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Published On: Dec 31, 2007 12:53 PM
Published On: Dec 31, 2007 12:53 PM
Mon - December 31, 2007
It's Back
Due to a special request, I've reposted only
the travelogue portion of my long-dormant blog. Enjoy!
Posted at 12:53 PM
Mon - April 30, 2007
Day 27: Fin
Technically, my trip ended on Day 26 at 11:57 p.m., but I never got around to posting yesterday due to battery issues and a decision to shop in downtown Chicago instead of blog. Ah, priorities. Anyway, here is my official trip recap:
- First, the value: In 26 days I covered 8,789 miles on Amtrak and VIA. The off-peak (October through May) rail pass cost $709, resulting in a base per-mile cost of $0.08. Other expenses (sleepers/hotels/hostels, food, etc.) would have been spent regardless of the mode of travel (one sleeper upgrade is the equivalent of one night -- rack rate -- in an above average hotel). One way flights and/or car rentals between each city pair (KC-LA, Portland-Chicago, Montreal-New York, etc.) would have easily cost in excess of $5,000.
- Second, the scenery: 25 states and 2 Canadian provinces, countless bodies of water (3 Great Lakes and 2 oceans, Lake Champlain, Puget Sound, the Mississippi, Columbia, St. Lawrence, and Hudson rivers, the Erie Canal), mountain ranges (Sangre de Cristo, Rockies, Cascades, Adirondacks), ghost towns, missions, snow and sunny beaches.
- Third, the system: While the Northeast Corridor is both faster (110 mph between Providence and Boston; my pass did not include Acela) and reliable (I was never more than 20 minutes late between New York and Boston), the western long distance trains are more fun, relaxing, and provide more breathtaking scenery. Food is middling, at best, so if you're used to an experience above Applebee's, bring your own eats (or simply lower your standards). That being said, the long distance trains have full dining cars where you are seated with strangers (if traveling alone or with less than four people), which provides an opportunity to meet a wide variety of interesting (and not-so-interesting) fellow travelers. Separately, I should note that the coffee on all Amtrak trains is very good (the wine, not so much). The best experience of all was the Coast Starlight between LA and Portland. While it was the worst on-time performer (7 hours late), I met the most interesting people, drank more wine, and saw better scenery than any other train. Runner up was the Empire Builder for the views, but also because Stephen was along and we incorporated the perfect stop-over in Montana. I was not particularly fond of the Canadian trains, but would always choose them over driving; we plan to go on VIA's only true long distance train sometime soon -- The Canadian.
- Finally, the duration, route and non-rail accomodations: I think I timed all of my stops pretty nicely, especially out west where most trains only run once a day. I did get very lonely in Canada (the longest stretch without seeing anyone I knew), but I don't regret adding an extra day to the Montreal visit (we're definitely going back!). In retrospect, I should have skipped Manhattan, but during the planning stage it seemed unthinkable and the connection from Montreal required an overnight there (the Pod Hotel is fabulous for single travelers, by the way). Portland, Maine, seems regrettable, but primarily due to the cold and damp weather that day. I continue to stand by Hotwire as the perfect travel tool for saving money, especially on hotels. A big midwestern thanks to all of my friends who hosted me along the way!
I'll have a separate post on the public transportation experiences (best system, good deals, why buses suck, etc.). Thanks for reading!
Posted at 11:40 AM
Fri - April 27, 2007
Day 24, Part 2: Portland
I should have gone north while the weather was nice. I spent all day being soggy as temperatures hovered in the 40s and the drizzle persisted all the way back to Boston. There are probably better scenes to share of Portland than the one above, but I didn't feel particularly snap-happy. When I got back, I hit the Red Line out to Somerville for a film at the Independent Film Festival. Needless to say, I'm quite excited to be headed home tomorrow, where the temperatures are much warmer and Stephen and the kitties are waiting. I board Amtrak's Lake Shore Limited at noon for a 21-hour trip back to Chicago, where I'll catch the Southwest Chief back to KC. Once I get to Chicago on Sunday morning I'll provide my post-trip analysis on train travel in North America (you can stop salivating at any time).
Posted at 10:03 PM
Day 24: Rain and Maine
All of New England is cold and rainy today.
There's nowhere to escape to so I'm headed north to Portland on
Amtrak's Downeaster.
The picture above is of Providence's Waterplace Park that I took once we arrived there last night on the Purple Train. We shopped at Providence Place, walked around Benefit Street to look at historic homes, then had a great meal at Parkside, and then for variety took Amtrak back to Boston.
The picture above is of Providence's Waterplace Park that I took once we arrived there last night on the Purple Train. We shopped at Providence Place, walked around Benefit Street to look at historic homes, then had a great meal at Parkside, and then for variety took Amtrak back to Boston.
Posted at 06:26 AM
Thu - April 26, 2007
Day 23: Day trip to Providence
We're off for a quick trip to Providence, Rhode
Island, for dinner and perhaps a movie.
Posted at 02:22 PM
Wed - April 25, 2007
Day 22, Part 2: Boston
Finally arrived in Boston a little after 1 p.m. There were downed overhead wires (the Northeast Corridor is electrified) between New York and New Haven, so even though I was headed north, the train I was taking was delayed before it picked me up in New Haven. Unfortunately, it's much cooler today and will probably rain the entire time I'm here. I got my first ever manicure today -- while waiting for Jason to get a haircut -- and the woman clipped the cuticle on my pinky so close it started bleeding.
I'm now officially booked to head home on Saturday (arriving in KC on Sunday night). The trip is finally coming to a close...
Posted at 03:43 PM
Day 22: Yale (or... Waiting in New Haven)
Sitting on a park bench in the New Haven town green, staring at the beautiful buildings of Yale University. I feel smarter already. Above is New Haven's city hall (I take these for Stephen).
This picture is of the Solari board (they go "flap flap flap" when the train status changes) in New Haven's Union Station.
Posted at 08:26 AM
Tue - April 24, 2007
Day 21: Hartford?
I decided to extend my stay in Hartford one more day, primarily because my host in Boston (Jason) has to work all day today. Since there really isn't much to do here, I'll be taking Krystian's bike and exploring the extensive bike trail system on the outskirts of town.
Yesterday, I toured the Mark Twain House (above), where he lived in Hartford for 17 of his most productive years. After that, I walked downtown and met the boys for lunch at The Hartford Club (me, in borrowed khakis). A quick stop at Home Depot and the liquor store resulted in a relaxing afternoon of drinking wine and digging around in Nathan's flower beds. The fresh mulch looks fabulous.
A friend of Nathan's is coming over tonight to play Yahtzee -- which, aside from dominoes, is my favorite social game. Tomorrow morning I take an early train to Boston.
Posted at 06:43 AM
Mon - April 23, 2007
Day 20: Hartford
I'm sitting in the India Room at Nathan and
Krystian's sprawling Tudor home in Hartford, Connecticut. It's the best
accommodation of the entire trip (the runner-up being the Palmer House Hilton in
Chicago). I have my own bathroom with oodles of Kiehl's products in which to
bathe. Nathan convinced me to leave Manhattan earlier than planned yesterday,
which was fine as I had been traveling alone since I crossed the Canadian border
on Wednesday of last week. I started talking to myself in Montreal.
Seriously.
Since I left Manhattan early, Krystian has promised to take me shopping today to the stores I had on yesterday's agenda (American Apparel for t-shirts; Diesel for shoes). Mind you, I can't simply buy things on this trip, I must replace things... I have only a single backpack for the entire journey and I'm not about to let it get any heavier.
On a technical note, I must apologize that some of my pictures don't immediately show up. I'm using iBlog software, and there seems to be a problem uploading posts with pictures when I'm not on a speedy connection. Right before I went into Canada I got my phone working as a Bluetooth modem and I think the speed so far has been equivalent to dial-up (if I can maintain a connection).
If you're still with me at this point, feel free to leave comments. A comment is the ultimate validation for a blogger. If you don't feel like it, that's fine, but please take a moment to read this about why people do/don't comment on blogs in general.
Another side note: I am no longer holding any train tickets, so I also have to do some admin work today. While I was on the train yesterday I put all of my train trips into Excel and calculated my miles: I left KC on April 4 and have logged 6,875 miles in US and Canada. For a reference point, driving from New York City to Los Angeles and back is 5,552 miles. Along the way I've injured no pedestrians, generated no roadkill, received no speeding tickets, and was able to eat, drink, pee, and sleep the entire time. That, ladies and gents, is why I took the train.
Since I left Manhattan early, Krystian has promised to take me shopping today to the stores I had on yesterday's agenda (American Apparel for t-shirts; Diesel for shoes). Mind you, I can't simply buy things on this trip, I must replace things... I have only a single backpack for the entire journey and I'm not about to let it get any heavier.
On a technical note, I must apologize that some of my pictures don't immediately show up. I'm using iBlog software, and there seems to be a problem uploading posts with pictures when I'm not on a speedy connection. Right before I went into Canada I got my phone working as a Bluetooth modem and I think the speed so far has been equivalent to dial-up (if I can maintain a connection).
If you're still with me at this point, feel free to leave comments. A comment is the ultimate validation for a blogger. If you don't feel like it, that's fine, but please take a moment to read this about why people do/don't comment on blogs in general.
Another side note: I am no longer holding any train tickets, so I also have to do some admin work today. While I was on the train yesterday I put all of my train trips into Excel and calculated my miles: I left KC on April 4 and have logged 6,875 miles in US and Canada. For a reference point, driving from New York City to Los Angeles and back is 5,552 miles. Along the way I've injured no pedestrians, generated no roadkill, received no speeding tickets, and was able to eat, drink, pee, and sleep the entire time. That, ladies and gents, is why I took the train.
Posted at 06:59 AM
Sun - April 22, 2007
Day 19: A moment in New Haven
This guy was drawing me while we waited for trains in New Haven. I thought it was appropriate that I take his picture and post it immediately.
Posted at 01:32 PM
Sat - April 21, 2007
Day 18: NYC
Arrived in NYC Penn Station on Amtrak's Adirondack after watching the sunset over the Hudson River valley. Tonight's checklist:
1. Purchase MetroCard (done!).
2. Check in at Pod Hotel (done!).
3. Post on blog (done!).
4. Locate liquor store (done!).
5. Pick fabulous thing to do.
Posted at 07:51 PM
Fri - April 20, 2007
Day 17, Part 2: Top 5 Things I Love About Montréal
5. There's more than one Portuguese restaurant.
4. Boreale beer.
3. The subways run on rubber instead of rails.
2. Plenty of graffiti, very little crime.
1. French is a nice-to-have, but not required.
Today I made great use of my Metro day pass ($8 CAN). I hit Vieux-Montreal (awesome), Mont Royal, Pointe-a-Calliére (yawn), the Canadian Centre for Architecture (a bit esoteric, even for me), and Parc Jean-Drapeau. Last night we went on a great pub crawl hosted by the hostel. We hit at least 5 or 6 bars that were all over the map. There were at least ten of us, but I kept with the low-key crowd (the quiet Aussies, the French teacher from upstate NY, and a girl from Hong Kong).
Tomorrow morning I have an early departure for New York City. I will post once I arrive at the Pod Hotel.
Posted at 10:23 PM
Day 17: Bienvenue a Montréal
I arrived last night to the much livelier city of Montreal. Toronto was Johnson County, by comparison. I will come back to this place, without question. Gotta run now so I can squeeze as much into my full day as possible.
Posted at 08:40 AM
Thu - April 19, 2007
Day 16: Toronto to Montréal
Slept really well in my twin-sized IKEA bunk bed last night. The Aussie was a quiet sleeper, thankfully. I'm going to pass on the free pancake breakfast at the hostel and go get something more substantial. I changed my Toronto departure to 3:10 p.m. EDT since I now have two days in Montréal, so I'm going to hop on the "rocket" and find another part of town to explore. This rail pass is the greatest thing ever! I hope you can hear my emphasis.
To recap yesterday, I went to the St. Lawrence Market, the old-is-new (and we're selling luxury condos!) Distillery District (above), then went to a show at Second City.
Posted at 08:57 AM
Wed - April 18, 2007
Day 15: Toronto
I arrived in Toronto today after a speedy trip on VIA, Canada's version of Amtrak. I spent last night in a cheap hotel in downtown Windsor... an attempt to get the border crossing over with so it wouldn't interfere with my early morning train. I'm staying in my very first hostel here, so I've just finished making my own bed and chatting up my dorm mate (Mike from Perth, Australia). A quick post and now I'm off to explore Canada's largest city.
Posted at 01:30 AM