Sun - May 25, 2003Sunday, May 25, 2003 (Boeing 737, Khartoum International Airport - Sudan)Our man Henry awaits us again. Killing time with
a killer. Passing back and forth through passport control. Touching down in a
new country is all the excuse needed to add another one to the list. My god,
what hit us! Nothing could have prepared us for this. Egyptians are just as warm
and friendly too.
Posted at 08:23 AM Read More Sat - May 24, 2003Saturday, May 24, 2003 (Nairobi - Kenya)Taking in Nairobi since we are here anyway.
Making friends with the taxi drivers is always a good idea. Is there anything
not yet broken in this vehicle? Knocking off the chores one by one. Everyone is
your
friend here but business is business and the
gloves are off. Never give in! I am my own chief negotiator. The rush is on to
get rid of this stuff we just bought. Sandy's beady eyes are on the
beads.
Posted at 08:22 AM Read More Fri - May 23, 2003Friday, May 23, 2003 (Nairobi - Kenya)The bus to Nairobi and the best border crossing
yet. A quick flight to Cairo was not looking promising.
Posted at 08:21 AM Read More Thu - May 22, 2003Thursday, May 22, 2003 (Arusha - Tanzania)Could it have been any better? Timing really is
everything and sometimes you just get lucky. The greediest beak versus the most
powerful jaw. Just how many flat tires can you get in one day? Settling up with
the fish.
Posted at 08:21 AM Read More Wed - May 21, 2003Wednesday, May 21, 2003 (Serengeti [Seronera Lodge] - Tanzania)Spotted dreams. Could we really get lucky today?
What have we seen so far? Basking in the glow of our own successes now. A
presentation that brings it all home floods us with emotion. Is it coming to an
end already?
Posted at 08:20 AM Read More Tue - May 20, 2003Tuesday, May 20, 2003 (Serengeti [Seronera Lodge] - Tanzania)Determined to find him his time. A sniffle is
sometimes more than it seems. A good guide, but is he good enough? Copulating
cats. Surely that's a sight worth doubling back for. I wish this migration would
get out of the bloody way. Death is soon cleaned up in this efficient ecosystem.
Look at what they are looking at. Can't we get any closer than
this?
Posted at 08:19 AM Read More Tuesday, May 20, 2003 (Serengeti [Seronera Lodge] - Tanzania)Did a huge rock hit the earth? Easy to get in,
not so easy to get out. Deceptive distances. Driving around in awe. One more
beast remains elusive - for us at least. Exchanging anecdotes.
Posted at 08:18 AM Read More Sun - May 18, 2003Sunday, May 18, 2003 (Ngorongoro Crater [Hati Lodge] - Tanzania)What we came here to see -
pride
doesn't do it justice. Some flies are more persistent that others. Eating
separately. Driver to driver and tourist to tourist. Game for more game? In
competition with the Japanese TV. To see, one has only to open their eyes. These
cats were worth another look. Onwards and upwards to the rim of the crater. An
unlikely chief and an unlikely encounter leaves us richer. Just how many photos
can you take in a day?
Posted at 08:18 AM Read More Sat - May 17, 2003Saturday, May 17, 2003 (Serengeti [Seronera Lodge] - Tanzania)Really ramping up the camera usage now. Look
up to
see the Lions. Glad we are in a sturdy vehicle. All stop for the Elephant
crossing. Distant rains. This bird is not having my lunch. Here pussy
pussy.
Posted at 08:17 AM Read More Fri - May 16, 2003Friday, May 16, 2003 (Serengeti [Seronera Lodge] - Tanzania)And I thought sleeping in a tent was comfortable.
Somewhere between asleep and awake. Take us away from all this please. This is
Massai country. So this is where they go when they aren't delivering babies.
Migrating through the migration. No tents for us here.
Posted at 08:16 AM Read More Thu - May 15, 2003Thursday, May 15, 2003 (Arusha - Tanzania)Why are we still rushing when we are still on
holiday? Deep into black
Africa now. Thanks to the drivers. And now the
isolation kicks in. Learning how to manage by being thrown into the deep end.
What? Do they sell curios here too? A bus depot such that we've never seen
before. And just
how
many people can you get into this vehicle? In search of fish.
Posted at 08:16 AM Read More Wed - May 14, 2003Wednesday, May 14, 2003 (Arusha - Tanzania)And the marathon is over. Upside-down trees
everywhere. Who is the X man? Trying to stand up on our own two feet. Currency
conversions. Getting ready for the next safari adventure.
Posted at 08:15 AM Read More Tue - May 13, 2003Tuesday, May 13, 2003 (Just past the border crossing - Tanzania)How much does it cost to cross a border anyway?
Wiping out the last of our funds - and battery juice. Was travelling by truck
the cheaper option after all? Another nonescript campsite, this time somewhere
in the middle of Tanzania. It's tiring but still pretty.
Posted at 08:15 AM Read More Tuesday, May 13, 2003 (Border crossing – Zambia/Tanzania)Too late, border closed. A late(?) start to the
day. Those bloody corrupt guards and their check-points.
Posted at 08:14 AM Read More Sun - May 11, 2003Sunday, May 11, 2003 (Somewhere near Lusaka - Zambia)Our only way out of the country. A shocking
surprise at the border. Another campsite in the middle of nowhere.
Posted at 08:13 AM Read More Sat - May 10, 2003Saturday, May 10, 2003 (Harare - Zimbabwe) Has it really been only two months so far?
Another break from the holiday. Are the best deals to be found here? A night out
at the movies, Zimbabwe style. Our chariot awaits after all.
Posted at 08:13 AM Read More Fri - May 9, 2003Friday, May 9, 2003 (Harare - Zimbabwe)Indecent exposure. We will be sad to say good-bye
to these people. The ups and downs of unpredictability. How on earth did we end
up here? Deciding where not to go is oh so difficult. A farewell to our South
Africa friends. Get my
stick
out of the plane please! Awaiting our free ride to Tanzania.
Posted at 08:12 AM Read More Thu - May 8, 2003Thursday, May 8, 2003 (Victoria Falls - Zimbabwe)So much time in just one place, we must like it
here. The back of an Elephant will leave lasting memories - and a crooked limp.
How to get into the falls for free. Oh OK then, just one more visit to the
markets. An unexpected flight.
Posted at 08:11 AM Read More Wed - May 7, 2003Wednesday, May 7, 2003 (Victoria Falls - Zimbabwe)And still it remains a challenge to travel
through Africa. A free ride through Zambia? A friend in need. Helicopters and
Elephants.
Posted at 08:11 AM Read More Tue - May 6, 2003Tuesday, May 6, 2003 (Victoria Falls - Zimbabwe)Ahhhh, a nice lay in again. Our new friend as
good as his word. Our other new friends as good as theirs. Getting desperately
low on cash with no option to obtain more. Perhaps just one more trip to the
markets? Cash accepted but the shirt off your back is also good. A direct
benefit to the locals.
Posted at 08:10 AM Read More Mon - May 5, 2003Monday, May 5, 2003 (Victoria Falls - Zimbabwe)This place is growing on us. Learning to live in
a physical structure again. Not just a taxi driver as it turned out. The warmth
and friendliness of the Zimbabwe people is not far beneath the surface. A tour
of Victoria Falls. How the locals live and purchasing directly from the
manufacture. The walking, talking, stick. So, how do you get several arms full
of curios back home? The effects of a dictatorial regime are evident in the
sorrow of these people.
Posted at 08:10 AM Read More Sun - May 4, 2003Sunday, May 4, 2003 (Victoria Falls - Zimbabwe)A sad farewell as the formalities are dealt with.
Things always seem to work out well in the end in Africa - but did I speak too
soon? Bumping into old friends.
Posted at 08:09 AM Read More Sunday, May 4, 2003 (Victoria Falls - Zimbabwe)What, no early start? The wildlife is fantastic
but somebody please
shoot
that bloody bird! The one border crossing
nobody
is looking forward to but should we be worried? Mayhem and bedlam don't begin to
describe it. Funny money. So much for planning, now we are in real trouble. A
surprise birthday present, but why jump off a perfectly decent bridge? Letting
our hair down and releasing some steam couldn't have come soon
enough.
Posted at 08:09 AM Read More Fri - May 2, 2003Friday, May 2, 2003 (Chobe National Park - Botswana)Turning a negative into a positive. A chilly
start to another game drive. The river runs through it. A little souvenir
reminder of the safari. The booze cruise. A final buffet.
Posted at 08:08 AM Read More Thu - May 1, 2003Thursday, May 1, 2003 (Chobe National Park - Botswana)Another national park again, but will Chobe be as
good as the others? Slowly reflecting on the safari tour. Personality conflicts
starting to surface. Trying to smuggle meat across the border is not always a
good idea. Sandy becomes a god-mother.
Posted at 08:07 AM Read More Wed - April 30, 2003Wednesday, April 30, 2003 (Maun - Botswana)A small town in Botswana. A long journey into the
bush, by truck, Mokorro and foot. People on the inside of the tent, but lots of
things that will kill and eat you on the outside of the tent. Animals rise
early, and so must we. Tales that will evoke nightmares even in the most
courageous. Walking through the bush is surprisingly exhausting. Narrowly
escaping with my life - and that's no tale! Animals from the air. We definitely
need a break now.
Posted at 08:06 AM Read More Sun - April 27, 2003Sunday, April 27, 2003 (Somewhere on the road to Maun - Botswana)Another country to add the the list as Namibia
becomes one of the surprise highlights with Botswana offering lots of promise.
Starting to understand Africa more and more. Some more planning ahead ... this
ever present necessity is never far away. Learning to live in close quarters
with strangers. The Okavango Delta awaits us. A reflection on how our gear is
holding up. There is nowhere that sand cannot, and indeed did not,
reach.
Posted at 08:06 AM Read More Sat - April 26, 2003Saturday, April 26, 2003 (Waterberg - Namibia)The body can only take so much before it switches
off. Is Etosha as good as Kruger? A Cheetah sanctuary that raises mixed emotions
and stimulates the ethical and moral debate. Scorpions in the water. We say
good-bye to half our number. A Leopard in the wild would really top the list at
this point. An strange encounter with an ancient people.
Posted at 08:05 AM Read More Thu - April 24, 2003Thursday, April 24, 2003 (Etosha National Park - Namibia)Exhaustion seems to have set in without telling
anyone. Amazing how quickly the mind automatically switches into game viewing
mode. And still the food gets better. A few hours of deserved rest. More animals
waiting to be
captured
on camera.
Posted at 08:04 AM Read More Wed - April 23, 2003Wednesday, April 23, 2003 (Etosha National Park - Namibia)Who said travelling through Africa would be easy?
Did he say another long
drive ahead of us? Etosha brings the chance to
compare yet more game viewing with Kruger. The food just keeps getting better.
Is that just
one
bird's nest? Dreaming of more game viewing.
Posted at 08:04 AM Read More Tue - April 22, 2003Tuesday, April 22, 2003 (Swakopmund - Namibia)How much adrenaline pumped fun can you possible
squeeze into a single day? Sand-boarding and quad-biking are man's best
inventions yet.
Posted at 08:03 AM Read More Mon - April 21, 2003Monday, April 21, 2003 (Swakopmund - Namibia)Half the day gone before sunrise. Finally churned
out a successful DVD burn. Back on the road before the temperature rose too
much. Off the the adrenaline capital of Namibia. Never pass up a good Internet
cafe.
Posted at 08:03 AM Read More Sun - April 20, 2003Sunday, April 20, 2003 (Sossusvlei - Namibia)How many photos can you take in a single day? Do
they understand that sleeping is supposed to last all through the night?! The
best sunrise we'll ever see was well worth the hell we had to go through to see
it. There are more living things in the desert than I ever imagined. In awe of
Bushman and his guided tour. So, what is a
vlei?
Another canyon serves as the backdrop for a sunset tipple atop the
truck.
Posted at 08:02 AM Read More Sat - April 19, 2003Saturday, April 19, 2003 (Sossusvlei - Namibia)Long drives and camp fires but I still get my
morning eggs after all. Yet another long haul trek through the vast expanses of
the Namibian desert and I'm no longer Sandy's favourite person. And they call
this a campsite? Dreams of a very tall dune. Full power to the batteries yet
again but my night under the stars will have to wait.
Posted at 08:02 AM Read More Fri - April 18, 2003Friday, April 18, 2003 (Fish River Canyon - Namibia)An early rise for a last South African sunrise
photo opportunity. Border formalities. Fish River Canyon was worth the drive
with spectacular views and a gorgeous sunset. Another wonderful meal cooked over
an open camp fire. Electricity here in the middle of the desert? An early start
seems to be the norm on this trip.
Posted at 08:01 AM Read More Thu - April 17, 2003Thursday, April 17, 2003 (Fiddler’s Creek – South Africa)One day down, just eighteen left to go ... but
we're having fun already. Drifting down the Orange River. Our rafting guide was
the only one to get stuck on the rocks. Amazing what can be cooked up on an open
fire. The laptop slideshow is sure to be a regular around the camp
fire.
Posted at 08:00 AM Read More Wed - April 16, 2003Wednesday, April 16, 2003 (Somewhere on the road – South Africa)Finally, the
journey
begins. A quick word from our guide and driver and we are off into the great
unknown. The food was cold at the end of the day but we were glad to have
arrived at our first destination.
Posted at 08:00 AM Read More Tue - April 15, 2003Tuesday, April 15, 2003 (Cape Town – South Africa)Can it get any more stressful than this? Where is
my career going? Is it even worth continuing with the trip ... without a laptop
power supply? The computer god and how I so wanted to kiss his feet. Slowly
working through the problems of the day. Meeting the other members of our safari
group.
Posted at 07:59 AM Read More Mon - April 14, 2003Monday, April 14, 2003 (Cape Town – South Africa)An absolute catastrophe! Another trip to the
doctor. Table Mountain in all its glory - and a nice sunset too. Finalising our
safari plans. More market stalls and curios. Still more to be done ... aren't we
supposed to be on holiday?
Posted at 07:58 AM Read More Monday, April 14, 2003 (Cape Town – South Africa)Time to speed things up. Penguins on the beach?
Cape Point, the Cape of Good Hope and the southern tip of Africa. Time to buy
some curios at last. As far South as we can go, time to head North again. So
many photos and the difficulty to choose between them.
Posted at 07:58 AM Read More Sat - April 12, 2003Saturday, April 12, 2003 (Cape Town – South Africa)Complaints from the camera - due to lack of use.
Reverting back to old habits. It's all the same but completely different. Thanks
goodness they are meat-eaters here. More arrangements for our
safari.
Posted at 07:57 AM Read More Fri - April 11, 2003Friday, April 11, 2003 (Cape Town – South Africa)The logistics of travelling with lots of cameras.
How to clean out the competition for bandwidth at an Internet cafe.
Coast-to-Coast. How to organise a safari through Africa and the merits of an
overland truck. How to keep the batteries charged when sleeping in a tent.
Money, money, money - but this is Africa and
nothing
is simple here. Can't beat a chicken in the microwave.
Posted at 07:57 AM Read More Thu - April 10, 2003Thursday, April 10, 2003 (Cape Town – South Africa)Caves, waterfalls and the middle of nowhere.
Discounts for travellers. Through the stunning views of the Black Mountain Pass
and into Cape Town. Looking for a room when you're cranky. Another great
backpackers' hangout.
Posted at 07:56 AM Read More Wed - April 9, 2003Wednesday, April 9, 2003 (Oudtshoorn – South Africa)Is there a pattern emerging here? Of doctors and
health insurance. Sticking to the backpackers' trail. The fastest land mammal on
earth - but also the most cuddliest when it's up close and personal. How NOT to
ride an Ostrich.
Posted at 07:54 AM Read More Tue - April 8, 2003Tuesday, April 8, 2003 (Knysna – South Africa)Meeting the
real
locals in the Knysna Township and seeing how they live definitely brings things
into focus. A Rastafarian and his Weed are never parted.
Posted at 07:53 AM Read More Mon - April 7, 2003Monday, April 7, 2003 (Knysna – South Africa)Never had so much fun before. Full steam ahead -
and luckily the whole carriage to ourselves ;-) A slow boat to the
heads
and back. Relaxing and catching up on some chores.
Posted at 07:53 AM Read More Sun - April 6, 2003Sunday, April 6, 2003 (Knysna – South Africa)So, it was a sheep in Wolf's clothing after all.
The
offer
of a nice meal was nothing of the kind! No money, no petrol and no idea where we
are are a problematic combination but things have a way of working out. Let's go
that
way.On the trail of a suspension bridge. More CDs in the post. Finally, we found
the backpackers' trail - and we won't be looking back. We deserve a nice meal in
a nice restaurant.
Posted at 07:52 AM Read More Sat - April 5, 2003Saturday, April 5, 2003 (Tsitsikamer – South Africa)Just passing through when there's nothing to see.
Full steam ahead to the garden route and the Tsitsikamer mountain range. Beware
of nice old ladies. A nice little self-catering cottage
seems
to be just what we need and when we need it. A nice offer of a meal - with
strings attached? The nice old lady still 'helping' us out?
Posted at 07:51 AM Read More Fri - April 4, 2003Friday, April 4, 2003 (Colesberg – South Africa)Exploring the provincial capital. Fortifications
and museums. It pays to ask twice. Internet euphoria. Stocking up on energy
before the next big push. Choosing the best budget options in town.
Posted at 07:51 AM Read More Thu - April 3, 2003Thursday, April 3, 2003 (Bloemfontein – South Africa)Fun on the fufi-slide. Good-bye to the
Drakensberg. The long drive ahead. Letting the guide book guide us. White Africa
- Black Africa.
Posted at 07:50 AM Read More Wed - April 2, 2003Wednesday, April 2, 2003 (White Mountain [Drakensberg] – South Africa)Our poor, aching feet. Primitive artwork. Scenery
second to none. Conquerers of the mountains. Meeting people from all over the
country. Extending our car rental agreement.
Posted at 07:50 AM Read More Tue - April 1, 2003Tuesday, April 1, 2003 (White Mountain [Drakensberg] – South Africa)A very strenuous climb, even if it was a slow and
steady pace. Views at the top were worth the effort. How not to die. Isn't
abseiling fun (mostly). Crowded around the laptop. Self catering versus eating
out.
Posted at 07:49 AM Read More Mon - March 31, 2003Monday, March 31, 2003 (White Mountain [Drakensberg] – South Africa)A late start to the day allows us to send home
some photos. North and into the mountain ranges of the Drakensberg. So many
things to buy, but so many logistical problems in doing so. Tourist information.
Our very own chalet somewhere in the mountains. Lighting up the night's
sky.
Posted at 07:48 AM Read More Sun - March 30, 2003Sunday, March 30, 2003 (Umhlanga [Durban] – South Africa)A day off from the holiday. Tracking our route
through South Africa. The ever present threat of Malaria and why we should be
taking medication. Sending updates to those back home and around the world. Our
very gracious hosts who have become our friends.
Posted at 07:48 AM Read More Sat - March 29, 2003Saturday, March 29, 2003 (Umhlanga [Durban] – South Africa)Is Durban really that violent? Sending things
home. A brief glimpse of developed life again. A dip in the pool. A look ahead
to the Drakensberg.
Posted at 07:47 AM Read More Fri - March 28, 2003Friday, March 28, 2003 (Umhlanga Rocks [Durban] – South Africa)Saying good-bye to Sodwana Bay. The long drive to
Durban. A
braai
with our new friends.
Posted at 07:47 AM Read More Thu - March 27, 2003Thursday, March 27, 2003 (Sodwana Bay – South Africa)Bringing our first diving adventure to a
conclusion. A tick in the tummy. War may be raging, but we are having fun.
Calling ahead to plan on seeing our next visitors. meeting new friends along the
way. You don't have to go far to see fish.
Posted at 07:46 AM Read More Wed - March 26, 2003Wednesday, March 26, 2003 (Sodwana Bay – South Africa)With a solution having been found for the nausea,
diving is very much on the cards again. Danger in the waters. Unrest? What
unrest? The secure felling of knowing that we are being watched over. The never
ending decision of where to go next.
Posted at 07:45 AM Read More Tue - March 25, 2003Tuesday, March 25, 2003 (Sodwana Bay – South Africa)A very bad start to our diving adventures as
nausea threatens to put an end to our diving plans. More people urge us to
submit our photos for the yearly jeep.
Posted at 07:45 AM Read More Mon - March 24, 2003Monday, March 24, 2003 (Sodwana Bay – South Africa)Farewell to Swaziland, hello to the coast.
Exploring our diving and accommodation options. A nice place to spend a few
days. Eating into our diving budget. Reviewing our diving knowledge. What, no
photos today?
Posted at 07:44 AM Read More Sun - March 23, 2003Sunday, March 23, 2003 (Tambuti - Swaziland)An early breakfast at the lodge. An unlikely
start to the game drive in search of the elusive Black Rhino. The Gypsy Rhino
Woman of Swaziland. A surreal lunch in the middle of the bush. And finally, the
showdown with the Black Rhino. An invasion of ants adds to the wildlife
theme.
Posted at 07:43 AM Read More Sat - March 22, 2003Saturday, March 22, 2003 (Tambuti - Swaziland)A detour to an alternative accommodation option.
Showing of our photos at a farewell do. looking forward to the Black
Rhino.
Posted at 07:42 AM Read More Saturday, March 22, 2003 (Mbabane - Swaziland)A surprisingly early start to the day. The
friendliness of the Swazi people. Lounging around the pool. Travelling is
tiresome but we are finally starting to relax. African time and no schedules. It
doesn't pay to believe the guidebook all the time. How is our gear handling the
conditions? Photos, photos and more photos. A dodgy moment with the
locals.
Posted at 07:41 AM Read More Fri - March 21, 2003Friday, March 21, 2003 (Mbabane - Swaziland)Last day in Kruger. An exciting encounter with a
Rhino and any other wonderful creatures of the park. Across the border and into
Swaziland. An experience with the
real
Africa. How to keep cool and carry a load. The hubbub of an African capital
city. An unlikely location for a KFC? A beautiful birthday view.
Posted at 07:40 AM Read More Thu - March 20, 2003Thursday, March 20, 2003 (Skakuza [Kruger National Park] – South Africa)More excitement on the game trail. Travelling
through the park. Where to go after Kruger.
Posted at 07:39 AM Read More Wed - March 19, 2003Wednesday, March 19, 2003 (Oliefants [Kruger National Park] – South Africa)A thoroughly exhausting day following the
animals. The truly rare sight that few will have seen before or ever
again.
Posted at 07:38 AM Read More Tue - March 18, 2003Tuesday, March 18, 2003 (Letaba [Kruger National Park] – South Africa)Full speed ahead on the safari trail. Problems
with the phone lines. A feeling of accomplishment. Anti-malarial regimen.
Looking ahead to some SCUBA diving. Sharing our cabin with the
wildlife.
Posted at 07:38 AM Read More Mon - March 17, 2003Monday, March 17, 2003 (Letaba [Kruger National Park] – South Africa)Goodbye to our friends in Kosmos. The long drive
towards Kruger National Park. The unexpected cost of driving in South Africa.
Being shaken down by a
friendly
policeman. Lunch with a stunning view. So many animals in such a short space of
time. Our first safari in the park.
Posted at 08:51 PM Read More Sun - March 16, 2003Sunday, March 16, 2003 (Hartbeespoort – South Africa)Still enjoying ourselves. A ride in the
chair-lift. A visit to a Cheetah breeding farm. A visit from friends from
above.
Posted at 08:51 PM Read More Sat - March 15, 2003Saturday, March 15, 2003 (Hartbeespoort – South Africa)Awakening in paradise. The cradle of humankind
safari. Planning our time in Africa.
Posted at 08:50 PM Read More Fri - March 14, 2003Friday, March 14, 2003 (Hartbeespoort – South Africa)Still can't believe we are really here. Couldn't
have asked for a better start to the trip. A quick tour around the local
vicinity of Kosmos. An opportunity for a nice meal. Making arrangements for
Kruger National Park.
Posted at 08:49 PM Read More Thu - March 13, 2003Thursday, March 13, 2003 (Kosmos in Hartbeespoort [near Pretoria] – South Africa)Day one of our great adventure and we have
finally arrived in Africa. Our gracious hosts welcome us into their home. Picked
up a rental car. So many things to buy.
Posted at 08:48 PM Read More |
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Published On: Sep 24, 2005 11:29 PM |
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