK to very good.

Next, back to Amsterdam

Day 14: Stavanger - Grimstad

The city of Stavanger was established as a municipality January 1, 1838 (see formannskapsdistrikt). The rural municipalities of Hetland and Madla were merged with Stavanger January 1, 1965.

The city is located on a peninsula on the southwest coast of Norway. It is the centre of the third largest metropolitan area in the country. The climate is maritime mild temperate(marine west coast - cfb) and rather windy, with all monthly temperature averages above freezing, and precipitation 1200 mm/year. Summers are pleasant and lowland areas in and around Stavanger have the longest growing season in Norway (220 days).

The city is a combination of new and old. There is a significant foreign influence with a nearby NATO base called JWC, as well as foreign oil interests. Norway's oldest Cathedral, Stavanger domkirke, is situated right in the city centre. Stavanger has several beautiful lakes, which are popular recreation areas. Breiavatnet is located in the heart of Stavanger, while Mosvatnet and Stokkavatnet are situated right outside.

Stavanger Airport is located 14 km from the city centre, in the municipality of Sola.

Stavanger Oil Museum

The Norwegian Petroleum Museum was opened on 20 May 1999 and its unusual architecture has made it a new, exciting landmark in the Port of Stavanger.

Although I am out of the higher mountains now, actually it is a very pleasent trip close to the see with many smaller fishing towns. I had a look at the most southern part of Norway with a perfect lighthouse, the Lyndesnes fyr.

Grimstad was my town for the night.

Day 13: Pulpit Rock

In any brochure about Norway and the fjords you see at least one picture of this Rock.

From Wikipedia

Preikestolen or Prekestolen, also known by the English translations of Preacher's Pulpit or Pulpit Rock, and by the old local name Hyvlatonnå, is a massive cliff 604 metres above Lysefjorden, opposite the Kjerag plateau, in ForsandNorway. The top of the cliff is approximately 25 by 25 metres, square and almost flat, and is a famous tourist attraction in Norway.

In 2006 approximately 90,000 people took the 6-km hike to Preikestolen in the four summer months making it one of the most visited natural tourist attractions in Norway.

There is trail from the Pulpit Rock lodge through different mountain landscapes. A trip to Preikestolen from the closest car park and Norwegian Mountain Touring Associations-staffed refuge Prekestolhytta takes about 3-4 hours for a round trip hike. The parking facility and hut are about 1 hours from Stavanger city by ferry and car.

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Map of the way up to the Preikestolen

The walk to Preikestolen is partly very steep. The path starts at the Preikestolhytta Youth Hostel at a height of approximately 270 metres, and climbs to 604 metres. The trip is estimated to 2 hours, but that is with children and/or many pauses. It can be completed in 1 hour by experienced hikers. Even though the height difference is only 330 metres, and on the map the trip is only 3.8km (each way), the actual hike is much more as the path goes up and down various ridges.

A granite sculpture of the cliff is erected in Forsand's Danish twinningLangeskov.

Although you can view it from a charter in the fjord I decided to walk / climb all the way, not knowing the danger and exhaustion doing it.

It is a 4,5 km walk as they say, but actually it is climbing from 270 to 604 meters and in the time you climb at least twice the height as you descent many times. But what a view from the top …. stunning is the only word to describe it. My pictures can not show what it looked like up there. Up is 2 hours, down is 2 hours but worse as you can not walk, climb, stumble to fast as this is rather dangerous.

Ater a good 5 hours I went on the longest ferry, 40 minutes till Stavanger, a very pleasent and to my opinion one of the nicest cities in Norway. 

Day 12: Bergen - Hardangerfjord

I left rainy Bergen and traveled to the Hardangerfjord. 

From Wikipedia

With a length of 179 km (111 miles), the Hardangerfjord in the county of Hordaland in Norway is the third largest fjord in the world and the second largest in Norway. The surrounding district is calledHardanger.

The Hardangerfjord starts at the Atlantic Ocean just south of Bergen (SW Norway). Here the fjord penetrates in a north easterly direction until it meets the grand mountain plateau of Hardangervidda. The longest branch of the Hardangerfjord is Sørfjorden which cuts south about 50 km from the main fjord. Its maximum depth is more than 800 m (2,624 ft) just outside Norheimsund in the middle of the fjord.

About 10,000 years ago the Scandinavian land mass started to rise up as enormous glacial ice started to melt. The lower parts of the valleys became flooded, and so created what we today know as the Hardangerfjord. The valley was originally not only made through glacial erosion but by the high pressure melting water which pushed its way beneath the ice.

On the Folgefonn peninsula which belongs to the Hardangerfjord, the third largest glacier in Norway is found. With its three parts, the Folgefonn glacier covers an area of 220 km² (85 sq mi), and is an area which in 2005 became protected as a national park.

The history of the fjord goes far beyond its Viking history, back to the time of hunters on the surrounding mountains, and later on, farming along this fertile area which today is considered the fruit orchard of Norway. Later the fjord became the birthplace for a large tourism influx to Norway, and in 1875 Thomas Cook started weekly cruise departures from London to the Hardangerfjord, due to its spectacular nature, glaciers and grand waterfalls. Soon after this many of the major waterfalls became the power source for large industries in fjord settlements such as Odda.

Today the Hardangerfjord is witness to a renaissance in tourism and new infrastructure for travellers has once again become an industry for the local communities along the fjord.

The fjord has good conditions for fish farming. Fish farms yearly produce more than 40.000 tons of salmon and rainbow trout (2002) and makes the Hardangerfjord one of four major fish farming regions in the world.

The contemporary fjord is divided among the 13 municipalities BømloEidfjordEtneGranvinJondalKvamKvinnheradOddaSundSveioTysnes,Ullensvang and Ulvik. The total number of inhabitants for all these municipalities is only a bit more than 70 thousand - on a total area of 8,471 km².

I took an almost daily ferry and ended in a treasure. Once in a while you find these places.

Lakseslottet Salmon Castle in Lindum is a perfect place to come to rest. I almost passed it but returned and checked in this perfect hotel. There were only a few more guests but what a host. Although there was no cook available the manager cooked me a perfect meal and also unlocked the only TV to see Germany - Italy. I met several other Norwegians who told me where to go for my few days. Overall a very pleasant experience like I had in the Christmas Inn in New Hampshire and the Lobster Shack in Nova Scotia. 

Day 11: Lom - Bergen

The first part again was spectacular, going up a scenic highway for several hours and viewed many of the highest mountains of Norway. It was also the day I saw many Dutch. Seems this is an area many Dutch tourists visit, I can understand why. In general I do not see a lot of tourists, if many Dutch and some Germans.

The second part of the day was one of the worst. Although my visit to the very old wooden church of Borgund was rather nice, it started to rain again and from there to Bergen it was dark, darker and darkest as I had to pass many, many tunnels in the rain.

From Wikipedia

Borgund stave church (Borgund stavkyrkje) is a stave church located in LærdalNorway. It is classified as a triple nave stave church of the so-called Borgund-type. This is also the best preserved of Norway's 28 extant stave churches. It was probably built in the end of the 12th century, and has not changed structure or had a major reconstruction since that date.

The church site shows evidence of a previous building, which can point to an earlier church or perhaps an old pagan temple that had been taken into use as a church. The interior of the church, except for the pulpit and the altarpiece, is mainly free from the post-Reformation decorations seen in most other stave churches. An authentic medieval square-shaped baptismal font made of soapstone is still a part of the interior.

Several runic inscriptions are found on the walls of the church, one reads: Tor wrote these runes in the evening at the St. Olav’s Mass.

Borgund stave church is owned by Fortidsminneforeningen (The Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments).

There is a replica of the Borgund stave church in Rapid CitySouth DakotaUSA.

I ended up in the Radisson SAS hotel in the center of Bergen and that is something you should financially not do to often.

In Bergen it is said to rain 250 days a year and guess what ….. 

From Wikipedia

Bergen  is a city, a municipality, and a former county, in the county of Hordaland, Norway.

The city of Bergen was separated from Hordaland as a county of its own in 1831. It was established as a municipality January 1, 1838 (see formannskapsdistrikt). The rural municipality of Bergen landdistrikt was merged with Bergen January 1, 1877. The rural municipality of Årstad was merged with Bergen July 1, 1915. The rural municipalities of ArnaFanaLaksevåg and Åsane were merged with Bergen January 1, 1972. Bergen lost its status as a separate county the same date.

Bergen was the largest city in Norway until 1840 (when it was passed by Oslo). The city is divided into 8 boroughs: ArnaBergenhusFanaFyllingsdalenLaksevågYtrebygdaÅrstad and Åsane.

The city is located on the south-western coast of Norway, in the county of Hordaland, with its center situated between a group of mountains known collectively as de syv fjell ("the seven mountains"), although the number of mountains is a matter of definition. The first to name them "the seven mountains" was Ludvig Holberg, inspired by the seven hills of Rome. Bergen is recognized as the unofficial capital of the region known as West Norway, and also recognized and marketed as the gateway city to the world famous fjords of Norway and for that reason it has become Norway's largest – and one of Europe's largest cruise ship ports of call. Furthermore, Bergen's inter-municipal harbour is by far Norway's largest port and also one of Europe's largest ports according to the inter-municipal company Port of Bergen.[1]

Time magazine named the city one of Europe's 14 "secret capitals" (August 2004), where Bergen's capital reign is acknowledged within maritime businesses and activities such as aquaculture and marine research, with the Institute of Marine Research (IMR) (the second-largest in Europe) as the leading institution. Bergen is also the main base for the Royal Norwegian Navy (at Haakonsvern) and its international airport Flesland is the main heliport for the huge Norwegian North Sea oil and gas industry, from where thousands of offshore workers commute to their work places onboard the many oil and gas rigs and platforms.

Bergen was one of nine European cities honoured with the title European City of Culture in 2000.[2]

Day 10: Sundalsøra - Lom

The best day until now. I left Sundalsøra early and had 3 very special treats to go. The first part was a very nice mountain area, but the Trollstigveien was most spectacular. This is north of the Geirangerfjord and had only eleven turns to get up all the way but these are very spectacular, especially for busses. The road is so narrow and so steep that it is very difficult to pass or to turn. Meaning the busses had to go back and forth to get up or down. In your own car this was a terrifying sight as they came down again and very close to your own car. On top the panoramic view was rather spectacular with many mountains and waterfalls in close range.

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From there I went to the Geirangerfjord, one of the most visited, especially by many cruiseships but also from the car and from the many panoramic viewing places it was a perfect afternoon. Geiranger itself though was way to busy with tourists, mostly older ones, that I had to travel to Grotli which is on top of a mountain and from there took a steep and long road to Lom where my day ended.

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As said the best day so far. 

Posted on Sunday, July 2, 2006 at

Day 9: Rondane - Trondheim - Sundalsøra

I am now in Trondheim, as north as I will go and from here will go south again exploring hopefully many scenic fjords and many spectacular panoramas.

Trondheim

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From Trondheim, which I think is OK, but by far no the best city to visit, I traveled several hours south and ended up in Sundalsøra. To say the least it was not the best night I had. In this region it is not getting dark it night these months and if there are also many drunk people commung out of a bar behaving badly you can understand how I felt. But the next day had many special things coming up ……

Day 8: Olympic Dreams

I ended up in Lillehammer (1994 Olympics) and although my personal goal not will be to compete in the next Olympics, I am planning to go to China (see also clock below at this page), I stayed almost 500 meters from the Olympic sky ramp.

From Lillehammer I drove to Hamar to see the Olympic ice-skating arena which is actually built in a turn around Viking ship and is rather nice. In the winter it should be even nicer … 

In the afternoon I passed a very scenic highway at high altitude and that gave me some of the most scenic views I ever had. I ended up again high on the mountain in the Rondane national park area where I stayed in a very nice small hotel with a very nice atmosphere.

Day 7: Oslo

Today I am visiting Oslo and already had a Fjord tour and visited the Nobel Peace Center with all Nobel price winners listed.

Today it is a beautiful day and I think Oslo is one the most beautiful cities I have ever seen, the scenery is breathtaking. I will not stay to long though, because I have to travel a long way and found out the average speed is rather low.

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Day 6: Skärhamn - Oslo

From Skärhamn I drove along the Swedish Riviera to near Oslo.

At the border I had to stop and a rather nice blond Norwegian custom officer asked me many questions, checked the car for liquor (which is extremely expensive in Norway) and I even had to show some hotel reservations I made. I think it was their only special time of the day as there were only Norwegians and Swedish passing by. 

Day 5: Malmö - Götheborg - Skärhamn

Raining again ….


Going up north to Göteborg a rather nice city, have been there once before and ended in Skärhamn where I stayed in the same hotel again and had a perfect dinner again at.

I saw Brasil win from Ghana and although Skärhamn is rather small 10 Brasilian ladies were in the bar. 

Day 4: Roskilde - Gillele - Malmö

I started with visiting the Viking Shippet museum and the Dom where many late Danish Queens and King rest …

From Roskilde I went north to Gillele, a very nice fishing harbour.

Yesterday it was perfect weather, although rather hot, today it is raining cats and dogs all day …

The next stop was the Louisiana museum, which is remarkable not only for the collection but also for the scenery.

From there I tried to travel and find a hotel in Stockholm, no luck or way to expensive and therefore crossed to Malmö in Sweden and visited the Turning Torso, a very famous building by Calatrava. 

Day 3: Heerenveen - Schlesswig - Roskilde

I started my trip from my parent’s house in Heerenveen and went to Groningen after which many bikers blocked my views. They all came back from the Dutch Motor TT in Assen. It was a perfect day to drive, although in Germany rather busy.

My first stop was Schlesswig where I visited the Nijdam Boat and the Bordesholmer Altar.

From there I was planning to end in Flensburg but changed my plans and drove to Roskilde in Denmark. Roskilde is famous for the Roskilde Festival and the Viking Ship Museum, which I visited the next day. Although it was raining Cats and Dogs all day it is a very nice museum, well worth visiting. 

Day 2: Getting closer

The upcoming holiday is getting closer, so I am doing some planning. One is the trip by boat when getting back from Norway to Denmark. Today reserved the trip from Langesund (Norway) to Hirtshals (Denmark) and a hotel near by in Skien.

Day 1: The Plan

Well, it’s just a beginning of a plan. Travelling 5 countries (Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Germany and back to the Netherlands) and 4200 KM in 2 weeks

Day 1 Amsterdam Flensburg 612 
Day 2 Flensburg Kopenhagen 324 
Day 3 Kopenhagen Malmo
Goteborg 267 
Oslo 297 
Day 4 Oslo Oppdal 423 
Day 5 Oppdal Trondheim 121 
Day 6 Trondheim Alesund 300 
Day 7 Alesund Hornindal 110 
Day 8 Hornindal Bergen 314 
Day 9 Bergen Stavanger 180 
Day 10 Stavanger Kristiansand 247 
Day 11 Langesund Hirtshals (ferry)
Hirtshals Aalborg
Aalborg Arhus 186 
Day 12 Arhus Kiel 270 
Day 13 Kiel Amsterdam 552

(Copyright Hans Kok, 2005, 2006, 2007)