Tahiti
Tahiti is the largest and most developed of the islands.  I  arrived very early in the morning after a six hour flight from LA on what has to be the oldest DC-10 still in service.  I think I was on it before..... in 1973.  Oh well, at least they provided free wine.  As I  descended down the steps for a short walk to the terminal, I was greeted by a man who welcomes you by  handing out flowers, a welcome, if somewhat touristy touch..  Tahiti must have the best smelling airport in the world.  From the moment you get off the plane, it smells like you're in a tropical garden.   The airport is nicely laid out and very easy to navigate.  There are taxis and rental cars just outside.  A taxi into the capital, Papeete, costs about $30 dollars for a 7 mile ride.  I took one of the LeTrucks, truck based mini-busses that run every 15 minutes. The fare was about $2. 

Papeete is a not terribly attractive mix of the First and Third worlds.  There's a great deal of neon , French fashion and Japanese electronics, and relatively little that is  truly Polynesian.  It's also completely shut down on Sundays.   Nonetheless, it does have it's charms.  The waterfront is very nicely done, and a walk along the marina is a great way to spend a few hours.  There are dozens of yachts from all over the world tied up along the quay.  It's fun to wander around and talk to the yachties.  I met two people from Houston that are documenting their voyage around the world for the Houston Chronicle.  They've kept a journal, and post it regularly.  If you'd like to see their journal click here. 

Across from the waterfront is Bougainville Park, which is very pretty.  It's one of the most picturesque spots in French Polynesia.  At its entrance are cannons from the Seeadler, a World War I German raider that ended up on a reef at Maupihaaa, and the Ze'lee', a French gunboat sunk by German Cruisers in 1914 in Papeete harbor.  There is a terrific restaurant in the park. 

At night, part of the waterfront area fills with dinner trucks offering a variety of foods, from French to Italian to Chinese, with steaks and roast pork on the spit thrown in for good measure.  It's a very festive environment.  There is a fabulous demonstration of traditional Tahitian dancing put on at the stadium on the waterfront.  Be sure to get tickets in advance, since it always seems to be sold out. 

Another spot that is not to be missed is the Central Market, a two story open air market that's filled with fresh fish, fruits and handicrafts.  Other parts are much less appealing.  There is a fair amount of trash discarded right in the streets and in vacant lots.  In short, it's no different than many cities.  Papeete is home to the only MacDonald's in French Polynesia.  Do yourself a favor and don't go there.  Captain Cook got along fine without it. So did I.  You will too.