An intermezzo between Parts 3A and 3B
Breaking with tradition (though one must wonder
how much tradition a one-year-old electronic journal REALLY has?), this entry
consists entirely of images - both presented here and from the past. Part 3B,
recounting the trip back West from Thunder Bay to Seattle, will follow this
entry. Following that will be more image-only entries covering lots of North
American vistas, towns and a number of additional Time&Motion flicks
(Herky-Jerky™ movies).
Nota Bene: Check out the multimedia page for several new T&M flicks,
most notably a catch-up which I promised for quite some time now -- the 2004 Fremont Solstice Parade and the 2004
Gay Pride Parade and the all-new Across Wyoming - a T&M flick with
appropriate soundtrack by Anton Dvorak - of the diagonal, across-state, trek I
made through Wyoming, starting at the northwest corner in Yellowstone National
Park and ending at the southeast corner in the Medicine Bow Range mountains.
This flick shows off a side of Wyoming which many don't know exists - the
beautiful forested mountains and open plains of a state most think of as an
open-pit mine. And now, an all-image
(with caption) entry. This image journal focuses on Louisville, Kentucky, a
town I found to be surprisingly hip, equally alluring and like so many other
towns which have gone through a several-decade-long period of severely
restricted municipal and private funds, filled with magnificent restored
buildings originally constructed at the turn of the Century (19th, that is).
Also, like so many towns which once had a heavily-industrialized waterfront,
Louisville has removed most of the evidence of its once glorious river days and
replaced the wharves and docks with a riverwalk and Riverboat Queens which now
ply up and down the Ohio River.Plus,
the new edifices which have grown up on the old main streets, in the case of
Louisville, include some stunning examples of the Philip
Johnson / John Burgee school of architecture. For those not familiar
with Louisville, it was founded as a way-point along the Ohio River and grew as
a shipping and transport center associated with an early agricultural heritage
which included tobacco. As the industrial age began to wax, Louisville became
more and more populated, growing up along the banks of the Ohio. Today's
Louisville retains a great deal of the character of the earlier town with its
broad streets and avenues and a unique, for river cities, view along some
streets. Because Louisville is on a bend of the Ohio River, just down from
Cincinnati, there are a very large number of east-west running downtown streets
which both begin and end at the
river.The images below try and capture
some of the old charm as well as the new electricity and, of course, the Ohio
River.But, first, a parting shot at
the beginning of the trip
East... High
in the Cascades, heading East on August 8, the sun was peeking through
earlymorning fog and clouds. The interstate
is still empty, the crows still asleep, and
theday tranquil. A great omen for a great
trip. US
Highway 54 crossing the Mississippi at Louisiana, Missouri.
Acrossthe river is Illinois. This is about
ten miles downriver from Hannibal, Missouri,
home of and featured town in Mark Twain's many stories
aboutriver life. This is a classic
steel-arch span and has two traffic lanes,
whichappeared to be mostly empty most of the
time. The Mississippi is abouta
quarter-mile across at this point in its path. If one starts at
Brainard,Minnesota (setting for the movie
"Fargo") and travels downriver, to theend of
paved roads, there are 77 road bridges and 14 vehicle ferries
alongthe Mississippi. There about a third
that number of railroad bridges andan almost
equal number of Corps of Engineer
locks. Panorama
of Broadway at 2nd Street. Main runs east-west, as does Broadway. Broadway is
about a third-of-a-mile from the river
anddowntown Louisville is sandwiched between
the
two. Further
west at the intersection of Broadway and 3rd. The number streets run
north-south from the river's edge south through
downtownand on through the rest of
Louisville. My hotel was right on Broadway, easy walk distance to just about
anything in
town. One
block further west at the intersection of Broadway and 4th. Louisville's
streets are relatively broad for early American cities and
owea lot to the influence of Pierre L'Enfant
and his master mentor, the designer of modern Paris for Napoleon III, Baron
Haussmann. The city itself is
named in honor of French King Louis XV, who went to war with England in favor of
the American revolution. However, it's
evolutionis strictly American with a grid
system and named and numbered streets, unlike New Orleans, which was developed
by French settlers and whose streets radiate
perpendicular to the river, as is the custom in
France. The
intersection of Jefferson and 5th Streets in the cultural section of Louisville.
The art museum is the neo-classical structure
inthe left center with the town hall beyond
that. Main
Street looking both right and left. Main was the original "main" street of the
town and is one block away from what had
beenthe Ohio River wharves and docks. It's
now the arts and crafts section of town and contains an unusually large number
of late 19th andearly 20th century
structures. It feels and looks a lot like Pioneer Square except for the
exceptionally broad avenues and
sidewalks. The
same intersection as above, Main and 6th Street, except now the view is facing
the Ohio River with east being on the right and
westbeing on the left. As with most river
cities, the first "real" street above the docks and wharves is actually on a
slight elevation. The OhioRiver banks are
about fifty feet down 6th Street, which is the street in the center. The
reflection in the glass building above mirrors the
street scene on the left in the image above
this
one. Along
4th Street are a few reminders of a more glorious age for cinema - in this case
theOhio Theater, an Art-Deco styled cinema
house which is now an arts and music
venue. Also
on 4th Street is the Palace Theatre, a rococo "grand dame" theater now being
usedas a playhouse and revival cinema venue.
Both the Palace and Ohio have been
restoredto their original splendor and are
part of an awakening Louisville arts and crafts
scene. Located
on Main Street is this post-modern headquarters of Humana,
Inc.,a large and profitable health
maintenance organization which actually
takes pride in providing "humanistic"
service and prices to its more than17
million subscribers. Many may recall Humana as the company
whichsponsored the first artificial heart
transplant. The lobby area also has
asurprise for the visitor - a Fresnel mirror sculpture. Most folks are
familiarwith one of Fresnel's inventions
- the Fresnel lens used in
lighthouses.Although perhaps
unintended, this is yet another French reference in
thisvery surprising town. (see
below). My
reflection as captured on the Canon Elph standing in front of the Fresnel mirror
in theoutside, covered, lobby area of
Humana, Inc.'s Louisville
headquarters. A
closer look at the subject of my Fresnel mirror photography. Fresnel lens and
mirrorswork on the theory that light, as a
wave, can be modified (in this case "amplified")
concentrically - so the lens (and mirrors)
consist of concentric rings of ground
glasswhich have slightly different radius
formula. Because this sculpture is to one side,
visitorsto Humana's corporate offices are
often caught offguard, as I was, by the weirdly
movingreflection to their left as they enter
the building. This is the first Fresnel mirror I've
everencountered.
It
seems that every city in America these days has some form of fiberglass,
mass-reproducedsculpture representing some
animal and provided to artists within the city to paint
anddecorate as they choose. This is a
gay-proud ribbon bedecked flying horse located
acrossfrom Humana's corporate headquarters
along Main Street in Louisville. Horses, of
course,make perfect animals for Kentucky,
home of both the Kentucky Derby and the
justifiably-famoushorse training and
breeding farms outside Lexington (heart of the Blue Grass
area). This
is a live music venue located right downtown on 4th Street in the heart of
Louisville'sshopping and entertainment
district. The night I was in town was the opening night for
thisnew attraction (free!!) and there was a
steady stream of Gen-X, thirty-somethings, and
evenfolks like me (Baby Boomer) who were
heading toward the throng to hear the
music. One
block north of Main Street, along the Ohio River waterfront, is both the
elevated freewayand a series of construction
projects which will link the rest of the city to the waterfront.
Onesuch project is the Muhammad
Ali Center , a multicultural visitor center and cultural
enrichmentcenter which will focus on Ali's
contributions. Ali, of course, began and grew up
here. Don't
think for a minute that your civil liberties aren't being rapidly eroded by the
presentadministration's ridiculous and
unwarranted tactics and plain, Gestapo-styled actions. This is
one of two river boats which are docked
along the quay right in the heart of Louisville on
theOhio River. Do not ask me why Homeland
Security has decided this boat is off-limits
becausethere is no evident nor even any
preposterously-wild and imaginative reason why this
attraction should be closed. If you like
this type of environment, if you like these kinds of
restrictions to your freedom as an American,
make sure you vote for Bush this November,
because this is only the beginning of the
restrictions on your
lifestyle. Perhaps
a bit hard to see, but this is a double rainbow which occurred very briefly
overdowntown Louisville right as the sun was
setting. The camera captured the
doublerainbow but in person it was actually
a triple rainbow - the third band being too faint
formy trusty but under-powered and "only 2
megapixel" Digial Elph to
capture. Looking
opposite the rainbow, the sun was setting along Main Street presenting
thistangarine-and-gold sky. All-in-all a
wonderful afternoon and evening in
Louisville. Ah,
the afterglow of a great sunset, equally great and providing a warm bask with
which tomake my way toward the river for
some late-sun sky
effects. But
not before one last image of downtown basking in twilight with "Forth Street
Live" andits neon-lit stage in the
center. The
waning sky as seen from the middle of the Ohio River on the US Highway 31
bridge. The bridge's steel arches are on the right,
theOhio River and sun-lit sky in the center
and downtown Louisville on the
left. A
higher magnification image showing some of the activity along the river. The
most obvious is their version of the Alaska Way Viaduct,
an elevated Interstate 64 viaduct with the
river and river boats to the right. This is looking west -
obviously. Looking
downriver towards another steel-truss bridge, the waning sky provided one
lastblast of scarlet and then night
fell. From
my vantage point halfway to Ohio, in the middle of the US Highway 31 bridge,
Louisville begins to twinkle and come alive
with lights and street life. For river
cities,Louisville has done a pretty decent
job of matching the city to the river's edge and
hasa relatively attractive skyline for a
modern American city - not too many "cereal-box"
buildings and not too much "junk" messing
with the
cityscape. A
wide-angle image of the US Highway 31 bridge, the Ohio River, and downtown
Louisville with the remnants of the sunset still
aglow. A
closer look at some of the Johnson-Burgee inspired architecture gracing
Louisville. An
update to my circa 1970 Chevron highway map which has been the baseline map for
annotating my trips across North America. The
map is http-live, which means if you click on the map
you will get a much larger image in a new page, in the event you actually
wantedto read the writing or examine a
highway in higher detail.And that's it
folks. Remember, there are new movies on the multimedia page <http://homepage.mac.com/credmond/multimedia.html>,
soplease check them
out.Next update will be more text-only
recounting of the voyage home to Puget Sound from Thunder Bay, Ontario. Next
images will probably be from the beach and of my family.
Posted: Mon - September 20, 2004 at 01:23 PM
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Published On: Jul 04, 2005 05:41 PM
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