Fri - July 16, 2004

Itokazu Keiko

Happily, Itokazu Keiko (a favorite of mine) won her bid to join the National Assembly in the July 11 elections. In her younger days she was a tour bus guide before becoming active in local politics to advance anti-military and pro-feminist policies. She stump speech, which I heard several times, hammered home protection of the Constitution (i.e., don't touch Article 9--the no-war clause--as Koizumi and his allies want to do), opposition to Koizumi's fiddling with retirement benefits, and of course reduction of bases in Okinawa. She's a very articulate, smart, and smartly dressed person (no doubt legacies of her bus guide days).

Posted at 08:44 AM       |

Great Lew Chew Artifacts

In Tsuboya, the old pottery district in Naha which now is full of pottery shops (the kilns having been moved to Yomitan in postwar because of pollution and space concerns), you can easily spend a bundle on really nice pieces of "Great Lew Chew [Ryûkyû] Artifacts." He may not remember it, but my buddy Alan Christy bought a tea pot made by National Living Treasure Kinjô Jirô at this particular shop. He could only afford one that had its spout chipped, however. For me, it was bulk in packing these rather than money per se that kept me from splurging. I stuck to a couple small pieces.

Posted at 08:34 AM       |

Spider

This is not an optical illusion or trick photography. This spider I happened upon at the Southeast Botanical Gardens was big enough to bag birds. Gigagross.

Posted at 08:27 AM       |

Thu - July 15, 2004

Pork

Did I mention that pork is the major meat in Okinawa. And that just about every part is used in Okinawan cuisine? Which makes it difficult to remain vegetarian or kosher or halal, if you're into that kind of thing. I'm not, so I'll eat any part that doesn't came from the deep insides. Mimigaa (pig ears) are sliced up thin and dressed in a kind of salad. Think hook shaped cross-section slices of jicama, except more translucent and crunchier.

Posted at 11:09 PM       |

HIV AIDS Sign

While walking back to my place one night I ran into this signboard urging the proper use of condoms to prevent STDs and advertising nationwide free HIV testing. At least Japanese are no longer overtly blaming foreigners for AIDS and are starting to respond more responsibly. Now, the real problem for Americans is that while you can find condoms of every stripe (literally) it's hard (so to speak) to find one comfortably sized...

Posted at 10:52 PM       |

Retro-intro-spective

Okay, so my plan for daily entries in Okinawa fell through mid-way because of busyness and fatigue and now I'm back in the U.S. of A, de-jetlagging at my mom's in Cerritos before heading back to Nashville. But, I'll think back and reconstruct the would-be entries. In fact, I wrote many in my head while falling off to sleep at the end of a long day. Browsing my photos will no doubt bring memories back. If not, I can always find some Reverse Osmosis Water that might help.
Overall, the trip was "successful." I do feel that if I hadn't had the conference to worry about and participate in, I could have done more, but that was a compromise to get an airfare paid. I did make some good connections, however, so even the conference had its upside.
Despite being eager to return finally, when I reflect back on just having been in Okinawa I do miss it already. It's easy to live there, with new interesting things popping up around you all the time. And of course there's the flipside problem of having to return to stupid America things (like Bush supporters).

Posted at 10:12 PM       |

Thu - July 8, 2004

She Makes, He Eats

Of course, she bought the rice cooker with his money, so why should he have to make it too? Since they are not pictured together enjoying the prepared rice, I guess she gets his leftovers afterwards.

Posted at 01:00 AM       |

Goo Cup

Would you eat one?

Posted at 12:43 AM       |

Wed - July 7, 2004

Goyaboy's Bench

If I could haul this back to Nashville I would and put it on the front porch (against Ruth's objections, no doubt).

Posted at 10:05 PM       |

Goyaboy's Farm

Across from the famous and solemn Himeyuri Memorial site there is the Himeyuri Goya Farm. Whatever the connection between the Himeyuri Student Nurses Corps and goya, I don't think goya were conscripted during the Battle of Okinawa to serve (or be served to) the Japanese Army.

Posted at 10:02 PM       |

Island Spirit...Not!

If the owners of this shop on Kokusai Street wanted to assert "island spirit" they probably should have named their shop "Island Spirit Infinite" instead of "Island Spirit Zero."

Posted at 09:54 PM       |

Goyaboy's Beer

Forget Asahi Super Dry--Goya-Dry rules. Too bad it's so expensive (¥500) because it taste real good. Goyaboy endorses it.

Posted at 09:50 PM       |

Sun - July 4, 2004

Katsuren Castle

This is the ruins of the castle (gusuku) where Awamari, lord (aji) of Katsuren, had his base until foolishly moving on Shuri Castle in the mid-15th century. He got his butt kicked and the castle has razed and never rebuilt. From the top you get a great view of the ocean and surrounding area.

Posted at 12:09 AM       |

Fri - July 2, 2004

I am . . . Goyaboy

Forget Spiderman--Goyaboy rules. After my interview with the Greenery folks was over I treated myself to a Goya Ice Cream and the Goyaboy T-shirt I stumbled into on Kokusai Street. It was made for me, so I ignored the price and bought it.

Posted at 11:57 PM       |

Wed - June 30, 2004

Tour Guide

I played tour guide today. Eric and Renée ditched the Coral Conference and I took them to the botanical gardens, Anpo no oka, and Yomitan's Restaurant Yuimaru and Yachimun no Sato. They were quite grateful for the tour, especially lunch (they treated) and the trip to the Pottery Village in Yomitan, which is quite nicely built up now. Much better access than before, and it boasts the most beautiful public restroom in Okinawa. One of the hillside kilns was being fired up at the time--pictured above is the uphill end of it.
At the end of the day I picked up Linda Angst and her daughter Maddie from the airport and took them to Isa-san's place in Shuri. I ended up with a free dinner (yakiniku kimchee) for my efforts.

Posted at 11:00 PM       |

Shuri Castle

Today ended up being a Shurijo day. After xeroxing a useful little report on efforts to survey and preserve the Japanese 32nd Army HQ tunnels that are under Shuri Castle Park, I decided to take the new monorail there and poke around some more. You can't see the tunnel openings any more, but there are ruins of bunkers the existed just outside one of the entrances.

Posted at 10:57 PM       |

Mon - June 28, 2004

Botanical Gardens

Sunday was flower day. After two days in the archives and hanging out with John Purves in Kin Town Friday night and Saturday, I had to get out into the fresh air. So, I made today "Hana no hi" and visited botanical gardens. The Southeast Botanical Gardens is one of the underrated tourist sites in Okinawa. It's a gorgeous, large, well-kept garden area packed with tropical and subtropical plants (most not native to the Ryukyus). They boast hundreds of palms, and, of course, a hibiscus garden, but that's just a few of the types there. The atmosphere is peaceful, unhurried, and, except for the occasional American jet taking off from nearby Kadena Air Base, it's quiet. I like the lotus ponds, where I took the above photo.

Posted at 11:23 PM       |

Yomitan

The Americans have invaded Toguchi Beach again. My visit to our old apartment in the Toguchi section of Yomitan was nostalgic, but I was saddened to see these brand new apartments built for U.S. military families next to the beach parking lot. As if the U.S. hasn't already taken all the prime land in Okinawa....

Posted at 11:20 PM       |

Sat - June 26, 2004