10 things to look for in a DVD player for playback at live events.
Consumer DVD players are SO cheap now, it's very
tempting to make use of them as a playback tool for live events. Some are better
suited to this application than others. Here are 10 specific features to watch
out for when buying a consumer DVD player for use at live events.
You can buy professional DVD players designed
specifically for use at live events. They are built to be robust and reliable
over many many hours of extended use. They are also really
expensive.
So the reourceful VLOBLIVE
engineer is likely to say "why buy one of those, when I could buy one of these
consumer ones for 1/3rd of the money and replace it three times for the same
money if it breaks?"
It's a compelling
argument and a route I have taken in the past, but be aware that there are some
caveats to this approach that should be kept in
mind.
Firstly remember that
professional DVD players don't just push robustness as their selling points.
They also have the right features and the right quality for the
application.
There are some features
that just make things easier when doing live events. Here are some to watch out
for:
1.
Compatible with recordable DVD
formats.
Since all 'homegrown' DVD
content will be on recordable DVD, you better make sure that the player supports
them. This is becoming less of an issue, but double-check that it will play back
DVD-Rs, DVD+Rs, and also DVD-RW and DVD+RWs too. The best option is to take a
disk with you when buying.
Ironically a lot
of the cheaper DVD players have newer chipsets than the Pro ones, and will
actually be MORE compatible than their expensive cousins, but it's still worth
checking.
2.
The ability to turn OFF the on-screen
display.
Most consumer DVD players have an OSD that
shows an icon for PLAY and PAUSE etc. This is really distracting, when starting
playback, so try to buy one that allows you to turn OFF the OSD completely. You
will probably have to read through the user manual to find out this
one.
3.
Menu controls on front panel.
Most consumer players rely entirely on
the remote control for menu operation. In the heat of the moment, you don't want
to be fumbling around looking for a remote control, or finding that the
batteries are flat etc.
Buy a DVD player with
the 4-way UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT select and Menu controls on the front
panel.
There are a few that have this, and it
is well worth holding out for.
4.
Direct Phono and miniDIN video/audio
outputs
The cheaper the DVD player the
less comprehensive it's output connections will be. The simplest will have a
single SCART (in Europe) connection, which will need a breakout cable. You want
something that you can change the connections on quickly and easily using
standard cables.
I suggest you set your
minimum standard as AT LEAST:
- separate
audio out L and R on phono (RCA)
- separate
composite video out on phono (RCA)
- separate
S-Video out on miniDIN
In addition if
you have component RGB on phonos then that can we useful for 'direct to
projector' playback, giving the best possible
quality.
Some even have a surround decoder
built in and bring out separate L,R, C, Rear L, Rear R and sub outputs on phono
(RCA). This MIGHT come in useful for 'movie nights' but is only a 'nice to
have'.
5.
PAL AND NTSC
playback.
This is pretty much a given,
but having the ability to play the 'other' format can save your neck when
someone turns up with a disc they sourced from abroad. Remember however, that
just because your DVD player can playback the 'other' format doesn' mean the
rest of your system can.
On pro
machines, some of them will actually convert PAL to NTSC or NTSC to PAL which is
even better, but I guess you have to weigh up how often you will need this
feature, since if you get the disc in advance you can always convert it in your
NLE anyway. (Compressor 2, as part of the Apple Final Cut Studio package will
now do standards conversion)
6.
Ability to turn OFF the screen
saver
Sometimes you really don't want a
screensaver kicking in on the DVD player at the wrong moment. Make sure you can
turn it off (again, check the user manual, don't just take someone's word on
this)
7.
A-B loop
playback
This is the ability to select
playback to run from one particular timecode to another and then loop
automatically. Can be very useful for animated backgrounds etc. of course you
can just loop up the background on the DVD to play for 30 mins or whatever, but
it's nice to have the option.
8.
Time readout on the player NOT the
screen.
Again this is a 'nice to have'
but having an LED, or LCD time display on the player itself, can sometimes be
very useful, especially if it has a 'time remaining' mode, so you know how long
is left of the current clip.
9.
Gamma (brightness)
adjustment
Some players have a way of
adjusting the 'brightness' although actually it's usually the gamma that's being
adjusted. This makes darker parts of the image brighter and can really help when
you are showing movie clips that are mean to be seen on a TV in a dark sitting
room, on an LCD (with lower contrast ratio) in a bright hall or church. This can
sometimes be called 'movie mode' or 'enhanced mode' or
similar.
10.
Good enough image quality for the
application.
My final note is on Quality.
MPEG video decoding isn't trivial to do and the better it is implemented the
more expensive the chipset is, and this is reflected in the cost of the
player.
A cheap player will produce poorer
quality video. There's no argueing about
that.
This is going to be especially obvious
when you are projecting it 10 feet wide on a big screen, so don't ignore this
aspect. You pretty much pay for what you get and remember your audience doesn't
care how much you paid for the machine - they care how good the video
looks.
My rule of thumb as of June 2005
is that sub $80 you are going to struggle to get good enough quality. Sub $180
you can probably do OK, and around $200 quality should no longer be an
issue.
There are some very specific
artefacts to watch out for in cheap DVD players (or indeed any low quality MPEG
decoding) - you need to decide if the player you are auditioning is good enough
for what you are doing:
- banding or
contouring in flat areas. this is a BIG give-away of poor quality decoding. if
you look at flat areas of colour you see what look like contour lines on a map
across them.
- mosquito noise around
edges. This shows up as noise around areas of high detail or along
edges.
- dis-embodied heads. I just
invented this term, but it refers to situations where the motion estimation in
the MPEG decoder gets it wrong and you see someone's head remain TOTALLY static
while their body is moving slightly in the background. It's almost like their
head is disconnected from their body.
-
blocking on fast movement. This is one of the most obvious, especially when
playing back handheld video where there is a lot of movement in the image
anyway. the encoder just gives up and displays a bunch of blocks instead of
parts of the image.
Different people
have different thresholds for these kinds of artefacts, but remember they are
all going to be MUCH bigger and MUCH more obvious when projected on a big
screen.
Also remember that poor quality
encoding (typical of a consumer DVD recorder, or DVD encoding app) gives a
bigger challenge to the decoding hardware
too.
So, it's pointless to recommend
specific models, as they change so quickly, but you CAN buy cheap (sub $150)
consumer DVD players that meet all these criteria and work well for VLOBLIVE
events. I know, I've got one!
Posted: Sun - June 26, 2005 at 08:05 AM
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