Left the dock at 4:00 PM about an hour later than scheduled. Nancy Cox was on board as crew for the trip down the ICW to West Palm Beach. Said good-bye the folks at the marina including my new slip mate seen on the left.
Fortunately, the wind was blowing 20 or better out of the west and we were able to make good time. Unfortunately, the anchorage I had scheduled for the night was not protected from the west. We decided to keep on going and anchored behind the island near Jones Fruit Dock. Very good protection but a very narrow channel. The wind died and we drifted with the current all night.
Note the wind was 20 in the ICW. A related weather story is coming on April 14.
The wind was dead in the early morning but by 9:00 it picked up over 20 out of the northwest. We stopped at Port Selerno for late lunch with a prospective Maine Cat buyer. Then we proceeded to Peck Lake, a wide spot in the ICW. Had a terrible time anchoring but got it right on the fifth try. The sunset from Peck lake was quite good and the wind began to die off a little.
We left Peck Lake about 8:00. Due to the narrow channel in the ICW, we motored toward West Palm Beach. This is a morass of drawbridges. But we managed to hit most of them on their opening schedule. Note to mariners, the bridge hours have changed on many of the bridges on this stretch. Some are still on demand but other have changed to the hour and half hour. The Parker bridge just before Lake Worth is now :15 and :45 after the hour.
I made a crew swap at the North Palm Beach Marina. Nancy headed back to Melbourne and Jeff McGinn got aboard for the crossing.
Jeff and I anchored briefly in North Lake Worth for some housekeeping and then went to Peanut Island, left, and waited for the time to cross.
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We left Lake Worth Inlet a little after mid-night. Wind was from the Northwest and our course was Southeast. But, we motored most of the way. At first, we had to steer nearly 140 degrees to keep our course but later the gulf stream slowed and we had to adjust course to about 100 degrees. I think the northerly component of the wind slowed the stream.
We arrived at West End a little after 11:00 AM. Customs clearance was quick.
But, could not help but notice the burned hulk across the channel. I asked at customs and they told me that it had burned at 3:00 in the morning. I'm surprised we did not see it from the stream. Those orange objects at the water line are lifejackets stuffed in the ports. They were pumping like crazy trying to float the hull but I don't think they were getting ahead of the water coming in.
We stopped briefly in the marina store, seen in the background of the ship picture. This is on the southeast end of the marina and no flow goes through. The water was cover with diesel fuel. I think if I owned one of the yachts tied up there I would have been sweating bullets.
Incommunigato is in the background at the customs dock, upper left.
Topped up the gas tanks and coolers and headed for Mangrove Cay. It was a calm night there. Hard to believe the weather Nancy and I had or even the wind Jeff and I had on the crossing.
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On a previous voyage many years ago, we found some isolated heads in the area between Mangrove Cay and Great Sale. We headed out on that course and sure enough some heads did show up. In all we dove about 8 to 10 heads and had two groupers and a snapper to show for it. To the left is Jeff on one of the structures. Just in front of him is white sand the dark spot is the head. Hard to see in the photo but obvious from the boat.
Per instructions from Amos Morse, we had dinner at Rosies. I am thinking we are at the end of the world. Just after we got our order in, a voice from the side says, "Denny?" I could not believe it . Chris and Peta Ann from the Waterline Marina. They had set sail for Bimini, Okachoobee, and then points north. Things did not go according to plan. They had a tale of going to Bimini on commercial boat and returning to find that did not solve their visa problems. So they went to Cuba, two tries the first a bust. Then off to the Bahamas. But they were out in that wind I mentioned before. The Gulf Stream was in a rage. They spent two days on a sea anchor, had to cut the dinghy loose, and were knocked down 4 times. When things subsided, they found themselves 80 miles north and made for Walkers. This night found them at Grand Cay. They were planning to go to Marsh Harbor, work on the boat, sell it, and travel to Alaska. Go Chris and Peta Ann.
Current is a factor in the Grand Cay anchorage. I think because we have no keel, the other boats reacted to it more than Incommunigato. We tended to follow the wind while the other boats followed the current. Made for some interesting swings in the middle of the night.
We are leaving town here with Rosies in the background.
The plan was I am not sure what. But with the wind now strong out of the ESE, we bailed out to Great Sale. No looking for heads in this sea.
We spent the afternoon scrapping barnacles. Both bumper keels and the lower foot of the dagger board were infested.
That evening the stove ran out of propane. But the grill was still working so, no problem Bahamas.
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On Allens Pensacola Cay we visited the site of this shrine left by some ancient civilization. Some scholars believe this was erected at about the same time as Stone Hinge. Others believe that it is from a more modern era. A small group of archeologists believe it was left by visitors from another galaxy long before man appeared on this planet.
A find I made I think will put this controversy to bed once and for all. Near the site of this shrine, I found an early prototype of an R2D2 unit. I tried to activate the droid but the eons had taken their toll on his main power switch.
So, it seems the visit by space travelers theory is vindicated. If you agree, press here to link to my Arizona Real Estate page.
I tried to find the ruins of the old tracking station that I visited in 1969 but we did not follow the path far enough. As we left the next day I found directions in one of the guides.
On the way to Green Turtle Cay we were overtaken by an island . freighter As we were under sail, we held course and he altered course to pass.
Had dinner on Green Turtle and retired to the boat for a good nights sleep. Unfortunately, a new club on Green Turtle had a pool party that night. Even thought we were a half mile off shore, I estimated the sound level at the boat at 70 dBA. Finally at 1:06, I heard the DJ say they had to shut it down. Wonder if this is an every night occurrence.
What happened to Baker's Bay? Two years ago on the charter, we anchored there with 2 other boats. This time there were more than 40 boats anchored at Baker's. Jeff and I took the dinghy around the end for a snorkel and then visited the abandon cruise ship shore facility. Kate had visited this on the charter but I had not. She had described an extensive facility but I had no idea.
On the left is a stage in their amphitheater. Jeff obliged by doing a few lines from Hamlet to provide atmosphere.
We proceeded to Fisher's Bay and anchored there. Far fewer boats. Had dinner at the famous Nippers.
Finally caught the Barometer Bob forecast this morning and ask the cruisers net where we could obtain some propane. Marsh Harbor but store closes at noon on Saturday so we are looking at Tuesday. With that in mind we headed toward Hope Town with a nice ENE wind.
Instead of Hope Town we continued down to Eddie and Patty Davis' Summerview Cottage. Were able to raise them on the radio and visit their house. What a fabulous place. They overlook Tilloo Cut and Tahiti Beach (right). By chance they had a spare gas canister they loaned us for a few days so we are back in the galley cooking business.
After lunch at Cracker P's, on the approved list, we sailed back over to Marsh Harbor and hit the grocery store.
Dropped Jeff off at Long's Landing for a cab to the airport.
Just behind Incommunigato in the anchorage is a English boat with 3 small kids on board. They get their play time in by climbing up the mast and sliding down the fore stay. I hope to get a picture of this activity before leaving Marsh Harbor.
Meanwhile, I am trying to get some chores done on the boat. This is made difficult by Easter weekend which is pretty long here. Friday had reduced or no hours in many places. Sunday, very little open and Monday is a holiday with very little open.
Not much happening on Easter Monday, a holiday in the Bahamas. I did a couple of boat chores but mostly waited for Tuesday when the stores opened.
Listening to the cruisers net in the morning I discovered that Chris and Peta Ann were in the Marsh Harbor. When I raised them later on the radio, I found them only two boats away. Chris has a long list of chores to make the boat sound again after their encounter with the Gulf Stream. He was looking to find an inexpensive dinghy when I left Marsh Harbor.
The gas fill thing is interesting. It is sort of like the old days of having a milk man. You take the tank to a designated store, write your name on the tank, give them $9.00, and leave the tank on the walk outside. The tank man comes, takes your tank somewhere, and in a few hours you go back and it is sitting on the walk full of gas.
I left on the 23rd and headed for Great Guana Cay. The hint of free internet access at Nippers got me. Sure enough, one can sit at the bar at Nippers and surf the net at high speed. Had some problems the first night. Could read mail but not send mail.
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Sharing the harbor was the Cosmic Mariner. This is the boat I chartered two years ago and helped me decide the Maine Cat 30 would work for me. I am the boat in front with the blue sail cover mostly on.
This morning, for reasons unknown, I was able to send mail and my internet access was even faster. I was even able to update my web page from Nippers Bar. I took a shot of Nippers at dusk with the ocean and reef in the background. I'll try to get a better shot.
Next adventure getting this thing to work from the boat.
I took a walk around the Guana Settlement area as far as the DolphinResort and Dive Guana. This is really a nice little area. Unfortunately, the liquor store does not have Mount Gay. Fortunately, I do.
I took the boat off of anchor today and picked up a mooring. The forecast for tomorrow is 20 to 25 and I will sleep better on a mooring.
This afternoon was scavenger hunt day. After getting my morning e-mails and verifying that the my bills were indeed getting paid, I decided to build a coffee can antenna for the computer. I thought I had done the hard part when I bought a couple of type N connectors before I left. Even have a battery operated soldering iron (not yet proven to work). But, the plan called for a 2 to 3" piece of 10 to 12 gauge wire. I started scouring the the trash beside the roads. Picked up several pieces of wire, one piece clipped off of an abandon inboard motor on the beach. Stayed tuned for the exciting outcome of this project.
Yes, the coffee can antenna is built but does not seem to work very well. About the same as the store bought 5 dBi omni. And I am not sure how well that even works.
Still at Guana. This morning brought the wind and rain that Barometer Bob had predicted. I think I am here till at least Sunday. Maybe I will do the pig roast tomorrow.
The weather has been pretty bad all day. I ventured up to Nippers briefly to check the e-mail. While I was there, the weather kicked up. Got back to the boat and almost immediately the wind kicked up to 34 kts. Unfortunately it is from the direction of the harbor entrance and we have a 2 foot swell running at the moorings. I tried to get a movie of the situation here but can't do it justice. There is a 47 foot Moorings Cat two boats down and it is hobby horsing like you would not believe.
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Calm this morning and I will stay for the Nippers Pig Roast. The weather totally cooperated with the Pig Roast. See the beach picture taken from Nipper's deck.
And, there was live music.
And there was a crowd. While I was at Nippers, I could not figure out where all these people came from. I think on Guana, everyone is at Nippers on Sunday afternoon.
When I got back to the dinghy dock, I found out where some of these folks. On previous days I had this dock all to myself. I was lucky to be able to get into the dinghy.
And then off to Marsh Harbor to meet Don.
As promised earlier. Here are two of the kids from the English boat getting ready to slide down the stays. Yes, those are two youngsters on that spreader.
I had big plans for laundry and shopping before Don's plane came in. But, it was raining hard so I just stayed on board. Then I wondered if VPJ could even fly into this stuff. Finally I broke down, put on the foul weather gear, loaded a spare set for Don, and headed for the Conch Out Bar. I found a cab in the parking lot and asked the driver if he could find out if VPJ had gotten in. He told me they just landed so I ordered a cup of coffee and waited. Twenty minutes later there was Don.
Since it was still pouring rain, we decided to eat at the Conch Crawl restaurant before going to the boat. Good move. The rain slacked off and gave us a chance to get to the boat, the grocery, the fish store, and the rum shop.
We headed out to Tahiti Beach for the night.
I could see the Coconut Telegraph signal from Tahiti Beach but could not lock up to send e-mail. Have to talk to Johnnie back at Nippers about this situation.
Stopped at Summerview Cottages to return the loaner gas tank to Patty and Eddie. Then on to Sandy Cay to go snorkeling. Anchored and had lunch while waiting for a storm to pass. It would never get out of the way so we finally headed down to Lynyard Cay and anchored there.
Tried snorkeling just south of Lynyard Cay but no luck. I think I misunderstood Eddie's direction on this.
On to Little Harbor. I had never gotten here on previous trips. Had lunch and "Blasters". Blasters are on the approved list. Best house drink I have had since the Guana Grabber of years past..
Decided to stay out in the Bight of Old Robinson. May not have been a good idea. Don and I dinghy'd into the shallows to look for blue holes. No luck but did see some bone fish. Where are you Jeff?
At 5:30 AM, the wind peaked at 37 knots, shifted 90 degrees, and the anchor broke loose. It was so dark and rainy that we could not see where we were going. Fortunately, I had mistakenly left the GPS on with the navigation line into the anchor spot. On the GPS I could see that we were being blown back up the approach line where nothing catastrophic would happen. After about 500 feet of drift, the wind dropped to 24 knots and the anchor dug in.
Don and I waited until near three the next day to move the boat and look for what appeared to be a charted blue hole. Before there, periodic storms rolled through with high winds. Unfortunately, my back up GPS went on the fritz just when we needed it for dinghy operations to find the hole. Never found it and proceeded back to Marsh Harbor at high speed. Most of the trip was at 7 to 8 knots with a strong SE wind.
No picture of the blue hole but did get this of a beautiful boat in Marsh Harbor.
Off to tour Hope Town and of course the light house photo.
We snorkeled off of the beach. Very nice formations of stuff but low on fish life.
Saw Ron Engle and Capt. Ralph in the harbor. Capt. Ralph was here to ferry a boat back to Maine. He warned that the wind always blew on his nose.
Had a mooring right off of Capt. Jacks. Hint for future cruisers. Friday night is DJ night at Capt. Jacks. Goes till about midnight.
Capt. Ralph pulled out of the harbor just a little in front of us and headed NW. Barometer Bob gave the forecast for clear skies and wind from the SE. Don and I pulled out of the harbor with Don saying what is that noise? BIG thunderstorm over Marsh Harbor area. And the wind? On the nose as we headed to Fowl Cay for a dive. As we arrived at Fowl, the storm was moving in so I continued to Guana to seek refuge in the harbor.
As soon as we got there, the storm dissipated and wind shifted back to the SE. So, we motored back to Fowl Cay for a quick dive and then continued back into the wind to Lubbers Quarters for happy hour at Cracker P's with Patti and Eddie.
Don and I awoke to a gentle wind from the SSE and I insisted we get moving quickly to make the pig roast at Nippers. Till this morning, Don had not seen anything but high wind and storms. We were able put the reacher up and booked it to Guana in short order. At one point, I had a boat speed of 5 kts. with an apparent wind of 6 kts. Don commented, "Now this is gentleman's sailing."
Did the pig roast and continued to Baker's Bay for the evening. For that we had to motor. The wind had died to nothing. When we got to the anchorage, boats were pointed in every direction. It finally sorted itself out with a south wind later in the evening.
We toured the abandon cruise ship terminal.
Did a snorkel run off of the north end of Great Guana and then headed for Green Turtle Cay.
We got there and took a mooring in White Sound. DO NOT DO THIS. There are no commercial moorings in White Sound. Soon an irate guy in a large sail boat who was going to sail up to his mooring showed up. We anchored.
Back to Marsh Harbor so Don could get his plane in the morning. Of course, the wind was on the nose so we had to motor. Okay, we could have sailed but needed to get to Marsh Harbor for some chores so we chose to get on with it. With a friendly tide, we took the route through Don't Rock passage. Hit a low point of 4.1 feet about 2 hours after low tide.
Lay day in Marsh Harbor as Don caught the plane and I did the laundry and some mundane boat maintenance chores.
Earlier in the trip, Jeff had spotted a small rip in the jib. I had been trying to get hold of Jay Manni, the sail repair guy in Man-O-War for some time. Finally arranged for him to look at the sail. Went over to Man-O-War. Unfortunately, the rip was judged too severe to fix while I waited. Never mind that the power was off so his sewing machines could not work. Left the sail with Jay and motored over to Hope Town and picked up a mooring. Jay promised to have the sail ready by afternoon the next day.
Picture at left is Hope Town Light at dusk. Not taken this day but could have been.
While Jay worked on the sail, Ron Engle worked on removing the cause of the rip. As the jib goes across, the sail hits a spreader on the front of the mast. We shortened that puppy up and re-installed the protector that was not secured properly. Ron did the brain work while I was in charge of hoisting him up by the jib halyard.
After this alteration, I hoped to have a belt and suspenders approach. Protective patch on the sail and shortened spreader.
Back to Man-O-War where I picked up the sail from Jay and then back to Marsh Harbor ready to meet Nancy Cox the next morning.
Nancy and I sailed up to Baker's Bay and went ashore to find the trail over to the other side. But first we came upon this make shift bar on the beach. Strange but after Nancy got on the boat I seem to have a lot of pictures taken in saloons. :-)
We also toured the cruise ship terminal before calling it a day.
Made a snorkel run off the end of Great Guana and then headed for the pig roast at Nippers.
Strange things happen in the Bahamas. Every trip has its odd events that surely could not happen anywhere else. As I was e-mailing and checking finances on the PowerBook near the bar, I could not help but notice a group of young women in small suits nearer the bar. Somehow, one of them caught here belly button ring on something and tore it out or through with the ends still on. She was in serious pain. But in the end, her friends were helping her get the ring back in. I have a candid shot of this but in the interest of keeping this a family friendly site, I am showing only me working at the computer at Nippers. Another saloon?
Sailed down to Man-O-War Cay for a critical garbage drop and then did some shopping there. Found Chris and Peta Ann anchored there.
Onward to Lubber's Quarters where we made a quick stop at Summerview to coordinate plans for the full moon party at Cracker P's on Thursday night.
Finally on to Lynyard Cay to anchor for the night.
We started by going back up to Sandy Cay for a snorkel. This was the first time I actually got in the water there. What a nice reef. This reef is just teaming with fish life, coral formations, and rays.
Back south to Pete's Pub for lunch. We had the old Bahamian standby of sweet and sour chicken for lunch. Hey, it was very good. Re-sampled the blasters and they are still good.
Onward in search of the elusive blue hole. We found it! The first clue that we were close was this sobering memorial on shore. I doubt the photo is readable at this size so here is the text.
In Memoriam
Jason A. Wensley
Mathew C. Fidler
Ryan C. Smith
drowned here on 2 April, 1994
Let this be a forewarning to any who would endeavor to explore these tunnelsbelow
As we looked at the memorial, Nancy noticed a swirl of foam just off the shore. We went out and there was the hole. We stayed in the dinghy and looked over the side with masks on. The dinghy turned in slow circles over the hole. The tide was falling and night was approaching so we reluctantly left and head for an anchorage at Lynyard Cay.
We got up before sunrise and motored back over to the blue hole. The objective was to get there just before high tide when there would be no problem getting the dinghy in. But, the plan was flawed. Apparently, the high in the creek near the hole is earlier than the regular tides here. Water was flowing out and there was not much water over the entrance to the creeks. And, at 6:30 in the morning, the no-see-ums were a cloud. So, it was a quick snorkel and then a hasty retreat.
We made another stop at Sandy Cay on the way to Hope Town. This time a fleet of three large Eagle Rays escorted us back to our dinghy.
Then on to Hope Town and the obligatory climb to the top of the Lighthouse. You can just see Incommunigato in the background, lower left.
We left Hope Town and sailed up to Fowl Cay for a quick snorkel. From there we had to motor back to Tahiti Beach to meet Patty and Eddie for the Cracker P's full moon party. Okay, the Bahamas guide says the full moon was on Friday the 16th. But, this was the night of the full lunar eclipse and Cracker P's probably did not want to step on their normal Friday night crowd.
We did not help close the place down but returned to the boat to watch the eclipse from the trams. Left the moon is about half obscured. Hard to take this picture from a rocking boat.
Oddly, during the last full lunar eclipse, I was on a boat doing a night dive. Two eclipses, twice on a boat -- Figure the odds.
Somehow this was a picture rich day and I am breaking format to show a few more photos. From 12:00 and moving counter clockwise.
Nancy steers Incommunigato through the entrance at Marsh Harbor
Denny and Nancy at the bar at Snappas
Shirley and Bernie at the bar at Snappas. This couple is on a boat called Simply Messing About and live in Sabastien when not on the boat. I think this is not much of the time. By the end of the evening, Nancy and Shirley had mutually adopted each other
Sunset from Snappas.
And, after the sun goes down, Nan goes out dancing.
Saturday morning and I had to say hasta la vista to Nancy.
The rest of the day was chores like laundry and some re-supply. Red Stripe for instance was down to naught.
On an amonous note, I noted that my throat was just a little scratchy in the morning.
Saturday evening I called Kate with the last of my phone card. Had one minute left. I had been on the boat most of the afternoon and rested my voice not talking to anyone. When Kate answered, I discovered I had no voice at all. Finally managed to croak out a few words and said see you tomorrow.
That night, a fireworks display over Marsh Harbor. I have no idea what for. End of the fishing tournament?
The Island Express flight was just a little late on Sunday and I was beginning to sweat bullets at the Conch Out Bar. None of the cab drivers in the parking lot seemed to know if it had come in. But, finally the Kate, Dave and Mike crew came down the sidewalk.
I don't have a picture from this day yet. Perhaps when film gets developed from this Colorado Crew I can get a scan.
We needed to buy more food and beer so we had to hang around Marsh Harbor a little Monday morning. Then we sailed over to Bakers Bay and toured the abandon cruise terminal. Here is the crew at the entrance. From Left to right, Mike, Kate, and Dave.
Bakers Bay was a bit bouncy so we moved down to Fishers Bay and went up to Nippers for a drink and quick internet connection. I had two Nippers, probably a mistake. We were the only people in Nippers. I have never seen it like that.
As we walked back, the wind was dying and we were followed by all sorts of bugs. Quickly put the screens up on the boat but were a little late. Had no-see-ums trapped on the boat. Wind speed dropped to zero.
I got up Tuesday morning and told the crew I would have to go back to Marsh Harbor and find a doctor. My throat was so bad Monday night I could not sleep. So, we left before the crack of dawn and motored over to Marsh. No wind as we started. Then it came up at 6 kts right on the stern and so it felt like we in a dead calm all the way to Marsh Harbor. Took me about 2 and half hours to see the Doctor at the Marsh Harbor Family Practice and get a couple of prescriptions filled. Seemed like a long time but I bet I could not have gotten to see a Doctor that quickly in Melbourne.
That left us time to sail over to Hope Town. For several nights, Marsh Harbor had been "treated" to a pre-sunset bagpipe concert. I could never track down the source. But, we found her in Hope Town first with a concert from the top of the lighthouse and then from the boat next to us in the harbor.
There was a plan for this day and the next. The wind was to be NE today, sail south to Sandy Cay and Little Harbor. Then the wind was to clock to the East or SE on Thursday and we could sail back. The forecast was flawless but the plan was flawed. Their was just too much wind. When we got to Sandy Cay to snorkel, there was two feet of surf breaking over the reef we were to snorkel. No way. On to Little Harbor where waves were crashing into the cliffs at the harbor entrance. The harbor looks serene here but the wave breaking in the background is near the top of the cliff.
While preparing the dinghy, we picked up a mayday from the just outside the north bar channel. I guy reported his dinghy was sinking and he believed he was going to have to cut it loose. Thought the hull was cracked but perhaps the "engines" could be saved. Dink turns out to be about a 22 foot open cockpit fishing boat. Wonder what the main boat was. Lucky Strike from Hope Town was near the problem and in the last transmission we heard was circling the dinghy trying to assess if he could get back through north bar channel.
We had anchored behind Lynyard Cay and the wind continued through the night but did clock around. I hoped that with the wind now ESE we could snorkel Sandy Cay before proceeding North. Just as we left the wind slacked a little and we head up to Sandy under just the jib . When we got there it was still breaking over the reef so we hoisted the main and headed for Cracker P's. As we hoisted the main, Kate said, "Did you hear something go splash?" I had not but there was indeed a splash.
We pulled up to drop the sail at Tahiti Beach but the main would not come down. The splash was apparently a pin holding one of the sail dohickies to the mast. When it let go, the batten behind it worked forward and was sticking out and stuck in the lazy jack line. As we tried to work the problem from below, we could watch the battencontinue to work its way forward as the sail luffed. Finally I decided the only way to get the sail down was to go up the mast. We rigged a makeshift bosun's chair (just line) and the crew hoisted me up the mast. Just as I finished getting the batten secured back into the sail, some yahoo in a 50 foot sport fisherman came by at high speed. I had to hang on for dear life.
We made tentative arrangements to make a Monday dive with them near Baker's Bay. Tim, one of the dive masters and life long resident says Baker's is much better than Foul Cay. We shall see.
They offered to pick us up in Guana so we would not have to make it back to Marsh Harbor from the pig roast on Sunday.
Met Scott Streetman at the Conch Inn. We provisioned and headed for Tahiti Beach. Again there was a plan. Have a drink at Cracker P's and then figure out dinner. But, the wind was fluky. Soon clouds started to move in and at Point Set Rock I decided to drop the sails.
A thunder storm surrounded us and we were soon in the middle of it. Could not see a thing in any direction. Some strokes were really close. You could feel the concussion from the thunder through the deck. Had to actually motor up and down the channel between Lubbers Quarters and Elbow Cay waiting for enough vvisibilityto find an anchorage. No pictures taken.
We were able to sail to the pig roast and got there in plenty of time to get a mooring in the settlement harbor. Almost as soon as we anchored the wind picked up and it started to rain. As we watched, several boats came in and either tried to anchor or tried to pick up a mooring in the storm.
Finally at about 2:30 it let up enough that we ventured up to the pig roast. There were a few hardy souls there but nothing like previous roasts.
I decided against bringing the camera up in the weather but Scott got some pictures. Scott, I was hoping for the table dancers. Did you get that one?
Abaco Dive Adventures picked us up at the mooring about 8:50 and we headed to Bakers Bay. Scott had noted Sunday that the swells were breaking near shore at Nippers. I had not seen that before.
As we rounded the end of Great Guana, Tim said, "Look at those swells!" Wave were breaking all over the place. Good time for local knowledge. Tim got us through the reef somehow and into a small patch of open water. He had to stay on the boat and drive while we did the reef.
This reef was quite good. It drops from coral breaking the surface to 60 feet in only a few feet of distance. Nice coral caves from the bottom up to maybe 20 feet below the surface.
We also made a shallow second dive. Large coral caves in 20 feet of water. I might even be able to find that spot.
Abaco Dive Adventures took this shot of Scott. Interesting perspective.
If you are in the Abacos, give Abaco Dive Adventures a try. Very knowledgeable and enthusiastic folks.
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At 7:50 I got a call on the radio from Patty at the Blue Dolphin. Could not figure why she would call. Hey, it was early. By the time I had responded to the call, I knew what it had to be. She had received an e-mail for me from Brian. I am a grandfather. Luke Isaac Scott came in at 7 lbs 15 oz and doing fine. I asked Patty to go ahead and announce it over the cruisers net.
Scott had noted that the cruiser net anchor was moored next to us in the harbor at Hope Town. After Patty read the announcement, he said he would be waiting for a cigar, not knowing that we were the next boat over. Scott and figured we had to procure a cigar and then go over to his boat. It was the best of times.
Went to breakfast at Capt. Jacks and a monster electrical storm broke out. As we sat inside, a really near stroke came down and one woman who was looking that the harbor pointed in the direction of Incommunigato and said, "That boat got hit." I asked for clarification. It was Double Vision, the net anchor boat moored right next to Incommunigato. Scott and I heaved a sigh of relief. Capt. Jack reached Pete on Double Vision on the radio. Peter and crew okay but reported that the entire boat had sparkled and some electronics were out.
Scott and I went shopping, got a cigar for Pete, dropped that off and went back to the boat to head for Little Harbor. Unfortunately, only one engine would start. I think the lightning knocked out the computer/CDI module in the starboard motor.
We tried all sorts of things to fix the motor and learned from the dealer, only 100 yards away that: He had never seen a motor like this; he had no manuals or parts, if we knew what to order it would take 4 working days to get it here; Friday was the start of a 4 day Bahamian holiday weekend; and my warranty was no good in the Bahamas. It was the worst of times.
Scott came through with this photo of the gang at Petes. In the foreground from left to right, Adam, Tanya, Helen and me. I have issued an APB on this woman in the Denver area.
After talking to the mechanic at the Lighthouse Marina, I decided that I would simply have to be a one engine sailboat till I got back to Florida.
Scott and I headed for Sandy Cay to snorkel with a plan to continue on to Little Harbor. Lots of wind. We were able to anchor behind Sandy Cay and snorkel the reef. But, there was a strong current along the reef. Caution to other divers here. Check for current before mooring the dinghy. Pick a mooring so you can swim upstream first that relax on the way back.
On to Little Harbor where we met an interesting group. Unfortunately, like a fool I had left the camera on the boat. However, Helen from Denver has my e-mail and swears she will send the photos. Scott also has some photos I hope.
We had anchored outside the harbor as I did not fancy navigating in Little Harbor on one engine. Got back late and did not get the screens deployed fast enough. Swarms of little black bugs were inside with us.
Scott and I proceeded north from Little Harbor and stopped at the ruins of Wilson City. I had seen it mentioned on the chart but there were no details. In the fourth book I looked in it showed the exact location. Does not look like much from the water there are extensive ruins there. The scale here does not show it but many of the stone walls were 3 to 4 feet thick.
I check open mike on the cruisers net the next morning and got a little information. Apparently it was once a logging operation to make pulp. The museum in Hope Town says they have extensive information. If I can I will get over there and see what they have.
Note to cruisers. If you decided to go ashore and explore these ruins, take your insect repellent. Mosquitos were thick.
Before Scott and I headed north, we got this view of Patty and Eddie's house in the morning sun. They have a beautiful location and a rental cottage. Check it out at summerview.com.
The forecast was for a wind I could sail to Guana with and we started at a 7 kt. pace up toward Hope Town. But, even as we sailed up the coast of Elbow Cay the wind was shifting and we had to tack up the coast. The plan had been Baker's Bay but with wind as it was Baker's would have made a bad anchorage. We bailed out at the Guana settlement. Again I had trouble getting the main down and discovered I had a broken batten that was hung up. Got it down and headed for lunch at Nippers. Pretty quiet there on Friday.
The wind held so we were able to sail back to Marsh Harbor.
I had been trying to raise the Miss Too for a couple of days. This morning on the cruisers net found a boat that knew their location. They were in Fox Town and heading for Green Turtle. I think this is about a day behind the original schedule.
Scott had a 2:30 flight and I did the normal Saturday things like re-fueling, shopping, and the laundry.
I headed out late for appetizers at the Summerview with Patty, Eddie, and Gary Calloway. Gary is building a house on the tip of Lubbers Quarters. I did not take my camera on the tour he gave Scott and I on Thursday. Bad move. Gary has what must be the best view in the Abacos and possibly the world. But, I have no photos. Perhaps I can remedy before the trip is over.
On the left, is a boat with an Hawaiian name. First one with the correct translation gets ... I am not sure what.
I think I should restrict this contest to the ladies and they should submit their response in person.
Contest update 6/2. I have one correct response but it came by e-mail and not in person. What to do?
I had what I thought was a winning entry. But, as noted before it was delivered by e-mail and not in person. Worse yet, in the shower this morning I realized the the entry was wrong and I in fact the translation is not, "Come on I wanna feel a ya." Thanks to the other two ladies who did respond in person but then declined to.....
The photo at the left taken with less telephoto should clarify the situation. Winners are entitled to a beer or rum and coke on board Incommunigato.
Keep those cards and letters coming.
Patty and Eddie took me out in their whaler down to the outside of Lynyard Cay. We snorkeled there for quite a while. There is some serious coral structure out there. We finally found a couple of nice hog fish out in the deeper water (20 to 25 feet). I was having trouble at that depth but Eddie nailed both of them. We later saw a really nice grouper but could never get an angle for a decent shot. He finally hid in the reef.
The three of us had part of one hog fish for dinner. I was so glad he could join us.
Got hold of Miss Too. They are in Marsh Harbor for a couple of days and some sort of engine problem. I plan to go over there tomorrow.
Monday morning and I am going no where. Big thunderstorm in progress. Started about 5:30 and continues at 10:30. Barometer Bob says it will pass and be beautiful. I am waiting Bob.
Finally got away from Lubbers about 12:30 and met Bob and Karen in Hope Town. Also got to met Ray and Alex Grogan about a 32 foot Gemini.
No good pictures today. But, bonus photo from about 1910 of Wilson City in its prime. This was a big logging operation that was started in 1908. The top part of my photo is a photo of the operation with a sketch underneath identifying the structures in the photo. At its peak it employed 500 people. I think they basically used up all the wood.
The museum in Hope Town has an extensive display on Wilson City with more photos and information about the project.
Left Marsh Harbor for Hope Town. This one engine and no crew is a drag. But, I was able to pick up a mooring in Hope Town on my own and not plow into anyone. Bob, Karen, Ray, Alix, Eden, Faye, and others from Melbourne are here.
We looked at the sites and then took a break at the pool bar at the Hope Town Harbor Lodge. Cast of characters from left to right is: Bob, Ray, Alex, Sharon and me. The view of the Elbow Cay reef is spectacular from this bar.
There was the plan again. We were to sail for Little Harbor at 10:00. But then the radio lit up. Big storm at Little Harbor. Power is out. We could see dark clouds to the south and decided to stay in Hope Town another day. There are worse things that can happen to you.
The photo is actually from the previous day. Thought I might as well admit it. Someone was sure to notice that everyone still has the same shirt on.
The waiter here was very attentive to Alex's coconut allergy and suggested not to get the bacon cheese burger as the bacon was fried in the same grease as the Coconut Shrimp, the Coconut Grouper and the Coconut everything else they had on the menu.
Another picture rich day. The rest of the fleet stopped at Sandy Cay for a snorkel. I pressed on as I was not making good time into the wind with only one motor. Worse, the vinyl was all up as it was raining intermittently.
But I got to Little Harbor in time for a bronze pouring at the foundry there. This is quite the process. Unfortunately, I got there too late to get a good position to get pictures. But, from the top and then counter-clockwise: Furnace heats up the bronze as workers don fireproof suits; Bucket with molten bronze is lifted from the furnace and a pour starts; After cooling, the mold is chipped away from the bronze; Bronze bone fish is revealed; The crews line up at Pete's Pub for a blaster.
We saw a half a tank of Blasters made and know most of the ingredients. Now the proportions?
The plan was to go over and dive the Blue Hole in the morning. But, in 20 kts of wind blowing me into the rocky shore, I could not get the anchor to hold. So back to Little Harbor where I dropped off the rest of the crew and I headed back up to Tahiti Beach. Note, Eddie says that some of the places in the Bight have 3 inches of sand with rock under it. Perhaps.
The 20 kt wind stayed with me and I was able to sail with just the jib the entire distance. How sweet it was. Somehow, at Tahiti Beach the anchor crabbed in that 20 kt wind and held immediately.
The sun was out and the water seriously blue and green on the way back to Tahiti. Photo is looking back at the North Bar Channel.
Nearly the entire fleet was in Marsh Harbor today. Lloyd and Marcia and Jack and Jackie were already here. The rest of the fleet came in about noon. We met at Snappas for the running of the Belmont Steaks. I think they had more water on the track than we have here in the harbor.
We are all going up to Guana for the pig roast tomorrow. I will be a little late as I have to wait for the Brent plane at 10:00.
Picked up Brent and we headed to Nippers for the pig roast. Unfortunately we got there too late for pig. Bob, Karen, Lloyd, Marcia, Ray and Alex were still there.
For more on Nippers, go to http://www.nippersbar.com/index.htm
This is Whit Monday and a holiday in the Bahamas. Part of a four day holiday weekend that starts with Labor Day on Friday.
We headed to Bakers Bay for some snorkeling. Also took one more look at the cruise ship ruins. Brent took me on a walk down a road behind the cruise ship terminal. The road seemed to go on forever and we finally gave it up. I think this is the road on the north end of Guana that folks asked about on the cruisers net.
Lots of Bahamians out for picnics on Whit Monday. This boat that I had seen at the Port of Call Marina showed up with about 20 people. They went ashore at the cruise ship area in serial dinghy rides.
Tuesday brought us to Green Turtle Cay. We had dinner at the Bluff House where the "First Annual" something or other fishing tournament was in progress. As we were leaving the Bluff House, they announced that a late boat was coming in with a large fish that had been a six hour fight. Because of the crowd, I could not get close enough to get a really good photo. Actually, I needed to get further back to get all the fish but then I had people in the way. This was to me a really large fish. It finally weighed in at 624 lbs and change. Note the women on the left who caught this fish. At this time she was pretty much unable to use her right arm. Note how she is holding her arm. They had to help her out of the boat as she could not use the arm to pull herself onto the dock.
In related fishing news, Brent and I caught a couple of nice yellow tails as we rounded the Whale Cay passage in the morning. They were not the size of this fish but did stick around for lunch.
Brent and I headed to Allans Pensacola Cay while the rest of the fleet took slips at Spanish Cay. I don't have any good photos from this day so here is one of the yellow tails we caught the previous day. Not 624 lbs but a very nice lunch.
Brent and I left Great Sale early. I wanted to visit some of the dive sites that Jeff and I found on the way over. They are a little off the course from Great Sale to Mangrove Cay.
Unfortunately, the weather this day was not conducive to spotting heads. But, we were able to find the large formation that Jeff and I visited. We got three snappers to agree to stay for dinner. Should have had a good size grouper also but I blew it.
As we left the dive site, we were now behind the fleet. As we approached the passage off of the banks, there was a massive electrical storm blocking the way. The boats in front of us stopped and we slowed down to let the storm move or blow out. When the coast was clear, we increased speed, looked behind us and a second storm was moving in from the rear. It was about that time that the following wind turned the dinghy upside down. (the strap on the bow of the dinghy had migrated to one side and allowed this to happen.) The gas tank went over and pulled loose from the hose fitting. The dinghy anchor deployed itself. We got all that under control and the dinghy secured. Everything good right? Wrong.
As we went back to recover the gas tank, I overshot it and hit reverse. The dinghy painter was partly in the water and immediately was sucked into the prop. Now we were down to no engines. I made a really quick dive to free the prop while the next storm bore down on us.
But, we lived and did not sink. No slips at West End so we anchored north of the marina in a spot the guides say is poor holding with big current. They have that right. With the current and wind opposing, Incommunigato did big figure eights and drug anchor all over. Finally the current changed and we got stable. I call the other boats and suggested that I did not want to be there when the current changed at low tide and 2:30 AM. Since I figured I would not sleep after 2:00, I decided to leave then and start across the stream.
We got out of West End only running aground once. It was a full moon and the tidal range was big. I tried to make the turn with my one engine but ran into a small bar I had seen on the depth recorder at high tide. (another reason I decided to get out at 2:00). Fortunately, the current was still running out and quickly swept us off the bar and out of the "anchorage".
For this passage the stream was running strong and we got a big boost going to Ft. Pierce. Caught some dolphin (the fish) and a bonita on the way back.
And, just as we got a dolphin escort on the way to the Islands, we picked up an escort off of Ft. Pierce on the way back to Florida.
Sunday was a long day. We started with breakfast for the three boats in Ft. Pierce, then motored up to Bob and Karen's place in Vero Beach. From there we had to drive back to Ft. Pierce to present ourselves to Immigration at the the St. Lucie airport. What a royal pain. They took our boat names and customs clearance number. Could have done this on the phone, but no.
I left my slip with my buddy Al E. Gator in charge. However, he was booted out and I discovered I had a new slip mate. This guy was very resentful of having to share, perched on the piling, and read us the riot act. I think he has been back and left presents for me on the boat. Guess I will have to bring him a fish sometime.
Now all I need is the plan for the next trip. Stay tuned.