Here are a few tips, tricks and general advice for applying make-up that I have compiled from various sources in the industry. Remember, practice makes perfect, so practice your application and always blend well; the goal is not to have obvious edges of color. A good rule to remember is that lighter colors bring things forward and highlight, dark colors recede and add depth and shading.

Glenn's Resume can be viewed here.

Eyeliner
Position the brush, pencil, or applicator as close to the lash line along the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. As a general rule, do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the tear duct area of the eye. At first, keep the line as thin as possible, and if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire lash line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes.

Generally, the line along the lower lashes should be thinner and a less-intense color than the upper liner. Make sure that the two lines meet at the back corner of the eye. As a general rule, the larger the eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be.
For health reasons, avoid lining the rim of the eye.

How do I keep my eyeliner from smudging?
Eyeliner smudging is pretty much inevitable. The eyes are naturally moist, and moisture along with laughing, blinking, sneezing and rubbing our eyes (all very human activities) ruins makeup! Avoid using too much moisturizer around the eye; it will travel and convert liner into mush -- not a bad look in a sultry rock-star way, but probably not the look you're going for. Try an eye gel in lieu of eye cream. Look for one that absorbs quickly and be sure to give it a couple of minutes before applying makeup.
Using a Q-tip, trace a line of neutral-colored matte powder or eye shadow around the circumference of the eye as a base on which you'll place the eyeliner.
- back to the top ^




Mascara
Use of a lash curler is recommended. It makes you look more awake, adds glamour and makes your lashes look much longer. It is best to use a good brand such as the Tweezerman and only use them it on clean lashes, before you apply mascara. Squeeze gently with even pressure for about 10-12 seconds about two to three times at different points to even results and not get a crimped look. Apply mascara to the upper lashes using long, sweeping strokes, holding your upper lip up with the other hand’s index finger. Be sure to begin as close to the lash root as possible and brush up and out. A metal mascara comb works best between coats to remove clumping and give definition.

To add Power and thickness, dip a clean Q-into some powder and onto the lashes and then reapply mascara.
Without returning wand to tube, apply mascara to the lower lashes by holding the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes (using the tip of the wand).
- back to the top ^




Lipstick and Lip Liner
A Lip brush or pencil is optional. Use a lip pencil to draw an edge when applying lipstick, and a lip brush to control your application. A standard tube of lipstick makes too wide a mark for some lips and too narrow a mark for others. If your lips are small, it is best to use a lip brush; if your lips are large, the only reason to use a lip brush is to improve your accuracy, especially with deeper shades such as red.
Line the actual shape of your mouth. Do not use corrective techniques that make the mouth look larger or longer, especially for daytime makeup--it almost always looks like a mistake.
- back to the top ^

Blush
One of the easiest ways to get a healthy look is with blush -- unfortunately, it is often misused. Here is the correct and easy way to apply blush: First, start with a good quality blush brush. You can accentuate your face and cheeks naturally. Smile and you will see the fleshy part that stands out the most; this is the apple of your checks. This is your starting point for applying your blush. Apply a light layer of blush to the apples of your cheeks and blend up and back toward your hairline.

TIP: Tap off the excess blush from your brush before applying to your face. Do not blow on the bristles or you will put bacteria from your mouth on to the brush. Compact size blush brushes are too small and the bristles are not shaped properly. Once again, use a good quality brush.
TIP: To find the perfect color blush for your skin, look at your cheeks after you have exercised. That is what your natural blush color should look like.
- back to the top ^





EYEBROWS
They say that your eyes are the windows to your soul. If that's true, then your eyebrows should be beautiful window treatments. The eyebrows are the most important feature in defining the face. The trick to applying a natural eyebrow shape is using a stiff, short haired brush, and working with colorations instead of pencils. Pencils can be used, but it takes practice and patience to get a natural look.

The first step is tweezing. Start by thinning the eyebrow, and then slowly begin to define the arch. The arch should reach the highest point above the middle of your iris. Thin from that point out. The brows are the frames of your eyes. Don't be afraid to tweeze your eyebrows - BUT NEVER SHAVE YOUR EYEBROWS. Spend your money on a good pair of tweezers.

The general rule of determining the shape of your eyebrow is to hold a pencil vertically alongside your face to the point where the pencil meets your eyebrow. That is the natural starting point. Tweeze the stray hairs between the two starting points. The end point is found by angling the pencil past the outer corner of your eye. Remove stray hairs beyond that spot, and from below your natural arch.

The shape and grooming of your eyebrows will make your eyes look bigger and open up your face more naturally then wearing a lot of makeup. Be careful, as heavy brows will overpower your face. Shape your eyebrows by tweezing the hairs from underneath, not from above.

TIP: Tweeze after a shower and it will be less painful. Most people have a good natural shape; it just needs to be defined better.
TIP: Take the color that is the closest to your eyebrow color and fill in the gaps to make a nicely groomed brow. If in doubt, always go a little lighter than your brow.

Six Steps to Perfect Brows

1. Brush brows upward. Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Be careful not to take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.

2. Look closely at the shape. Your brow should begin above your tear duct, peak at the outer edge of your iris and end at the outer corner of your eye. Many women make the mistake of taking off too much at the outer corners, This slants the brows upward and makes the person look perpetually angry. They should be level or horizontal at both ends.

3. Prep your skin: Put some astringent on a cotton ball and wipe it across your nose, forehead, cheeks and behind your ears.

4. Hold a pencil in line with the outer side of your iris and note where the peak of your arch naturally occurs. From the arch to the outer corner of the eye, your brow should fall in a straight or slightly curved line, depending on the look you're trying to achieve.

5. Hold the tweezers at a 45-degree angle and pluck the stray hairs below the brow line. Pull in the direction of the hair growth, or you may end up breaking the hair mid-shaft. Follow your natural brow shape — not the trends. It's very difficult to let your brows grow back into their natural shape after you've plucked them to death trying to achieve a particular look.

6. Fill in sparse areas with a freshly sharpened brow pencil. Use light, quick strokes to draw in hair. Brow powder will give thin brows overall definition and is great for a more natural look. Using a brow brush, sweep some powder up and outward over the brows. If you're a brow novice, a tinted brow gel is a foolproof way to keep brows in place. Lightly coat the brows using upward and outward strokes. Wipe off any excess and allow it to set.

What to do if...
You've Plucked too much
And over-plucking are common problems and unfortunately ones that take time to correct. Let the hair grow in for a month or so before you pick up the tweezers. In the meantime, fill in any bare spots with powder that matches or is one shade darker than your brows. The powder's coverage is lighter than a pencil, but it will keep brows from looking too harsh.

You have Thin ends
To fix this problem, you need to balance out each side of the brow. Fill in brows starting at the middle of the arch and work your way toward the end.

Your brows are too short
Brows that end at the arch can make your eyes look smaller. Starting at the arch, draw in the remainder of the brow just along the brow bone. Be sure to use pencil the same color as your brows, or it will look unnatural.

Your brows are unshapely
Badly shaped brows often happen when you make a mistake and keep plucking to correct it. Place a brow stencil over your brow and line up the edges. Brush powder onto brows and remove the stencil. Carefully tweeze away any hair outside the new shape.

You've waited too long to tweeze
When eyebrows become bushy and unruly, it's tempting to just tweeze away with reckless abandon. Instead, trim first, and then brush them back into place. You should start to see their natural shape. Carefully pluck the stray hairs underneath the arch and anything else outside the natural brow line. Never pluck from above.

Waxing vs. Tweezing
While both methods can produce beautifully shaped brows, waxing is best left to the professionals. One wrong drop of wax and you can take off half of an eyebrow, and it may not grow back properly. Waxing is also not advised for women who have sensitive skin, sunburn or use Retin-A and other prescription creams.

That being said, if you've never touched your brows, it may be worth your while to invest in a visit to the salon for a consultation and preliminary waxing. Once the aesthetician has shaped your brows, you will be able to maintain them at home. Well-groomed brows are the basis of any great face.
- back to the top ^

EYESHADOW
Rule # 1 about eye shadow; when you look at a woman's face, you see her eyes not her eye shadow. The general rule is that light shades, bring out your eyes, darker shades give them dimension. If you have small eyes and want to give the impression of larger eyes, you want to stay with lighter shades. If you have large eyes or protruding eyes, you would want to use darker shades. To prevent shadow from creasing, put foundation on your lids first, and then powder. This gives you a clean canvas for your colorations.

The first step of applying eye shadow is to apply a light color over your entire eyelid from lash line to brow. Use a large flat eye shadow brush. Always use good quality brushes.

The second step is to apply a medium shadow color on your lower lid from lash line to the crease of your eye. Use a fluff brush.

The third step is to use your darkest color as a liner and apply along your lash line. To insure shadow will not flake, dampen your eyeliner brush before applying shadow. This will make it last longer.

An important fact to remember is, use colors that blend together naturally. It's not where you place the colors: it's that they work together and blend together invisibly.
TIP: You do not want this to look like three separate colors.
- back to the top ^





Application techniques for various eye shapes

Wide-Set Eyes
Wide-Set Eyes...are more than one eye-length apart.
Your Goal: Make your eyes look closer together by emphasizing the inner third of the eye.
Line: Starting at the inner corners, line the eye completely, top and bottom.
Accent: Apply light shade on the outer 2/3 of the lid, lashes to browbone, brushing towards the outer corners.
Define: Sweep your deep color on the inside third of the lid, brushing towards the inner corner of eyes. Shadow from lashes to just below the browbone. Blend edges into the light shade to get a soft gradation of color.

For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Center a little highlighter just under the brow in the middle of the eye.
Brows & Lashes: Accent color a little heavier at the beginning of brows. Don't extend brow color beyond your natural line. Apply lashcolor evenly on upper and lower lashes, with an extra coat or two on the lashes closest to the inner corner of the eye.

Deep-Set Eyes
Deep-Set Eyes ... are recessed or shadowed by a prominent brow bone. Lids may be hidden and the eyebrows appear close to the eyes.
Your Goal: Make the eyes look more open, less recessed.
Line: Using a fine line, outline upper and lower lids evenly.
Accent: Sweep light color over the entire lid, lashes to brows.
Define: Stroke your deep shade just ABOVE (not in) the eye's natural crease. Blend lightly at the edges to soften. This brings the lid portion 'forward' optically.

For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Brush a little highlighter in and along the lid crease. Do not blend.
Brows & Lashes: Raise the plane of the brow line by skimming brow color lightly along the tops of brows. Since pale brows make eyes look even more recessed, select brow color a shade or two darker than your natural tone. Mascara top and bottom lashes lavishly.

Prominent Eyes
Prominent Eyes ...are large and may appear to bulge, with prominent upper lids.
Your Goal: Bring the eyes in a little and minimize the top lids.
Line: Line upper and lower lids, with a slightly wider band of liner along the lashes of the lower lid.
Accent: Sweep light shadow horizontally across the browbone to take the focus off the lid area.
Define: Sweep a horizontal band of deep shadow across the whole lid, extending from the inner corner to just beyond the outer edge of the eye. This subtly elongates and minimizes prominent lids.

For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Add a dot of highlighter below the arch of the brow.
Brows & Lashes: Emphasize the highest point of the brow to counteract the roundness of the eye shape. Lightly mascara top lashes, concentrating more color on lower lashes.

Round Eyes
Round Eyes ....are shaped almost perfectly oval, not deep-set or overly prominent.
Your Goal: To give eyes more elongation.
Line: Outline both lids evenly, top and bottom, extending eyeliner just beyond the outer corners.
Accent: Focus light color on the outer section of the browbone, brushing outward to elongate the eye. Cover area from browline to lid crease.
Define: Concentrate deep shade at the edge of the eyes, extending color out beyond the eye to elongate.

For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Overlay a little highlighter on the highest edge of the browbone.
Brows & Lashes: Extend the outside edges of the brows. Creating an arch will also make the eye look less round. Concentrate mascara on the top lashes, especially on the outer corners of the eyes.

Down-Slanting Eyes
Down-slanting eyes...are eyes that seem to droop downward at the outer edges.
Your Goal: "Lift" the outside edges for a livelier look.
Line: Line upper and lower lids. On the lower lid only, slant the liner upward, extending a bit beyond the outside corner of the eye
Accent: Brush light shade along the browbone, concentrating most
Of the color on the outer edges and slanting upward.
Define: Apply deep color to the outer third of the lid, from lashes to crease. Stroke upward at the outer edge to create a lifting effect.

For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Add a touch of highlighter to the highest point of the browbone.
Brows & Lashes: Accent (or create) a gentle arch to give the brow a slight upslant. Focus most of your lashcolor on the upper lashes, especially at the outside corners.

Hooded Eyes
Hooded Eyes ...are eyes with sagging lids and folds of skin around them.
Your Goal: To minimize the hooded effect.
Line: Use a fine line to outline the lids, upper and lower.
Accent: Sweep light color on the highest point of the browbone,
above the crease.
Define: Smooth deep color horizontally over hooded area, (slightly
above the crease of the eyelid).

For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Overlay highlight over the browbone.
Brows & Lashes: Shape brows into an arch to "lift' the eye further. Concentrate most of your mascara on upper and lower lashes from inner corner to the middle of the eye.

Small Eyes
Small Eyes...are smaller than average, or when compared to the rest of your features.
Your Goal: Make eyes look larger.
Line: Use a fine line to outline the entire eye. Use a light to medium shade of eyeliner to avoid "closing" in the eye and making it look even smaller.
Accent: Brush a light shade over the entire lid from lashes to browbone to "open" the entire eye.
Define: Stroke deep shade horizontally, starting from the inner corner, along the lid crease. Extend color slightly past the outer eye corner to widen.

For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Stroke highlighter under the browline, blending into your light color.
Brows & Lashes: Brush brows up and extend the line of the brows slightly past the eye. Thin brows make eyes look larger. Apply mascara generously on top lashes and lightly on lower lashes.

Asian Eyes
Asian Eyes....are almond-shaped with little or no natural crease in the lid.
Your Goal: Create contrast between eye, lid and browbone.
Line: Line upper and lower lids, keeping line close to lashes.
Accent: Bring out the browbone with your light shade.
Define: Create the effect of a crease in the lid, by starting your deep color at the inside corner of the eye and drawing it horizontally midway between the lash line and the brow bone. Blend to avoid an obvious 'stripe' of shadow.

For An Extra Touch:
Highlight: Add highlight on the outer third of browbone.
Brows & Lashes: Giving the brow a slightly arched shape 'opens' the eye. If eyes are small, also extend the edges of browline. Apply mascara generously to upper and lower lashes.
- back to the top ^





Extra Eye Tips!
Tip! Keep pencil eyeliner from smudging by going over the line with matching powder eyeshadow.
Tip! Another way to line your eyes: Use your favorite deep- toned eyeshadow, wet or dry, with an eyeliner brush.
Tip! Use a white pencil to line the inner edge of the eye to make whites look, brighter and bigger; and to hide any redness.
Tip! Keep a magnifying mirror nearby to check your work.
Tip! Shadow won't stay? Powder lids before you apply your colors.
Tip! Less is more! It's easier to build color up layer by layer than to erase too much.
Tip! Clean up slips and smudges as you work with q-tips moistened in eye makeup remover.
- back to the top ^

GENERAL TIPS
1. Be careful with shimmery products, especially on your eyes; they tend to collect in creases.
2. If you have large and open eyes, don’t use loud or bright colors that will over emphasize the fullness. You want them to be soft and keep a person’s attention.
3. On deep-set eyes, you should use shadow colors that are on the light side of the color spectrum.
4. For a light or sheer look, dampen sponge before applying foundation.
5. Don’t test foundation or concealer color on your hand. Match it to the skin on your face and neck.
6. Make sure you shake your foundation vigorously before applying.
7. If you have sallow skin, pick a foundation that disappears on your face. To counteract your skin tone choose a pink or rosy blush.
8. If your mascara thickens when it reaches the end of the tube, place tube in warm water. That will help make the mascara thinner.
9. Don’t pump your mascara wand into the mascara container. This pushes air in the container and makes the mascara dry out faster. Gently insert the wand, turn two or three times, then remove and apply to lashes.
10. Always use less mascara on your lower lashes.
11. For clumpy eyelashes, use a lash comb to remove clumps.
12. If you have problems under the eye such as dark circles, bags, uneven skin tones, wrinkled skin, etc…. these problems will become more obvious if you apply mascara to the bottom lashes.
13. Even if you do not use foundation or concealer a powder will give the skin a matte finished appearance.
14. Powder makes things stay in place whether it is cream based products that move around or foundations, pencils or concealers.
15. Makeup lasts longer with powder application
16. Powder stops shine. Don’t over powder; it is healthy to have some sheen.
17. Before applying powder make sure there are no lines or creases. Once you powder, it will stay put.
18. If your face is very moist, blot first gently with a tissue, otherwise the powder will clump.
19. Put a light layer of powder under the eyes before applying eye shadow. If color falls when applying color, it can be gently whisked away after you have finished your application.
20. Too much color? Dust on a layer of loose powder or pressed powder to take off the edge.
21. Don’t worry about matching your lip color to your blush; just keep it in the same color family.
22. The thinner your lips, the more neutral your lip color should be.
23. Mixing colors is the best way to vary your lipstick shades.
24. Avoid true red shades if your face is blotchy, irritated or ruddy. Your lips will draw attention to your skin.
25. A great way to organize your lipsticks or use up the end of your lipstick is to dig out or cut off a chunk of lip color and place it in a lipstick palette case.
26. Pale shades of lipstick make lips look fuller.
27. To enhance a pout, dab a silver lip-gloss onto the center of your lower lip.
28. If lip liner is too dark tone it down with a small amount of foundation then reapply lip liner.
29. Vitamin E oil gives your lips a topcoat plus seals in color. This also creates instant shine and helps to protect sensitive areas.
30. To prevent lipstick from getting on your teeth, put your finger in your mouth and close your lips-when you withdraw your finger it will remove excess color.
31. When tweezing your eyebrows first apply Ambesol to numb the area.
32. Invest in a good tweezers, we recommend Tweezerman.
33. If you are thinking of lightening your brows, try colored mascara first to see what they would look like.
34. If you want your eyebrows to stay in place, put clear mascara on them or a little hairspray on an eyebrow groomer and brush to desired shape.
35. Concealer doesn’t have to be worn with any makeup or powder. Sometimes all you need is a little concealer and something on your lips. Make sure your concealer is one or two shades lighter then your skin. Women insist on using the lightest concealer. Concealer should be applied as sparingly as possible. You don’t want it to be cakey or thick.
- back to the top ^