Korea - First Impressions

Under Construction would be a good place to start. Seoul, along with most of the rest of the country has been razed more times this century than just about anywhere else in Asia, from the systematic destruction of its culture and history by the Japanese in the War Years, to the destructive civil war of the '50s. Most of the buildings you will see in Seoul and the other major cities are less than 50 years old. Today, tower cranes are the dominant feature of the cityscape as more and more identikit apartment blocks rise from the city to house Seoul's 12 million inhabitants, 25% of the country's population.

You seem never to be far from reminders of the country's turbulent history. Korean army posts are everywhere, the police wander the streets in packs and a walk down Itaewon shopping street will turn up more American GIs than Kabul. Major sights in the city have notice boards describing how they were demolished by the Japanese, usually twice. The beautifully restored Royal Palaces at Kyongbok and Ch'angdok were demolished first in 1592 and then taken apart again in the 40's. The Koreans really don't like the Japanese, which makes the ubiquitous signs proclaiming "Japan, our close neighbour" seem more than a little out of place to a cynical western eye.

All the military presence makes Seoul a strange place to be. The Koreans don't openly resent the American presence, but it is there. I am a fairly large, fairly hairy Englishman, I don't look much like an off duty GI. It didn't stop me getting surrounded by a group af drunken Korean men in Itaewon shouting "Yankee go home" amongst other things. On the other hand, it didn't stop me getting "rescued" by a group of genuine GIs, either.

Information about Korea is not so readily available as other Asian countries. The Lonely Planet guide I was able to buy in Tokyo is out of date and doesn't mention the new international airport at Incheon. Airport tax information in the guide is also out of date, the deparure tax for international flights is now 15000WON, not 9000WON as it states in the book. (I bought the book in Tokyo, not notorious for its English bookshops, you may be able to get a newer release in your own country.)

This section of the Unofficial Guide is shorter than the Japan section, I don't live in Korea, so it is based on many conversations and a couple of short visits. The cut out and keep section for Korea is almost entirely pinched from various phrase books.

		Korea - First Impressions Under Construction would be a good place to start. Seoul, along with most of the rest of the country has been razed more times this century than just about anywhere else in Asia, from the systematic destruction of its culture and history by the Japanese in the War Years, to the destructive civil war of the '50s. Most of the buildings you will see in Seoul and the other major cities are less than 50 years old. Today, tower cranes are the dominant feature of the cityscape as more and more identikit apartment blocks rise from the city to house Seoul's 12 million inhabitants, 25% of the country's population. You seem never to be far from reminders of the country's turbulent history. Korean army posts are everywhere, the police wander the streets in packs and a walk down Itaewon shopping street will turn up more American GIs than Kabul. Major sights in the city have notice boards describing how they were demolished by the Japanese, usually twice. The beautifully restored Royal Palaces at Kyongbok and Ch'angdok were demolished first in 1592 and then taken apart again in the 40's. The Koreans really don't like the Japanese, which makes the ubiquitous signs proclaiming "Japan, our close neighbour" seem more than a little out of place to a cynical western eye. All the military presence makes Seoul a strange place to be. The Koreans don't openly resent the American presence, but it is there. I am a fairly large, fairly hairy Englishman, I don't look much like an off duty GI. It didn't stop me getting surrounded by a group af drunken Korean men in Itaewon shouting "Yankee go home" amongst other things. On the other hand, it didn't stop me getting "rescued" by a group of genuine GIs, either. Information about Korea is not so readily available as other Asian countries. The Lonely Planet guide I was able to buy in Tokyo is out of date and doesn't mention the new international airport at Incheon. Airport tax information in the guide is also out of date, the deparure tax for international flights is now 15000WON, not 9000WON as it states in the book. (I bought the book in Tokyo, not notorious for its English bookshops, you may be able to get a newer release in your own country.) This section of the Unofficial Guide is shorter than the Japan section, I don't live in Korea, so it is based on many conversations and a couple of short visits. The cut out and keep section for Korea is almost entirely pinched from various phrase books.