We did get off early with the plan to catch up with the rest of the fleet in Fort Pierce, Faber Cove. One reason we ran late was the amount of supplies we put on board this year. Don't want to run short of anything in the outer Bahamas don't you know.
Left is a picture of the forward berth on the port side. Ain't nobody sleeping there this year. The rest of the boat looks the same. The boat is riding low in the water with all this stuff and this year's theme is therefore, "Eat our way to boyancy."
So far so good except the the crew seems to be gaining boyance faster than the boat.
Made it to Ft. Pierce and joined up with Harvey and Nancy on Stardust and Chuck and Jayne on Cea Jay. Plan is a leasurely cruise to Manatee Pocket tomorrow and dinner at Shrimper's, becoming a tradition on the cruises.
Meanwhile, the Harvey's depth finder has gone intermittent. Sound of jaws music.
Down the ICW to Manatee Pocket. Harvey's depth finder turns on and off randomly. He has been on the phone most of the morning with the following results. They can Fed Ex a replacement circuit board to a tech in Stuart and he can install it for slightly more than a brand new unit at retail would cost. Deal or No Deal? No Deal.
Finally Harvey managed to get the factory to send a rebuilt unit to meet us in North Palm Beach. Substantially cheaper than the repair.
Meanwhile, Stardust uses its keel to sound the bottom at the entrance to the pocket. Harvey goes to Peck Lake and anchores.
At the left, Chuck, Jayne, Faye and I go to Shrimpers for an early dinner. But where is Denny? I ask the waiter to take this picture and he left me out. Hell, I could have taken this picture.
Rained like a cow p..... last night. But not much wind so all the boats anchored in the pocket stayed put.
We got rolling at 8:29 and headed for North Palm Beach. We arrived at the anchorage with cell phone calls. Weather forecast says severe thunder storms this evening. Wind up to 60 MPH, possible hail. We monitor the weather radio and they are telling the same story. I am writing this at 5:07 PM. This warning expires at 7:00 and so far so good.
No matter what we expect the wind to switch to the northwest at 15 to 20 tonight. Forecast says no crossing to the Bahamas early. Maybe Monday at best.
Stay tuned.
The storm passed to the north us. Light winds from the west. Not everything is bad. Two lobsters joined us for dinner. Last from my freezer.
We left North Palm early enough but did not make good progress down the ICW. The State of Florida in its infinite wisdom changed many of the draw bridge schedules since the last time I did this stretch of the ICW. That combined with bad timing on tidal currents and we did not reach Ft. Lauderdale by dark. We anchored in a spot called Lake Santa Barbara. Turns out to be a very nice anchorage but left us with further to go tomorrow.
More high density building is going on everywhere. On the left a new complex in West Palm Beach at the Blue Heron Casusway. It includes an In/Out storage facility for you boat and multi-floor parking garage.
Out again for more battles with the draw bridges. This time we did better and got them all but one on our pace. We did have to flog the motors a bit but we made the bridges.
Currently anchored near Florida Atlantic University off of the ICW. Weather is forecast to turn cold and windy with the worst coming on Friday night/Saturday morning.
If there has ever been any doubt about flying saucers visiting earth, the picture on the left should put the matter to rest. This near the ICW just north of Ft. Lauderdale. And, if there was any doubt about their intentions while here and abducting people, take a look at the right hand side of the photo. Opps, two small. Need a real life look.
The plan is to stay here today and ride the bus to the boat show.
If you have not been paying attention to the S. Florida weather, the forecast is for the mother of all cold fronts to come through on Sunday. This accompanied by NW to N winds to 30 mph. The schedule for crossing to the Bahamas is being used in the head for appropriate uses. We will probably be in the Miami area till at least Tuesday. Better figure how to make lemonade out of this lemon.
No Wi-Fi signal to use in this area. Don't know when I will be able to post this.
Left, Ashanti at anchor near us. I told these folks come down and stay in this anchorage for a couple of months!
Think of the bus at the end of The Graduate movie. An eclectic mix. Except on our bus, twice the number of people. Things were already bad when we saw a 400 lb guy flagging the bus. The bus driver was unable to pack people in enough to allow the guy on the front. So, he opened the back door, where I was standing, for the guy to get on. I packed in and this fellow hoisted himself on. He was eating the biggest hoggie I have ever seen while on the bus and was completely obnoxious.
Meanwhile, folks who got on the bus together were getting separated and having trouble coordinating their stops. As I was at the back door, I was constantly having to herd two small kids back on the bus. They would try to get off and their mother would yell at me to stop them.
Meanwhile, up front, Marvin and his wife got separated. I don't think Marvin was in possesion of all his faculties. She is yelling at Marvin to get off at the next stop. The bus stops and Marvin turns to Faye and says what should I do. She says get off the bus. Marvin is exiting when the wife starts screaming, "Where's Marvin?" Faye says I told him to get off. Every is screaming at me to get Marvin back on the bus. What a hoot.
I could go on. It took us 40 minutes to walk back to the dinghy and we got there just as night was falling. I do believe we spent more time on busses than at the boat show. This is not a plan for next year.
The boat show trip was per plan but not per plan. We started by dinghy to a small beach in a nearby park at 8:45. It was a 30 minute brisk walk to the bus stop. The bus ride to near the show was 1 hr. We decided to go to the Strictly Sail part of the show first. Oops, 45 minute bus ride to that venue.
Talked to Dick on the Maine Cat 41 and learned about the plans for his new boat, a 38 ft. power cat. We met Harvey and Nancy for lunch and then had only about 1/2 an hour at the Sail Show before we headed back to the Convention Center. Only a half hour on the bus this time.
I went to the Mount Gay booth to complain about the rum they are selling in the Bahamas. They told me I should like it better as it is a higher proof. I offered to trade them my bottle of better stuff for one of theirs. No deal and no satisfaction for me.
But, the best(?) of the trip was yet to come, the bus ride back.
Go left for the continuation
Another front is passing this morning. It is only 60 on the bridge deck this morning. No sun along with wind and rain. Gulf Stream forecast is for 10 to 12 later today. The radio is full of traffic from the Coast Guard reporting flare sightings.
About a half hour ago we heard three horn blasts and then another three. We figured someone was dragging anchor and sure enough a small power boat was dragging down on Stardust. It stopped just short of Stardust. That was the good and the bad news. It stopped when the anchor snagged a cable. The guy was never able to get free and finally cut his anchor line leaving what he said was an expensive anchor on the bottom. Picture at the left does not do justice to the situation but it is what I could get.
Weather is still looking funky. We made a run to publix with the dinghy and met Jerry & Rachele Ross and Mike Henry for lunch at the Little Havana. This place is on the seriously approved list. On US 1 just a little south of the Sunny Isle Bridge (I think that is 826).
Jerry and Rachele were down to see the boat show and visit their son Andy, First Mate on the Mega-Yacht Mustang Sally. We had seen Mustang Sally from the bus on the way to the boat show and thought it quite the coincidence that we saw the boat. We later learned it was for sale. The owner wants a bigger boat. But, we were to hear more from Mustang Sally.
Later, Harvey goes up the mast to look at his wind instrument that has gone funky. On luck cleaning up the connector. It is still intermittent at best.
Finally we left our anchorage and headed to Pumpkin Key our jumping off place to Bimini. As we came past the Venitian Causeway, a traffic storm broke out. Both the sailboat show boats and the in water power boat show boats were leaving their slips. The bridge tender had a hard time getting the bridge back down as boat after boat kept coming through the bridge.
We attempted to gas up at the Rickenbacker Marian but again a herd of boats were there just ahead of us. Someone cut in line and a flame war broke out on the radio. We finally went to the Crandon Park Marina and gassed, watered, and iced up.
Left, the sunset at Pumpkin Key. No green flash.
We headed out of Pumpkin Key at 6:00 and went through Angel Fish Creek with a following current. Once outside we saw another boat heading through the reef and made radio contact. It was Screacher, a 39 foot trimaran. They were heading to Bimini also and we agreed to keep an eye on each other on the way.
Of course we picked this day to cross because the weather forecast was good, 10 from the south moving to the southwest. Yea right. It was NNE went we got off the shallows and we were able to motor sail on port tack the first couple of hours. All and all not a bad crossing.
As we approached Bimini we tried to raise the marina on the radio but got no response. Had tried on the cell phone last night and no response. Hope there is a slip. And there were plenty although we picked the wrong marina. See Thursday.
Dinner and fritters at the End of the World Bar, aka the Sand Bar.
This marina is next to the commercial dock in Bimini and seems like there is a lot of commerce starting around 6:00 AM. One of the major activities is refurbing a rusty tug. There the preferred method is beating on the old rust all day to get down to metal. Not clear to me that there is any.
Left is a picture of a transport that is taking dump truck loads of rubble from North Bimini to South Bimini. That's him on the left. Note that the parking brake is set, see the red circle. More on the barge later if I remember.
I decided to check the weather to see when we can get a weather window for the next phase of the trip. I can't even get the Miami NOAA station. Must be the hotel blocking the signal. But wait, the hand held VHF gets a signal. Oh no, whip on my VHF antenna is gone again. See 2004 cruise. Spend most my energy today organising a trip up the mast. Fortunately, I have a spare whip.
Big party at the next marina tonight. They are just far enough south that the noise from the commercial dock is not bad. But, they have to pay lower rates there. Met a bunch of nice folks who are going our general direction but not on our schedule.
During the party, a mega-yacht came in and tied up to the dock at the Big Game Club. Could not make out the name but it looked like it ended in Sally. Hmmm.
Careful what you wish for. Now the radio is working fine but the forecasts it is receiving are terrible. Better to not have a forecast. Looks like the weather is not going to cooperate with my cruise plan. First chance for me to move is Sunday, maybe.
Went down to the Big Game Club and sure enough. It was Mustang Sally. We talked to Andy briefly just to say hello.
More work on the boat today. The stairs on the port side are flexing when walked on and trying to pull away from the hull. Cleaned out all the original caulk and replaced it with 5200. I think that will put the problem to rest.
Just as we started to the Atalantic Beach for the sunset, Andy pulled up in the Mustang Sally tender and gave us a nice fish. We missed the sunset by 1 minute but it was worth it. After the sunset the crew from the next marina followed us down to the End of the World Bar for drinks and fritters.
Fish for lunch today and enough left over for another meal later on.
The perfect storm arose for that little transport this afternoon. Here is the picture (but no photo). He pulls out from the north side of the commercial dock. There are now boats rafted up 4 deep on the east side of the dock. The wind is 22 out of the east so he can barely make way backing out. With no speed, the tugs has little stearage. But the propeller is moving the strern south into the rafted up boats. He goes back forward and tries again. This time he gets further but that gets his stern into the tidal current flow which is carrying him into the rafted up boats. He finally guns it forward but to get the bow away from the raft up his stern swings into the old tug they have been working on. What a clang. I think he took more rust off in 1 second than a crew of six could knock off in a week. He made it out on the next try.
Faye and I went back to the End of the World Bar with a bunch of folks from the next marina. This group chased us across the banks and caught us at the NW Channel Beacon. That's Sheri, the new bartender, serving the drinks.
I am getting Bimini Fever and am way ready to leave. A cruise ship came in this morning and the streets are covered with tourists. The ship is from the UK and is on a two month cruise. Faye chatted with one fellow who says he doesn't even know what island he is on any more. The straw market has twice the goods today as ever seen before.
Just before we are going to leave, a boat in the other marina heads out and barely makes it. The wind is not cooperating and we are essentially pinned on the dock. Finally I enlist the aid of a dockhand at the marina. He proposes a strategy and with his strength and experience we get off the dock and away without a bump.
The plan is to anchor in the lee of Cat Cay tonight and then sail the banks tomorrow in a nice, 10 to 15, south wind.
Left, Cat Cay. This place seems to be blossoming and they are building houses and landscaping. Note the abundance of coconut palms.
The Drifter is a small sea anchor type device. You deploy it off of the stern in situations where the current and wind are in a fight making it difficult to set the anchor and know where the boat is going to pull. With the drifter in the water, the current wins usless there is really a strong wind.
It worked well in this case keeping the boat into the current and tension on the anchor line. One hitch, when the current changes, so does the direction of the boat. Actually two hitches. Since the boat is not aligned to the wind, the waves are not typically on the bow. Can make for a rock and roll night.
The plan was to get up early, 4:30, and try to get to Andros or Chub Cay before dark. There were too flaws in this plan. First, I set the alarm time on the GPS to 4:30 but then did not turn the alarm on. So, we awoke about 5:30. Second, what awoke us was wind roaring through the rigging. This was no 10 to 15. We put off our departure.
Finally got off about 8:00 and shortly thereafter got the sails up and became a sail boat for the first time on this trip. It was a good day sailing but we did not make the NW Channel Beacon before dark so I pulled over and anchored on the banks. Two mistakes here.
1, We were close enough to the edge of the banks that there was a significant current. Had some fun anchoring but finally got settled and for the first time I deployed the "Drifter."
2, I did not pull far enough away from the channel between NW Channel Beacon and the Cat Cay waypoint. Hey, we hardly saw any other traffic all day.
The trash got dumped. Both phone booths have been knocked down by errant fork lift operators. The ice machine outside the store was one solid block of ice. No chance to get anything out of there except a baricuda that had recent been stuffed in. Plan to leave tomorrow for Fresh Creek.
Today we did get up at 4:30, but not because of a GPS alarm. It was a Faye alarm.
Faye woke me to tell me that we were about to be run over by a host of freighter/tanker traffic. I don't know why they all came at once but it was a traffic jam. Faye does not tolerate big ships well and was convinced that all of them were targeting us. Fortunately, they all missed. Faye is convinced that it was only because she got me up and I flashed the traffic with my search light.
Finally got back to sleep about 6:00 and then rolled out again about 8:00.
By nine we were ready to get moving. Faye looked up and here came the fleet from Bimini under full sail. We got going and they caught us just at the NW Channel Beacon of course just as we met a tanker coming in the other direction. Left, the fleet or part of it.
Stopped at my favorite fishing hole. Not quite so good this year. I saw a small hog fish and two nice groupers but they would not let me get close. I finally settled for a nice sized trigger fish who joined us for dinner.
Before we got loaded up to get fuel a woman, Linda, came down to the boat and started chatting. In the small world of yachting this was strange. She had helped Capt. Ralph deliver a boat from Norfolk to California (not a Maine Cat). (For those not familiar with Capt. Ralph, he is a delivery Captain and does most of the deliveries for Maine Cat)
Linda said we were lucky the marina was out of fuel. They had sold their last 300 gallons to the fishing boat we saw with the cowling off. That was this morning and the boat had gotten only about a mile when it quit. Seems the fuel was heavily laced with water. The crew with help from the marina were trying to get all the water out of the lines and get the engines restarted.
We also meet Audrey who is living on a large homebuilt trimaran on a mooring in the harbor. She seems to know everyone and everything about the Fresh Creek area.
We got our gas in the dinghy and topped off the tanks. Then about 6:00, two hours later, there was a roar from the fuel docks. One their two engines had started and there were high fives all around. Based on the weather forecast, we decided to wait till Friday to cross to the Exumas. Then we were to have wind from the south and be able to sail across on a reach. That was the plan.
8:00. So much for the plan. As I write this we are surrounded by thunderstorms and it is raining. We shall see if we make it to Fresh Creek.
We are off to Fresh Creek and should arrive about 3:00. Seas are smooth and we have a little wind to help us motor sail. This would have been a good day to head for Highbourne Cay. But, we were not in positon yet and need to fuel up at Fresh Creek. I hope to get an internet connection at Fresh Creek and update the website.
Oops. The weather turned back to thunderstorms and we are in the middle of one. One stroke was so close that the auto-pilot turned itself off. Fortunately, it came back on. I think the storm is headed south so we slowed down to let it get ahead of us. Just as we got to the entrance of Fresh Creek, the sky cleared and we could see out way in.
The plan (you know this is not going to work- right?) was to fuel up first before taking a slip. That way if we wanted to leave early in the morning we would be good to go. But, there was a yacht tied to the fuel dock and a second fishing boat tied near there with the cowling off of one engine. The dockmaster waved me to a bulk head and tied me off. I enquired about fuel and he told me there were out of gasoline but not to worry the fuel barge comes on Tuesday. Fortunately, there is a gas station across the creek and Faye had convinced me to bringing two 5 gal. gas cans on this trip. A trip to the gas station was scheduled.
We did a lay day today and caught up with tasks on the boat. A disturbing trend has emerged in the weather forecasts. Seems a front is coming and predictions are for up to 30 kts out of the north early next week. We could be pinned down. Preliminary plan is to cross to Highbourne and then go to the Exuma Land Sea Park to ride out the front on a mooring.
Meanwhile, the wind is relatively calm today. In the afternoon I called the Land Sea Park on the phone and requested a mooring for Saturday night. Judy, the park organizer, told me I should call tomorrow as they did reservations one day in advance. I explained that I would be off at the crack of dawn in the morning and probably not be in radio range on Friday. She said she would see what she could do.
Left, a unique photo. The Bahamian Defense Force exits the brush after a training exercise at the Exmua Land Sea Park. No suspense now. You know I made it to the park.
Off we go at O-Dark-Thirty. Surprise. The wind is still southeast but much stronger than yesterday. We are unable to sail. Worse, the Tongue of the Ocean is a mess. Fool me once shame on you. Fool me twice shame on me. I should have known. The last crossing of this piece of water I had was the worst crossing I ever made. Today is now rated at number 2. The good news was that the really bad waves only lasted until we got to the banks, about 20 miles. After that it was just sloppy.
We tried several times to contact the Exuma Land Sea Park to confirm that we were on the list. No luck. We could hear the park radio but they could not heaar us.
We pulled into the little harbor at the north end of Highbourne Cay. This is one of my favorite spots and is usually desserted. However, tonight a large yacht came in after us. Fortunately, he was quiet.
Make a note, when dusk comes, button up. We had a mesquito attack that was bad tonight.
We did a quick stop at Highbourne for fuel, water, and trash. Then on to the Exuma Land Sea Park where we did have a mooring waiting.
Saturday night they have a get together on the beach where folks get a chance to meet and swap sailing lies. That's the group or part of it from Saturday night.
Every time I visit this place I am amazed at the beauty here. I don't think I can capture it on film although I have tried in previous years. I'll try for a picture tomorrow.
There was a partial eclipse of the moon list night. I tried for a picture but it not work out.
It continues to blow and we stayed on the mooring at Exuma Park. My schedule to get to George Town is maybe in trouble. We plan to stay here another day at least.
My new Wi-Fi antenna get a booming signal here but the software driver somehow will not let me join up. The old system directs my browser to the sign in site. The new driver just complains that it can't find the any sites.
Okay, the quiz question for this year. What current event should my readers have alerted me to. It was important. Answer in few days. There will be clues.
We are staying at Exuma Land Sea another day as, "The Weather Outside is Frightful." The forecast does not seem to be improving. Everyday I remember the words of Harvey, "Let's go early this year." Never again.
There are new security measures at the park. The staff living area is now gaurded by a flock of killer Bananaquits. They look harmless, but.
We have to get out of here if we are to have a snowball's chance of getting to George Town. It's off to Black Point. Besides, we are getting low on water and high on trash.
We had been looking forward to Black Point and a meal at Larraine's Cafe. We finally made it at about 3:00 and called in for a reservation. It was blowing 25 in the harbor and but we were in the lee of the island. Anchor dug in instantly.
We had a fish dinner and met a charter Captain on a 40 some foot cat. He told us that this time of year they had 4 or 5 days of bad north wind and then a couple of nice days. Why did we come so early?
On the left, one of the giant lizards of Exuma Park on a 14 foot tall palm tree.
We got out of Black Point late with the intention of going to Little Farmers Cay.
One reason we left late was that the supply boat came and we hope the grocery would be well stock later in the day. Left is the supply boat being off loaded.
We had a nice Peanut Butter and Jelly Sandwich for lunch while we awaited the supply boat unloading.
We got near Little Farmers too late for me to be comfortable going in a new place. So we anchored just north at a secluded beach. No boats, good holding, good protection from the 15 kt. wind. Jeff McGinn you have loved this place.
Ah, a nice peaceful night. With the wind dropping a little I figured maybe we could go out in the sound Thursday and make a run for George Town.
Went to sleep at 11:00 AM and got back up back up at 7:00 AM Friday morning.
No pictures today. Be thankful.
The day started early, 4:40 AM. I had the most violent case of the runs of my life. I almost made it to the head. Between 4:40 and 7:00 there were several more runs to the head.
Faye was queasy also but did not the problem I was having. By 8:45 I was feeling much better and decided we should go down and have a look at Galliot Cut. I pulled the anchor up. The effort was too much. I made it to the stern but not the steps and was villently ill. As they say here, I phoned New York. (Bahamian slang for having your head in the big porcelian phone). But, the good news was I felt much better then and figured I was rid of every thing.
We got down where we could see the cut and it looked like a wall of water. Oops. For a minute I thought about going down the inside rout to Barraterre we had heard about. But after another call to New York I realized that neither of us had the strength to sail for 6 hours. Cont. left
We feel better but not really 100%. We had to wait till 9:00 to go in and pay for the mooring. While waiting we monitored the radio traffic from Galliot Cut. Several boats had been anchored there waiting for better weather. Four went out the cut and all four came back. They reported 9 foot seas. No run for George Town today.
We went into the Ocean Cabin on Little Farmers and were greeted by the owner one Terry Bain. What a delightful man. He gaves us the skinny on the backside route to Barraterre. Thirty miles to make 15 miles but on the bank.
We headed off down the bank and almost made it to Barraterre. Dusk fell before we could get there and I was chicken to do the visual piloting run without good light. We anchored off of Pudding Point. Not good protection but good holding. We had a bowl of vegetable soup for dinner. We are not quite back on our feed yet.
Faye and I are trying to figure out how we got poisoned as we are not interested in a repeat. After much pondering, we think it was the fish at Larraine's but are not sure.
The sound still looks pretty rough and we decide to pick up Bill and Gayle, our incoming crew, by car. We had lunch at the Fisherman's Inn and made reservations for dinner as we figured to get back late from the airport.
Drove to the airport and picked up the crew. When we got back to the Fisherman's Inn, it was closed. The bums. Ask about our entire experience there.
It took three dingy trips to get all the gear to the boat and we all got soaked. It was blowing 19 and there was really no protection. What a mess.
Back on board, we just had some crackers and cheese. Bill made some crack about, "at least it was not some of the recalled Peter Pan Peanut Butter." Yes, that was the news story my readers failed to warn me about. Bill, who remembers a lot, remembered the recalled lot number. Perfect match to what we had stocked up on in Florida. At least the mystery of how we got poisoned was solved, yea right.
Left, an odd sailboat from an eco-tour place in Barraterre.
We decided that even though it was going to be a rough ride, we had to get down to George Town and made for Rat Cay Cut. When we arrived, a big set of waves came in and all we could see was white water across the cut. After our initial shock, we decided we could make it if we took the recommended course and waited for the next big set and then hit it quick. Worked out okay. We had 15 miles of bad roac but it was not that bad. Three hours later we were in Elizabeth Harbor and were soon anchored up by the Chat and Chill.
As we entered the Chat and Chill, we saw the captain from the charter cat that we met at Lorraine's Cafe. Just on a whim I ask him if anyone on his boat had been ill. He looked at me like I was Kreskin (sp?) Yes, he had been sick and one of his passengers had to me medivaced. He was aware of the peanut butter recall and had not had any. Back to the theory of bad fish exerbated by peanut butter on top.
We are going to be here longer than planned. The forecast is for strong winds through Thusday, And, that is as far as the forecast goes. Lots of people holed up here waiting for weather.
Report on the net this morning is 265 boats anchored in Elizabeth Harbor. See photo opposite Sunday. That is just one direction from our anchorage. To the north it looks like a city at night from all the anchor lights.
We went to George Town and groceried up, gassed up, watered up, laundry, etc. We had taken a day slip at the marina when a mega-yacht came in. He ran aground and took 30 minutes to get into the slip across from me. He was upwind, 20 kt, and thought I might get crushed. The boat is on the left.
We went diving in the cave in the hurricane hole. Okay but no big deal. Then off to the Chat and Chill for a conch salad lunch.
It was a quiet day until about 5:00. We heard a call on the radio, Finnester, you are dragging. We said, we've seen that boat and started looking around the harbor. We should have looked right in front of us. Fortunately, he drug sort of sidways and toward Nottus. No one on Finnestaire was answering the radio. Suddenly, dinghies appeared from everywhere and boarded the boat. That got the captain's attention finally. Unfortunately, his windlass pick that moment to die. He wound up with six hardies on the foredeck pulling up his anchor. I came up with what had to be 100 pounds of bottom on it. An exciting end to the day.
Forecast for tomorrow has deteriorated again. Don't know when we will get out of here.
We went snorkling near the cave in the hurricane hole. While Bill and Gayle went exploring, Faye and I hung a pole out over the mouth of the cave. We had seen a bunch of nice snappers haning out in the cave. Big social fauxpaux. These fish are pets and we got chewed out by a local homeowner and later by the owner of the Chat and Chill (by then we had the pole stowed). He had come out to feed the fish for the amusement of some tourists.
Left, The Emerald Lady cruises by. We think this is a tour cat owned by the Emerald Isle Resort. It seemed to stay at the Exuma Marine Services dock.
We decided to cross today. I should have made the decision earlier but I wrung my hands for a while. First off to George Town for provisions and that last website update. By the time we cleared the harbor it was past 1:00.
We got into Calabash Bay with just enough light to dodge the numerous reefs on the outside. Once anchored, something amonous occurred.
Left, what looked like a normal sunset. Clear to the west and no land on the horizon. Yes, there was a Green Flash.
Those who have sailed with me know that I claim that I only got the boat to sail to various water front saloons from which to look for the flash during happy hour. Once that occurred, I would have no reason to keep the boat. Lucky for me I was not in a saloon.
We pulled out of Calabash Bay in the morning and made 3 or 4 stops to snorkel along the way. Left, Gayle found this lobster. He had just molted the night before, a mistake.
Later I found a grouper that agreed to come to dinner.
After securing dinner, we pulled into Joe's Sound. The worry was the forecast was for west wind. Calabash Bay has no protection from the west. The entrance to Joe's Sound is about the scariest thing I have ever seen. You have to snake through the very narrow passage with rock on both sides. Once in, the anchorage is very narrow and we had a hard time finding a place we thought we could swing between the shallows. The boat goes with the tidal current in here so we knew we would have direction changes. Left the hook down in the third spot we tried.
This day started way early. The pre-frontal storms moved in on us at 4:00 AM. Wind went from 3 kts to 35 knots almost instantaneously. Then it settled in 20 to 30 for 40 minutes. Fortunately, no big directional shifts and the anchor held. Back to bed about 5:00 AM.
There was no leaving Joe's Sound today. The forecast west wind that we were hiding from showed up. As the book says, the channel is impassable in west winds. You could tell that from where we were anchored. There was stuff breaking all over that inlet.
We went exploring up into the sound with the dingly and found a blue hole. Gayle, our resident scout, reported a baaadd thermocline 5 feet down and low visability.
Tonight, we ran out of water in two tanks. Not sure how this happened. But, the galley is now without running water. Got to go to Stella Maris Marina tomorrow and tank up.
The good news and the bad news was the same. I found the 15 gallons of water from the reserve tank. Unfortunately, it was in the starboard bilge. Then the starboard bilge pump blew a fuse when I ask it to get rid of the water. But, within a half an hour Bill and I had the pump working and we pumped our precious fresh water over the side.
It was near high tide so we got out of the inlet early and headed to the Stella Maris Marina for water, a garbage drop, and gas (book said water was free). They have ads they do that list all kinds of services for boaters. About half way there we thought, they would surely be open on Sunday. Right? So we radioed and ask. They came right back and said come on down. So we did.
The entrance to Stella Maris is 4 miles over the flats with "stakes" the last two miles. Not for the deep draft at low tide. When we arrived, no one there except some guys working on a trimaran. They suggested the radio but we got no response now. Finally, about an hour later we got someone on the radio who said they would send someone down to the marina. Two hours later we were out of the marina with $15 worth of water that they did not recommend drinking.
We came back up to Calabash Bay to anchor with protection from the building north to northeast winds. We had no weather forecast for 4 days.
Across from Sunday, our greeting Monday morning, a water spout getting ready to drop down on us. Fortunately it went back up before touching down.
Be careful what you wish for. I finally got a Wi-Fi signal this morning and down loaded the local forecast. It was basically the same every day. 20 to 30 from the NNE with increasing rain chances as the week went on. I fear we are going to get to know this anchorage all too well.
A little after noon we got in the dinghy and headed for Hoosie Bay. There is a report in the Explorer Guide of the Last Chance Bar and Grill. We got soaked plowing into a 25 kt wind and chop. This even in the rather protected bay. And it took much longer than expected as we had to dodge sandbars all the way. Of course the Last Chance had its last stand some time ago.
We went back to the Cape Santa Maria Club and had lunch. What a nice place. It actually is as attractive as its brochure. If you look closely you can see Incommunigato anchored in the bay.
We left the anchorage today to dive a deeper head. Bill and Gayle did a tank dive on a large head that went from 30 feet at the bottom to 8 feet at the top. Faye and I stayed on the boat to make sure we did not leave the area. Bill and Gayle reported that it was a very interesting head with some snappers near the bottom. Unfortunately, I did not download from Gayles camera and have no pictures right now. I will try to get a photo to put here when they get home and I get an internet link again. Hows about a crynoid picture Gayle?
We returned to the anchorage in Calabash bay for the night. By the time we got back it was blowing 25 to 30 again.
We pulled up anchor this morning and headed for Simms. There is a warning on the chart that the holding was poor there. We were able to sail most of the way on the jib alone making 4 t 5 kts. Finally had to motor the last leg as we turned east.
We pulled into what I thought was a dinghy landing on the beach and had a late lunch at the Blue Chip. Lots of cracked conch and fries. Turns out too much grease for Bill. When we got back to the dinghy, the tide had gone out and we had to carry it 50 yards through a mine field of old conch shells.
Not much else going on in Simms.
Gayle dove the anchor and reported it hanging by a thread. But, it held the night.
Left, a bonus picture from next Saturday, a church in Clarence Town.
Have I mentioned that it is blowing 20 to 30 most every day and night?
We pulled up anchored and made the short run to Salt Pond on Thompson Bay. We anchored in the fishing fleet because it seemed closer to the town and we dinghied in.
The first thing we noticed was the grocery. Large and very well stocked. As the crew shopped, I walked up the road to a marine store in search of a fuse. No luck on that but I stopped at the dive shop on the way back. I talked to some cruisers there, Mark and Jill. They said most folks anchored near the north end of the bay as it had more water and better holding. So noted.
After the gorcery run we headed back for the boat and moved up into the more northern area of the bay with the other cruisers.
What is that on the left?
It calmed down to 15 to 20 this morning and we decided to attempt to reach a blue hole shown on the chart. Just before we got to the hole Bill spotted a manta ray in the shallow water. Across from Thursday is a picture Gayle took from the boat.
I had never seen a manta ray before and quickly installed my camera in the underwater case, gave the helm to Faye and jumped in. Of course, the wind immediately went to 36 as I hit the water. As soon as I was in, I was disappointed. The lateral visibility was poor and the manta had no contrast. But, I took a couple of pictures anyhow. Left is one with the contrast enhanced on the computer. Before enhancement it was totally grey.
Now came the tricky part, getting back into the boat. In that wind, it was pretty much uncontrollable at low speed and was drifing away faster then I could swim. I finally got to the port steps and then made for the starboard hull where the swim ladder is. I could not make it and the boat went away again. In the end, Gayle threw me the Life Sling and pulled me back to the boat.
Friday night we went to a happy hour at Thompson's Inn. A few cruisers and a group of ex-pats showed up. Free conch fritters and pop corn. Such a deal. We stayed for dinner and ate way too much.
This morning started early with packing up Bill and Gayle and a storm coming through. Who would have thought?
I picked up a rental car and we started early for the Deadman's Cay airport. That allowed us a couple of side trips over to the Atlantic side. The ocean side was a wreck with waves breaking over all reefs. Not a place I would want to be. Unfortunately, I did not bring my camera with me.
The drive highlighted one significant feature of this island, many many churches. New ones, old abandon ones, and a couple of beautifully maintained ones from the 1800's near Clarence Town. (see Wednesday for photo)
We traded crews at the airport (plane 1 hour late). Fortunately, Kathy McGinn brought her camera and we did get some nice pictures on the way back to Salt Pond.
Left, Dean's Blue Hole. I have seen lots of pictures but it is just unbelievable live and in person. Left, a view of the hole with the intrepid mariners.
Not much happening today. The wind continues to blow.
I went up to the real estate office where they let you use their Wi-Fi during non business hours. There I ran into the crew of Spoony; Mark, Jen, Hannah, Audrey, and Lily. It took me 10 minutes of conversation before I realized they had visit the Melbourne Yacht Club for 3 days and we had met at happy hour. They send their regards to the club for our hospitality.
They informed me that a free dive record attempt was in progress at Dean's Blue Hole. That explained the float in the middle of the hole (see Saturday picture). I had notice a truck with Team Vertical Blue on it in the parking area. They have a web site I think VerticalBlue.net. Take a look.
Left, another view of Dean's Blue Hole.
Still blowing like stink so we rented a car again and went back to Dean's Blue Hole hoping to see the Vertical Blue team do their thing. But, with a slight wind shift, even the protected blue hope was a mess. There was chop in the hole and visibility was poor due to debris blown in from the ocean. No Vertical Blue folks to be seen. I attempted some underwater photos but they weren't much.
We then drove north to the north tip of the island. We drove and then hiked to Columbus Momunent on the bluff at the north end. Boy, if they want anyone to see this they should improve the road going up there. It was terrible. I was ready to turn back several times but for the most part it was one lane and you could not turn around.
Left, the monument. Probalby visited by 6 other tourists this year.
We got up early to runs some errands before we had to turn the car back in. Went to the market, the fish store, and back to the real estate office for a quick look at the e-mail and possible update of the web site. New sign on the door. No more internet access due to disresecpt of the property.
Despite the weather forecast, we decided to head back up to Calabash Bay where the better fishing and diving is. It had calmed down a little. Still, we wound up sailing on the jib alone in 20 to 25 knots apparent wind. But, we were able to make 5 kts on the jib alone most of the way. As we got close Jeff put out 2 lines and we caught two way small groupers as we passed over heads. This simply spurred Jeff on. Now he knew there were fish here.
Bonus pic from Thursday, Faye prepares for a snorkel off of Hog Cay near Calabash Bay.
Forecast is 23 out of the NE today. Forecast for tomorrow is 23 out of the NE. Forecast for Friday is - well, you get the picture.
We spent most of the day trolling today. There are really a lot of coral patches up at this end of the island. Caught a couple of baracudas and then Jeff hooked up with a 7 lb grouper, left.
With that success we headed back to the bay with the thought of actually cooking in the day light for a change. Excellent fish.
The plan today is to snorkel some of the heads up here. Right now, 7:04 AM, the wind is only 10 to 15 and the snorkeling might actually be okay.
I have a sometimes internet connection here so I may be able to update the web site. Right now I cannot get the connection to work, the signal is just too weak.
Snorkeling was indeed good. Jeff found this guy on the third head that we visited. He weighed in at 11 lbs. As he hit this grouper it headed for the interior or the head and Jeff was left holding only the rubber band on the spear gun. I was worried he was going to loss the fish and the pole spear.
Faye and Kathy were spurred on by this success and went in for a snorkel. Immediately a baracuda and black tip shark showed up. I think they shortened the exploration.
Back to Calabash Bay and anchored for the night.
Plan today is to run, literally, back to George Town. Of course the wind has piped back up. We are looking for a forecast but so far I have not been able to tap into the local Wi-Fi. Failed to connect this morning.
About a D Ticket back to George Town today. Wind about 15 to 20 off the stern. We made 6 to 8 most of the time with a max speed of 10.1 while surging wave. Left, Jeff at the wheel. I could not really capture the following sea we had.
About half way back Jeff spotted some birds working the water. We could not get to them but somehow they came to us. Just as they passed astern, both lines we were trolling went taunt. Unfortunately, it was two tunas of a type our book said you could eat but would not enjoy. No pictures. Between two fish and slowing the boat down we had our hands full.
Back in Elizabeth Harbor Friday night. Hope to upload tomorrow from town.
Last day of lobster season and here we sit. We anchored off of Volley Ball Beach last night but moved to the marina in George Town this morning early. We needed to provision, do laundry, and be ready for a 6:00 AM cab for Jeff and Kathy in the morning.
We did some last minute provisioning and got off the dock by 10:00.
Moved to Hamburger Beach.
This was a picture rich day as we hiked to the Monument.
Above, a view of part of Hamburger Beach Harbor from the trail leading to the Monument. Incommunigato in the center.
Above-left, Volley Ball Beach and two of the three hurricane holes as viewed from the Monument.
Left, Faye at the Monument. What this is a monument to remains a mystery to me.
Left below, this "trail" was sometimes a little scary.
Below, found what appears to be an airplane wing half buried in the sand on the beach. I'll try to find the story on that one. This was not a beach where one would want to put down.
The beach on the Atlantic side goes on for a couple of miles. Although we saw foot prints, we saw not another person on the beach. Amazing. It is a beautiful beach but swimming off of it would be near impossible.
We took another hike today and explored a marked trail. It identified many of the plants along the path.
On the way back to the dinghy, we came across the small cat on the left. There was a fellow and dog next to the cat. And yes, those are inflatable hulls.
I noticed an Alabama registration sticker on the boat and joking said, "Did you sail this from Alabama." The answer was that mostly he had. The boat had been built on a bet made in an Alabama bar. He sailed it off from Alabama to the Florida Keys camping on the beach along the way. Somewhere in the keys he hooked up with a home built trimaran. They gave him a tow across the stream and on to Allens Cay in the north Exumas. From there he worked his way down to George Town camping on the beaches with his dog. Down here he hooked up with another trimaran and was staying with them at nights for a while.
While I am on the subject of dogs, there is a real problem here with pet food. Many of the cruisers bought large quantites of various pet foods before they left Florida. Now they are worried about its safety. Meanwhile the local stores are selling out of what is considered safe.
We dinghied to the St. Francis resort this morning in search of ice and an internet connection. They had ice but their internet was down, don't know why.
Our plan for the afternoon included looking into a drug research program. I thought it was like ones I heard about on the radio in Melbourne. But, for this group you had to bring your own drugs. At least you know you are not getting a placebo. The outfit is known as ARG (Alcohol Research Group). Their offices are on the south end of Hamburger Beach and open at 4:30.
During the research, we met, among others, the group on the left. They claimed to know folks from the Melbourne Yacht Club. Wouldn't you know it Jack and Jacki and maybe Harvey. My memory faded as the research intensified. These folks are from Outrageous and Prairie Dream.
I had checked earlier in the week and Exmua Docking Services assured me that they would be open on Friday. Yea right. Early on it became apparent that they were not. They made a general announcement on channel 16 that boats neeeded to clear the channel as a tanker was coming in at 1:00 PM. Then when folks tried to call them back with questions, no response on the VHF.
Meanwhile, our anchorage near the Chat and Chill was becoming untenable. Never mind a forecast of 15, there was a steady 20 to 25 from near the west. No protection. Finally about noon I decided to head over to the docks and try to find a spot on the docks before the tanker came in. Others who had simple taken a slip guieded us in and we tied up. Good plan. The tanker showed up at 2:30 and deployed lines and hoses that would have prevented us from getting ot the docks.
Left, part of the fuel delivery sequence. The tanker anchored well out (hey he was aground), put down an anchor, tied one line to the dock, and then deployed a 600 foot hose to the fill pipe at the marina. On the left, a dinghy pulls the line to the dock.
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The forecast was NE at 10 to 15 and we decided to run north at least as far as Lee Stocking Island. But the wind was even more favorable and was closer to 10 from the east as we arrived at Lee Stocking Island. I decided to continue on north as we were not likely to get a better day.
Of course then the wind died down, but came to an even more favorable direction and we were able to put the reacher out. Fantastic, 8 knots apparent wind and making 6 knots up the coast. We even had a fishing line out.
Something big hit and DJ fought him for a long time and got him up to the side of the boat. I suspect about a 20 lb dolphin. Unfortunately, I gaffed him before he as really ready. With the gaff in, he gave one mighty tug and broke out the gaff and the line. But we were hopeful of another strike. See top photo left for some idea of this fish.
Shortly thereafter, I noticed the water simply exploding about a half mile off of the starboard bow. Some guy in another sail boat was blocking our move and I could not get him on the radio to coordinate our paths. Finally I slowed the boat and dodged behind him. As we got closer, the water continued to froth with fish jumping all over the place. It appeared to be dolphins (the fish) huddled around a large object that we could not make out.
When we finally got there, we still could not figure what this object was. Our first thought was a whale but it did not ever broach although it did stick its head out a couple of times. You could not have reached around that head. This was big.
On the second pass I finally identified it as a whale shark. The second critter on this trip that I have never seen before. Have a photo left from the boat but it is not great. I did not jump in here for an underwater shot.
One more hit on the lure but that fish got off quickly. As our schedule to get through the cut got close we had to break off our pursuit.
Anchored just north of Little Farmers Cay. What a day.
We went out into Exuma Sound just north of Black Point and re-entered at the north end of Staniel Cay.
Unfortunately, low tide was late and we had to dive Thunderball Gratto late in the afternoon, about 5:00 PM. The light was not great but the place is still a great dive. Left, looking up from inside at the roof of the gratto.
When I got outside I complained to another diver that the Chamber of Commerce should schedule low tide around noon to improve the light in the gratto. He replied that they were in fact working on it and should have the problem fixed by next week. Who says our complaints are not heard.
Had a nice dinner at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club.
We got moving early and snorkled Thunderball Gratto again on the morning low tide. Even better. We had better light and fewer people in the water. Some sponges on the left.
Went to town and toured the barren shelves at the two grocery stores. Then on to Big Majors Spot, aka Piggy Beach.
There were more mega-yachts than regular boats anchored off of Big Majors. On the beach there were three new arrivals in th form of three piglets. Lots of folks were up feeding the pigs so in my infinite wisdom I elected to put off the dinghy trip in and go see the pigs in the morning.
Early in the morning I snapped this picture. You may have to use your imagination here a little. See it? Yes, there is a goat in this photo. Probably about 1 pixel big.
Unfortunately, serious wind came up in the night and rather early it started pouring rain. We had been on the radio early to try and get a mooring at the Exuma Land Sea Park. We were only able to get in the Emerald Rock Mooring field. No one was leaving the north anchorage in this weather.
By noon, I had collected better than 20 gallons of fresh water. Not bad. At 1:00 the rain let up a little and we left for the park. Rained on us the entire trip. Turns out the Emerald Rock mooring field is not much protection if the wind has any westerly component. The small ketch next to us hobby horsed the entire night.
We snorkeled the small reefs near Emerald Rock in the morning. Since my last visit, they have installed small bouys on these coral patches so that they are easy to find and no anchor is required. A good addition to the park.
Rick and Patti from Faisdodo payed us a visit from the exclusive north mooring field. They were on their way to some hiking on the south part of the island.
We were able to move to the north mooring field today. We then went out for a quick snorkel of an area of reef near the mooring field. I had never snorkeled this before figuring it was not much. Of course my gear bag was left on the boat and I missed slack current. But, our team reported that it was very interesting and I hoped to give it a try at slack current in the morning.
We again snorkeled the reef near the north anchor field and I was very impressed. On one rock we found several large lobsters, several impressive groupers. snappers, and a variety of tropical fish. Left, best photo I have ever made of a blue angel.
We went on down to Norman's Cay but were unable to anchor in the harbor near the airplane wreck and finally gave it up. We anchored off the west coast near the old McDuffs. We tried them on the radio but no luck. Then, in the morning we heard that they had a "soft opening" Friday night and it was great. We were right there but did not know it was going on. Must have been by invitation.
We set off for Highbourne Cay. My idea was to snorkel the reef near the north end. I'd seen a large grouper there for a couple of years but could never track him down.
As we came into the anchorage, I saw a Maine Cat 30 near the shore. First one we had seen in two months. It was Simper Fi formerly Happy Cat. We swung by to say hello and then proceeded to try snorkeling.
Unfortunately, I did not account for the tide and a current was running over the reef. It made for a tough snorkel. I did not find the grouper.
Today had a plan. Do the iguanas at Allens Cay. Then transist to the north end of Highbourne and hide in the anchorage there from the strong south wind. There the sea plane would pick up DJ and Norma. Plans of sailors, God's little joke.
Before we even got going, DJ and I retrieved a large fender that had floated by. It had a really elaborate scheme for clamping onto the boat with an adjustable line with jammers and guides. Had to be worth a grand. We tried to raise the mega-yacht on the radio that we suspected it came from. No luck. Finally, on the way to Allens Cay we buzzed them and they send their tender over to retrieve it. We were hoping to be rewarded for our efforts with an invitation to breakfast with Belgin Waffles but no such luck.
We anchored briefly at Allens and visited the iguanas. Then just as we pulled anchor to head for our meeting with the seaplane, we were hailed on the radio. There is a Buffett song that covers this, No Plane on Sunday. And, Monday was not looking too good either. Way too much wind.
We headed for the Highbourne Cay Marina where I had reserved a slip for Sunday night. It was the only place I thought we could hide out from the winds scheduled for Sunday night and Monday. A good move as it blew like stink the whole night.
More wind. We still cannot get the sea plane in and DJ and Norma are stuck. As the forecast was not improving much, I extended our reservation at Highbourne for another two nights.
I had not anticipated enjoying the marina stay much but I was pleasently surprised. With a map from the marina to guide us, we took a walk around the island. We had noted on the map a bus stop. Seemed a bit much for such a small island but we took a look. I think we might have renamed it Sea Plane Stop.
Tonight we enjoyed a catered dinner on board. There is a service in the marina call Cool Running. Order early and they bring you food to the boat about 7:30. It was absolutely excellent. Ribs, mac&cheese, peas & rice, and cole slaw. More than the four of us could eat. On the recommended list.
I started calling the sea plane early this morning as the wind was down a little. By 10:30 it became apparent that he was not going to make it today. Too many flights stacked up that he had been unable to do on previous days. Finally they offered to arrange a plane to Normans Cay back to the south. Normans has a nice runway put in by the drug lords. It now is used as a drop off/pick up point for charters. We then arranged a water taxi from Highbourne to Normans for DJ and Norma.
Left, the water taxi is loaded and our crew goes off to meet a charter 8 miles down the Exuma Chain. Apparently this worked as we have now heard that they got home. Too bad about their bags, still MIA.
We left Highbourne before the crack of dawn this morning. The forecast was good and our destination was Royal Harbor near the north end of Eleuthera. I was also aimming to get through Current Cut with a following current.
We picked up a couple of small jacks on the way and still made the cut on time.
Royal Harbor is still a nice anchorage but. The island has been purchased and is under development. There are keep out signs posted and heavy equipment is working. The ruins are still standing and I wonder if the plan is to leave them.
The Abacos' race boat the rage being pulled to the regatta in George Town Exumas on the left. We passed them going the other way.
We stayed in Royal Harbor for the day. Some boats went out heading to Little Harbor Abaco although the forecast was I thought shaky. We heard from them on the radio and their reports were that it was sloppy.
Later Faye hailed Rick and Patti on Faisdodo on the radio and we discovered they were only a few miles out from Royal Harbor. We agreed to go into Spanish Wells on Friday to provision. Weather did not look good for a crossing on Friday anyhow.
Left, a bonus shot from, would you believe it, Highbourne Cay Marina. Faye kept her eye on this situation as in a 25 kt wind she thought she might be able to answer that age old question. Talk to her for the astounding results. And, note the boat name.
Rick and Patti came over this morning and tied their dinghy off to Incommunigato. Off we went to Spanish Wells. Anchored outside the harbor and dinghied in for lunch and some shopping. While there I also looked at a weather forecast for Saturday. Talk in the Royal Harbor anchorage was for bad weather till next week. But, I looked a forecast in the Marina and it said 8 kts from the East. What could be better for a crossing up to the Abacos.
Left, early building on Royal Island just up the coast from the harbor. I surmise that these are coffee shops. Did I mention that the rumor in the anchorage is that Starbucks is behind this development?
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Well, we aren't stupid or are we. By Saturday morning we had collected four weather forecasts. Three said it would be a nice sail to Little Harbor Abacos. The fourth said, "What, you got a death wish?"
We got up early and the wind was low. As we pulled out of the anchorage Faye noted two things. First, no other boats were leaving. Second, there was a red sky. But the weather was fine and Faisdodo was scheduled to cross with us starting in about another hour.
As we turned the corner at Egg Island, the weather was still fine but we did note a dark cloud to the northeast. Well, a line of dark clouds.
About 10 miles out it started to rain and the waves picked up. We really could not see very far. By now Rick and Patti were on the way and the radio came on. Rick was in somewhat of a panic. "Hey Denny my radar -- scratch, scratch." As I picked up the mike to reply, my gaze was directed to the starboard where appeared a giant tanker out of the storm. I said Rick, are you trying to warn me of a boat. Yea he said, appeared out of a rain storm on my radar. I deftly altered course and missed him by this much.
Shortly thereafter, we are in 6 to 8 feet but the rain has stopped. We have 15 miles behind us and I hate to turn back now. Wham, the drag on my fishing reel starts to scream. Oh great, a fish is on in this sea. We slowed and I got him to the steps. But, being wary of trying to gaff him too soon as did the last one, I keep playing him. Finally he wraps me aroung the rudder post and breaks off. I gotta learn how to land these fish.
While we slowed for the fish, Rick caught up with us and snapped these pictures of the ride. The ups and downs of this passage if you will. Somehow the photos do not capture the intensity of this trip.
About 10 miles from Little Harbor it occurred to me that the cut into the Sea of Abaco might be impassible. We had established radio contact with another boat, Wild Horses, that was making the crossing that day. He had gotten a little ahead of us and we thought he could give us a report. When we got him on the radio, he opined that he should have kept the horses in the coral this day. But, agreed to give us a report.
He later reported that the passage was rocky but quite doable. We got through and anchored at Lynyard key for a quiet night.
We thought we deserved a break today and pulled into Little Harbor for a trip to Pete's Pub. Pete left was busy reading Bahamas for Dummies and posed for this picture.
Now for the second contest this year. On the right of this picture is a celebrity visitor to Pete's. He was not high on getting his picture snapped and ducked an earlier picture. Who is this person? No entries from Keith or Brian who I consulted on this issue. I was not sure we had a good ID at first but it has now been confirmed. Perhaps hints will appear if I do not get any correct entries.
Picture again courtesy of Rick.
We left Petes to head for Tahiti Beach. Harvey from Stardust stopped by on the way back to his boat from Tahiti Beach. As a refresher, Harvey was the guy who suggested we leave early this year. Then he was not with us as we got hammered by wind and waves. He finally crossed over after Easter and avoided all the bad weather.
On Incommunigato he discovered why he has been having aches and pains since we left him in Miami. Faye presented him with this anatomically correct doll with pins and fish hooks in appropriate places. Each one labeled with a bad experience. Unfortunately, the pins do not show up well in the photo.
Today we transitioned to Marsh Harbor.
We were invited to a dinner on Island Fever, another Melbourne boat that had come over to the Abacos.
I got pictures of the food, the folks, etc. But the two in the fur coats on the left stole the show. They are cute and cuddly.
We did have a great dinner featuring Jim's Shepard's Pie. Very nice evening with no excitement.
As I opened the computer this morning, I heard a strange noise. Could not track it down immediately. Then, I saw that the hinge on the left side had failed. Looks like a metal fatigue problem on a part that is part of the screen. I spent the better part of the morning backing up critical data from the hard drive as I did not know what to expect next. From this point on the computer screen has been open and it is not really transportable any more.
We went to the Job Room for rib night. Of interest, Brown Tip the rake and scrape man is no longer playing at the jib Room. But, the limbo man is still there doing his thing.
We could not decide where to go today and wound up staying in Marsh Harbor.
Later we had dinner on Valentine.
Left a picture from tomorrow. As we crossed toward Man-O-War Cay we saw the small boat fleet from Hope Town being towed to the dinghy races scheduled for the weekend in Marsh Harbor. The Hope Town Sailing Club stores the dinghies on a floating platform and can then tow them to the location of races. Saves on land storage as well as land is at a premium.
We left Marsh Harbor about 11:00 and went out of South Man-O-War cut. I had never been out this cut before. It seemed to be a good day for it.
Once out the cut it quickly became apparent that it was not a nice day on the ocean. We were debating going back when the drag on the reel went off. I managed to actually get this fish into the boat for a change.
By then it seemed that the ocean was calming down a bit and we decided to proceed to North Bar Cut. Then it came up again. And sure enough we got another dolphin on. I got this one to the steps but decided he was not ready to boat yet. I guess that was right as he gave one mighty leap and threw the hook. I am now 1 for 4 on getting fish that are by the steps into the boat. I need instructions.
We finally proceeded to the North Bar Cut and went in. Another cut I had not done before.
Proceeded to Pete's for dinner and saved the fish for the next night when many boats from Melbourne were scheduled to get together.
We sailed back to Tahiti Beach after some beach combing near Petes. We had 13 for dinner on the fish and had fish left over.
Left, some of the crowd including Patti and Mike Henry, Paul Alexy, Harvey and Nancy Melfi, and with her head turned Faye. Note Harvey's likeness hanging over the table.
We stayed at Tahiti Beach again today. Mike and Patti Henry left Dreadnought and met John and Judy Draw at a house they rented near White Sound.
Had six for dinner on the remainder of the dolphin.
And that is all I can remember of Sunday. No pictures although when I get back I am betting that Jim Boyd took some shots that he can e-mail to me.
We had lunch at the Sea Spray Resort today. First time in all these years that I have eaten there. Very good lunch. I had the ribs and they are on the approved list for sure.
About six we were preparing to head for Stardust for a game of dominoes. Just as we were preparing to leave, the tilt motor for the port engine came on by itself. I quickly killed power to the boat.
Good news and bad news here. The good news, which is really bad news, is that this has happened twice before so I knew the cause. The tilt switches on the engine fail and energize the tilt relay. I quickly opened the wire harness going to the switch and snipped a short length our of the power wire.
The bad news was really bad. When I applied main power again, the motor started to tilt again. I had disabled a perfectly good switch and not fixed the problem. Act in haste, repent in liesure. Or is it a stich in time saves nine? Whatever, I found the problem to be saltwater in the connector that connects the engine to the helm. Bad enough but current had flowed long enough to mostly eat up the pin that supplies power to the helm for the port engine controls. I cleaned it out and let both halves of the connector soak in WD-40 for the night. On to the dominoes game.
I did not sleep much last night tring to figure out how I could fix the wiring harness problem. In the morning I investigated the routing of the harness and it looked like a new harness could be pulled through pretty easily. But, one had to have a harness.
We went into Hope Town to get a better internet connection and search for the part. Unfortunately, I could not find the part on my favorite parts site and had to settle for sending them an e-mail asking them to provide a part number.
But, all was not lost and we had lunch at Capt. Jacks, fueled up, and headed backup to Tahiti Beach.
Bonus picture left from earlier at Pete's Pub. I regale Faye and Pattie Greyson with sea stories.
Had a nice sail to Marsh Harbor this morning. This is the first of three days when the wind was near perfect for sailing to my destination. Today we averaged almost 6 kts from the White Sound Mark to the Marsh Waypoint.
Dinner tonight was on Catalyst. After asking advise from all the guests, Paul made 6 pounds of excess pasta.
Left, Rick, Nancy and Harvey on Catalyst for the feast.
Favorable winds again today as we sailed to Fishers Bay on Great Guana Cay. We paid a brief visit to Nippers and then went back down to Grabbers (Formerly the Sunset Beach Bar and Grill). They have made some nice improvements there including a gift shop and nice lounges on the beach. Unfortunately, the bugs remain and at dust the place gets bad.
Oddly, another sea creature that I had not seen before showed up. I jumped in and Faye got this picture. Lucky I had seen how to do this at Sea World.
We retired back to Catalyst and attempted to finish off the pasta.
Incommunigato and Catalyst headed up to Bakers Bay early today. For those who have followed this website, Bakers Bay was the site of the abandon cruise ship terminal for many years including my first visits. The land was sold to a developer and some crwon land was also given to the developer. They are planning a hugh complex including a golf course and marina. There is a local group who has been fighting them tooth and nail for the last two to three years. While several injuctions have been issued over the last years, work is now proceeding.
By the way, the main objection of the residents here is the golf course. They maintain that the fertilzer used will kill the barrier reef. For details see
http://saveguanacayreef.com/
After years of visiting said reef and never seeing anything to spear, I took the spear today instead of the camera. Of course the first thing we saw upon getting in was a school of squid lined up on the mooring tether. They looked like clothes pins on a line. Then Paul reported that there were some good sized fish on the mooring anchor on the next mooring over. "What are those?" he asked. Three hog fish. I couldn't believe it. It took most of an hour but one finally agreed to come to dinner.
We went on to Treasure Cay and anchored there. Added some pork steaks to the hog fish and had dinner for six.
There was method to this Treasure Cay anchorage. We wanted to attend the Green Turtle Cay Heritage Festival on Saturday. But, we did not want to take the boat to Green Turtle Cay. Why not you ask?
Between Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay is a sand bar marked by "Don't Rock". While I can ususally sail over this shoal in my boat, most boat cannot. They have to go outside into the ocean through the "Whale Cay Passage". But here is the rub, in strong winds the Whale Cay Passage becomes impassable. And strong winds were predicted. We did not want to be trapped on the wrong side of Don't Rock. Bad weather was forecast. So, we took a cab to the ferry dock on Treasure Cay (north of Don't Rock) and then a ferry to the festival.
Unfortunately, our timing was not too good as we went early in the morning. Most of the more interesting stuff was in the evening and we did not want to stay that long.
We met Lenny and Nancy Beckett and Pete Anderson at the festival. They had come down from the north.
Left, Green Turtle kids with a singing presentation. By the way, the theme of this years festival was pirates. Who would guess.
Going to the festival was a tough choice. We missed Drinko De Mayo at Pete's Pub. But, what to do.
The forecast was for 10-15 NE today and gale force tomorrow. We decided to leave early for the protection of Hope Town harbor and a mooring. Of course the wind was almost nought in the morning and we had to motor to get to Hope Town.
The Kathleen D, a Maine Cat 41 in charter service here, was on the mooring next to ours. They hailed us over and gave us the story of their week. Too much wind and too much boat. They wished they had chartered the Maine Cat 30. But they had chartered a fishing boat earlier in the week and caught dolphin and tuna. They had a bag left and were leaving so they donated it to us. Must have been 5 pounds of fillets in the bag.
Later I noticed this small sailboat aground near one of the creeks out of the harbor. I and another rowing dinghy went over and helped get him off the shoal.
It did blow 20 to 25 today and we stayed in Hope Town for the day. A little shopping and a few chores.
No pictures today, I am getting lazy. So, a bonus picture from the Green Turtle Cay Festival. Jim Boyd is held hostage by the pirates at the festival.
Another day on the mooring in Hope Town as the winds subside.
There is a new ferry service operating from Marsh Harbor to Hope Town. It is the Abaco Ferry vs Albury's Ferry that has been around since the invention of the diesel engine. Left is the new guy. They feature air conditioning on the inside and music. Loading is from the front vs the rear on Albury. Price is about the same but Abaco Ferry has a round trip price that apparently is not restricted to the same day.
This may become important later. Since I am writing this page on May 22, my precognition on this is pretty good.
Not a good day coming up. We left Hope Town with the idea of running down to Little Harbor. But first we made a stop to get the holding tank open. It had apperantly clogged while in harbor and would not drain. That accomplished, we headed south for a couple of hundred yards. Then, the starborad engine started to spin up but with no real thrust. Then it would catch again.
I had two suspisions. One, linkage had slipped or the hub on the prop had spun. It did not really seem like spun props I had encountered in the past and I was suspicious of the linkage. Seemed like the prop would operate and then quit. We diverted to Marsh Harbor where parts would be more accessable, yea right.
I examined the linkage and decided it must be the prop. I studied the manual on how to take the prop off. They show a picture. Remove the cotter pin on the nut, jam the propeller blades to the foot with a block of wood, turn the nut. I tried that and the nut turned but did not loosen. It was past 5:00 by now so I retired to think about the problem and plan my attack for the morning. By the way, it is obvious why this plan from the manual did not work. Think about it.
Okay, that is not my propeller above left. Another failure. A fan blade. Fortunately, I had a spare.
I got on the cruisers net in the morning and got the good news and the bad news. There is a prop shop in Marsh Harbor but they are out of town and won't be back till Friday.
So, why could I not get the prop off? Duh. The hub was spun. So, jamming the blade with a piece of wood did not immobilize the propeller shaft. This came to me about 3:00 AM.
Paul Alexy came over after the net with a 17 mm socket and serious breaker bar. This time we disabled the ignition, put the motor in gear, and Paul held the flywheel while I went over teh side. The nut and propeller came right off and I installed by lovely spare propeller.
Left, a bonus pic. New shirt that Faye picked up for me.
We did some shopping and headed for the prop shop. It is quite a walk. We found them in a temporary location. They took one look and said, "Oh yea. A 51 hub. Only takes 20 minutes including checking the blades for proper alignment." Then, "Oops, we are out of 51 hubs. Usually have 10 in the drawer. Must have forgotten to order them. Leave the prop and call in a week we should have it done."
As normal, there is a Buffett song that covers this situation. One line is, "Now we're runnin strictly on Island Time."
And one more thing. He said the hub was not damaged by striking anything. It was just old. Oh great. The other propeller is exactly the same age and now I have no spare. But, not to worry, ready in a week.
Left, a bonus pic from Sandy Cay. Again I got condensate on my camera housing lens. But, you can see the eagle ray with three remoras attached.
Another lay day in Marsh Harbor. We need to be here tomorrow to pick up crew so there is no sense in leaving.
Marsh Harbor is smoggie and has been for 3 days. The first day I blamed on the wind direction and some wild fires on the island. I now discover that smoke is coming from the fires in Florida and Georgia. I can barely see the harbor entrance from where we are anchored.
Paul's wife Joyce and John Martin from the yacht club arrived today from Melbourne for the return trip on Catalyst. We had drinks with them in the evening. Paul's plan is to move up to Green Turtle tomorrow and then back to Florida when the weather permits. Forecasts right now are beginning to look a little shaky. <- Watch out. This is a theme.
Paul pulled anchor early, left, and headed for Green Turtle Cay. In the afternoon we confirmed that he had made it to Green Turtle using the Don't Rock passage. He was moored with Island Time and Synergy and hoped to cross back with them.
About 3:00 our crew came in. Because of the bad weather forecast, we decided to run to Hope Town and grab a mooring. When we arrived, we discovered Capt. Ralph on the Maine Cat 41 on the mooring next to us. He explained that he was taking the 41, the Kathleen D, back north on a delivery run. But, he had crew on board or on the way and would not be leaving till Thursday. We planned to get together.
The forecast for today was 10 to 15 but increasing to 20 to 30 later in the day. Decided to stay on the mooring in Hope Town. Besides, Jeff and Susie had never been to Hope Town and if you are going to be stuck somewhere, it is not a bad place.
As a start, we climbed the lighthouse and then did some shopping. From the top of the lighthouse it was apparent that the wind was blowing hard and the ocean and Sea of Abaco were rough. We learned later that even a dog can predict this weather, ruff.
That evening, the crew from Stardust came over to share a Sundowner. Stardust now has Harvey's sister Kathy on board.
The wind is still howling and we decided to do another day in Hope Town. It's a theme fans.
I really don't recall what we did special today but this is getting tiresome.
The entertainment for tonight was the mooring field behind us in the harbor. Because of the high wind, boats were sailing on their mooring. And some of those mooring are so close that there is not much swing room. It's hard to tell in the photo but two of the boats behind us have crew up on their bows adjusting there line. As they crossed, the only thing keeping them apart was the forward boat's dinghy. Not a good situation. We almost took a mooring in that area but I decided we would be crowded and move. Good decision.
Care to guess the weather? Right, we decided to stay in Hope Town again.
Picture left is the sunrise. Those palm trees are really moving but hey, this is a still picture.
And why was I up at sunrise? At about 5:30, the sound of a bearing going bad awakened us. I jumped up and started turning off fans. No help. Then I stuck my head out of the hatch in the head and discovered the problem. There is some sort of bird over here with a song (?) that sounds just like an un-lubricated bearing about to give it up. I shoed him off.
Tonight we visted the Capt. Ralph and the crew of Kathleen D. The whole crew is now there and they plan to be off in the morning. Believe it or not, the forecast for tomorrow is not too bad.
And we're off. The wind is still out of the North and Northeast and we are able to sail all the way to Little Harbor and Pete's Pub. We had hoped to stop at the Sandy Cay Reef on the way but there were still too many rollers coming in from the cut.
I was able to introduce Jeff to the Bimini Ring Game while at the pub. Unfortunately, he was a quick study and was soon a pro.
The wind was dropping and even thought it was predicted to be out of the SouthWest, we pulled out of Little Harbor. If the wind is light and out of the Southwest there the bugs can be really bad. We anchored off of Lynyard Cay where I predicted no bugs. Well almost. We got a few by morning riding that Southwest wind.
Happy Birthday. Yes we had a birthday boy on board. Jeff had a birthday. I will not say how old. But, he was also celebrating going on Medicare today.
The wind was light all night and from the West and Southwest.
Left, Jeff celebrates his birthday after a snorkel at Sandy Cay. The snorkel was okay but it was still rolly. Of course by the time we left Sandy Cay the wind had gone Northwest and we had to motor all the way to Marsh Harbor.
We had dinner at Wally's and had a Wally. My, my. I believe the Wally is the most potent drink in the Abacos.
Then we went out dancing. But, I'll save that story for tomorrow.
Friday night we went looking for Brown Tip. For those not in the know about this area, Brown Tip is a legend. He has a bottom cleaning service by day and does the Rake and Scrape on the saw at night. We were not sure where if anywhere he was playing. Not Snappers. We went on to Curly Tails.
Near the entrance we ask a fellow if Brown Tip was playing there. He said that he was not The Brown Tip but he was qualified. He asked Faye and Susie to dance. And a good dancer he was. We stay at Curly Tails and really did like the musician they had there.
Saturday early Jeff and Susie headed for the airplane.
Even with a forecast of 10 to 15 from the NE, we headed to Tahiti Beach and Anchored. ?
Okay readers, a little quiz here. Do you see the problem that is coming? We extended our stay here a few days this year to attend the wedding of Bob Sowden and Karen Knockel on May 29. Remember that? I'm looking at the weather forecast for the Gulfstream and it is not clear that they will be able to make it to their own wedding. They had planned to leave Melbourne on Friday the 18th. I did not see how they were going to make it.
About noon we had had enough of the rollers at Tahiti Beach and moved to Hope Town on a mooring. We are now in the frequent moorer's club here. I called Bob on Skype and got a really bad connection. But, I could hear enough to know his plan was to try a crossing on Monday. I thought that a bad plan but hey. Meanwhile the forecast here is for 20 to 25 as far as the forecast goes. Ouch.
I called Bob in the evening from a land phone. They decided that a crossing was not in the cards and agreed that the Gulfstream would be bad for some time. They were returning to Melbourne and had a flight in here on Thursday. Unfortunately, their hotel resevation did not start till Monday. Hey, they had planned to be on their boat. I offered them a hull till Monday.
A group from Stadust, Island Fever, and Incommunigato went beach combing early this morning. Objective sea glass. They were successful.
The forecast no goes through Thursday and is the same every day. 20 to 25 from the NE to N. Groan
Left, an interesting solution to saving gas in the dinghy. This "sail" is built into the front of the dinghy. Goes pretty well down wind in this breeze but ain't too good to weather.
Dominoes game on Stardust this afternoon.
The forecast is bad through Friday so we are staying on our mooring in Hope Town.
Left, lunch at the Hope Town Harbor Lodge by the pool. Some of the crew from Incommunigato, Stardust, and Island Fever at the table.
We retired to a table in the shade and played a game of dominoes.
Later we had the crews over for dinner on Incommunigato.
The forecast is now bad through Satuday. Good thing Bob and Karen did not try to wait for a weather window to sail across.
Today's lunch at the Edge. You can see Incommunigato with the blue sail covers in the background.
Bob and Karen arrived from Florida and moved into the starboard hull. They have to go back to Marsh Harbor on Friday to get their marraige paper work. Have to be in the country for 24 hours before you apply.
I think this was taken a couple of days later on Stardust. My picture taking is falling off.
I will be making up for it soon at the wedding.
Bob and Karen went off to Marsh Harbor on the ferry to do paper work for the wedding. They also went down to the propeller shop and found that my propeller part was not yet in. Since it did not look like we were going to get that prop fixed before it was time to leave, they brought my bad prop back from the shop. I will have to see about getting it done back in the states.
Meanwhile, we stayed in Hope Town on a mooring.
Chuck and Rhonda Delmater arrived today. The first wedding guests I think except for Faye and I. They are staying on Stardust and hope to make the return crossing with Harvey and Nancy.
They got introduced to Dominoes and became addicted I think.
Harvey volunteered Stardust for a run to the Pig Roast at Nippers. This was a bit tricky as we had to hit close to high tide both leaving and coming back to Hope Town. We were able to sail up to Nippers and made it in plenty of time for the roast.
Around this table clockwise, Faye and I; Bob Sowden; Nancy and Harvey from Stardust; Jim and Sue from Island Fever, Chcuk and Rhonda visiting Stardust; and Karen Knockel.
We topped off Nippers with a stop at Grabbers then back to Stardust for a motor trip back to Hope Town.
Bob and Karen moved out this morning and took their rooms at the Abaco Inn. Donna arrived and took over the port hull.
And, more wedding guests arrived on the island. We got most of them together at the Edge for dinner. I will try this again in the clock wise direction. Denny and Faye; two I cannot ID from the photo; Karen's Dad and Mom (mostly hidden); ? : mark VanStrum, Donna Ross, Jeff and Debbie McGregor, Cathy Logan and (hidden?) Mark Voris; Bob and Karen; Karen's Sister and Brother-in-Law; Gerry Moores; Suzanne and Rick Crocket. What a mob.
Now we are ready for the wedding.
Finally, the big day. I did get the camera fired up today so we are going into the more pictures today mode here.
Top, pre-wedding in the lobby of the Abaco Inn. The guy in the back on the laptop is not part of the wedding.
Top left, Bob with his daughters just before the service. It is about 10 minutes till wedding time and no sign of the Rev. Vernon Malone. Not to worry
Left, Vernon prononces them Mr. and Mrs. Bob Snowden. No that is not a typo. One of things you just can't make up.
Below left, of course no job is over until the paper work is done.
Below, yes there was a party afterwards. A band showed up, not part of the wedding but welcomed by all the guests.
Bob and Karen had been talking to Pete Johnston of Pete's Pub fame about custom wedding rings. Those used in the ceremony were place holders. I invited all at the wedding party to join us on a trip to Pete's on Incommuigato hoping that not everyone would take me up.
We wound up with 13 people on the boat, most I have ever had under sail. Fortunately, we had a moderate NE wind on the way down and were able to sail from harbor to harbor at a nice pace.
At the pub, the newly weds talked to Peter about the ring design. I am not sure of the meaning of the $100 bill on the bar but will attempt to find out. Left, Bob, Karen and Pete work out the details. Those are Pete's hands on the left, then Karen and Bob. And, for those who may not be aware. I am usually posting into on Pete's Pub. But first came the bronze foundry started by Pete's father. Their art is in fact world famous.
We are back in Hope Town on the mooring awaiting weather again. By this time we have been on a mooring here for so long this month that Truman Major, mooring owner, has generously offered us a retroactive monthly rate. Willl the wind ever stop?
Left, a bonus picture from the wedding. Yes, that is the "Wedding Cake". Too small to see but there are a couple of raggae figures on top of the pie.
And we are off to Green Turtle Cay. The forecast says the weather should be okay early. Meanwhile, Harvey and Nancy on Stardust have reported from the Whale Cay Passage that they would not want to be there in a small boat. I decided to take the Don't Rock Channel.
Just as we approach Don't Rock, the wind kicks up and I am ready to bail out. But then it subsides and we shot through the channel and get to Green Turtle a couple of hours behind Stardust.
More bonus wedding pix left. A better shot of the characters on the wedding cake.
Yawn, we are now holed up in Green Turtle looking for a good forecast for the Gulfstream. Actually, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday are looking pretty good. Monday is supposed to be good but we are not convinced that the stream will lay down quickly after Tropcal Storm Barry.
Last of the bonus pictures. Post ceremony with Karen's parents.
We are still in Green Turtle Cay waiting weather. Chuck and Rhonda need to get back to Florida and are taking the water taxi back to Great Abaco. The water taxi actually came to Stardust in the harbor to pick them up.
This was not a good year to make schedule plans while sailing in the Bahamas. We did not make it to George Town to pick up our first crew. DJ and Norma were two days late getting back to the states and had to take a water taxi and a charter, and now Chuck and Rhonda have to alter plans.
I heard a lot of people say that if this was their first time cruising in the Bahamas, they would not come back.
I think tourism was down in the Abacos this year for two reasons. First, the weather. Many cruisers could not find a good weather window that conincided with their travel plans. Second, the new US passport law and subsequent delays by the US in getting passports issued. Some folks said too much trouble or their passports did not come and they vacationed elsewhere.
Note, as of this writing, the US has recended the passport requirement for a few months. But, my advice is get a passport now and get in line.
After going Faye's bail, we were off to Great Sale Cay.
The forecast was for winds from the SW for the first time we anchored on the east side of Great Sale Cay. This despite a little more distance to travel tomorrow.
Right. The weather had one more shot for us. It piped up out of the southeast after dark and we rocked and rolled all night. I think Harvey had it worse in his boat as the period of the waves had him in resonance and experiencing zero G's half the night.
We set off Tuesday morning from Great Sale. Stopped at my favorite hunk of coral out on the bank and I managed to find a small snapper for dinner.
The bank was clam and Faye was able to cook the snapper up while we were under way. Meanwhile some thunder could be heard to the south around West End. As we neared the edge of the bank darkness set in and we could not see a thing or track the storm very well. As the wind started to pick up we turned into it and dropped the sails. Just as the main was coming down, the wind suddenly hit 40+ kts. Just in time. It also began to get rough and we decided to anchor about 10 miles from the edge of the bank and wait for the weather to settle.
We were also waiting for Stardust. Stardust left Great Sale later with the expectation of catching up with us near the edge of the bank. Finally about 11:00 PM we heard them on the radio but could not raise them in return. Then about midnight we contacted Stardust and pulled anchor. The next two hours were very rough. I think the problem was that the tide was running off of the bank into a SW wind.
Once we got off the bank and into deeper water, the sea calmed down. Unfortunately, the wind did not come from the predicted S to SSW but more West or even at times Northwest. That meant motoring through the night to make our track to Ft. Pierce.
We were motoring on one motor to conserve gas and Stardust caught up with us about 10:00 AM. We were both shooting to hit Ft. Pierce with an incoming tide that should have lasted till about 3:30.
Then, about 12 miles out of Ft. Pierce the drag on the fishing reel started to scream and kept screaming. We got slowed down and I finally started to make some progress on the fish. We had seen him jump early and knew it was a dolphin. It took more than an hour for me to get him into the boat. A little over 20 piunds. Meanwhile the stream had swept us north of Ft. Pierce inlet.
We kept going and finally pulled into Logger Head marina in Grand Harbor just on the north edge of Vero Beach. Bob and Karen Sowden have a condo there and we stayed ashore with them. First time in four months we did not sleep on the boat. Good timing as it rained hard and boat would have been a sauna at the dock.
We slept the sleep of the dead after being up most of 36hours.
Up the ICW today and back to Melbourne. Of course the wind was nearly nil on the way back until we got within 10 miles of Melbourne. Then we were able to get some sail up and motor sail back to the slip.
As we came into the marina, we noticed some weeds in the channel. Left is what the marina looked like. Apparently Tropical Storm Barry had washed 5 months worth of weeds out of the creeks and clogged the harbor. Other boaters said that a day earlier the entire harbor had been filled with weed. The manatees were having a feast.
Next, starting to fix modify stuff on the boat in anticipation of next year. I can hardly wait, not.