'the happiest days of our lives...' 



those week-ends in which we went to the beach in the family car, the piercingly bright Caribbean sky, the sea appearing when you turned the bend after the second tunnel on the motorway. Stop on the way to buy things like biscuits, beer and soft drinks. I didn't like the road to Arrrecife, up the mountain and then down the mountain, full of drops, bends and trucks that had to be overtaken. As you approached the place you could see a folly on the side of the mountain, somebody had had a fairy castle built in that improbable location in the one ugly spot in the Caribbean.. you also saw the two horrible power stations, the oceanic beach to the right, which was quite nice but we weren't allowed on because of the 'resaca', Spanish for 'undertow'; I didn't know what this meant but did know that I didn't like the beach we did get, in between the power stations, with all the boats of the local fishermen moored nearby -both of which things often meant bits of oily gasoline film on the water in parts of it. Ships in the distance, the boats swaying in the harbour -if harbour you could call it. getting in the water was difficult, it was unpleasantly cold and I didn't like the feeling of the cold water ebbing back as i stepped in. It was also uncomfortable to get out as you felt cold again when you came out in the air, What would I think now, used to this damp cold soggy island, if I could relive the experience... now, in spite of everything I enjoyed quite a bit of it, being in the water and the sun, being on my own (I was nearly always on my own and cannot remember what my mum and sister were up to, much nearer the waterline).

the return journey, my mum sitting in the front seat very quiet -she never ventured an opinion, terrified of being shouted at, she never said anything even when my dad was driving back home drunk swerving all over the road as he drove up the Carretera Vieja, the old road that zig-zagged its way up the mountain from the coast and crawled its way to Caracas parallel to the motorway where he must have thought there was more chance of him being stopped. We swung madly around the bends with us in the back seat looking at the vertiginous drops thinking we could see the wrecks of cars down there. we certainly could see the motorway in the distance, Then we saw the monument, there was a sort of plinth like that of a statue on top of which there was a wrecked car and some writing on it about speed and drink-driving which i could never read because my dad was driving too fast, having had more than a few too many...

My father had some peculiar ideas about the sea and sea water, we shouldn't shower straight away because sea water was 'good for you' and maybe I hated the beach for the horrible feeling of salt in your skin the morning after perhaps more than for the fearsome return journey.

in the holidays i used to spend time on the flat roof at the back of the house. Perhaps I should explain that the house had two floors and flat roof; the top floor wasn't built all along the house; there was a flat terrace-like space at the front and some space (where there were a couple of water tanks and nooks and crannies, it was an odd construction) at the back. I would climb up there when my dad had the belligerent demon inside him, often when he came back drunk from his fishing trips. He would be shouting in a throaty voice down there, shaking his fist at me and reminding me I would have to come down at some point..

But most of all here were also those beach trips the return from which left such a lasting impression on me. I hardly remember anything about the outward journeys, though; maybe it wasn't as memorable as my dad would have been sober then, or perhaps it was so early that i was in a catatonic state anyway. I remember being there, boiling in the back seat of the car, the plastic upholstery of the Chevrolet Byscaine imprinting its pattern on my skin. Most of all i remember floating in the water with a child-snorkel, one of those things with a safety valve at the top end which never quite worked right so at some point you ended up swallowing salt water which stuck to your throat and didn't let you breath so you would emerge gasping for air without anyone taking any notice. We were a permanent fixture in Arrecife on week-ends, I suppose, except in the fishing season when my dad would leave at some ungodly hour for the same place but on his own, to sail out in a little boat and spend the day fishing out in the sea, eventually coming back with two or three large ice-boxes full of fish which I hated: it had to be scaled and gutted and after we had given fish to all our friends and neighbours there was still enough left to last until Thursday or so. I didn't dislike all fish, i liked trashy fried fish, just didn't like it the way my dad cooked it. One day I must try his recipe and see what I think of it now. He would make some cuts across the large Catalufas, as they called these red Caribbean fish which weren't groupers but had a resemblance -they call them Catalanas elsewhere. He would put parsley and garlic in the deep cuts, put olive oil (how I hated olive oil as a kid..), salt and pepper and a few potatoes or yams and put the tray in the oven to slow bake for a few hours. I so hated that concoction. Eat the eyes, they're the most nutritious bit. Don't fidget with your fingers, don't play with the bread you idiot now eat, don't you know they're starving back in India?

I would be suspended there in the water, transfixed with the few fish that there would be in that horrible beach, the changing reflections of the sun in the water and the fish, the movement of the water on the sand creating ripples on it like wind on desert dunes. I could stay there on my own floating and watching the changing light show and those few little fish for hours... while my father was playing dominoes in the bar some distance away, surrounded by a forest of beer bottles, slamming the pieces (the 'stones', they called them) down against the table, shaking a couple of bank notes, some chorus of hoarse laughter suddenly breaking. I really really didn't like that bar and I probably would be very disappointed to find, as was probably the case, that it was much smaller and less seedy than I made it out to be, in all probability an ordinary beach bar and not some sleazy mafia den.

The way he taught us to swim was typical. He just threw us in the water ('fend for yourselves...') but then would pick us up and buy us floaters so we were terrified of the water for ages and took a long time to wean ourselves of the floaters

Poor man. We lived in awe and terror of him. I was, even in my twenties, let alone when I was thirteen and very shy and socially maladjusted, one year younger than my classmates, living largely in an inner imaginary world, reading (always a bad sign.. and I still am a compulsive reader), bunking off PE and sports. The curious thing is the books I read so avidly were largely his books. I couldn't buy books with my non-existent pocket money neither was I interested in actually buying them, especially when we had a house full of them. He was a terrifying figure.. pity i didn't understand how he processed the world until I went to Italy and saw 'them' in their natural habitat and learnt that all that sound and fury meant not much really, all those 'ikillyou's didn't mean he was going to actually kill us. But by then it was too late and he had died...


to be continued 

Posted: Wed - December 10, 2003 at 02:17 PM          


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