SIFF Reviews, Owl Bus, City Scapes...
This is another in a series of interim updates,
this one seven thousand words' worth with the usual "Bunch-O" pictures. I've
been hither and thither of late, at the Seattle International Film Fest venues
to catch those flicks which piqued my interest, been scouring late night Capitol
Hill as part of the SIFF traipsing (think Adams-Morgan/Dupont - 19th Street-U
Street-18th Street), was out for yet another long bike run and got my first
chance to see the locks here, and been watching and kibitzing with Rick, Todd
and the painter brothers as they've continued their
housework.
Weather here has been simply outstanding. I now
am beginning to realize why, in addition to the obvious scenic draw, people love
the coastal Northwest. The weather, although different each day and maybe even
several times in the same day, never really changes its overall mildness. The
hottest day we've had so far, and I must be acclimatized already because it felt
like 90 to me, was only 84. The coldest day since March has been only 49 and of
late it's been about 56 to 58 at night with steady winds from the southwest.
I've been out late at night with this strong wind and only wearing a T-shirt
with a pullover on top and - though slightly "chilled" - have not been
uncomfortable at all. I actually thought it would take me longer to dump my
Eastern hot humid blood, but, in fact, this weather is so natural and
accommodating of humans that I'm already at
home.And, although I refuse to wear a
backpack - which is what 99 percent of the rest of the residents out here have,
including the business-suited downtown "suits," I have taken to carrying a
rolled up long-sleeve T-shirt which I wrap around my waist and tie in the front.
That's the "other" look one can have as a Northwesterner if one really doesn't
like the backpack approach. What do these people carry in their backpacks?
Why, extra clothes, hats, a slicker, and bottles of water. I just never got
into the whole backpack thing. I realize that about half of the subway riders
in DC also carry backpacks but then if I'd wanted to be a mule I'd be living in
the Grand Canyon wouldn't I?Rather,
I've just acquired a bunch of cargo pants, long pants and short pants, and just
stuff all the other things in the pockets. I've been carrying extra batteries
and flash cards and my camera everywhere and a pocket-full of change to either
give to the street people when that strikes my fancy or use as phone or bus
money.The Seattle International Film
Festival is great fun. It runs over three weeks and the theaters are aligned
basically in an "L" with the furthest distance from the two end-points being
about a mile-and-a-half. Eminently walkable. Plus the two major venue streets
- Pine and Broadway - are damned interesting components of the city - in the
daytime, in the evening, at night, and even after hours. Back in DC, the city
government started a filmfest (DC Filmfest) early last decade and has tried to
get it grounded and a regular element of the city's cultural scene. But, it
ain't like it is here. The DC festival, first off, is scattered across a
geographic region, has dozens of competing films at the same hour, only runs 12
days, and has prices which make concert ticket gouging seem cheap. Hardly an
enticement to get into the cinema seat on a night-after-night basis. Which is a
real shame since the American Film Institute (AFI) has its major outreach office
in DC and since there's so much international interest there to begin with.
What may have worked against the DC Filmfest is the fact that there are
literally only two of the original movie houses left in town and one of them is
like the Cinerama out here - the premier 70mm Cinemascope theater. The other
one was saved from the wrecking ball by the neighborhood it's in and is run
almost as a neighborhood charity (the Avalon on Connecticut). Where DC used to
have dozens of downtown movie houses and a huge number of neighborhood movie
houses, it now has multiplex theaters in a few locations (Union Station,
Georgetown, Tenleytown-Friendship Heights, and soon 7th Street downtown). These
do not really lend much of a touch of class and most of them are on the small
side. The Seattle festival has been
going on now for 30 years and has built up quite a following. Plus, the venues
themselves are excellent, even the one venue in a multiplex is the largest
screen at that location with a great screen and seats. And, the scheduling
isn't completely contradictory - there are four concurrent runs generally, not
the dozens like in DC, and many of the films show at two different times so
catching all of them is possible here whereas it's not with the DC Filmfest.
And, the ticket prices for SIFF are not gouging. It's nine bucks for an
afternoon through night showing and six-fifty for the matinee (2:30 pm ) and
midnight showings. I, of course, have tried to select the matinee or midnight
showing where it was possible.There's
probably another element which helps make the Seattle film festival such a
success - Seattle has a strong tradition and strong on-going independent film
industry. There are sound stages, equipment of all kinds, sufficient supporting
crafts, and an independent spirit which drive film-making out here - as there is
in the whole metropolitan Cascade region (Portland to Vancouver). This means
that there are lots of talented individuals who have volunteered or are members
of the Cinema Seattle, the presenters of the film festival. The programmers
(those who select the films) have a powerful interest in film and are often
immeshed in the industry and bring a skilled set of eyes and ears to the
process. Plus, here in Seattle, the film festival is a big deal. Back in DC,
DC Filmfest was barely mentioned on any of the local broadcast media and covered
by the Post and City Paper in passing. Out here, the media, particularly the
non-Clear Channel independents but even the conglomerate stations, cover the
films. The two regular papers and the two independent papers all have their own
guides and special pullout sections for festival. There are signs placed
throughout the city and the feeling is that this is something one should pay
attention to - consequently a lot of folks do. I haven't sat through a single
movie with less than a half-full house - that's probably better than the
Hollywood flicks are doing at the same
time.I selected ten flicks figuring
I'd meander my way through my first year and see if my tastes, the reviews I'd
used as guides, the actual screening and my resultant impressions were aligned
and then next year dive into the three weeks a little deeper. I also missed out
on some of the flicks I really would have liked to have seen because I - for
some reason - thought it started later in May than it actually did so
essentially I missed five days' worth of flicks by just not paying
attention.Of the ten flicks, I've
already seen seven, so I'll provide brief synopses and reviews of those and
catch the other three up later. So far I've been fairly impressed with what I
set out to do - match my desires against my ability to find the right movie and
hope the flick was satisfying. There have been no bad calls yet and several of
the movies went beyond my expectations. All of them have illuminated me in ways
I had hoped they would - mostly having to do with being foreign or independent
and therefore providing a fresh view or a view of a place and culture of
interest to me (which is basically all of them). The audiences have been
appreciative and I've sat through post-screening sessions with two of the
directors and learned even more about both the movie, the reasons for its
production and the director. From the Seattle International Film Festival and
Cinema Seattle's perspective they've acquired a new follower, they've succeeded
in showing me something of note and expanding my horizon and secured a potential
volunteer for next and subsequent year's festivals.
On a completely related but somewhat
side track, because the venues are in and around Capitol Hill and late at night,
I've also expanded my own view into the city's rock, alternative, punk and metal
scene and experienced the late-night debauchery in several different parts of
town. And, I've become familiar with yet another bus run - the Owl Service on
about seven lines which run after 2:00 am and the clientele who use that
service. That's its own trip and a
half.Now a few SIFF movie
reviews:(I'll give a
one-phrase description of the basic story line/plot and a few details which
express what I liked/disliked about it and then the pertinent
Director/Acting/Location data - if relevant). Rating
scheme* = okay, better on HBO
or as rental* * = good but
should be matinee price* * *
= worth the money at a really good theater with good optics and sound, creates
conversation afterwards* * *
* = memorable movie (either by itself or of the genre), worth seeing again and
definitely worth discussing*
* * * * = one of the best I've ever seen, a movie worth owning in any format and
a provocative
experienceDig *
* * Coping - This is a rock
documentary covering 7 years of the Brian Jonestown Massacre and their alliance
with the Dandy Warhols (portions of the 7 years also follow the career of Dandy
Warhols). Telling psychological/sociological reality movie involving drugs,
fame, disdain for big business, selling out or not, and the impact on the
participating individuals and those around them - includes great selection of
both group's music. Director and documentalist/cinematographer Ondi Timoner
actually spent seven years doing this. Narration is by Dandy Warhol's lead and
founder Courtney Taylor who early on was infatuated with
protagonist/villian/hero played for real by Brian Jonestown Massacre founder and
resident genius Anton Newcomb, who, among other scenes, is caught kicking an
uncomplimentary patron of one of his shows twice in the head and being arrested
for it.
Dandelion * *
*Finding oneself - This is Seattle
director Mark Milguard's first film and captures the small-town surface normalcy
of eastern Washington-western Idaho (Palouse Valley) with lyric photography
filled with lush and soothing visuals complete with small streams and the crack
of firearms aimed at tin cans. The protagonist, played adroitly by Vincent
Kartheiser, is surrounded by badness not of his doing for which he tries and
atones and plays an unrelenting redeemer, a role which gets him innocently
incarcerated when he refuses to talk and unmask his politically-motivated
father's accidental killing of a roadside bystander. When he returns to his
town, his family is further deteriorated, his true love commits suicide
essentially in front of him and he finally realizes that to escape his role of
small-town redeemer he must escape the small town. End of movie. If "Thelma
and Louise" had made it to the other side of the Grand Canyon at the end of that
film, this is the movie that would have been. Uplifting in a way completely
beyond the normal means of salvation and spiritual in a very down-to-Earth
manner - no sermans, just positive actions finally rewarded by self-direction of
the protagonist. Unbelievably beautiful and lyric photography from Tim Orr with
equally lyric original soundtrack from Robb
Williamson.Bonjour
Monsieur Shlomi * * *Finding
oneself - Directed by Shemi Zarhin, our hero, played by Oshri Cohen, spends his
days and nights appeasing everyone around him with his cooking skills and his
negotiating skills while all the while his mother, father, brother and sister
are involved in a mess - a real mess which is eating away at both the
individual's and the family's sense of unity and purpose. While Shlomi (Cohen)
cooks and negotiates well, he's generally regarded at school and at home as
something of a slow-wit who will be lucky someday to own his own cafe or
restaurant. Unbeknownst to anyone, including Shlomi himself, he's actually a
brilliant non-traditional and non-linear genius who can add, subtract, divide
and multiply 12-digit numbers in his head in seconds. No one understands him
and yet he understands everyone else but can't stay out of his role as
peacemaker long enough to find his own way. He finally falls for the girl next
door (literally) and she conspires to escape with him but only after his school
principal finally catches on and has Shlomi tested at Haifa University,
discovering Shlomi's genius at the same time. In the end, Shlomi finds and gets
love, the rest of his world comes to realize he's not just a sweet kid who can
cook and the disintegrated family actually recompiles now that Shlomi has found
out who he really is. Of interest because of the drama and melodrama (well
acted and played by everyone), the ordinariness of it all and yet peculiarly
unique relationships within this nuclear family, and because it presents an
unseen and yet quite peaceful and ordinary background of life in Israel. It
should be a "coming of age" film and yet everyone had already "come of age"
without actually maturing. This film presents the maturation process in such a
vivid and yet ordinary manner that it's mundane and yet compelling at the same
time.The Python * *
*Existentialism - Director Laila
Pakalnina has captured the absurd essence of life in Latvia (or anywhere) under
authoritarian rule. The headmistress of an all-grades school is forcing
everyone to take dumps in matchboxes to match feces to that found in the attic
of her school - a persistent problem she's going to resolve once and for all
despite the head nurse's assertion that she cannot match the feces to the
perpetrator. Meanwhile a school photographer using a real python and
pink-Southern-Belle-gown bedecked monkey arrives to shoot the school pictures;
meanwhile the local infantry is in search of a rabid badger believed to be loose
in the school grounds; meanwhile four of the school's upper-grade students are
driving around playing loud music in an unlicensed vehicle while the town's
sheriff chases around asking anyone if they've seen an unlicensed vehicle;
meanwhile the school's two janitors bitch and moan because there's no reason for
them to be lowering the radiators two feet just so this school's radiators will
match those of other schools; meanwhile the middle school boys scare the middle
school girls and chase them around (shot as a series of left-to-right and then
right-to-left chases occurring in the background throughout the movie). Absurd
as the authoritarian rule is and as dedicated as the schoolmarm is, something
else happens - the photographers python gets loose. The movie is a parody of
government-gone-amuck but as seen through Pakalnina's eyes and Gints Berzins'
camera, the reality of all this is a droll, insidious and captivating comedy of
the human condition. Throughout all this insanity the school children continue
to have fun, the nurse and photographer make out with the monkey as observer,
the badger slips away and the town celebrates its fire brigade who finally
evacuate the school and steal the schoolmarm's black book of demerits. What
makes this film work is that these scenes could occur anywhere, these insipid
acts of authority can and do occur everyday everywhere, and yet life does and
will go on. Just being is its own
reward.Haute Tension
* * * *Extreme thriller - Director
Alexandre Aja has cast Cecile De France and Maiwenn Le Besco in an intense
homo-erotic slasher movie which can only be compared with the original release
of "Psycho" on the world at that time. The movie title (High Tension) does not
lie. This movie is an involved, lesbian-denied love affair which turns abruptly
into a slasher movie which will make even the most hardened, brutish and cynical
fans of gore flinch. There are only nine persons portrayed in this 89-minute
flick but each slash, each rip, each heartbeat of cut artery, each piece of torn
flesh will rip through your head like lightning in a forest. It's an
intricately-woven psychological thriller set both in the real world of rural
France and in the deeply disturbed but prescient mind of the protagonist lesbian
(Cecile). Even the very last frame digs a new wound. For the faint of heart,
the squeamish, or those who prefer not to think about the inherent and potential
violence of the insanely-driven, this is not a movie you should see. For those
who seek new levels of sustained high-pulse-rate terror, who think "Alien" was a
wonderful flick, this is a must see. Provocative only in the cinematography and
story-telling (the plot is as old as the hills), it's one gasp after another
with just enough time in between to catch your breath. Interestingly enough,
like all truly excellent psychological thrillers, the opening scene tells the
ending - you just don't know it
yet.Steam: The
Turkish Bath * * *Inner discovery -
This is Turkish director Ferzan Ozpetek's first film, originally shot for under
$300,000 in 1995 and languishing for two years before he was convinced to
release it. It's about an Italian architect (Alessandro Gassman) and his
architect wife (Francesca d'Aloja) who have been pursuing the good life in Rome
when the husband's aunt dies in Turkey, leaving him the sole owner of an
original Istanbul Turkish bath. He leaves his failing marriage behind and
begins to reconstruct the bath, falling in love with his Aunt's life in
Istanbul, and also with the son of the caretakers of the bath, and discovering a
new spirit within himself after finding the unsent letters of his aunt to his
mother, who had spurned her sister for reasons never explained. The architect
is not only the only son of his mother and only nephew of his aunt, but he's the
only thing standing in the way of that part of Istanbul becoming yet another
mega-project. The architect begins to restore the bath, the neighborhood
clambers onboard and everything is moving along truly swimmingly, including the
budding romance between the architect and the bath's caretakers son. His wife
drops in to serve him divorce papers - she's been sleeping with a friend for the
past several years and finally wanted out. The spurned developer has our hero
stabbed and he dies and the wife then has her own change of heart. This is a
movie about inner discovery - finding out who one really is inside, deep inside.
It's also about tying the past with the present and finding bridges across
cultures - the Italian and Turkish backgrounds and languages are interspersed
throughout this movie as is the exposition of Istanbul. And, despite our hero
dying, the movie is about optimism, about changes of heart, about finding
something more worthwhile to pursue than one's ladder-climbing dreams. It's
about keeping the culture flames alive and it's a wonderful and optimistic movie
overall. I was surprised that the message was one of overwhelming optimism and
hope because the film took such a left turn into darkness near the end. That
was intended, no doubt, as counterpoint and serves the purpose well. This is
also a wonderful film for anyone who's ever been interested in the Bosporus or
Istanbul. G-rated and homo-erotic in the same way that a middle-school romance
would be
hetero-erotic.Legend
of the Sacred Stone * * * *Magic and
puppetry - Taiwan director Chris Huang brings Pi-Li puppetry to life with this
96-minute tour-de-force legend. 17th Century Chinese war lords and evil are
depicted with subplots of valiant warriors and unrequited love all carried out
with puppets who perform triple-flip sword-wielding magic while battling evil
demons and seeking and finding the Stone of Heaven. Anyone who enjoyed the
Chinese magic elements of "Big Trouble in Little China" should see this and
anyone who enjoyed "The Dark Crystal" should see this. It's 96-minutes of
action - especially unbelievable since it's performed with puppets and very
little CGI and a lot of good old-fashioned cell animation for the flying swords
and lightning bolts and demonic devices protecting the stone. The music
oscillates between classic Chinese lute and ballad and modern hard acid rock as
would be appropriate for the inner sanctum talks of finding the stone and the
action battles with the demons. There's betrayal, several double and triple
crosses, and finally an ending which puts the evil to rest and restores balance
with the world. The dialog (subtitled) is funny in the way it ties the ancient
Chinese legend together with the modern world in a completely off-the-wall
manner (non-sequiturs fly nearly as much as swords). If ever there was a movie
to watch under the influence of experience-altering substances, this would be
that movie. Even straight as a nail, this movie was astounding, not just for
the level of action from the puppets but for the level of complexity of the
plot. Makes Shogun seem like a simple boy-meets-girl story. Oh, and the colors
and level of detail of the puppets is its own art form - the warriors are
outfitted with the most exquisite layers of robes with hair and hair fixtures
fit for the finest China Doll and the sets are to sets as Bonsai is to a forest,
replete with miniature hanging paper lantern, miniature paper vessels, and
miniature houses with waterfalls flowing over them. An absolute visual
delight.And now on to other things -
in this case debauchery and decadence Seattle style. Walking a great length on
Pine Street, as I've been wont to, the past several nights, up from First Avenue
toward the Egyptian Theater at Pine and Broadway, deep into Capitol Hill, I've
had occasion to check out the various nightlife venues here. The lower part of
Pine, from say Fourth Avenue up to Seventh, is fancy-date turf. There are a
number of really nice restaurants and upper-crust hotel bars along this stretch
and on the various cross streets. The crowd here comes and goes and is often
limousine-driven - as it is along First from Pike Place down to the Harbor Steps
at University Street. From north of the freeway, Pine turns into 18th or 19th
Street (in DC) with club after club, large crowds gathered on the sidewalk
spilling onto the curb, and noise and music and smoke from cigarettes wafting in
a cloud up and down the dozen blocks along this stretch. This crowd is younger,
between - say - 21 and 30, and seem generally happy, lively, not necessarily
bombed on booze (but frequently appearing to be dazed on dope) and includes lots
of hetero and GLBT couples and tons of agglomerations of singles out for the
night just wandering from club to club. This stretch of Pine, and Broadway as
well, have very-late-hour coffee houses still serving mochas, lattes and drips
and still filled with couples or groups actively engaged in discourse and an
equal number of singles actively engaged in either a book or a computer (yes,
lots of glow-in-the-dark Apple logos shining out
windows).I haven't checked out the
U-District, Fremont or Ballard Avenue night scene, but expect them to be
different in their own right from Pine, upper First (Pike Place) and Lower First
(Pioneer Square). I've walked down First from Pike Place to Jackson (Pioneer
Square) so many times I believe I know every address and store along both sides
by heart and their hours. Once one hits Yesler Way, the scene invariably
changes to one of crowds on the sidewalk, lining up to get into the bars with
bands or live shows and the roudy factor goes up at least an order of magnitude.
The Seattle Police hang out in Pioneer Square - in their squad cars parked on
the cross streets to First Avenue, on foot, and walking or riding their
bicycles. The Seattle Police do not hang out on Pine Street between the freeway
and Broadway. I have seen only three SPD cars making cursory drive-by's in the
Capitol Hill parts of Pine Street in the past few weeks. By contrast, nearly
any night of the week, but especially Friday and Saturday nights. in the Pioneer
Square steretch of First Avenue there is probably an entire squad of SPD foot
soldiers deployed, with at least a third of them engaged in either some form of
interlocution or actually writing tickets or performing "cleaning" operations
(breaking up crowds, forcing cars to quit stalling around, actually giving a
breath-a-lizer test to someone).Not
surprising. The Pioneer Square First Avenue night scene is one of older dudes
and their ladies (or not) and groups of women out doing their own cruising.
This crowd scene seems to be the 30-to-40 group and if younger is probably
military from one of the many bases around Puget Sound. This crowd scene also
has a high ratio of street people intermingling with the partygoers and a much
higher belligerence factor with a much higher proportion of the general crowd
showing signs of over-inebriation - weaving, loud-talking, random stuporness,
and the like. The music coming out of the bars and clubs along lower First is
more hard-driving rock with some tinges of country. Actually, just east of
First on Occidental and Second are some jazz clubs, but that street scene is
very uncrowded and muted with only the presence of the street people giving it a
"leary" look despite the very dark and 1920's streetscape which that part of
town exudes. The Capitol Hill Pine Street music scene seems much more
alternative and world rock and hypno/techno than the banging, driving rock of
lower First.There are definitely lots
of street people out on both Pine and First after 9:00 pm. The Capitol Hill
contingent seems to be more generally clever, trying to get what they want
through subtle solicitation or meek begging whereas the Pioneer Square
contingent seems at home being "in your face" and obnoxious, apparently trying
to intimidate that quarter out of your pocket or that cigarette out of your
pack. Mind you, I've done no real survey, but having spent now about a month in
the Capitol Hill Pine Street corridor, downtown, and nearly nine months crawling
First Avenue, these are my reasonable and assessed observations. Neither
location makes me feel uncomfortable, but then I used to bike around the Scott
Circle/Logan Circle, Shaw, and east Capitol Hill areas of DC after 9:00 pm, and,
those are the known heroin and crack districts in our Nation's Capitol. So,
it's entirely possible that what doesn't make me uncomfortable would make nine
out of ten others uncomfortable. I won't say Seattle's benign, but it's at
least two orders of magnitude less threatening to the ordinary person than a lot
of near downtown areas in the District are. But then again, it's the East Coast
mega cities where we have the biggest problems with drug-induced and
drug-dealing crime as a country. LA's probably approaching that status, but
Seattle certainly is not.So, yeah, I
feel quite comfortable and at home here after dark and in a variety of locales.
Which brings up another new discovery - the late-night bus service for Seattle.
Except for the Capitol Hill-Rainier Valley line (#7), the after-hours bus runs
for a bunch of regular lines have a special 80-series number assigned to them
and they start and wind their way through downtown on streets which are
different from the lines they are the late-night version of. All the late night
buses keep the same schedule, they begin their first run at 2:15 am and have a
second run at 3:30 am and then they are done. They are the 81 - West Queen
Anne, Ballard, and northwest city replacing the 15 and 18; the 82 - East and
North Queen Anne, Fremont, Greenwood, Greenlake, and Wallingford replacing the 5
and 26; the 83 - Eastlake, Montlake, U-District, and Ravenna replacing any
number of 70-series buses; the 84 - Madison, Madison Park, and Madrona replacing
the 2,3,4 and 11 and 12; and the 85 - SODO, West Seattle including Admiral,
Alaska and Morgan Junctions, Westwood and Delridge areas replacing the 20, 21,
22, 54, 55 and 56.All these buses
begin their run at the Rainier Square bus stop along either Fourth Avenue south
of Union or along Union west of Fourth Avenue. At 2:15 am there's a large crowd
hanging around that corner, talking, waiting, or trying to stay awake or
upright. All the buses start to arrive about 2:05 am and by 2:15 there's a
string of six buses all lined up and ready to go. Both Metro King County
(transit agency) and SPD have cars which drop by and park at about that time and
the officers walk from bus to bus and have a chat with each driver and have them
fill out some kind of form (incident reports?, known events cropping up in their
general bus run? bad guys on the loose and likely to hit them?) and at about
2:18 am they all start their run. Nearly all of them include some form of
end-of-line loop to cover the various other bus runs they're standing in for,
and, the 3:30 am run has the bus going in the reverse direction for the
end-of-the-line loop - giving everyone at least equal chance at not being the
last one deposited on their way home, I guess. The lines themselves and the
end-of-line loops cover pretty much all the populated areas of the city with
most dense to semi-dense neighborhoods no more than a mile from any section of a
given line. The only exceptions are Magnolia and Alki Beach - there's no late
night service for either. But, given the price of houses in these areas and the
general demographics of who live in both these trés tony sections of town,
Metro KC probably correctly figured that no late night bus run for Alki or
Magnolia would be a no-brainer because everyone would be driving their Beamer or
Mercedes home anyway.I've taken the 85
twice now, both trips a trip-and-a-half. The first one was filled to capacity
with late-shift workers from downtown, party-goers from Capitol Hill who lived
in West Seattle (probably with their parents), and the clean-up crew from Safeco
Field who just about manage to clean up after a late night game by the time the
bus gets to the stadium (2:30 am). That bus also smelled of day-long body odor,
the sweet smell of a diabetic (drunks well into their second hour of recovery
would be my guess), and a lot of bad cologne. That driver also made a loop
around West Seattle in the Admiral District because one old codger fell asleep
and the driver was too kind in driving a mile back to drop him off at the stop
he slept through, much to the grumbling of the folks who were trying to get home
to the White Center or Delridge areas (last part of the line on that trip). The
driver kept saying he was being kind and considerate and hoped the passengers
would understand. The next 85 I took
was a few days later and was less filled but had a driver who performed no fewer
special tricks - meandering all around the downtown space to drop a few folks
off closer to where they wanted to get to than the bus route official stops
allowed, and, then made up the time by zooming across the bridge to West
Seattle, and, then did the same thing, dropping off folks at non-regular
locations because that's where they really wanted to be let off. He even picked
up some folks downtown who didn't have the right change and passed them through
anyway - free ride.I'd heard that the
later-night Metro drivers were like this - considerate, breaking official policy
or rules, or otherwise being unduly kind and generous to their passengers. I
never experienced this level of courtesy or kindness in my 23 years of taking
Metrobus in the District, although to be totally honest, the bus drivers were
less surly than the subway drivers and kiosk attendants. Or maybe the East just
has a higher proportion of true assholes than does the west. I still think the
scenery and weather out here has a way of knocking that kind of crap out of
people and they actually become nicer humans living out here. The East is much
harsher in so many ways - way more overcrowded, way less pleasant in its weather
and general surroundings, way more of an undercurrent of crime and violence, so
perhaps the transit workers back East become just like the cops and actually
hate other humans just because they never know when one of them will turn out to
be a really bad guy. What a shame we've got a country like this. This is such
a much more pleasant area to live and work and travel about in than the East.
And, it's the same species in both places, so the environment must play a huge
factor in turning Easterners into the more-often-than-not surly creatures they
are. We need to work on correcting this as a society - really, we
do.And, now the final recounting. On
one of the most perfect days we've had yet I set out in the morning to bike
across the bridge, along the waterfront downtown and up through the new bike
trail along Elliott Bay and through Interbay to the general Lake Union area. By
the time I got past the railroad yards in Interbay, it dawned on me that I was
close enough to Fisherman's Terminal to go explore that area and did. Commodore
Way follows the general shoreline on the south side of that section of Salmon
Bay up to the Hiram Chittendem Locks. Commodore Way is a most fascinating
street since it is the location of the outfitters and riggers and shipbuilders
who support the fishing and other fleets which are based at the terminal and
elsewhere along Lake Union. On the Ballard side it's Shilshoal Avenue.
Drydocks where hulls are being welded are located two blocks from the
waterfront, as are radar instrument repair shops and flash-freeze plants for
fish caught and just a huge variety of other types of factories, support
facilities and shops and stores that one doesn't find in just any town. As
Spock would likely say, "fascinating." By the time I was done meandering my
bike along the several streets which follow Commodore Way and which constitutes
to my thinking a navigation-shipbuilding-fishing industrial area, I next
realized that I was just a few more bike minutes from the locks and proceeded
straightaway toward them. I spent about an hour, walking my bike since that's
the law within the locks area, walking across the locks, across the spillway,
watching the boats come and go and the locks fill up and empty.
The locks protect the fresh water of
Lake Washington from the salt water of Puget Sound. The greatest height between
the two is 25 feet at lakeside Spring and soundside low tide, and the least
height distance between them is at lakeside Fall and soundside wind-pushed high
tide when it's only 6 feet. The locks are gravity-driven, which is to say the
water fills always from the fresh-water side and empties to the saltwater side
and since the lakeside is always higher, there's no machinery other than valves
to cause the water to flow into the locks and they empty naturally through a
different set of valves. There are fish ladders also because salmon spawn in
the fresh waters of Lake Washington and the various inlets and bays between the
locks and the lake - including Lake Union in the middle. The locks are set in a
splendid wooded area - wooded on the Ballard north side, and wooded on the
Magnolia south side. The Burlington Northern-Sante Fe (BNSF) mainline runs
along Commodore Way and crosses the Ship Canal just west of the locks on a steel
truss rocker drawbridge. I thought long and hard about just walking my bike
across to Ballard and taking Market Street to Leary Way and coming back home
that way but was already beginning to feel the effects of the 14-mile-long trip
it had been to get me here so just turned around and went back to West Seattle
the same way I came.That was a
27.5-mile bike trip (I've now got an odometer, speedometer, timer on my bike
courtesy of a Christmas present from Leif). By the time I got home I was
exhausted and low on blood sugar. Rick and Joe were still working on the house,
actually cleaning up to get ready to head out for the day - it was nearly 4:00
pm. I must have made some uncomplimentary comment about yard waste or scraps or
something because Joe remarked that I probably needed some grape juice or apple
or banana and that I shouldn't talk to them until my blood sugar was restored.
He then said that it was usual for them to notice a shortness of courtesy from
their fellow workers or boss when their fellow workers or boss had been working
long and hard and had depleted their blood sugar level. I thought about this
and realized that he was absolutely correct, I had eaten nothing since breakfast
and was running on impulse power in addition to being somewhat bushed from the
hills - my front thigh leg muscles were not cramping but they might as well have
been. I went and got a glass of grape juice and felt much better. Good lesson!
Of course, I had taken my camera and got a bunch of great shots of the locks and
of various places along the bike trail. It really was a gorgeous day, temps
were in the low 70's with a slight breeze and the sky was humidity free and blue
with white puffy clouds - perfect for a long ride, perfect for getting good
photos and panoramas. And, as a final
offering, this entry's
Overheard...Standing
in line at the Egyptian on the Pine Street side just half-a-block west of
Broadway there were three Gen-X folks - two guys, a 5-foot-5 Asian-American, a
6-foot Anglo-Saxon-American, and one gal, a 5-foot-8 Scandinavian-American.
They were chit-chatting back and forth talking about mutual friends, how each
perceived the other, whether or not a particular person not there was "right"
for the Anglo-Saxon. Along comes a 5-foot-9 African American with a Jamaican
accent who asks the Asian-American if he has a smoke, to which the
Asian-American pulls out his pack of cigarettes and offers the African-American
one. The African-American then asks if the Asian-American has a light, to which
the Anglo-Saxon-American says "A Cigarette AND A Light!" The Asian-American
lights the African-American's cigarette and the African-American then says he
has a joke to tell the Anglo-Saxon-American.
We all perk up and
listen to the African-American as he recounts the following tale: "There was a
great secret of life which the Gods wanted to hide from the humans. The First
God said 'we'll hide it in the highest mountain, the humans will never find it
there.' The Second God said 'we'll hide it in the deepest ocean, the humans
will never find it there.' The Third God said 'we'll hide it in the deepest and
darkest forest, the humans will never find it there.' The Fourth God said
'well, they've climbed Everest, submerged to the deepest depths of the oceans,
and explored both the Congo and Amazon rain forests, so all your hiding places
won't work. However, if we hide it inside man himself, he'll never find it,
because humans never look
within.'"After that
the African-American walked west along Pine and the Anglo-Saxon-American said
"I've just been dissed by a street beggar," and spent the remaining time before
the line moved obsessed with the notion that he had been taken intellectually by
this "beggar." I saw him after the movie let out and asked what he thought of
the flick (which was Haute Tension), and he said that he had fallen asleep and
that one could "sleep through really good
movies."Posted below are some photos
of the Hiram Chittenden Locks and additional shots I had taken during the
Folklife Festival as I walked around town getting there and back, some shots
taken on the bike ride to the Locks, and some new shots showing off the current
state-of-construction of the house, and, a set of comparison photos showing the
amazing difference a thin layer of paint makes in a
space.Chas Panorama
of the locks and spillway standing on the middle pier of the smaller of the two
locks. On either side are the garden-like banks
ofthis area of the Ship Canal. On the left
is the Ballard side and on the right the Magnolia side, this view is looking
east towards Lake Union.The spillway and
fish ladder are the area to the right of center, the smaller lock itself is
barely visible below the walkway coming off to the
left. Another
panorama, this time standing in front of the walkway in the middle of the
spillway. The Ship Canal and locks are right of center,
withthe railroad bridge visible in the
distance across the Canal. Underneath the arch in the middle is the opening to
Salmon Bay and the rest ofLake Union and
Lake Washington beyond that. This view is looking East, the walkway in front of
the spillway is visible on the left and right
toeither side of the opening
arch. This
is a panorama standing at the top of the fish ladder on the Magnolia side of the
locks. The spillway waters can be seen on the
left,Ballard, side and the railroad bridge
can be seen in its lifted position on the right above the Ship Canal. The
wooded glen area in themiddle is the
northern portion of what becomes Discovery Park at the north and eastern
sections of Magnolia Hill. The Sound is
justbeyond the railroad bridge, about
another half-mile down the
Canal. Panorama
taken from the Pier 63 public space in front of Belltown with Elliott Bay
surrounding this section of the pier. Pier 63 is a
city-ownedgathering spot for festivals, food
and culture and music. It was formerly the location of the now defunct Seattle
Book Fair, which, when heldhere, was well
attended and free. Subsequent fairs were located in a variety of
lesser-easy-to-get-to venues throughout the city
andattendance suffered to the point where
the fair began to charge for admission, at which point its attendance
nose-dived, resulting inits now defunct
status. Just left of center is one of the cruise ships at dock. The city has
two separate cruise ship terminals, this
onenear downtown and two additional slips in
the harbor area just south of the Ferry
Docks. A
partial panorama taken also from Pier 63 showing the downtown skyline and
adjacent restaurant and ferry piers closer up.
TheAlaska Way Viaduct can be seen atop its
concrete abutments just ahead - dead center. There is a continuing discussion
of whetherto replace the Viaduct and if so
whether to put it underground, giving the waterfront much better access to the
downtown city
streets. Another
panorama view from Pier 63, this one centering on the outstanding views of West
Seattle (dead ahead, across the water) and
Elliott Bay. The hoists and cranes of the
harbor are visible just left of center and right of most of downtown. Belltown
and the cruise shipare on the right. The
interesting thing about taking VR images is that they can later be manipulated
to show as a flat panorama andany particular
point of interest in the 360-degree space can be centered in the flat panorama -
contrast this one with the image two above -
they are the same VR but treated as different flat
panoramas. A
series of close-up shots of the lifesaver facility on Pier 63 with the
Washington Mutual headquarters building looming
behind.The colors of the lifesaver and WAMU
(WAshingtonMUtual) building were such that this image literally cried out for
Photoshoptreatment - in this instance taken
as a series of R(ed)G(reen)B(lue)-C(yan)M(agenta)Y(ellow)
frames. End-of-the-line
station on the Waterfront Streetcar with the cruise ship terminal on the right,
the streetcar station in the center, and
thestreetcar tracks with Belltown behind on
the left. Elliott Bay can be seen glistening in the distance past the parked
cars on the
right. This
is the location along Western Avenue where the Seattle Art Museum (SAM) will
build its Olympic Sculpture Park, tying this section
ofBelltown to the waterfront by creating a
series of cascading garden plateaus over the street and adjacent railroad
tracks. This new SAMpark is scheduled to be
completed in 2007, essentially the same date as the Light Rail and Monorail are
scheduled to open their first
legs.Presently, this section of Belltown and
the waterfront are separated by railroad tracks, making it impossible to
actually get to the water's edge from this
mile-long stretch of city
street.. Intersection
of Queen Anne Avenue and Mercer Street, in the heart of Lower Queen Anne (also
sometimes referred to as "Uptown").
MercerStreet is on the left with Queen Anne
Avenue on the right. This view is looking directly west. This area of town is
just west of the SeattleCenter and a few
blocks from the
waterfront. This
is the corner of Harrison Street with Elliiott Avenue, just down the hill from
the previous view. This is the waterside area of Queen
Anneand Elliott Avenue is a major
thoroughfare for getting from north of downtown (Ballard, Interbay) to the Queen
Anne and downtown areas.The water is just
behind the buildings in the center. Running behind these buildings are
Burlington Northern-Sante Fe Railroad's
mainPuget Sound line as well as the commuter
line for Sound
Transit. This
is further south along Elliott Avenue, showing the development which is
occurring in this part of town. Western Avenue begins
rightpast the center of this view and
continues south towards Pike Place Market. Elliott Avenue turns into Aurora
Avenue a little further southof here and
continues through town along the watefront. The Space Needle is visible just to
the right of center. This view is looking
East,with the waterfront on the side with
the sidewalk running off in the left and right
areas. This
is the view from a plaza between two office buildings (one being the Seattle
Post-Intelligencer's offices) along Elliott Avenue. This
alsoshows how the railroad tracks separate
this area of town from a direct waterfront connection. On the other side of the
tracks is the newElliott Bay Park trails
established by the Port of Seattle. Across Elliott Bay is West
Seattle. This
is the Bell Street Pier, home to one of the two cruise ship terminals along the
Seattle waterfront. The otherterminal is
further south along Elliott Bay in the harbor area. This stretch of waterfront
begins the more touristysections with the
cruise terminal and the end-of-line Waterfront Streetcar terminal here and the
restaurants andknick-knack shops, aquarium,
and assorted other attractions along the street from here
south. Looking
south (left) and north (right) from the overpass connecting Nordstrom's flagship
store downtown to Pacific Place. That's
Sixth Avenue below, and as the glistening street attests, it was raining
slightly outside. I washere because one of
the venues for the Seattle International Film Festival is in one of Pacific
Place's
cinemas. A
series of photos showing the Steinway piano designed and decorated by Chihuly
the artist. The top is glass andthe keys
are plastic (no more ivory piano keys allowed). This was in the window at the
intersection of 4th Avenueand Stewart - a
downtown Steinway
dealer. A
pair of grazing cherry pickers on Battery Street, parked for the weekend. I was
coming back along 4th Avenue fromSeattle
Center at the end of the day Sunday, second-to-last day of the Folklife
Festival, and found this amusing
scene.Fourth Avenue is on the right and
Fifth Avenue was further along on the
left. This
is the grain terminal area of Elliott Bay and this is the fishing pier at
Elliott Bay Park, a recently developed
waterside park which connects downtown with Interbay by
meansof pedestrian and bike trails. The
Port of Seattle has been doing a lot of park
developmentin the past few years and this is
one of their newest and finest efforts. This view is
looking directly south toward downtown and
across Elliott
Bay. This
is a 180-degree panorama of the area shown above and gives a better impression
of how the walkway and bike path
meanderalong the Elliott Bay waterfront.
That's West Seattle just right of center with Alki Beach the lower, flatland,
section sticking out into the
bay. Railroad
car graffiti on the tracks in the Interbay railroad yards, through which the
Port ofSeattle has developed a thin section
as a bike trail through the yards. This is a great
newbike trail since it connects the Elliott
Bay side of the city with the Salmon Bay
section.Previously, a cyclist had to go
along Elliott Avenue and Leary Way - very, very busy
streets,to get between the two areas.
Although the trail passes through this industrial railroad
zoneat least it's a protected and set-aside
bike trail with only pedestrians - no cars. The
railroadyards always offer something
interesting to look at, either like this graffiti or what
thecars are carrying - on one past bike trip
I saw two Boeing 737 fuselages being
cartedatop two oversize
flatcars. Heading
back home after my bike excursion to Salmon Bay, I passed this Alaska Airlines
billboard on EastMarginal Way. The sign was
advertising Alaska Airlines' new, daily, service to Chicago - the Windy
City. View
of the house north side showing recent additions of siding and
trim. View
from slightly further away showing off the lines of the house as
seenby
neighbors. This
is a 120-degree panorama along Monroe Street showing how the house fits in with
the rest of the street. Puget Sound is in
the distance, at the end of the street. That's my red Volvo parked in front of
the
driveway. Joe
Allper, intellect, carpenter, student of history, concert-goer, Fremont
resident. He's shown here working and then
hamming. Previously-seen
view of Dining Room - Kitchen area with new door and stairway in unpainted mode.
Contrast with image below after
painting. This
is the same view as above (with slightly wider view) showing what a difference a
coat of paint can
make. View
of new living room alcove in its unfinished and unpainted state. Contrast with
view below after coat of
paint. Same
view as above but with the colors matched. The flooring still needs to be
finished and the trim work hasn't
yetoccurred. But the rooms now tie together
very nicely. Great new set of windows in the alcove,
too.That's it for
now...Ciao.
Posted: Mon - June 7, 2004 at 09:58 AM
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Published On: Jul 04, 2005 05:41 PM
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