August 12, 2001: For the impatient, or those interested in getting a glimpse of the reviewed products immediately, you may use these links:
Images
1:
Uniform Items, etc. Images
2:
Accouterments Images
3:
More Accouterments
After a buying drought, I have been busy acquiring a number of new products in the second half of the 2000 season through this Spring. Traci was kind enough to buy me a scanner a couple of years ago, and, when practical, I will add images of the reviewed items on separate pages. A list of reviewed or soon to be reviewed items follows:
Newly
Reviewed Items Maker Images Chris
Sullivan Yes Mark
Woodburn Yes Brandon
Jolly Yes Nick
Sekela Yes Nick
Sekela Yes Ray Hock
Yes S.G.
Marinos Yes Andrew
Doddington Yes
One of the best sources (outside
of examining original items) for scrutinizing reproductions is
The Watchdog. Published quarterly, the 'Dog
provides the reenacting community with a valuable source of informed
product reviews, particularly when it comes time to shell out the
hundreds of hard earned dollars necessary to purchase high quality
items. Please know that I do not have the level of expertise shown by
the majority of Watchdog contributors.
My sources for information on historical accuracy include The Watchdog, Army Blue: The Uniform of Uncle Sam's Regulars, 1848-1873, Civil War Cartridge Boxes of the Union Infantryman, and Echoes of Glory. I have also consulted a number of authenticity guidelines and evaluations on the Authentic Campaigner website. The discussion forums on Rick Szabo's CWReenactors board are full of information, and the sites for The Columbia Rifles, The Rowdy Pards and The Rockport Mess all have excellent articles on attaining the most authentic garb.
I favor an approach that takes a number of sources into account, as assumptions, even those from the most reputable of sources, might be incorrect. An example might be the infamous Enfield Bluing debate. A large portion of the progressive community bought in to the notion that Union Enfields were almost invariably burnished bright during the war. It became a standing policy that the defarbing process should also entail the wholesale removal of all bluing from reproduction Enfields. This conclusion was drawn in part from extant original muskets, but the bulk of the "evidence" relied on close examinations of period photographs.
Geoff Walden's article, "The Enfield in the Civil War," cast a long shadow of doubt on the "bright Enfield" myth. Walden had the benefit of examining a large number of original Enfields, but he also takes a cool, common sense approach and considers the facts in a logical and coherent fashion. His conclusion? It would most likely be incorrect to make a sweeping generalization about blued or bright Enfields.
The continued insistence on burnishing Enfield barrels, despite a well researched and argued article calling the widespread practice into doubt, provides the researcher and critic with a cautionary tale. As an acknowledge amateur who primarily relies on secondary sources, I have to add the disclaimer that my evaluations of historical accuracy are only as good as my information on hand.
In addition to the Manufacturer's and Vendor's contact information, I plan to add links to articles discussing the reproduction and/or original item. The links will be included in each review. If the reproduction was discussed or reviewed in The Watchdog, I will include quotes from the review as well. I also plan on adding additional links and references to the reviews, if and as they become available.
My criterion for reviews are as follows:
How well made is the object? Did this product fall apart after one event, or does it handle abuse readily?
Craftsmanship and historical accuracy: Smaller details, such as materials, inspector's marks and other notable examples (or lack thereof) of craftsmanship. Please note that I am not an expert on these matters; I have access to a number of good resources, but viewing photos in Echoes of Glory and looking at an original haversack are two different things entirely. As new information regarding authenticity becomes available, I will adjust my reviews and comments accordingly.
Comparison: How well does the item compare to similar products in its category, based on my observations.
Cost. This includes the important cost for authenticity factor.
Overall Rating: A combination of the four categories.
I welcome people's opinions on these and/or other products. If you wish to have a review posted here, mail it to me at cw_reenactors@yahoo.com
Reproduction Rifle Muskets, Rifled Muskets and Muskets A detailed chart
M1861 Springfield Rifle Musket
Specifications:
Stock: American Walnut, oil finish.
Barrel: .58 Caliber, bright finish. Flip up rear sight, marked 100, 300 and 500 yards. Rate of twist 1-66", button rifled, groove .007" deep.
Furniture: Steel, bright finish. Lockplate marked 1861, U.S. Springfield, U.S. on butt plate, barrel bands each marked with a "u" (up) for proper installation.
Cone: 5/16th x 24"
Weight: approximately 9 1/2 pounds.
New Information/Considerations: I've had an opportunity to conduct some additional research in the two years since I first reviewed the Armi Sport Springfield. I intend to keep the text of the original review intact, as some of the details I incorporated remain accurate.
I found a link to this page in a NSSA post on purchasing reproduction Springfields. I do have some live firing experience with my old Zouave, but I only put rounds through the Armi Sport once. I have no intention to do so again, given the possibility of minié skirts lingering in the barrel. Based on my sole experience firing conicles through the bore, I can make a few observations:
1). The trigger pull is terrible. Some friends and I conducted an unscientific test with a fish scale (after we took some measures to protect the cone, of course), and we found the trigger pull was in the 12-14 pound range. This is obviously not condusive to accuracy. I would reccomend that if you are interested in purchasing this weapon as a hunting or target rifle, you should have a gunsmith lower the trigger pull. This will probably involve hardening internal parts in the lock, As it stands now, you can support the gun's weight on the trigger without snapping the hammer. A heavy trigger pull is fine when your vollying with blank rounds and you can jerk the trigger without worrying about accuracy. In fact, some might argue that it is safer to have a weapon with such a heavy trigger pull in a massed formation. Some units might require a weapon with a heavy pull.
2). If you've bought the gun for reenacting purposes, get a second barrel if you intend to do any live firing. Patched round ball are less likely to leave residual lead, but why take a chance?
3). Replace the factory cone with a stainless steel cone. I had some problems with misfires when I first used the Springfield (described below), but these were alleviated when I bought a high quality cone. My old Zouave had a cone with a wide, straight channel, which was fine for igniting loose powder. I never used the rifle in a reenactment after I began to shoot live rounds, but the channel would fill with powder, resulting in a spectacular flash over the cone. The hammer almost invariably was thrown to half cock, and my right hand had powder fragments embedded in the skin for a week after each shooting session.
Some reenactors attempt to improve the ignition qualities of their rifle muskets by drilling out the cones. This isn't the safest proceedure. A good cone should be able to ignite the loose powder of a blank charge and prevent dangerous blowback if one chooses to fire live rounds (keep my caveats about this practice in mind).
I initially bought the Armis Sport beacuse of its faster twist. However, original rifle muskets have remarkably slow twists (1/78-1/72), and they were able to acheive decent accuracy out to 400 yards or more, with a good marksman (see some of Joe Bilby's work on this subject). The Euroarms reproduction is probably equally accurate. It would seem that a slower rifle twist is of less importance in military arms than in sporting/hunting rifles.
With regards to authenticity, the jury is still out. An article in The Watchdog panned the Armisport Springfield, while I have heard others reccomend it as a more accurate alternative to the Euroarms reproduction. Some claim that the Armisport is heavier, others argue that the Euroarms weighs more. In both instances, it is likely that modern liability concerns led the manufacturers to add thicker barrels, with correspondingly thicker stocks. My current inclination is to reccomend the Euroarms rifle, at least for authenticity's sake (make sure you purchase a reproduction with an oil finished stock). It must be noted that the Armisport 1842 varients have received high praise from reviewers and reenactors alike. If Dixie Gunworks is still selling the Miroku Springfield varients, you may want to consider one of these fine, if not expensive reproductions. A number of people claim that this weapon is the closest match in terms of "feel" to the original weapons, and it's reputed to be a fine shooter as well.
Original Review
Considerations: Although there are a number of manufacturers who produce WBTS firearms, Armi Sport and Euro Arms (both based in Italy) appear to dominate reproduction long gun production. When I was shopping for rifle muskets, I weighed several considerations. Most sources agree that the Euro Arms weapons have a somewhat superior finish. However, I was also interested in purchasing a gun I could live fire. Based on my research, Armi Sport's the 1 in 66" twist rifling is better suited for conical projectiles than the Euro Arms' 1 in 78" twist. Euro Arms rifle muskets tend to cost slightly more, but I opted for the faster rifling. One sutler states that the Armi Sport Springfield boasts progressive rifling (the barrel's rifling narrows slightly at the muzzle to swag the bullet, improving accuracy), however I have not seen this information anywhere else.
It has been said before, and I'll repeat it here. Avoid purchasing 2 band rifles unless your unit carried them historically (even then, many reenactments ban the use of the shorter rifles). The M1863 Remington "Zouave" is a fine gun for target shooting or hunting, but there is little evidence to suggest that it was issued in the field. Their barrels are considerably shorter (about 7") than those of most rifle muskets, which makes them more dangerous when fired from the rear rank in a battle.
Review: This has been a generally solid and dependable weapon. I have yet to throw miniés through the bore, so I can't report on its accuracy.
Armi Sport chose to make the stock out of American walnut, which is apparently lighter than the European walnut stocks of Euro Arms muskets. Nevertheless, this is a fairly sizable and hefty gun, as I discovered when I took a hit at Monocacy and had the rifle fall onto my arm. I had a deep bruise for two weeks. The stock has an oil finish, the metal parts are highly polished, and the fit between the metal and wood parts is excellent. However, it must be noted that the barrel and stock are significantly thicker than those of the original. Some may prefer the more graceful lines of the Euroarms reproduction.
The finish overall is quite good, although not as good as that of comparable Euro Arms muskets. The stock took a blow during a drive to an early event, and a piece located between the nosecap and first barrel band broke off. More recently, the ramrod got caught on something in the car and bent just below the swell. My advice to readers is to buy a carrying case or gun sack to prevent such mishaps. Ironically, the rifle has emerged unscathed from some rather harsh landings when its owner took hits at events.
A more serious problem manifested itself in numerous misfires during the first few events. Although this problem plagues a variety of guns at a reenactment, M1861 Springfields, which have tortuous paths from the nipple to the breech, are particularly susceptible to this problem. Some people choose to drill out the nipple or the bolster hole, but this can present a problem when live firing, as powder is more likely to get into the channel. A simple and inexpensive solution is to replace the stock nipple with a stainless steel nipple. These are readily available at many sutlers, and they also have the advantage of ensuring that musket caps will fit snugly on the cone, eliminating the need to squeeze the cap. With a small flash hole at the base, these nipples are also ideal for live firing. The Armi Sport nipple hole is threaded for 5/16 x 24" nipples, and will not take the 8 x 1 mm Euro Arms and Dixie cones, so make sure you specify the make of your rifle. Better yet, bring it along with you, as many sutlers might insist that "one size fits all." Since I replaced the nipple, I have only experienced two misfires over 5 battles, and both of those were due to excess oil in the breech.
While many touches are historically correct, there are some smaller details that can be improved through "defarbing," a process involving a qualified gunsmith removing the modern maker's marks and correcting certain errors. One such flaw is the fowl on the lockplate, which conjures up more images of Thanksgiving than of the Fourth of July. Another, which becomes fairly apparent when one compares photos of original guns with the reproduction, is that the "US" and "Springfield" on the lockplate are too low.
Just a few years ago, there were few choices for reenactors. This situation has changed recently. I would rate the Armi Sport Springfield as a serviceable gun, perhaps somewhat less refined than the Euro Arms equivalents, but more than adequate for most reenactors. Those seeking to fire live ammunition (please, not at reenactments) might want to seriously consider the Armi Sport, with its faster twist (see the new information above; this may not be as important as I first thought).
Price: $420
Source: Old Sutler John. P.O. Box 174 Westview Station, Binghamton, NY 13905.
Durability: Good
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Fair
Comparison: Good (finish), Very Good (live fire potential)
Cost: Very Good
Overall: Good
Weapons
Chart
There are a number of musket and rifle-musket choices available to reenactors. The chart below gives details on some of the infantry weapons currently on the market. Expect additional rifles to appear in the near future.
Caliber/Model Make Time Frame Twist Weight Nipple Price .69 M1816
Conversion Dixie/Pedersoli 1861 on SB 9 3/4 5/16x24 785 .69 M1842 Armi Sport 1861 on SB 9 1/4 5/16x24 450-495 .69 M1842 Rifled Armi Sport 1861 on 1-66" 9 1/4 5/16x24 495-595 .58 M1855 Euro Arms 1861 on 1-72" 10 1/2 8 mm x 1 500-650 .58 M1861 Euro Arms mid 1861 on 1-78" 10 1/4 8 mm x 1 445-465 .58 M1861 Armi Sport mid 1861 on 1-66" 8 3/4 5/16 x 24 415-450 .58 M1861** Dixie/Miroku mid 1861 on 1-64" 8 3/4 8 mm x 1 595 .577 P53 Enfield Armi Sport mid 1861 on 1-48" 8 3/4 5/16 x 1 390-420 .577 P53 Enfield Euro Arms mid 1861 on 1-72" 10 1/4 5/16 x 20 415-495 .577 P53 Enfield Gibbs/Parker Hale mid 1861 on 1-72"* 10 1/2 5/16 x 20 600 .58 M1861 Special Colt mid 1861 on * 550-600 .58 M1863 Type I Dixie/Miroku 1863 on 1-64" 9 8 mm x 1 595 .58 M1863 Type I Euro Arms 1863 on 1-78" 10 1/4 8 mm x 1 465
*Progressive rifling. **May have been discontinued; also available
with a 1-66" twist.
Bayonet Scabbard Seven rivet variety
C & D Jarnagin
Considerations: I purchased a bayonet the same time I bought the rifle. The bayonet is the standard, made in India variant (without the India markings), and the scabbard was the seven rivet variety. After two skirmishes, it became a two rivet scabbard, so I ordered a replacement from C&D Jarnagin.
Review: The scabbard was clearly superior to the stock sheaths that come with the bayonets. The top of the sheath has tightly stitched linen thread, the leather is clearly superior, and the frog is marked with a Storms NY maker's mark. Despite taking a beating at a number of events, the scabbard is in great shape.
As a rule of thumb, one should generally try to pick up a bayonet at an event, so it can be properly fitted to the rifle. Very few scabbards at these events are likely to be of high quality, which most likely means ordering a new scabbard from an outside source. This can also present some difficulties, as in this case, the scabbard need to be stretched slightly to take the bayonet. The frog was also initially very difficult to get on the belt, but in both cases, the leather stretched and became more manageable.
Purchased: Mail Order, July, 1998
Delivery Time: 4 weeks
Price: 29.95
Source: C&D Jarnagin. PO Box 1860, Corinth, MS 38835-1860. www.jarnaginco.com
Durability: Excellent
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Very Good
Comparison: Very Good
Cost: Excellent
Overall: Very Good
Considerations: Although not necessary for my impression, the knapsack gave me an easy way to carry my equipment to the bus station before Traci and I moved in together. I wanted something that would be both accurate and durable. Knapsacks allow their users a good place to hide anachronistic items, but they can also serve as tables and pillows as well.
Review: I have been more than satisfied with this piece. This is a soft pack variant, really most appropriate for mid to late war impressions. The pack has two compartments, one of which is closed with two rawhide thongs, while the other has four flaps which close by means of two leather straps and buckles (these cross each other when closed). The knapsack itself is secured with three leather straps. The left shoulder strap is secured with a heavy brass buckle, while the right attaches with a brass clip and loop, which acts as a quick release. The shoulder straps have cross straps, and there are smaller leather straps on the top of the knapsack for greatcoats or blankets.
There is evidence of extensive hand-stitching, and the left shoulder strap is marked "R Valentine, U.S. Inspector, N. Y." and "J. & W. Lyall, New York." When opened, the knapsack bears a more than striking resemblance to the example in the lower left corner of page 213 in Echoes of Glory. The body is made of painted canvas as per the originals, and has proven extremely durable (although not particularly comfortable) with heavy loads. Compared with the knapsacks often found on sutlers row, this product shows superior workmanship and materials. The stitching is tight, the leather is of high quality, and the knapsack bears a much closer resemblance to the originals than the typical reproductions.
Purchased: Mail Order, July, 1998
Delivery Time: 6 weeks
Price: 115.95
Source: C&D Jarnagin. PO Box 1860, Corinth, MS 38835-1860. www.jarnaginco.com
Durability: Good
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Good
Comparison: Very Good
Cost: Very Good
Overall: Good
James Owens
The "Fire on the Mountain" event at South Mountain, Maryland provided me with a windfall in terms of highly authentic gear. The source is Tim Sheads, of the S & S Sutler based in Gettysburg. While I often lament the lack of quality on sutler's row, a few vendors consistently provide good or excellent equipment and service.
My initial purchase was an 1851 haversack, made by James Owens of Silver Springs, Maryland. I now have the benefit of back issue of The Watchdog, including an issue which provides the original specifications for the issue haversack. Based on Michael R. Cunningham's article, "It's in the Bag: The M1851 Haversack in Federal Service," the Owens bag is an excellent reproduction.
One of the most striking details of the Owens haversack is its diminutive size. Although my old haversack didn't fall into the category of gargantuan, it was certainly larger than my new purchase. The body of the Owens bag measures 12" tall (with the flap closed) and 10" wide toward the bottom of the bag (the bag tapers to a mere 8" on the very bottom). The top flap is also quite shallow, measuring just over 5 1/4". With the flap open, the bag measures about 16 3/4".
The flap consists of two pieces of cloth, sewn together 3" above the bottom edge. The thread used to secure the two pieces is visible on the flap's exterior, and leaves a slight but distinctive ripple on the surface. The flap material is the same as that used in the rest of the bag: a light weight cotton material, covered with a shiny black paint. The flap is secured by a 5/8" roller buckle (just over 6" above the bottom of the bag) and a 7" long, 5/8" wide leather strap.
Compared the the lengthy shoulder straps on typical reproduction haversacks, the James Owens bag utilizes a remarkably short strap, measuring in the 40" neighborhood. The strap measures 1 5/8" wide, and consists of two layers of material, folded over and sewn.
The bag's interior reveals more differences between the Owens haversack and the sutler bought variety. Internal seams are flat felled, virtually every seam is hand sewn, and the rice bag is held in place with three tin, paperbacked button (2 on the back, one in the front). The buttonholes are hand sewn. A James Owens makers stamp hides behind the rice bag.
Based on the specifications given in the Cunnignham article, this reproduction is practically a dead ringer for an original bag. As with so many things authentic, the Owens haversack is a bit pricey when purchased through a retailer. I was initially a bit taken aback at the bag's limited dimensions. One has to be a bit more selective about filling an authentic haversack, as it runs about 40 to 50 percent smaller than most reproductions. This bag would certainly pass muster in a hard-core inspection.
Purchased: From Vender, South Mountain, September 2000
Cost: $78, possibly less if purchased directly from James Owens
Source: S & S Sutler of Gettysburg. 45 Steinwehr Ave. Gettysburg, Pa 17325 (717) 338-1990
Maker: James Owens
Durability: Appears to be very good over three events . . . more on this next season.
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Excellent/Excellent
Comparison: Excellent
Cost: Fair
Overall: Excellent
Images of the James Owens Haversack
C & D Jarnagin
C & D Jarnagin's recent efforts to improve the quality of their goods bodes well for the reenacting community. Although their uniforms continue to lag behind the Daleys and Sekelas in the hard-core category, Jarnagin leatherwear seems to be a different story. Many hard-core and progressive units list Jarnagin as a secondary, or even primary supplier of leather accouterments.
As a part of this year's (2000) great impression upgrade, I ordered a considerable amount of equipment from Jarnagin this Fall. As I am trying to work on an early war impression, I eschewed the late war cap box in favor of the 1850, Watervliet pattern cap pouch. The order arrived about five weeks after I faxed the form to Missouri, and I had a chance to inspect the items before putting them to good use on the second day of Cedar Creek.
The cap box is small, and the flap only partially covers the face of the box. A nicely lath turned acorn finial secures the outer flap. The inner flap bears a H.A. Dingee maker's stamp. The box is hand sewn, and for the most part, the stitching is both tight and straight.
In addition to the requisite wool fleece (located along the top edge inside the box), the pouch has a small leather loop to hold a cone pick (included). This means an end to the dubious practice of keeping a cone pick stuck through my forage cap, particularly when I paid a fair amount for a good cap.
Unlike the later war models, which had riveted belt straps, the straps on the early war box are hand sewn. However, durability should not be a problem, given my own experience with Jarnagin products.
There are probably more authentic cap boxes on the market, but Jarnagin's leather products are worth looking into, whether you're a mainstreamer, an aspiring authentic, or a member of a hard-core group. The products are good, the prices are competitive, and the wait time is considerably less than what you may encounter with some vendors.
Purchased: Mail Order, September, 2000
Delivery Time: 5 weeks
Price: $41.95
Source: C&D Jarnagin. PO Box 1860, Corinth, MS 38835-1860. www.jarnaginco.com
Durability: Excellent
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Very Good/Very Good
Comparison: Very Good
Cost: Excellent
Overall: Very Good
Nick Sekela
This cap pouch appears to have been manufactured in the mid to late war period. The outer cover is larger than that of the Jarnagin H.A. Dingee pouch, the belt loops are lower, and copper rivets secure the belt loops the the body of the cap pouch. The back of the box shows an additional line of stitching, between the upper part of the belt loops (the stitching goes through the wool inside the pouch; it was also present in the Jarnagin Watervliet pouch, but the stitching did not go through the back).. The inner cover bears a "Jewell, Hartford" maker's stamp.
The wool is longer and softer than that of the Jarnagin pouch. Both hold caps in the respective pouches fairly effectively. The Sekela pouch also has the loop for the cone pick. The finial has some horizontal scoring, indicating a turned (as opposed to cast) product. However, the finish is smoother than that of the Jarnagin box.
While the Jarnagin pouch had a tight stitch count, the linen thread was white. Makers commonly coated the thread with a rosin mixture, which left the thread gray (another possible explanation for gray threads would be the use of blacking and accumulation of dirt in the field). Sekela uses a gray thread for the stitching in this box. The sewing is for the most part tight and precise, particularly on the front of the box. The stitching on the rear wanders slightly, clearly indicating a hand sewn product.
There is some debate over Jarnagin's use of a machine to punch the holes in their hand sewn accouterments, although a close examination of both the cap box and cartridge box purchased last fall (2000) gives some indication of stitch variations inconsistent with a machine (Jarnagin cited the use of a stitching wheel). There is no such question at to the construction of the Sekela box. This is an outstanding product, and an excellent addition to a mid to late war impression.
Purchased: From Vender, Gettysburg, March 2001
Cost: $65
Source: S & S Sutler of Gettysburg. 45 Steinwehr Ave. Gettysburg, Pa 17325 (717) 338-1990
Maker: Nick Sekela
Durability: Thick supple leather and tight stitching indicate a very long life in the field.
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Excellent/Excellent
Comparison: Excellent
Cost: Good
Overall: Excellent
Images of the Sekela 1850 cap pouch.
1861 C.S. Storms Contract Cartridge Box
C & D Jarnagin
Jarnagin has a substantial collection of cartridge boxes in their collection, so it should come as no surprise that the company would produce a good replica of an 1861 cartridge box. I choose the C.S. Storms contract box, which began production in 1862. This should give me some leeway when it comes to covering scenarios set in different years.
Base on a survey of cartridge boxes in the Autumn, 1998 edition of The Watchdog, C.S. Storms the Pattern of 1861 cartridge box for the .58 caliber rifle musket had either a turned ball or acorn finial. The box was sewn together (8 stitches per inch). In both instances, the Jarnagin box matches specifications. Stitching is tight and generally even, and a measurement reveals that their are indeed 8 stitches to the inch. The finial is a turned acorn.
The box includes cartridge tins, and has a relatively large implement pouch under the inner flap. A small "US" stamp is set beneath the stitching that attaches the closing strap to the outer lid, and the C.S. Storms maker's marks are visible on boxes sides.
The one uncertain element might be the carrying strap buckles, which appear to be painted black. I plan to purchase a volume on Federal cartridge boxes, which might answer any questions I have about the buckles' accuracy.
The caveats I expressed with the Jarnagin cap box apply to the cartridge box; a close examination may reveal inaccuracies not present in the handmade (and expensive) boxes made by specialized, super authentic vendors. However, you can get a good product (acceptable to a large number of very authentic groups), the cost is reasonable, and the wait is often considerably less.
A second criticism can be applied to the carrying strap. While the length and width conform to specifications, the leather is thin and is not as supple as that in some other vendor's products. I would still rate the strap as a step above most on the market, and I have few reservations regarding its durability.
The box comes with cartridge tins.
Purchased: Mail Order, September 2000
Delivery Time: 5 weeks
Price: 81.95
Source: C&D Jarnagin. PO Box 1860, Corinth, MS 38835-1860. www.jarnaginco.com
Durability: Excellent
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Very Good/Very Good
Comparison: Very Good
Cost: Excellent
Overall: Very Good
C & D Jarnagin
The Jarnagin reproduction canteen came with a brown jeancloth cover and a cotton carrying strap bearing a N.Y. inspector's mark. The strap and mark make it well suited to a post 1862 impression.
As a significant number of canteens came without a chain to secure the stopper, I choose to order the canteen without the chain hole in the bracket. As this canteen has the New York marks, it would technically be correct to have a chain, if one so desired. There are a number of color and fabric options for the canteen, and the addition of a leather strap would make it well suited for an early war impression as well.
Purchased: Mail Order, September 2000
Delivery Time: 5 weeks
Price: 41.95
Source: C&D Jarnagin. PO Box 1860, Corinth, MS 38835-1860. www.jarnaginco.com
Durability: Excellent
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Very Good/Very Good
Comparison: Very Good
Cost: Excellent
Overall: Very Good
Article: The Federal Canteen
C & D Jarnagin
The 2 rivet scabbard is essentially similar to the 7 rivet product I bought 2 years ago. The finial is identical, although the scabbard itself is slightly shorter. The obvious difference are the two rivets and hand stitching on the frog. The chief advantage of the 2 rivet scabbard is its historical flexibility, which ranges from 1861 through 1863 (although it is present in period photographs through 1865). It is also the most acceptable Federal scabbard for the Enfield bayonet.
The stitching on the frog and scabbard is tight and even, and the frog bears a "C.S. Storms" maker's mark.
Purchased: Mail Order, September 2000
Delivery Time: 5 weeks
Price: 34.95
Source: C&D Jarnagin. PO Box 1860, Corinth, MS 38835-1860. www.jarnaginco.com
Durability: Excellent
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Very Good/Very Good
Comparison: Very Good
Cost: Excellent
Overall: Very Good
C & D Jarnagin
My previous poncho was a heavy thing, with enormous brass grommets. The hole in the center of the poncho could occasionally made life more difficult on cold nights.
The Jarnagin gum blanket is a study in contrast. The material is relatively light, and the weave is visible through the rubber coating. Jarnagin produces a vulcanized gum blanket, much as Goodyear did originally, and this might explain the pattern on the rubber.
The grommets are considerably smaller, and the lack of a neck hole means less draft on those chilly eves. Jarnagin will stamp these blankets with a Goodyear Maker's Stamp, although I have yet to locate it on my replica.
As with the Jarnagin canteen, the Jarnagin reproduction gum blanket is highly regarded in the authentic community, so you should be able to purchase this product without the fear of being caught by the authenticity police.
Purchased: Mail Order, September 2000
Delivery Time: 5 weeks
Price: 43.50
Source: C&D Jarnagin. PO Box 1860, Corinth, MS 38835-1860. www.jarnaginco.com
Durability: Untested
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Excellent/Very Good
Comparison: Excellent
Cost: Excellent
Overall: Excellent
Image of the Jarnagin Gum Blanket
Matt Woodburn, Family Heirloom Weavers
My first blanket was a thin, gray affair, with no sewn "US" of strips. While acceptable for warm summer nights, my first weekend at Cedar Creek quickly revealed the blanket's inability to shelter me from subfreezing temperatures. My second blanket was a heavy, think all wool affair, with reddish strip that appear to have been painted on. This was a significant improvement in many respects, but the thickness of the wool made it impossible to roll the blanket with any hopes of fitting the straps of my knapsack. Both blankets came with the ends bound.
Enter Matt Woodburn and the Family Heirloom Weavers.
Armed with photographs from the ubiquitous Echoes of Glory and the work of Fred Gaede (The Watchdog, Volume 8, No. 1), I made the decision to purchase a Woodburn-Mount blanket from Matt Woodburn.
The blanket arrived shortly before Christmas, and included two templates for sewing a "US" into the center of the blanket, as well as several yards of brown yarn. In addition to a template for the standard three line letters, gives the recipient the option of sewing block letters as well. Both templates illustrate the use of quilt stitching, which produces a dashed effect. Those with patience and more confidence in their sewing skills could probably use the templates to create chain stitched letters.
In some respects, the Woodburn-Mount blanket bears a superficial similarity to the "emergency issue" blankets sold by many sutlers. Both show a brown (as opposed to gray) color, with dark brown end strips. There, however, is where the comparison ends. The may be some evidence that a few soldiers in the field bound the ends of their blankets, but the blankets were cut from spools and issued raw. Like its historical model, the Woodburn-Mount blanket is issued with raw ends.
Although thinner than the second blanket, the wool in the Woodburn-Mount blanket is very tightly woven, and shows a distinctive twill weave. The end strips are woven in to the fabric, and clearly show the weave. As noted above, the blanket has a tan/brown color, and is darker than the sutler examples. Shoddy material within the blanket lends a kind of "texture" to the wool, independent of the weave. Red, blue and orange flecks are revealed with a close inspection, and red fibers are clearly visible on one of the unbound ends. I have heard that the blanket's tight weave compensates for its relatively light weight (around 3 lbs, as opposed to the quartermaster regulations specifying a blanket weighing "no greater than 5 lbs" (Yingling, 12).
It is quite easy to add the "US" to the center of the blanket with the templates and yarn, and it adds an additional touch of authenticity lacking in many generic blankets.
I placed my order shortly after Matt shipped the last of the first run of 80 blankets. He was exceedingly polite over the e-mail, and promptly shipped the blanket when the second and final run of blankets arrived from the weavers in December. This is an excellent product, and while it may cost a bit more than the "Emergency Issue" blankets on sutler's row, it is a vastly superior product. The price-for-authenticity ratio is outstanding, considering that other reproduction blankets can cost considerably more than the Woodburn-Mount's $93, including shipping (in all fairness, the Abraham Thomas and Country Cloth blankets are both considered outstanding products, and well worth the money themselves).
Woodburn-Mount blankets were quite a hit within the campaigner community, and the second run has sold out. I post this review both in tribute to a fine product, and as a guide for someone fortunate enough to have the opportunity to purchase one of these excellent products.
John Yingling rated the Augie Weissert (Wisconsin's Veterans Museum, now sold out), the Abe Thomas (Quartermaster Woolens) and the Woodburn-Mount blankets as "excellent reproductions" in the Summer, 2000 edition of The Watchdog.
Purchased: Mail Order, October 31, 2000
Delivery Time: 7 weeks
Price: 93
Source: Matt Woodburn, http://hometown.aol.com/rmwoodburn/myhomepage/sale.html
Durability: Untested
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Excellent/Excellent
Comparison: Excellent
Cost: Excellent (Sold Out!!!)
Overall: Excellent
Andrew Doddington
When I returned to the hobby in 1998, one of my first purchases was a shelter tent, complete with the triangular ends and 2" by 2" tent poles. The poles were quickly replaced with sticks, cut from locust and maple trees on my parent's farm. Eventually, the ends (which never really fit well, due to my unwillingness to cut more "properly" sized sticks) were left at home as well.
However, I continued to drag the tent to events for the 1998 and 1999 seasons. Although I began to attend more events sans tent in 2000, my battered Jarnagin tent sheltered me from the frequent rains at numerous events during this rather damp season. Somehow, the untreated fabric repelled intermittent rain at New Market, and a far more serious downpour at Mesopotamia. Following Mesopotamia, I decided to quietly retire the old pair of shelter halves.
My rationale for doing so was motivated by a variety of factors. A downpour at the end of the Gettysburg event forced me to put the wet halves in my trunk. By the next morning, they were beginning to mildew. This was not so serious as the tears around the brass grommets, caused at least in part by my attempts to close the triangular ends, a nearly impossible task, given my slightly short sticks.
The coup de grace however came about through my continuous research on proper materials and construction. As far as mainstream shelter tents went, the 1998 Jarnagin was relatively light, and its untreated fabric was more accurate than many tents seen in the field. By the same token, it was still too heavy and bulky, and the brass grommets were simply (and glaringly) incorrect (as a side note, Jarnagin now offers shelter halves with hand sewn grommets, but not buttonholes).
I decided to purchase a new pair of shelter halves for the 2001 season. My preliminary research indicated that there were several major patterns of tents issued throughout the war that are also available as reproductions (many contractor and other variants aren't, to my knowledge, currently available). The general characteristics are as follows: I. "Early War" variety, issued roughly from 1862 through 1864. Three panel body, bone buttons. II. Possibly issued from 1862-63. Two panel body, bone buttons. III. Issued in 1864. Two panel body, paper backed tin buttons, addition of enter grommet/loop for additional tent peg (6 for a full shelter tent). IV. As III, with "blue line" material.
There is some debate as to possible variances in size. It was commonly held that early war tents were smaller than the late war varieties, but some have refuted this claim, and attribute size variances to possible shrinkage in the field. Generally, tents seem to have measured 66" by 65", with some variance. Grommets consisted of two holes in a reinforced panel. The holes were reinforced with waxed thread, and twine was looped through the holes. Types I and II have four such grommets, two per side. When the tent was assembled, it was possible to run a piece of twine from one of the top grommets to the ground. There are some records that two piece poles were issued, and when these were employed, the ropes would be necessary, as there was no provision for a ridge pole. It is also probable that when the shelter tents were brought into the field, soldiers would use just about anything they could find to build their humble shelters.
Button holes were hand sewn, and the tents themselves were made with a light duck or drill material. Extant examples are made from 6, 8 and 10 ounce material, although the lighter fabric is more common. By contrast, many reproduction shelter halves are made from 10 to 12 ounce material, sport three brass grommets, and have machine sewn buttonholes. In addition, their is little evidence to support the use of triangular end pieces.
With this information in hand, I posted a message on the Authentic Campaigner mailing list requesting information on a maker who could produce a good "early war" shelter tent, with a relatively fast turnaround. Dave Grieves was kind enough to suggest Andrew Doddington, whom I contacted immediately. I received a reply within hours:
I can make several
varieties of shelter halves. The earliest ones produces by
the U.S. weren't issued until June or July of 62. There were
some imported from France but they're smaller and I don't
have the faintest idea of the look or make of them. The
first ones produced here were 3 piece models with bone
buttons. The bone buttons were the norm until 64 anyway. The
next type produced was a 2 panel version but I don't know
exactly when they were made. I'm still guessing 62 but I'm
not sure. Either of these 2 models is ideal for early war.
The next type is 2 panels with an extra set of grommet holes
along the bottom seam at the center. This allows for a 3rd
loop of rope for another tent peg. This type has metallic
buttons and is for the 64-65 time period. The 4th type I can
do is made of "blue line" sail cloth and is constructed like
the previous type. Each panel has a single blue line 1 inch
in from each edge. This gives a double blue line down the
center where the 2 panels are sewn together. This material
is far more expensive per yard and I don't always have it on
hand. All come with hand
done grommet holes and button holes. Button holes are done
in waxed cotton thread and grommet holes in waxed linen
thread as per specs. Pricing is as
follows: #1. 3 panel marked
B.HANSELL PHILAD'A is $85 #2. 2 panel marked
H.S. McComb Wilmington is $80 #3. 2 panel no
makers mark is $85 #4. 2 panel "blue
line" no marks is $110 Please add $5
postage per half. This covers shipping via priority mail and
insurance. Let me know which
of the first two you want and I'll get on them in a few
weeks. I have 3 pairs of drawers to make, a sack coat, and a
shirt. Too much to do after work! It may be 3 weeks or more
before I get to them. I'll keep you posted.
Although I wasn't in too much of a hurry to receive the halves, they were indeed on my doorstep within three weeks. As one might gather from the e-mail above, Andrew is pleasant to deal with and quite informative. I've noticed that several high-quality makers are willing to share a considerable amount of information with their potential customers, which bodes well for a number of reasons. At the very least, it shows that they have done their research, and they are willing to educate their clients on the matter. Given the increasing number of resources available, this exchange also allows customers to match the information provided by the vendor with historical records for a rough comparison.
The halves themselves meet every criteria for historical accuracy. Grommets and the 23 buttonholes were neatly hand sewn, the tent bears a clear B.HANSELL PHILAD'A maker's stamp, and the cloth used is considerably lighter than that of my previous tent. Doddington also provided the twine lines mentioned above, as well as the twine loops. Each half measures 65" by 64", and I would unscientifically estimate that together, the 2 halves weigh in at a mere 3 pounds, or lighter than a typical single reproduction half. Both halves easily fit into my knapsack, something that would not have been possible with my older tent.
I have yet to properly field test the tent. As I plan on more campaign style camping, regardless of an event's authenticity requirements, it is quite probable that I'll simply use one half for a dew cloth. My old tent proved to be relatively waterproof, however I suspect that the lighter fabric in the new tent might not keep me quite so dry. I must add that this is not any condemnation of the product; a "properly" made reproduction, with its light, untreated fabric, is bound to be less water repellent than a tent made of 12 ounce, treated duck. On the other hand, I would dread the prospect of marching any distance with two 5 or 6 pound shelter halves, provided that I could find the room to carry them in the first place!
There is one final consideration that works in Doddington's favor: variety. Many high quality vendors are now offering several variants. Andrew offers 4, which allows for a considerable degree of specificity. It might be wise to purchase an earlier pattern initially, as such a product allows for a fair amount of historical versatility (1862-64, as opposed to say, late 1864-65).
Purchased: Mail Order, February 27, 2001
Delivery Time: Under 3 weeks
Price: $85 per half
Source: Andrew Doddington. 13651 Kretsinger Road, Smithburg, Maryland 21783. (240) 818-0035, E-mail ny49th@yahoo.com
Durability: Untested
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Excellent/Excellent
Comparison: Excellent
Cost: Competitive with other makers in this level.
Overall: Excellent
Images of the Andrew Doddington Shelter Half
C & D Jarnagin
Considerations: The overcoat should be one of your last purchases, as you're not likely to use it other than early spring and fall events. At Cedar Creek, where mid October evenings can push freezing, the coat is invaluable. It can be used to ward off rain or snow, or as an ersatz sleeping bag. The cloak-coat was also one of the more attractive articles issued to the troops.
Review: The greatcoat is well made, with a pattern in the wool, as can be seen on an original on page 143 in Army Blue. The body is lined with a blue wool flannel, and the sleeves are lined with cotton/muslin. There is a great deal of fabric in this item, as the coat extends to the knees and the cloak itself extends to the elbows. This makes the greatcoat one of the pricier items on the market.
I read somewhere that the Jarnagin greatcoat needed a new lining and reworked button holes in order to pass muster. The buttonholes are machine sewn, and would need to be hand sewn to meet hard core authenticity requirements. The lining is a wool flannel, which is what the originals were often lined with. Jarnagin has shown some initiative recently in terms of producing more historically correct items. Although I have not taken the steps necessary to "authenticate" my greatcoat, the coat is again superior to most I have seen along sutlers row. Many greatcoats are made with cotton, canvas or even burlap(!) linings. The wool in these coats is not of the same quality, and the colors can vary noticeably. Hand made greatcoats, with inspector's and maker's marks, logwood dyed thread and extensive hand stitching are obviously going to be superior products. Jarnagin is a rather large company with a good reputation for quality, but it simply can't produce an extensively hand sewn item for a lower price. My greatcoat cost about $180. However, a similar custom made coat can easily run twice as much.
Jarnagin is perhaps best known as a source for quality leather and tinware. The "Inspector General" gave a Jarnagin cartridge box a thumbs up, and I have been very impressed with their leather items. While their uniforms are not likely to win the approval of hard-core units, they are often of a much higher quality than the run-of-the-mill items found at most sutlers, and the prices are generally comparable. Jarnagin was one of the pioneers ushering the "wool era" of reenacting when most of us were wearing modified work clothes. For the mainstream reenactor, most uniform items found in Jarnagin's catalog are probably not only acceptable, but most likely better than the majority of uniforms found in the field. Again, keep in mind that they probably won't pass muster in hard-core units, so check the suppliers lists at the Bully Boys and the Rowdy Pards websites if that's the direction you wish to go.
Purchased: Mail Order, July 1998
Delivery Time: 6 weeks
Price: 179.95
Source: C&D Jarnagin. PO Box 1860, Corinth, MS 38835-1860. www.jarnaginco.com
Durability: Excellent
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Good/Very Good (fabric)
Comparison: Very Good
Cost: Very Good
Overall: Very Good
Nick Sekela
Nicky Hughes ("Trying to Bag a Good Sack Coat," Watchdog, Volume 1 No. 1, 1993) and Patrick Brown ("My Own Poor Observations on the Lowly Sack Coat," Watchdog, Volume 8, Nos. 1-2, 2000) lament the poor quality of most reproductions readily available to mainstream reenactors.
The average "sutler's row" Sack Coat is constructed of a heavy, fuzzy navy blue material that quickly fades to a deep purple color. The collar is too large and low, the facing on the front of the coat is straight, the material is the wrong weight and color, and the vent in the cuff is exaggerated. Most sack coats issued during the war were lined, and those that were issued without a lining had flat felled seams.
Patrick Brown found the following general characteristics in the 26 samples he examined (yes, the purple is a deliberate commentary/shot at the unholy sheen of many reproduction coats!):
Materials Were constructed of a
lightweight wool flannel (regulations specified 5.5 ounce
wool). The weave had a diagonal twill pattern, and would let
pinpoints of light through when the material was held up to
a light source. The indigo dye process produced coats with a
variety of shades of blue, "from what ranged from what
almost approached a royal blue to a dark navy blue" (8.1:
18). Virtually all coats had a green or gray cast to
them. Generally, reproduction sack
coats are made of a heavy, 18-21 ounce wool/synthetic blend
with no visible twill. The coats are navy blue, with a
black/purple cast to them. While the indigo dyes used in
originals is virtually light fast, the red based dyes in the
modern coats fades to a bright purple, more appropriate for
characters on children's shows than serious living
history. Linings Wool flannel, wool/cotton
blends, cotton (rarely, based on the admittedly small
sample). Sleeves were lined with unbleached muslin. Lined
coats generally had marker's and size marks in the sleeves.
Coats were issued at a ration of 3 lined to 1 unlined. The
bottom of the lining didn't extend to the bottom of the
bottom hem, but stopped at least 2" from the
bottom. Unlined coats had flat
felled seams (8:1: 18-19. No linings, no flat felled
seams. Those with linings frequently have muslin liners in
the body. No makers marks. Linings frequently extend to the
bottom of the coat. General
Construction Facings narrowed from the
top to the bottom of the coat. The collars were relatively
small, and had some form of interfacing. The vent in the
sleeves ranged from 3/4" to 1 1/3". Bodies were made in 3 or 4
pieces, although 2 piece bodies do exist. Fronts were
rounded or squared at the bottom. Construction techniques
varied, from mostly machine sewn to entirely hand sewn.
Tailoring ranged from excellent to erratic. Coats were
initially offered in 4 standard sizes (1-36", 2-38", 3-40",
4-42"), although several other sizes were added later.
Buttonholes were entirely hand sewn. (8.2: 2-4) Facings run parallel. Peter
Pan collars are much too conspicuous. Vents are much too
deep. Machine sewn button holes,
regular stitching (frequently of low quality thread). Sizes
range from 28" to 50"+ breast.
I had a chance to purchase a J.T. Martin sack coat from Bill Sheads of S & S Sutlers at the 2000 Fire on the Mountain (South Mountain) event in Maryland. While I commented on the clear gap in quality between Jarnagin clothing and the average sutler's row merchandise, uniforms constructed by Nick Sekela, John Wedeward and Chris Daley are clearly in a league of their own.
Although I have added some photographs of the new sack coat, they simply fail to do justice to the product. The coat has a distinct diagonal weave and a nice shade of blue (with a blue-green cast). The button holes are hand sewn with a tight and durable button hole stitch. The body is of the 3 piece pattern, lined with a brown cotton/wool material, and the sleeves are lined with white muslin. The lining in the left arm bears the stamp "J.T. Martin, OCT. 18. 64" in black characters, with a large "3" (denoting a size 40 coat), stamped in red ink. The lining in the left sleeve has the inspector's stamp, and reads "Geo. C. Fry, U.S. Insp. Ciniti. O."
The collar and cuff splits are almost understated in comparison with those of most reenactor's coats. The collar measures 2", while the vent of the cuff measures a mere 1/2". By contrast, the purple sack coats have collars measuring 3" or more, with cuff vents of 2" to 3".
It stands to reason that the coat's light weight flannel (5 ounces, as opposed to 18 or more for the purple fuzzies) served to lessen soldiers misery in the summer heat. In fact, the Sekela reproduction is considerably more comfortable than the costume jackets commonly worn at events. It becomes evident that this plebeian uniform was part of a system that, while hardly comfortable in extreme heat, was nevertheless far more bearable then the low quality merchandise worn by the lion's share of reenactors.
There are several concerns as far as the Sekela fatigue blouse goes. The first stems from the date of the maker's mark, although this is invisible when the jacket is worn. J.T. Martin contract jackets were constructed early in the war, so the style won't stand out as anachronistic at events set in 1862 and 1863. A second concern is the potential for a "tailored" look is the purchaser buys a blouse made to individual specifications. The Sack Coat was made in 4 standard sizes, although there was a considerable amount of variation. The potential "tailored authentic" or "cookie cutter progressive" look can be avoided by buying jackets that conform to period specifications concerning size (if practical). My size 3 is actually a bit on the large size for my thin frame, although not so oversized as to preclude my comfort. It should be noted that many makers and progressives extol the virtues of coats that have a "hastily made" look. Based on the material given above from the Brown article, many original coats exhibit signs of hasty and erratic construction. However, he also notes that many coats displayed excellent workmanship. I am leery of the implication that all jackets should have erratic sewing, since this has the possibility of becoming yet another "reenactorism." The workmanship in the Sekela coat would fall into the high end of the category.
The final concern stems from the cost, which can be rather steep. Nick Sekela sells the J.T. Martin Sack Coat for $140 on the Historic Clothiers website (rumor has it that he is getting out of the direct sales bit and focusing on retailers). Unfortunately, 8 or 9 months may pass before the buyer receives his blouse. Chris Daley Sells a similar coat for $140, and the wait is supposedly somewhat less. John Wedeward makes a highly regarded .T. Martin with a short wait time, but the coat runs around $195.
High quality retailers provide potential buyers with another avenue. Most sutlers continue to sell the dreaded purple fuzzies, but the S & S Sutler and S.G. Marinos of Gettysburg both sell high quality merchandise. Tim Sheads of S & S is quite pleasant to deal with, and he is more than willing to point out the important features and details of each product. The obvious drawback of traveling the retail route is the increased cost, but the retailers provide an excellent means of comparing competing products.
On the positive side, virtually every hard-core Federal group recommends Sekela as one of their primary suppliers of Sack Coats.
Price: $179; $120 if purchased directly.
Source: S & S Sutler of Gettysburg. 45 Steinwehr Ave. Gettysburg, Pa 17325 (717) 338-1990
Maker: Nick Sekela, Historic Clothiers.
Durability: Appears to be very good over three events . . . more on this next season.
Historical accuracy/craftsmanship: Excellent/Excellent
Comparison: Excellent
Cost: Good
Overall: Excellent
Articles on sack coats: What is the Correct Color for Your Federal Sack Coat? and The Fatigue Blouse.
Images of the Nick Sekela Sack Coat
Brandon Jolly
This is one of 30 sack coats produced by Brandon Jolly of the Dirty Shirts Mess. Brandon based his research on an original coat in St. Louis. The project is based in part on the need for more variety in hard-core uniforms, as the J.T. Martin coats, such as my Sekela, tend to dominate the field (almost every major authentic maker produces J.T. Martin coats).
The project was coordinated with Paul Calloway's Authentic Campaigner website, although Paul was not directly involved with the project. I still don't buy into the idea that every sack coat was a rush job, but many were, and this coat adds more variety to my impression, particularly from an early war perspective.
The following information came from Brandon Jolly's site:
Chicago trip:
After a visit to the Chicago Historical
Society, and observation of an original Federal fatigue
blouse, the following characteristics will be seen on this
run of coats.
4 piece body
2 piece sleeve
5 piece collar, (1 piece front collar, 4 piece back
collar)
Collar will be interfaced with linen
Front facings will be interfaced with linen.
Tapered front facings, button side lacks the third or extra
top stitch seen on some JT Martins.
I will vary the tapers on individual jackets, some will be
steeper, some wont.
Buttons will be spaced further apart as a standard in these
jackets, some will vary. They will not be bunched towards
the top of the jacket.
The cuff will be vented approx. 1 1/4". The top
stitching will rise back to the vent, but narrows towards
the front of the cuff.
The top stitching throu