I just realized, as I gazed wistfully
at the Patagonian moon, that in the last three months I’ve
been on three different continents. The two trips that preceded
this one were:
Stockholm. The most expensive city in
Europe, I believe. Even the cheapest-looking restaurants are just
that: cheap
looking. But you won’t get much change
out of your month’s salary if you have anything more than
bread and water. Admittedly the bread was fantastic... Almost as
fantastic, but a definite tourist trap, was the
Absolut Ice Bar - essentially a room that has
been turned into a large fridge, into which they have fit a fairly
standard-sized bar. It’s so cold that they give you
protective clothing to wear and limit you to some small number of
minutes. Not because they’re afraid that any harm will come
to you, but to save the ice inside from melting from all that body
heat... So the idea is you go in and marvel at the ice walls, the
ice bar, the ice bench, the ice table, and the ice sculpture, and
you then down a vodka that’s so sweet it makes a sugar cube
taste bitter by comparison, and you then leave. The sugar,
apparently, is to help you burn up the required calories with which
to keep the frostbite at bay. I can attest to the cold, and the
fact that if you do attempt to lick the walls your tongue
will stick... Overall, the trip (to attend a conference)
was worthwhile. Largely due to a couple of friends whom I went
with, and various others whom I met over there. It’s just a
shame that it cleaned me out financially.
Philadelphia. I went to the
USA’s historical heartland to set up a collaborative project
with a group there that do neuroimaging (brain scans, for any
reader fortunate enough not to be an academic). The folk there were
fantastically nice. Made me feel incredibly welcome. I guess they
took pity on the visiting Brit who knew nothing about neuroimaging
and had a bewildered look on his face most of the time... so the
combination of friendliness and patience was much appreciated, as
was the visit to
the Barnes Foundation, which is an astonishing and
unexpected place. The night that I arrived, I got off the plane,
found my hotel, and made my way around the corner to a bar called
Tria - the
place for cheese and beer in Philadelphia. It was so noisy, full,
and exhilarating that I barely stood out as the oldest person there
by a decade or two. I did try my best to hide the fact that I
couldn’t read the dimly illuminated menu without my reading
glasses... but I failed miserably when it came to reading the
bill... or rather not being able to read it. Or the pin machine
that was thrust at me after I handed over my credit card.
Someone recently told me that the best thing about reaching 50
(I’m not quite there yet) is that one ceases to care about
such things. Yeah, right... The other thing I failed at,
apparently, was being sociable.
THE thing to do, I’m
told, is to sit at the bar and just start chatting to whoever is
sat next to you. I’m just too shy to risk anything as
exciting as that. I also discovered on this trip, around a further
corner just off Rittenhouse Square,
the best café on the
American continent:
La Colombe. They don’t do sandwiches, or
toasties, or fruit yoghurts drizzled on a bed of cereal and salad
leaves... they
just do coffee. Cappuccino to rival any
cappuccino in Southern Italy. And the effortless way in which
artistic patterns were poured into the froth was inspiring. So much
so that I tried it myself when I got back home. It worked a treat -
artistic patterns were poured, by an excited me, onto my coffee,
the surrounding counter, and a substantial portion of the floor.
Probably I shouldn’t have been quite so optimistic that
anyone without years of experience could so instantly ascend to the
level of a black belt barrista...
And now I am in
Argentina, where I have been for
the past two weeks. Next week I fly off again, after a day and a
half in the UK, to
Turkey for a week’s
holiday with my kids (and most definitely
without the
journal). A couple of weeks later, I’m off to a conference in
Barcelona. And then I’ll have an
only-slightly interrupted 4 weeks before flying back to
Washington. Maybe I’ll make a small detour
and drop by La Colombe again...