The Western Finger Lakes

The 11 Finger Lakes lie scattered across central New York, from Syracuse in the east to Conesus (roughly south of Rochester) in the west. Otisco, Skaneateles and Owasco lie to the east. Cayuga and Seneca, massive 40 mile long lakes, dominate the regions to the center. My cycling experiences were primarily concentrated in the western region, which contains Keuka, Canandaigua, Honeoye, Canadice, Hemlock and Conesus lakes.

The regions topography varies dramatically. The flat, ancient floodplains of Lake Ontario lie to the north. The region's northern most cities and towns, such as Canandigua, Geneva and Seneca Falls have gently rolling hills, while the villages of Honeoye and Branchport in the mid section are dominated by substantial hills. Massive hills loom over the southern ends of the lakes.

I lived a few miles north of Honeoye before my studies brought me to Western Pennsylvania, and my father's parents lived on Keuka Lake's western shore for decades. Long have I appreciated this region's beauty and geographical diversity.

Honeoye lake typifies the areas remarkable geographical variety. My parents' farm lies approximately 2 miles north of the hamlet of Honeoye. The farm is framed to the east and west by hills that rise perhaps 100 feet. Honeoye is nestled in the same valley, however the hills are considerably taller. By the time one reachers lake's southern shore, the hills now tower nearly 1,000 feet above the shoreline.

The Lakes

Keuka Lake: In my opinion, this is the most beautiful of all the Finger Lakes. At 20 miles long, Keuka is one of the region's larger lakes. Keuka is perhaps best known for the massive Bluff point, which divides the northern half of the lake into the east and west branches. The tiny hamlet of Branchport resides at the west branch, while the small city of Penn Yan graces the lake's eastern branch. Hammondsport, a charming Victorian town, lies nestled between the hills at the lake's southern shore. The largest, steepest climbs are along the lake's western shore, particularly to the south, where Bully Hill looms above Hammondsport. The lake sports a number of wineries, and many riders follow the course of the old Glenn Curtiss bike race, which brings the riders past virtually all of the wineries.

Canandaigua: At 15 miles, Canandaigua is shorter than Keuka, although it contains a greater volume of water. This is one of the region's northernmost lakes, and the lake's proximity to the flats surrounding Lake Ontario has an enormous impact on the topography. While the city of Canandaigua, on the lake's northern tip, is hardly flat, it lacks the large hills seen near the northern villages of other lakes. The south western shore boasts some of the region's most fearsome climbs, including the dreaded Triple Kneebiter. The wine making town of Naples lies several miles to the south, and boasting a number of tough climbs as well.

Honeoye: One of the smallest lakes in the region, and certainly the most shallow, Honeoye is surrounded by tall hills. Route 20a presents cyclists with long, if not especially steep climbs to the east and west. Jersey Hill, which connects West Lake Road (C.R. 36) to Richmond Center Road (C.R. 37) is a different story.

Bristol Mountain is several miles southeast of Honeoye, and the hills surrounding the resort can be quite challenging.

Canadice: Along with Hemlock, Canadice Lake is a reservoir for the City of Rochester. As such, Canadice and Hemlock are the only undeveloped lakes in the region. One must climb some form of hill simply to reach Canadice, which is the smallest and highest of all the Finger Lakes. The lake's west side has a dirt road which is open to hikers (be sure to check with the Department of Environmental Conservation to ascertain access and visitation rules). The primary road, Canadice Lake Road, runs along the lake's eastern shore. Burch Hill Road connects the lake road to County Road 37, near Canadice.

Hemlock: A relatively long lake, Hemlock is in many respects less accessible than Canadice, although there are some good park and boat launch facilities maintained by the state. The town of Hemlock is several miles to the north, while Springwater, home of the tough East Street climb, lies to the south.

A note about the maps: I've included a series of more detailed contemporary maps I pulled off Mapquest on a separate page. Click on the map to the left for more detailed views of each lake or town described above.

The topographical maps below are available through the University of New Hampshire's library.

Honeoye and Canadice

Honeoye, NY lies in a valley that runs south to north. Route 20A runs on an east west path through the town, taking you to route 64 to the east, and Hemlock and Geneseo to the west. The map above shows the western route out of town. The climb essentially comes in three stages: a mild climb up main street, a second climb the starts around the Valley Inn at the corner of 20A and County Road 37, and a third climb that starts in the gully of Whetstone Creek. If you were to start in Honeoye, at the school or Shur Fine, the ascent is roughly 3 miles, including several flat sections, false flats and gentle descents. By the time you reach the crest, you will have climbed 490 feet. As you continue west, you'll descend into Hemlock if you turn right, or head south on 15a to Springwater. This used to be an interesting descent, as 20A intersected 15a in a "Y" with yield signs. It was risky, but a rider could hit 40 miles per hour, and swing through the "Y" with a great deal of speed. In the past 10 years, the "Y" was removed, and 20a now intersects 15a with a stop sign.

Overall, this is not an especially difficult ascent, as there are several opportunities to recover. The overall average for the climb out of Honeoye is 3%, with the steepest portions, the climbs beginning at the Valley Inn (at the corner of Richmond Center Road and 20a) and the Whetstone Gully each hitting 8%. The main portion of the descent into Hemlock is about 6 tenths of a mile, and hits 7%.

20A West

  • Length: 3 miles.
  • Average Gradient: 3%
  • Maximum Gradient: 3%
  • Ascent: 490 feet.

The map below shows 20A east and County Road 32, two of my favorite training climbs from the late 1980s. The climb up 20A should realistically be broken into 2 climbs, the first ascending 517 feet from Honeoye in roughly 1.8 miles, and the second climbing 100 feet in 6/10ths of a mile. The descent into Honeoye is worth the experience, provided that no one cuts you off at the intersection of 20A and Allen's Hill, at the base of the hill.

County Road 32 presents considerably more of a challenge. After an almost flat approach, the road rises 534 feet in just over a mile. Two hundred feet of the climb occurs in just 3/10ths of a mile. I used to climb this hill about 2 times a week, which would explain my strength in the hills. Of course, being 22 and weighing 139 pounds also had quite a bit to do with my love for the hills. The GVCC used to have this hill as part of a circuit race course. In 1988, I showed up early in the season for one of these races, but only one other rider came to the event. I climbed poorly, and the following season, I added this to my training regimen to improve my strength on the big climbs.

There is one brief, cruel respite in the hill. As you finish the first portion of the hill, you'll find a brief descent, then the steepest portion of the hill awaits.

If you're interested in the unusual, the Wizard of Clay Pottery Shop awaits you at the corner of County Road 32 and Route 20A.

Getting there: Honeoye is accessible from 20A or County Roads 36 (from Naples) or 37 (From West Bloomfield). Routes 15A and 64 intersect with 20A to the west and east, respectively.

County Road 32 crosses 20A at the Wizard of Clay. This approach will take you down the hill, where it is possible to reach 45 to 50 m.p.h.

If you have a hankering for pain, take Route 64 to Bristol Center, and head east. This is the approach to the hill. There is a small country store and convenience store in Bristol Center, and a bed and breakfast, if you're looking for refreshments or a place to stay.

20A East

  • Length (main): 1.8 miles.
  • Average Gradient: 5%
  • Maximum Gradient: 9% (the portion immediately out of Honeoye)
  • Ascent: 517 feet.

County Road 32

  • Length: 1.5 Miles
  • Average Gradient: 8%
  • Maximum Gradient: 13%
  • Ascent: 600 feet.

Jersey Hill Road presents the aspiring climber with a fearsome ascent. The map at right shows why: Jersey hill has an elevation of 960 feet, and tops out at 1240 feet, all in roughly 3/4 or a mile. The worst section occurs in the middle of the climb, when the road rises 200 feet in 1/4 of a mile. The average grade equals 9%, with a maximum of 15%

  • Length: .75 miles
  • Average Gradient: 7%
  • Maximum Gradient: 15%
  • Ascent: 280 feet.

For those seeking a potentially tougher climb, Cratsley Hill offers a similar grade, but with an additional quarter of a mile of climbing. I never attempted this, as it was unpaved in the 80s. Jersey was known to a number of cyclists from the Rochester area, and I'm sure that Cratsley will take its place in the pantheon of nasty climbs.

Getting there: Jersey Hill and Cratsley Hill roads are accessible by way of County Road 37 (summits) or County Road 36 (West Lake Road, off of Honeoye Lake. Both roads intersect with Route 20a in Honeoye.

Burch Hill is somewhat less known than Jersey, in part due to its location off of Canadice Lake. Roughly 4/5ths of a mile, the road scales the western side of the Canadice Lake valley. Although not as steep as Jersey, Burch hill presents the rider with a steady 10-11% grade, pitching to as much as 12-13% in the middle of the climb. The climb ends in at a small cluster of homes once known as Canadice Corners, with the hamlet of Canadice just over half a mile further up the road.

  • Length: .8 miles
  • Average Gradient: 11%
  • Maximum Gradient: 13%
  • Ascent: 450 feet.

Getting there: As the map is quite old, it doesn't reflect one significant change: the mail road (County Road 37) heading west from Canadice now curves to the south, thus shunting traffic away from Burch Hill Road. From 20a in Honeoye, take County Road 37 south to Canadice, about 6 miles. Turn right (this is still County Road 37), and continue straight rather than bearing to the left—technically, you're making a right turn. This brings you to the top of the hill, but as with Jersey Hill, I wouldn't suggest descending the hill all out, as tempting as it may be: the road ends in a "T" quite abruptly.

Alternatively, you may reach Burch Hill from Canadice Lake Road, which is also accessible off of 20a, roughly midway between Honeoye and Hemlock. The road itself is rough at points, but beautiful and relatively untraveled. Burch Hill Road is about 1/2 mile from the northern end of Canadice Lake.

Springwater

Springwater, situated on Routes 15 and 15A, boasts some brutal climbs. Among the most infamous is East Avenue, which I climbed with the Rochester Bike Club in 1989. We turned at Canadice Road near the elevation of "1518," after roughly a mile of climbing. At this point, East Avenue becomes Grouse Road at this point, and continues to rise another 380 feet over the next mile. However, the worst certainly lies in the first mile of the climb, as the road gains 552 feet between Route 15 and Canadice Road. As with so many of these climbs, the worst lies in the middle of the first mile, when the road gains 200 feet in a mere quarter of a mile, and 100 feet in one tenth!

East Avenue

  • Length: 1 mile (to Canadice road)
  • Average Gradient: 10%
  • Maximum Gradient: 19%
  • Ascent: 552 feet.

Getting There: Springwater is easily accessible via route 15 from the south and west, or Route 15a, from the north.

Naples

Naples is a beautiful town, particularly in the Fall. I didn't climb all of these hills, but I am familiar with several, particularly County Road 36. County Road 36 runs south from Honeoye before it descends into Naples, dropping 350 feet over 2 miles. As you ascend the hill, you'll see Gulick Road to your right in the last mile of the climb. If you're looking for an additional challenge, Gulick adds another 300 feet to the climb over an additional mile.

Should you choose to ride south on Route 21 or Route 53, you'll face climbs of 572' and 680', respectively. To the north, Route 21 rises some 550 feet as it climbs the hill to eventually intersect with Route 64. There are clearly several far more severe climbs, including the road up Hatch Hill.

Cyclist frequent Bob and Ruth's restaurant, located in the northern portion of the town off of Route 21. Naples is also the home of Widmer Wine Cellars, which is usually open for tasting and tours. I would recommend that you take too many samples before you attempt to scale one of these hills. Most of them are quite manageable with a pair of fresh legs, but they can be quite challenging.

Getting there: From the south, take Route 53. From the west, take Route 21. Take Route 21 South from Canandaigua, and Route 64 South from Rochester.

County Road 36

  • Length: 2 miles
  • Average Gradient: 3%
  • Maximum Gradient: 8% (the first .4 mile of the climb)
  • Ascent: 350 feet.

Keuka Lake

Branchport lies on the northern end of Keuka Lake's western branch. My first cycling experience with Italy Hill came in 1985, during my first century ride. Mark Debruycker and I left Honeoye early one July morning with the intention of riding around Canandaigua Lake. After wandering aimlessly for some time through the countryside, we began a descent toward a town toward a large lake. It suddenly occurred to me that the town we were approaching wasn't Canandiagua, but Penn Yan! My family once owned 2 cottages on Keuka Lake, so we finally had some bearings, but we still called home to avoid any more aimless wandering. After we crossed Bluff Point on 54A and grabbed a quick snack from the old Red and White in Branchport, we began the long climb up Italy Hill. We eventually made it home after adding 50 miles to our original century.

The hill rises 886' over 5 miles, but the bulk of the climbing occurs in the first 2.25 miles (780 feet). This portion of the climb ascends with a steady 7% grade.

I descended Italy Hill in 1988 during the Glenn Curtiss bike race. Our pack hit 50 m.p.h. on the descent! I wouldn't recommend this without marshals, as a stop sign awaits you at the base of the hill.

Italy Hill

  • Length: 5 Miles
  • Average Gradient: 3%, 7% over the first 2 and a quarter miles.
  • Maximum Gradient: 8%
  • Ascent: 886

Bully Hill towers some 1,000 feet over the charming Victorian town of Hammondsport. In a sense, the "true" Bully Hill climb is the road to the left of the one I've marked on the map, but this road wasn't paved in the 80s. That was fine with us, as the lesser of the two climbs was sill formidable. The major portion of the ascent rises some 500 feet over 1.25 miles, and provided quite a challenge for riders in the old Finger Lakes Classic and Glenn Curtiss bike races. The road is now dotted with wineries, and forms an essential part of the Keuka Lake Wine Trail. Hammondsport features a number of decent restaurants.

Getting there: From the north, take 14A South (off of Routes 5&20). To get to Branchport, take Route 54a out of Penn Yan. If your destination in Hammondsport, take Route 54 South. From the south, take the Bath exit off I-86 (old Route 17). Route 54 will bring you to Hammondsport; you can take Route 54A to Branchport, or you can climb up Bully Hill (Middle Road), continuing through Pultney to Italy Hill, then drop like a stone into town. From Prattsburgh, take Route 74 (accessible from Route 53, out of Naples) to Pultney and savor the view of the lake.

Middle Road

  • Length: 1.25 miles
  • Average Gradient: 8%
  • Maximum Gradient: 12%
  • Ascent: 500 feet.

The Triple Kneebiter, Canandaigua, Bristol and Naples

I'm not sure who named this series of climbs. I first heard the title from Steve Lee of the Rochester Bike Club. The trek begins with Miller Hill by Canandiagua, Bopple Hill, off of Canandaigua Lake, and Gannett Hill. Mark Debruycker and I used to descend Miller Hill, only to climb back up and repeat the descent. We took the turn at the base of the hill with far too much speed, but somehow, we never came to grief.

Miller Hill is a fairly long, grinding climb, rising 500' in 2 miles, and reaching a maximum gradient of 8%. The hill provides a decent warm up for the hills coming up. All three of these climbs are featured in the Bristol Highlander bicycle tour.

Miller Hill

  • Distance: 2 miles
  • Average Gradient: 5%
  • Maximum Gradient: 10%
  • Ascent: 500 feet

Now, the real fun begins. Bopple Hill may well be the most infamous climb in the area, and the hill's bad reputation is well deserved. This is the one climb that I never made, as I heard that the hill lost its pavement. One rumor said that the asphalt actually slide off the road! The climb begins after you pass a number of luxurious "cottages" along the lake's shore. You make a right turn, and immediately face a wall of asphalt. This is the first "step" of the climb, and it's a beast. There is a small break, but it isn't enough for much more than a quick water break before the road pitches up again. Bopple Hill gains 560 feet in that mile, and portions of the climb hit a maximum gradient of 22%. As if this isn't enough, there is a small graveyard to the right as you finally grind your way up to Route 21.

Gannett Hill, the highest point in Ontario County, comes almost immediately after Bopple. Follow Route 21 South to Bristol Springs, make a right turn, and head through town. Gannett is to the left, marked with signs for the Ontario County Park. It's a long, steady climb of 1.3 miles, with no respite. The hill rises from 1200 feet in Bristol Springs to over 1900 feet at the top of the climb, with the gradient lessening slightly in the final quarter mile (note: the road now extends beyond that shown in the map). From there, you can descend into Naples for a bite to eat at Bob and Ruth's.

Bopple Hill

  • Distance: 1 mile
  • Average Gradient: 11%
  • Maximum Gradient: 22%
  • Ascent: 560 Feet

Gannett Hill

  • Distance: 1.3 miles
  • Average Gradient: 10%
  • Maximum Gradient: 14%
  • Ascent: 700+ feet.

Getting there: Bopple hill intersects with Route 21, while Gannett Hill is directly off of Route 64. Both are easily reached from Rochester, Naples or Canandaigua.