NEW COSTUME TOPS AND TIPS COMING SOON!

        Black Sheep Bellydance Troupe

Costume making must be a pleasurable time for relaxation and a great opportunity to put in practice all the creative ideas you have. 

Take your time to choose your colors and designs and make sure you are happy with your selection before you start. Be bold and explore combinations of shapes and enjoy not only the final product but all the time, effort and energy spent to get your costume ready!   

Here you will find tips on:                                                                                                                      

01. Colors

02. Fabrics

03. The belly

04. Basic Belt

05. Bra

06. Harem Pants

07. Skirt

08. Waist Coat

09. Head Piece

10. Jewelry/Accessories

11. Make up

12. Tassel making

13. Useful links

                     Have fun! And if you are in trouble, do not hesitate to contact Graziela!

                                     Fatchance Bellydance Troupe

01. Colors

Use the color wheel to investigate the relationships of colors within themselves, but please be aware that these are just suggestions, you can combine whatever colors you want if the combination makes YOU happy! Try to make your selections by the color of our skin, hair, eyes and personal preference.

The use of gem solid colors is not only the most traditional on tribal bellydance costumes but have also a better effect then pastels.

Triadic scheme: Based on three colors. Use the color wheel and combine all the colors that are labeled 1 or 2 or 3 for your color scheme: yellow/red/blue; Orange/purple/green; pink/periwinkle/turquoise; lime/melon/bittersweet

Black, white, gold or silver can be used as accent colors (usually for belts and bras).

REMEMBER: Have fun with this color concept and take your time to decide on your colors! Also please remember that dying fabric to the colors you want is an inexpensive way to obtain the colors desired on your fabric.   

02. Fabrics

Try to develop a taste for quality fabric made of natural fibers like cotton and silk as they are not only environmentally friendly but have a better relationship with the skin. Be bold and go for one-of-a-kind imported, exotic brocades and things with metallic embroidery, embossment, beads or sequins. There are many inexpensive substitutes but make sure not to lose on quality.

Always note fabric content and washing instructions when buying so you are not surprised later with bad news like damaged/stained/shrunk fabric.

Always prewash fabric and fabric trim before cutting and sewing.

Note: In general, the following are not the best choices for troupe belly dance costumes: Lace, pastel colors, flowery stuff, most prints.  

GOOD FABRIC FOR PANTS AND SKIRTS

Silk essence, Chiffon, Georgette, Sheer Magic Georgette, Chinese Silk, Cottons, Rayon Challis, Polyester Satin, Acetate Satin, Silk Satin

General: For pants and skirts the material should be lightweight, fluid and "drapable" (opposite of stiff).

VEILS (buy 3 yards of 45" wide fabric for veil). Do not buy less yardage, even if you are short

Chinese Silk, Chiffon, Georgette, Silk Essence

HEAVIER MATERIALS FOR OTHER GARMENTS (LIKE VESTS, HIP BELTS, STRAIGHT SKIRTS, ETC)

Cotton: plain old cotton, like from the quilting department, in a solid jewel tone color is a pretty hard to beat, inexpensive ($2-3/yd), easy to cut and sew fabric for a vest-type top, or hip belt. Dress it up with fancy trims, beads and coins. It must be pre-washed!

Silk dupion: it has both nubby texture and shiny streaks in it. Hand washable. It is easy to cut and sew.

Velvets: can be made of cotton (actually called velveteen), rayon/silk, polyester, or acetate. Stretch velvet knits are also available (but see problem fabrics below). Usually velvets are available in deep jewel tones. Velvets may require special techniques for ironing, washing, and sewing to avoid messing up the plush.

Taffeta: this is usually very stiff and makes noise. If you want stiff fabric, choose polyester taffeta and avoid acetate taffeta.

Brocade is fabric that has a design woven into it, often an Eastern, exotic pattern so they can be great for costumes. Many are acetate, avoid these. Look for silk, rayon, or polyester.

03. The belly

Don't feel it is necessary to expose your tummy if it makes you self-conscious. That would tend to inhibit you in class and performance. Showing your belly or not is your choice and the dance is beautiful either way. 

Bras and belts can always be worn over a covered tummy. You can cover your belly with a top (which does not have to be necessarily tight) to the body, veils, fringes, etc.

As you look around among bellydancers' tummies, you can see that all sizes can be revealed and you may decide to do the same with your own, especially if you notice it becoming more shapely and rolling like the wave that rocked the Titanic!

Try to avoid the hip from bulging to the sides. Tight belts and scarves are not comfortable to dance either, so it is better to go a bit further above the hip line in order to give your hips a more smooth looking shape.

As shown below, a low-cut belt is actually more flattering than one that cuts the abdomen across middle.        

04. The Basic Belt

Materials

1. Paper for making your pattern (newspaper wokrs)

2. 1 meter cloth for a trial (for your rough draft)

3. 1 meter of the fabric chosen for the belt (raw silk, satin, etc)

4. 1 meter of heavy fabric (the heavier and more durable the fabric, the heavier the decorations you can put on the belt. E.g. two layers of heavy-weight denim)

5.  2 super heavy-duty hooks (coat clasps) – this is optional, your belt can also be closed with straps 

6.  Decoration (beads, coins, bells, shells, tassels, mirrors, etc)

Method

Basically you will make a belt with the heavy fabric and cover it up with the fabric chosen for the belt. 

1. Experiment with a paper pattern first. You should first complete each of these steps with cheap fabric to ensure the correct fit.

2. Measure the distance around your hips.

3. Add 1/2 inch for the side seam and the overlap where the hooks/snap closures/straps will go. Belts can close at the back, front, or side. It depends on your design.

4. Cut the outer layer to be at least 1/2 inch larger all around than the pattern so the edges can be folded over the other layers to tidy up the edges.

5. The angle at which you make the side seam can help contour the belt for a better fit. Making 2 small darts at the center of the back piece can also help.

6. Sew the belt together.

7.  Decorate belt with embroidery. Use your imagination!

05. Bra

Use any old bra, as long as the material is firm enough to hold on to the accessories (such as coins, beads, etc) and just decorate with beadwork, embroidery, fringe, or coins.

Be careful not to take apart completely a perfectly good bra. After all, a bra is made to fit a woman's body. Removing all of the straps and completely rebuilding and hoping for a good fit makes might not give you a good result.

Buying (or using an old one) a good quality, UNDERWIRE bra with sturdy cups is a must.

A cup size bigger than normal is recommendable as cups have a tendency to "shrink" after covering with fabric, adding appliqués, beading etc. It is always easier to add a little "fill" if necessary, than deal with a cup that is too small.

If the bra has elastic shoulder straps, you can remove them and make a neck strap with a nice material like velvet or something else strong. If your neck is sensitive to a non-stretching neck strap, splice an inch or so of elastic in the center under hair. Double check at this point for comfort and fit.

If the cups are too low-cut, add some fabric across the top.

You can cover each cup with one piece of decorative fabric rather than making a center seam. Start with a circle of fabric quite a bit bigger than the cup. (about 1 1/2" all around) starting at the top of cup, turning the fabric under itself, pin to cup, working around edges of cup.

Put the bra on as you go, and have someone to help you out with the pinning (when necessary).

Now you are ready to add coins, appliqués, beaded fringe or whatever.

                                                 Rachel Brice

06. Harem Pants

Almost all ethnic costumes for both women and men require harem pants. Traditionally, harem pants fall to the ankle, fold under back up to the knee, and are gathered. Lightweight cotton is recommended but almost any fabric with body and shape is acceptable.

Harem pants are worn under a skirt, or worn alone. Typically they are very full, measuring six to twelve inches or more larger than measurement of hip and thigh.

The front and back of the pants can be exactly the same. However, a slightly smaller front that dips an inch lower than the back can avoid bunchy material in front.

Variations: The side may be slit to leave an opening, which may then be outlined with decorative trim, and the two halves connected with beaded strands, metallic ribbons or other decoration.

Panels or scarves can be added front and back for vertical interest, and sewn directly on the pants, or attached to a separate elastic band, which is then covered with a hip scarf.

Materials

1. 2-3 metres of material. Two metres if the material is heavier, 3 metres if it is sheer. This measure can vary according to how “ballony” you want the haren pants to be  

2. elastic (measure just below waist line). This is optional as the waist can have a fabric strap instead of elastic

Method

1. Measure from you hip to the floor. Make sure the width of the material is at least that. The usual width is 114 cm (45") which is plenty in most cases.

2. Fold the material in half lengthwise with right sides together, wrong side facing out. Sew a seam (as shown by the dotted line on the diagram)

3. Measure your inseam (from floor to inner thigh) and mark it on the middle of the folded material. This is the crotch point. Don't measure all the way up. Leave a few inches for comfort. You can even leave the crotch at knee-level; this is the Turkish style.

4. Draw an arch, sew along this and then cut in the middle.

5.  Fold the top over to make a casing for nylon elastic (rayon elastic stretches if it gets wet). Make sure the casing will fit the elastic.

6. Draw an arch, sew along this and then cut in the middle.

7. Make casing at the ankles too, but use thinner, lighter elastic.

07. Skirt

Skirts can be worn on their own or over haren pants. Skirts must have enough fabric to fly as you turn while dancing. Skirts can be just as a circle, pointed-hem, multi-pointed, etc. 

Materials (Circle Skirt)

1. 5 metres of medium to heavy-weight ctton/Chinese silk, etc.

2. Measure from your hip to the floor and add 7 inches. For the hip circle cut out, add 2 more inches for hems. Your fabric should be at least that wide.

Method

1. Fold the fabric in half two times (cross-wise to the selvage each time).

2. Cut out a doughnut hole (measure 7" from the corner down the selvage edges and 7" from the corner down the folded edges, then cut a curve from the folded edge to the selvage).

3. Using the measurement from your hip to the floor plus 2", measure down the selvage and folded edges from the hip circle and cut out a large circle (Figure 1).

4. You should now have two half circles with a doughnut hole at the top (Figure 2). For a fuller skirt, cut out more half circles.

5. Sew the selvages of the half circles together. Openings can be left in the front, or on the sides.

6. Sew the skirt onto a band. Grosgrain ribbon is good for the hip band (Figure 3).

7. Let the skirt hang for a few days to let the bias hang out. You might want to put clothes pins on the bottom for weight.

8. Trim evenly and put in a roll hem around the bottom.

9. Most skirts have trim around the bottom, but this is optional.

       Fatchance Bellydance Troupe    Read My Hips Bellydance Troupe       Tribal Infusion Bellydance Troupe

08. Waist Coat

The waist coat is to be worn over the bra. Suggested fabrics: heavy fabrics are best. Velvet and velveteen are ideal for fancy costumes and corduroy and heavy cottons are good for field costumes. Traditionally, the vests were dark true colours, such as emerald green, ruby red, black or dark blue.

Sewing suggestions: If you use a fabric with a nap, be sure that both front pieces and the back piece are laid out in the same direction. Start with any vest pattern and on the front section curve the neckline (Figure 1A). This curve will compensate for the chest without having to put in darts. The back may need darts to fit properly (Figure 1D). Sew in neckline tabs (Figure 1B) and an underbust tab (Figure 1C. The entire vest should be lined. Not only does it look better this way, but it will wear better as well.

Trim and braid are used lavishly to decorate the vest. A narrow metallic braid (usually gold) can be sewn onto the vest in winding patterns (See Figure 2 for two of the more common designs).

Figure 3 is a sample of how a completed vest looks. Figures 4 and 5 show variation to be made to the front of the vest. The waist coat can also have sleeves.

09. Head piece

A headdress is needed to finish off any costume. Traditionally, tribal head pieces are supposed to be a turban, but many variations have nowadays became very common.

How to wrap a turban:

                              Fig. 1                          Fig. 2                           Fig. 3

Make sure the wrap is firmly tied up onto your head (hide the ends). You can always decorate the turban with coins, beads, fringes, etc.

The use of real flowers can be a very original and colorful way to decorate your head piece with.    

                                              Fatchance Bellydance                The Indigo Bellydance

10. Jewelry/Accessories i

Tribal bellydance has a lot of rich and detailed jewellery. Look for heavy, luxurious pieces, and don’t be afraid to exaggerate. You can use thick bracelets, chokers, earrings, rings, toe rings, etc.  

Jewellery can decorate all pieces from your costume, specially headdress, bras and belts.

                               Fatchance Bellydance Troupe

11. Make up

Face Make up

Supply List:

Foundation

Translucent Powder

Dark Blush

Eye Shadow: Light, Dark and White Highlight

Black Mascara

Black Liquid Eyeliner

Dark Lip Liner

Dark Lipstitck

Bindis or Rhinestones

Fake Eyelashes (optional)

Colors:

Think dark: true blacks (not brown or  gray), deep reds, and purples.

Apply foundation all over face and dust with translucent powder. fig. 1

Apply dark blush along or just below

cheekbone. fig.1

Apply light shadow, silver or gold, to entire

lid up to eyebrow. fig.2

Add dark brown shadow in eye crease

flaring out at corner of eye. fig.3

Add white highlights just below eyebrow,

under corner flare, and on top of lashes. fig.4

Apply mascara or fake eyelashes to lashes

and add a touch to eyebrows. fig. 5

Using liquid liner outline top and bottom of

eye hooking down at the nose and following flare at corner. Experiment with different line shapes. fig. 6a -6b

Set eyes with powder.

Outline lips with brown tinted pencil just

outside of lip line. fig. 7

Fill in with dark lipstick, blot, and reapply.

You can add gloss to the center of bottom

lip for added fullness. fig. 8

Using liquid liner, add tribal tattoos on

cheeks, around eyes, on chin, and on

forehead. fig. 9

Using spirit gum, apply bindis and small

rhinestones to corners of eyes, forehead,

and cheeks. fig. 9

Remember, this is just a guide. Everyone’s face is different and so is everyone’s style.

Always keep in mind the lighting and distance your face will be seen at. The darker and

cleaner the lines, the more dramatic they will appear. Experiment and have fun!

You can decorate your hands, belly, feet etc as you wish, including henna paintings.

                                                               Ideas from The Henna Girl

12. Tassel making

Material:

• wool
• 2 cardboard pieces
• scissors
• accessories (shells, bells, beads, etc)

Tie strands tightly together around top. Us

Cut two cardboard pieces the length of tassel desired. Holding cardboard together, place a 12" length of yarn across top of cardboard. Wind yarn several times around cardboard.

Tie strands tightly around top. Using sharp sissors, cut yarn between the two cardboard pieces.

Wrap a piece of yarn tightly around strands a few times about 1" below top, securing ends with a knot. Trim ends of tassel. Decorate as you wish by hanging beads, bells, etc.

13. Useful links

Please ckeck "Costuming" sites under the "Hip Links" navigation menu.

Good luck and enjoy making your costumes!

                                                     Fatchance Bellydance Troupe