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WAITROSE
Stock rating: 7/10.
Browse rating: 7/10.
Italian wines available (store):
Red: 19. White: 18. Total: 37.
Italian wines (internet):
Red: 15. White: 16. Total: 31.
Price range:
£3.29 -£14.99.
Interesting Regions:
Molise, Umbria, Puglia, Friuli.
Most expensive:
Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva, 1999, £14.99.
MOST INTERESTING: Without doubt Feudi di San Gregorio’s stunningly floral Fiano d’Avellino (£9.99, 2002). The producer, down south in the hills inland from Naples, has a reputation that just gets bigger and better. This white is as good as any you’ll find round the country, a classy, individual, dinner table show stopper!
SUMMARY: Some first class finds in a fine Italian range. I fell in love with their red Vigna Ottieri from Molise (again produced by superstar Feudi di San Gregorio) at £6.99. And there’s a classic Chianti Riserva from Antinori ... pricey at a penny under £15 but that’s Chianti Classico for you these days. Others: Two powerful Cabernets from Sicily ... the first from rising star, Planeta, at £17.99 in some stores only, and Firriato’s version at £11.99.
Online, they make things pretty easy with a Wine Direct operation, where you can buy from a very extensive list. And in-store there are innovative ideas like an Inner Cellar Collection, fine wine cool room (certain stores), and well-priced mixed-cases.
website: www.waitrose.com/winedirect
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MARKS & SPENCER
Stock rating: 4/10.
Browse rating: 4/10.
Italian wines available (store):
Red: 10. White: 8. Total: 18.
Italian wines (internet):
Apparently none.
Price range:
£2.09 -£14.99.
Interesting Regions:
Piemonte, Sicilia, Toscana, Puglia.
Most expensive:
1999 Barolo (Vecchio Piemonte). £14.99.
MOST INTERESTING: Not too many candidates, but I got a real surprise with their Torre Scalza (£6.99) from Muntepulicano d’Abruzzo. Aged in oak barrels for six months, from the area around Pescara, it was plummy, smooth and a terrific mouthful (it weighs in at 13 degrees). One not to miss.
SUMMARY: For a store with such an excellent ready-made food market, the selection is disappointing. So what about the internet? I tried ‘Italian Wine’ in the site’s on-line search prompt and got the equivalent of an embarrassed cough and a sorry from the site. Obviously online wine isn’t part of Marks’ great plan (neither it seems are lingerie camisoles, which appear under furniture!).
On the plus side, what the stores have is good value. There are several Chiantis at varied prices depending on how big an impression you’re trying to make. Two good points: emphasis on ‘Single Estate’ wines; and the complimentary, cardboard, carry box if you buy six bottles.
website: www.marksandspencer.com
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