Introduction and Resources for Building Hammer Dulcimers

There are several sources of plans and materials for hammer dulcimers. Sources vary from general texts on construction to specific plans and material lists.

General texts:

Smithsonian Public Inquiry Mail Service National Museum of American History Smithsonian Institution Washington, D.C. 20560
Ask for Leaflet 72-4, "Making a Hammer Dulcimer" by Sam Rizzetta
House of Musical Traditions 7040 Carroll Ave Takoma Park, MD 20912 301-270-9090

Plans and Supplies:

Unless you are fairly well experienced as a woodworker I don't recommend winging it. There are a few sources of plans available which could help you get to a playable instrument in a fairly short period of time.

These guys have a bunch of kits/plans for various instruments. They provide everything from finished instruments to plans and in between. They like to use laminated wood (fancy plywood) for many of their instrument kits and this may turn off some of you purists. Personally, I find laminated tops and backs make a good (maybe not great) hammer dulcimer and definitely recommend this approach for the beginning builder with beginning or intermediate woodworking skills.
 
I haven't tried any of their plans but I like their finished instruments.

About all I can give you in the way of advice as a wood-doinking, dillettante luthier is: make a 15/14 instrument (more versatile) and don't waste time on the more limited 12/11 model unless the size is a factor, make an instrument with relatively long string length (see Rizetta's pamphlet for guidance) because smaller instruments usually suffer in tone and sustain, don't sneer at laminated wood for a first instrument, don't overbuild the back by using 3/4 plywood, 1/2" is adequate and 3/8" probably would work if the internal bracing is up to snuff (I use all-poplar or baltic birch plywood), and use rock (sugar) maple (either solid or laminate) for the pin blocks. Make sure you have a drill press or post drill available for drilling the pinblocks. You'll have over 100 closely spaced holes to drill (at an angle, no less) and they have to be right. Slip a bit and you'll ruin the hole for the tuning pin or end up with a loose pin down the road.

 

Copyright 1997, 1998 Thomas Price - All rights reserved

Revised 1/3/2006