The maintenance treatment of fruit trees, berries and shrubs.

While the annual seeks its nutrients in the surface layer of the soil, the tree grows its two root systems – one with feeder roots near the surface, the other sending mechanically supporting and feeder roots into the deeper layers or subsoil.

A tree dislikes standing moisture in the root area, which hinders the even development of a spreading root system. The soil should be prepared by deep subsoiling in order to break any hardpan and establish water and air circulation.

A plant root absorbs oxygen to the total of its own root volume per day.

In the first year of a garden, rotovating and grading is to be done prior to any planting (use a rotovator or double dig in a garden, then apply 3” thick layer of cow manure or spent mushroom compost before rotovating or double digging again). Sow mustard or phacalia as a cover crop in the spring before rotovating this in the autumn to provide more humus, so that the roots of the new trees/shrubs can grow faster. Trees/shrubs do not like raw manure or raw organic matter.

When planting in the early spring of the second year, the narrow hole - just deep enough to hold the tree/shrub and its initial root development – should be filled with a mixture of the soil and very well rotted compost. Be sure that the soil is tightly pressed around the plant, so that it does not wobble in its hole. The soil level round the base should be the same as the rest of the ground level to prevent rotting of the bark and roots. The grafting scar should be 2” above ground level. A supporting post at 45 degrees may be used to stop it coming out of its hole by being tied at no more than 18” high (use a rubber tie in a figure of eight, which can be loosened at the end of the first year). This post must be removed after 2 years.

The relationship between rootstock and graft occurs for roses, fruit bushes, fruit trees and some shrubs/trees. It is advisable to use the new small fruit trees with East Malling rootstocks to overcome the possibility of either a fast growing and a strongly pushing root with a slow growing variety grafted onto it or the other way round.

Trees	Suggested planting distances in feet	Trees per acre
Apple	35	36
Cherry, sour	18	135
Cherry, sweet	20	135
Peach	20	110
Pear	20	110
Pear	20	110
Plum	20	110
Berries	Feet between rows	Feet apart in rows
Blackberries	6	6
Grapes	8	8
Raspberries	4	3
Strawberries	4	1.5

Clover, nasturtium and alfalfa can be sown as a cover crop under the fruit tree/shrub orchard during the interim phase of the young growth when the trees do not as yet shelter the soil. Mow this in September and leave the mown bits as a mulch. Nasturtiums are disagreeable to aphids.

Berries and grapes require a dressing of 30 lbs of 2 year-old cow manure/compost per plant each spring.

 

Pruning

The root system is a replica of the tree crown. On naturally grown trees, the individual root “branch” supplies the tree branch directly above it, the sap carrying vessels leading straight up to that branch. On grafted trees this anatomical correspondence is less evident. The feeder roots are right underneath the crown drip and from there on outward. No feeder roots are near the trunk. Any application of compost, mulch, irrigation, should be applied in a space from 2 feet inside to 2 feet outside of the crown drip. All these measures should stay away at least 2 feet from the trunk in older, and 1 foot in younger, trees.

The pruning of a young tree/shrub – in the first two or three years - shapes it for a lifetime. The idea of this pruning is

• to stimulate growth,

• to form a balance between vegetative growth (shoots) and fruit growth,

• to allow the light to enter to all parts of the branches.

Branches should not criss-cross and shade each other; they should be removed. The pyramid-shaped pattern which opens upward and outward has its advantages.

New growth of fruit tree/shrub from one season is to be cut to about 7 buds from the base of the growth. The last outermost bud should be underneath the shoot.

Water shoots or suckers coming out from the root must be pulled off that root, not cut off. Vertical water shoots in the crown indicate that the plant has not been properly pruned or that the plant is undernourished. These must be cut off, well rotted compost applied to between 2 feet and 4 feet radius round the base and mustard seed sown from the trunk to 4 feet radius to provide shade and allow rain penetration to the roots.

Apples and pears should be pruned in January, Peaches in June, stone fruits (Cherry, Plum, Greengage) after the fruit has been picked.

During January the following tree/shrub care can be carried out on all those plants:-

• Remove all dead wood

• Removal of suckers

• Removal of all dead and loose bark, moss and lichen by brushing with a soft wire brush. This will remove a lot of insect pests and their hiding places.

The book “The biodynamic treatment of fruit trees berries and shrubs” by Ehrenfried E. Pfeiffer describes the added benefits of the biodynamic preparations and their uses in this area to add to this organic method.

 

Some useful addresses:-

The Biodynamic Preparations are available from Bio-dynamic Supplies, Lorieneen, Bridge of Muchalls, Stonehaven, Aberdeen, Scotland AB39 3RU.

The annually produced catalogue for mail order vegetable, herb and flower seeds from Stormy Hall Seeds, Bottom Village, Danby, Whitby, North Yorks. YO21 2NJ.

Biodynamically grown herb plants and seeds from Poyntzfield Herb Nursery, Black Isle, by Dingwall, Ross & Cromarty, Scotland. IV7 8LX

The Biodynamic Agricultural Association publishes a journal, Star and Furrow, twice a year in summer and winter; it contains articles both of a philosophical and practical nature, accounts of conferences and meetings, book reviews, correspondence from members and notes of work being carried out in other countries. It also covers subjects related to agriculture including nutrition.

Groups exist in various areas of the United Kingdom for the purposes of study, discussion and practical application of the biodynamic methods recommended.

Books on biodynamic gardening, farming and related subjects from the Biodynamic Agricultural Association, Painswick Inn Project, Gloucester Street, Stroud. GL5 1QG. Tel: 01453 759501. email: bdaa@biodynamic.freeserve.co.uk

 

Some recommended supplementary reading from John Soper’s book Bio-Dynamic Gardening for gardeners:-

Book	Comments
Agriculture - R. Steiner. Translated by Catherine Creeger and Malcolm Gardner. Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association Inc. (USA) 1993	With this remarkable series of lectures, Rudolf Steiner founded biodynamic agriculture. They contain profound insights into farming, the plant and animal world, the nature of organic chemistry and the influences of heavenly bodies.
Biodynamic Gardening by K. Castelliz. Biodynamic Agricultural Association.	A short booklet with very practical hints by a life-long practitioner.
Bio-dynamic Gardening by John Soper. Biodynamic Agricultural Association 1996. ISBN 0 285 63279 5	This book enables you to practice bio-dynamics in your own garden. It explains the principles, including the use of special preparations that enhance the fertility of the soil, how to work with the cosmic influences when sowing and planting, how to cope with pests and diseases and what companion plants to choose for effective results. It covers fruit and vegetables, herbs and special features, and includes advice on crop rotation, green manuring and mulching. It offers special guidance on composting and preparation of the soil, and suggests varieties that are particularly recommended for flavour and productiveness.
Biodynamic Greenhouse Management by H. Grotzke. Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association Inc. 1988	Full of practical tips on soil blends, light, sanitation and cuttings.
Biodynamic Sprays by H. Koepf. Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association Inc. (USA)	This introductory booklet describes how the biodynamic sprays are made, how they influence cultivation, and how they are to be used. It is a good reference for anyone working with the biodynamic sprays and preparations.
Companion Plants and How to Use Them by H. Philbrick and R. Gregg. The Devon Adair Company, Old Greenwich, Conn. (USA) 1991	An essential guide for gardeners wishing to make use of the beneficial and avoiding harmful plant combinations.
Culture and Horticulture by W. Storl. Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association Inc. (USA)	Layman and gardener alike will thoroughly enjoy this book and benefit from a deeper philosophical and practical understanding of horticulture.
Elements of Plant Protection by Louis. L. Pyenson. John Wiley & Sons Inc, New York	Valuable information about pests and diseases
Gardening for Health & Nutrition by J & H. Philbrick. Anthroposophic Press (USA) 1988	A detailed introduction to biodynamic gardening by the author of Companion Plants.
Grow a Garden and be Self-Sufficient by E. Pfeiffer and E. Riese. Mercury Press (USA) 1999	The 'classic' introduction to biodynamic gardening by Ehrenfried Pfeiffer who for many years was the driving force behind biodynamics in the U.S. This book is full of practical suggestions which are as relevant today as when it was first published during the war.
Handbook on Composting and the Preparations by G. Corrin. Biodynamic Agricultural Association 1999	A basic introduction to biodynamic composting for farm and garden.
Life to the Land - Guidelines for biodynamic husbandry by K. Castellitz. Lanthorn Press 1999	Filled with experiences gleaned from a life-times work with the Preparations.
Organic Growing Media, Research into the use of compost for potting mix nutrition by W. Brinton and D. Tresemer. Woods End Laboratory (USA) 1988.
Stella Natura by S. Wildfeurer. Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association Inc. (USA)	A sowing and planting calendar published annually in the USA, filled with fascinating articles on biodynamics
Studying the Agriculture Course by J. Soper. Biodynamic Agricultural Association 1991	Notes and experiences gained through many years of working with the lectures.
The Biodynamic Treatment of Fruit Trees, Berries and Shrubs by E. Pfeiffer. Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association Inc. (USA). ISBN 0-938250-11-6	Basic principles and practical guidance on growing top and soft fruit. Describes measures to take in order to develop a pest-free orchard without the use of chemicals.
The Diagnosis of Mineral Deficiences in Plants by Visual Symptoms by T. Wallace. Chemical Publishing Co. Inc, New York. 1953	Details on deficiency symptoms.
The Ever Changing Garden by A. Klingborg. Lanthorn Press 1988	A history of garden design from a biodynamic perspective, filled with beautiful paintings and drawings.
Weeds and What They Tell by E. Pfeiffer. Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association Inc. (USA)	This booklet presents one small segment of Pfeiffer's knowledge of living plants: how they grow, what they reveal about their surroundings and how their powers may be harvested for the benefit of those who can appreciate and use them.
Working with the Stars - A Biodynamic Sowing and Planting Calendar by M. Thun. Floris Books.	The well known calendar published annually.