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Here's to you, Plum. | |
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"M Albert Roux, one of the foremost chefs of his generation, has most generously taken up the challenge of recreating recipes for four of Anatole's most frequently remembered dishes. M Roux founded Le Gavroche in 1967 with his brother Michel. Le Gavroche is one of the great restaurants in England, being the first UK restaurant to achieve the coveted 3 roses from Michelin." This introduction and recipes appeared in Wooster Sauce, the quarterly journal of The PG Wodehouse Society (UK), in 1999. I am proud to be able to present the recipes here. Noix de Ris de Veau Toulousaine **************************** Ingredients for 4 servings 900 grams of veal sweetbread 100 grams of butter 1 small carrot, peeled and chopped 1 small onion, peeled and chopped 1/2 small leek, chopped 1 clove of garlic, crushed 1 litre of chicken stock 200 millilitres of double cream 200 grams of coq combs 100 grams of coq kidneys 200 grams of white mushrooms, cleaned and sliced 1 small truffle 1 tablespoon of chives, chopped salt and pepper, to taste The Combs Using a needle, lightly prick the combs. Place the combs under running water for several hours until they are clean of blood. Place the combs in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to 45 °C. Drain and rub each comb with a tea towel with salt to remove the skin. Soak the combs again in cold water until they become white in colour. Cook them with 500ml of boiling chicken stock for 35 minutes. Remove from heat and leave to cool. Drain from the liquid when needed. The Sweetbreads Place the sweetbreads into a large pan and cover with cold water. Soak for 4 to 5 hours, changing the water from time to time. Blanch the sweetbread in boiling water for 5 minutes, refresh, drain and remove the skin and outer membrane. Place the sweetbreads between two tea-towels with a light weight on top. Keep cool. To Cook and Assemble the Dish In a saucepan, melt the butter, add the carrots, onions and leeks. Cook until pale golden. Add the crushed garlic and cook for one minute. Place the sweetbreads over the vegetables and cook them on both sides, but do not allow them to colour. Meanwhile, bring the chicken stock to a boil and pour over the sweetbreads. Season lightly and simmer for ten minutes. Remove the sweetbreads from the cooking liquid, cover with a damp cloth and keep warm. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve. Place in a saucepan and reduce by two-thirds. Add the double cream, bring to a simmer and cook until slightly syrupy. Add the sliced truffle, season to taste and keep warm. In the meantime, sauté separately the coq kidneys, combs and mushrooms with a little butter. Keep warm on a paper towel. Slice the sweetbreads and arrange in the centre of each plate. Divide and spoon the kidneys, coq's combs and mushrooms equally over each plate of sweetbreads. Spoon the sauce over and sprinkle each plate with chopped chive. * * * Timbale de Riz de Veau Toulousaine has the honour of being the dish of Anatole which was mentioned most frequently in the Jeeves and Wooster saga. After being listed as one of the constituent parts of the Dinner of Legend and Song in The Code of the Woosters, Aunt Dahlia threatened to deprive Bertie of the chance to taste a reprise in Jeeves Makes an Omelette. In Jeeves and the Feudal Spirit, Bertie wondered about the consequences of meeting Stilton Cheesewright after tasting the dish. ('It cannot ever, of course, be agreeable to find yourself torn into a thousand pieces with a fourteen-stone Othello doing a Shuffle Off To Buffalo on the scattered fragments, but if you are full at the time of Anatole's Timbale de ris de veau Toulousaine, the discomfort unquestionably becomes modified.') Kipper Herring showed his pleasure on being reassured that the dish was still in Anatole's repertoire in Jeeves in the Offing. Gussie complained to Bertie that one consequence of this being forced by Madeline Bassett to become a vegetarian was that he had to turn down the Timbales two nights in succession, and if it hadn't been for the presence of cold steak-and-kidney pie in the house this might almost have prepared Bertie for Gussie's elopement with the cook, Emerald Stoker. Finally, in Much Obliged, Jeeves, a sombre Bertie expressed his doubts that even the thought of the dish outweighed the presence at the dinner table of Spode, Madeline, Florence Craye and L P Runkle. Illustrations: Paul Cox. * * * These recipes are copyright The PG Wodehouse Society (UK) and M Roux, and must not be reproduced in any commercial form whatsoever without consent. Visitors to this site are asked to respect this request, as breaches will mean that articles such as this will no longer be given freely by their authors. |
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