Tips to consider when using static cameras for IMAG
Static cameras, i.e. cameras set up on a single
fixed shot may seem like an attractive option if you have more cameras than you
have operators. They can be very useful, but they have their drawbacks, some of
which are outlined here...
It's ironic that in most VLOBLIVE gigs it's
actually easier these days to get good cameras than it is to get good operators
who can use them well for IMAG. Lots of folk have perfectly decent miniDV
cameras that they use for filming their offspring or whatever most of the time,
but which can be pressed into service at VLOBLIVE gigs. But what if you don't
have anyone to operate them? Or what if you want to get a shot that would be
impossible for a person to get, either because it's from a position where they
couldn't stand onstage, or it's too close to a performer to be
safe.
In this case using a 'static'
camera, i.e. a camera locked off on a single shot is definitely an option, but
be aware of some issues that can trip you up with this kind of
use.
1. Don't overuse static shots - they get very
boring very quickly, and as soon as the audience have worked out how you got the
shot, the next time they see it they will think "oh yeah, THAT camera again".
Don't worry if you only use the shot two or three times during the whole event.
The temptation is to think "I've got this shot so I better use it". Like all
good IMAG, the audience should understand WHY they are seeing this shot, not
just coz you got bored.
2. Be careful about framing - it is VERY easy to
line up a shot in rehersal or soundcheck and then for the performer to step out
of shot and you have no way to tell them to step back in! This is why static
shots work best for static performers. Keyboard players, drummers and
percussionists are among the best candidates.
3. Be careful about focus - it is nearly always
best to put a static cam in fixed focus, as the danger or focus hunting with
auto-focus is very high.
4. Keep the static shot for when there's
something worth seeing - this will require some preparation, but if you know
there's a keyboard flourish or a drum fill coming and you cut to it just in time
it can be very effective.
5. Don't forget to light them well - the static
shot is a good case for using specific video lighting, just for that shot, as
you know what needs to be lit. An on-camera light is a good option to fill in
the shadows but try to diffuse it a bit if you can.
6. Consider buying a pan-tilt head with remote
control to give you some framing options. Even if you don't have a pan tilt
head, consider getting someone (one of the other camops) to re-position the
static camera, say at the interval, to give at least two different framing and
positioning options.
7. Consider using the camera remote control to
control zooming remotely. You may need to get clever with where you put the
camera to allow the remote to still work, or you may want to invest in a Lan-C
wired remote.
8. finally consider only using static cams for
shots that is impossible for a manned camera, rather than one that could be a
manned cam. This will give a motivation for using them and will make the shot
more interesting for longer through the event.
Posted: Wed - July 13, 2005 at 07:02 AM
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