The Disston 1942 Saw Manual on Cross-cut Saws

The cross-cut saw, being designed to cut across the grain, cuts with an action similar to a number of small knife blades. The front faces of the teeth of a cross-cut saw have an angle of 15 degrees, the back of the teeth have an angle of 45 degrees. The teeth are usually filed with a bevel of about 24 degrees. The upper half of each tooth is set, alternately, one to the right the other to the left, to insure clearance. The true taper grind of Disston Hand Saws gives them additional clearance and makes them run easily with less set than is the case with saws ground in the ordinary manner.

The amount of set given a saw is highly important because it determines the ease with which the saw runs; it insures accuracy of cutting and it helps keep the saw sharp for a longer time.

The nature and character of the wood to be cut also must be considered. Green or wet wood requires a saw with coarse teeth and wide set, 6 or 7 points to the inch, while a 10 or 11 point saw with light set will work better in dry, well seasoned lumber. For ordinary cross-cutting, the user will find the 7, 8 or 9 point most in demand.

Points to the Inch

Points to the inch is a term used to designate the size of teeth in a saw. The saw with a small number of tooth points to the inch, 6 or 7 points for example, will make a rough cut, yet cut fast. Saws with more points, say 10 or 11 points, will make smooth even cuts

 

How to Use a Cross-cut Saw

Keep your saw SHARP and properly set...The correct position for cross-cutting is shown at right. An imaginary line through the saw, arm and shoulder would be slightly to the left of the saw blade, permitting view of the line where the work is to be cut.

To start the cut, rest the blade on the waste side of line, support the side of the blade with the thumb and draw the saw toward you a few times until a slight groove is formed; then cut straight with a full stroke.

In cross-cutting, it is best to maintain an angle of 45 degrees between the saw and the face of the work. Extending the forefinger along the side of the handle aids in guiding the blade. Take long, easy strokes and make each stroke do its work.

Supporting the waste side of the work will prevent the wood from splintering on under side when the cut is nearly completed. Do not twist off waste with the saw blade. Look carefully at repair work to see that there are no nails in the path of saw. Don't throw your saw around; keep blade covered with a thin coat of light oil and hang it up when not in use.

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 Last revised 8/6/98